C. Fl. Coupe build

[Loring]

Alright ladies and gents, I've had a few boxes show up here and there, but the first major step has happened. My donor showed up, which means BUILD THREAD TIME!!

The main configuration will be some large wheels, something with some dish with a good engine build. 5-600ish whp. I'd eventually like to be able to swap suspension and wheels for various trims including drag or road racing. I'll use this post to keep a basic status and parts/cost total and if I'm not being too ambitious, a table of contents for posts in this thread I feel are noteworthy.

...More to come.

Stuff bought:

818C with black PC frame, dash, carpet, wipers and CF street spoiler
2006 Subaru WRX TR


Engine:
RJ Manufacturing closed deck block
supporting machine work for block and heads for 700WHP
CP Forged pistons 9:1 99.75mm
Manley Turbo Tuff rods
ACL race bearings
ARP head studs
Kelford 272 cams
Supertech valves
TGV deletes
Killer B Windage tray and oil pickup
STi Oil pan

Air/Fuel System:
2 - CNT 255lph e85 fuel pump
Ascension Engineering surge tank
FIC 2150cc injectors
AWIC

Turbo:
BoostLab custom billet 6262
-Dual ball bearing CHRA
-11 blade compressor wheel



Misc:
Quaife QDH3Y LSD
Competition Stage 2 Clutch
Competition 13lb Flywheel

Braum Elite-X seats

Suspension:
Adjustable rear trailing arms

[Loring]

Donor status:

It's a 2006 WRX. It was hit slightly in the front, enough to touch the motor. Not a big setback, as I'm planning on an engine build anyway. Can has a lot of cool parts on it, including a very large TMIC, and some COBB parts including a STS, turbo heat shield, and some perrin goodies like the radiator mount, belt cover, and UDP. I'm hoping the part out will cover most of the car cost ($2500). From the doors back, the body is damn good. It's got some really nice suspension parts, but the struts themselves are destroyed. I'll post more as I tear into it this weekend. Pics to come when I figure out the pic thingy.

[Mechie3]

I think I parted out about $3500+ from my 06 car.

[JeromeS13]

Donor status:

It's a 2006 WRX. It was hit slightly in the front, enough to touch the motor. Not a big setback, as I'm planning on an engine build anyway. Can has a lot of cool parts on it, including a very large TMIC, and some COBB parts including a STS, turbo heat shield, and some perrin goodies like the radiator mount, belt cover, and UDP. I'm hoping the part out will cover most of the car cost ($2500). Form the doors back, the body is damn good. It's got some really nice suspension parts, but the struts themselves are destroyed. I'll post more as I tear into it this weekend. Pics to come when I figure out the pic thingy.

A COBB short throw shifter will be useless on an 818, as you don't use the donor's shifting mechanism.

[Loring]

A COBB short throw shifter will be useless on an 818, as you don't use the donor's shifting mechanism.

Same goes for the TMIC and Invidia catback. All good for reselling and recouping the cost of the donor though, right?

[Loring]

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Testing?

Looks like the pictures were too big. Anyway, I'm sure most of you have seen this before. I just finished with it, and took the car to the scrapyard. One place wouldn't even take it with the title, the next place said "That's not a car, that's tin." He offered to de-title it, but I declined, of course. 900lbs, $32. Hah.

[carrera1984]

I'm running into this issue as well. Illinois needs to have the title to register it as a kit car but you need the title to get rid of the shell. Kind of a catch 22!

[Loring]

Turns out only one of the struts was destroyed and the strut cartridge is replaceable, which means the coilover and camber plate is still good. Those were $1400 when they were new. After my buddy helped me get rid of the shell, he decided that he wanted to pressure wash my garage to get ready for the kit arrival. Guy just got laid off from the railroad, so he was bored and I was buying lunch anyway, haha.

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[Loring]

I'm running into this issue as well. Illinois needs to have the title to register it as a kit car but you need the title to get rid of the shell. Kind of a catch 22!

I've read a few guys just cutting the shell up and scrapping it over time. The first scrapyard informed me that it was illegal, to which I held back a laugh.

From other Floridians registering the 818 and kit cars in general, they don't actually require the title, just proof of ownership. They issue a new title with a new VIN anyway.

I recall one 818 owner cutting his shell into pieces and leaving it out for the scrappers over a month or two period.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm running into this issue as well. Illinois needs to have the title to register it as a kit car but you need the title to get rid of the shell. Kind of a catch 22!

I ran into the same problem when I tried to scrap my last donor.
I called the Ohio state trooper office where the inspections are done. The Trooper that inspected my previous car told me to keep a good copy of the title before turning the real title over to the crusher.
Bob

[Loring]

Now that the shop area is mostly clean, let's see what's in this blue box...

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[Loring]

Just got a call from Stewart's driver. The car will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm taking note of longislandwrx's signature:

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[Hindsight]

Haha, I love it.... plenty of hydration for the day's build activities and a little celebration beer during the evenings when finished.

Lakeland eh? I used to go down there all the time to Wallaby Ranch (technically Davenport).

[Harley818]

Good luck.... now the fun starts.
Just keep at it and do a little as often as you can... it all adds up.
Most of us end up walking around looking at the car, trying to decide what to do next....do a little bit then repeat the next day.....
It went fast for me till I got to the body.... now there are alot of details still to contend with.'

[lance corsi]

Harley, I've got nearly 400 hours just in my body fitment. If you don't do any crazy mods, may take you only 300 hrs. It is probably the most confusing and crucial part to get right. The body is what most ppl see, so I feel it has to be right in order to represent FFR in the best possible light.

[adubbelde]

Just got a call from Stewart's driver. The car will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm taking note of longislandwrx's signature:

20160318_225510_resized_1.jpg

I like that fridge. Wher'd you get it and what's the brand/make?

[Loring]

Kenmore Coldspot. We got it from Sears. We picked it as a second fridge because of its ice producing capabilities, which is something that nobody considers when buying a fridge, haha.

[Loring]

So this happened today. Started raining shortly before he showed up, got even heavier as we started unloading the car, and then cleared up after he left. Just like Florida.

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No matter how many times you read that there are a lot of boxes, it still seems like a lot of boxes.

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I've got quite a bit of aluminum that isn't on the checklist. I'm guessing it's coupe specific. Some of it has numbers in sharpie, a few don't.

[Mitch Wright]

Congratulations, enjoy your build.

[Loring]

Thank you, sir.

Pulling a few parts out as I go, noticing some interesting things, things I would have done differently, etc. as I'm sure you all have as well.

Curious if these chopsticks will handle my power levels.

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[longislandwrx]

Same goes for the TMIC and Invidia catback. All good for reselling and recouping the cost of the donor though, right?

should be able to use the TMIC, you just need brackets to lower enough to clear the engine cover.

Just got a call from Stewart's driver. The car will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm taking note of longislandwrx's signature:

20160318_225510_resized_1.jpg

there's a solid start.

Kenmore Coldspot. We got it from Sears. We picked it as a second fridge because of its ice producing capabilities, which is something that nobody considers when buying a fridge, haha.

tell me about it, we ended up with a Frigidaire with an all internal icemaker (not in the door) because it had tremendous capacity, and speed!

Curious if these chopsticks will handle my power levels.

probably not. buy crappy tires.

[Loring]

should be able to use the TMIC, you just need brackets to lower enough to clear the engine cover.

Possibly. The TMIC is quite a bit bigger than the STi version, and with the coupe, I don't want to deal with the lack of airflow that i'll likely end up with. I think AWIC is the way to go, but I was looking at the ducting that they added into the top for rear airflow, and they put a good bit of thought into it.

However, on the list of things that they didn't put thought into:

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Am I a dummy or is that wrong?

probably not. buy crappy tires.

Haha. I can get a vanity place that says 'SPNMSTR' or 'SMKSHOW'.

[longislandwrx]

you have to take one apart and reassemble. the instructions are in the book somewhere. one/two of the threaded rods need to be shortened for final alignment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1458414245


grease fittings down.

[Loring]

Yep, I ended up flipping one over, no big deal there. I guess it's easier from a production standpoint to assemble them all the same. Guess I'll have to reconfigure the crossbars the other way. Thanks for pointing that out.

As far as the threaded rod shortening, do I remember someone saying that they fixed that issue and that it was only for earlier kits?

[longislandwrx]

I don't know how they'd fix it unless that a-arm is a new part number. my packaging is long gone so I cant tell you.

[Loring]

Also, FWIW, there are several photos in the manual showing the zerk fittings up. I'm not suggesting that the manual is 100% correct, but at least I see where my misunderstanding was.

[Aero STI]

Thank you, sir.

Pulling a few parts out as I go, noticing some interesting things, things I would have done differently, etc. as I'm sure you all have as well.

Curious if these chopsticks will handle my power levels.

20160319_184428_resized.jpg

I don't see your power goals. Those chopsticks held up to 530 WHP and 580 WTQ on my car. The 5 speed on the other hand...

I believe all broken axles so far were a result of R compounds and launching.

[longislandwrx]

with a good engine build. 5-600ish whp.

plus he mentioned drag racing.

[Loring]

I did. There will be many great launches and potentially some front wheels off the ground.

When considering the engine build, it appears that there isn't a great cost disparity for 500 and 600 WHP, and 6 to 700 WHP is about $1000.

I'm going to build with the provided axles and do some 'durability testing'. There's a good axle shop nearby, I can have them make something more beefy should the need arise.

[longislandwrx]

Not sure how you came up with that number but from owning other cars, I don't know if that's a realistic estimate.

The difference in the short block may be $1000, but just going to a twin disc clutch over a single will set you back another $1000, id2000s are not cheap, etc etc
Unless you are overbuilding your 500hp build and underbuilding your 700hp build.

Post your build spreadsheet and lets see what you had in mind for both. I don't doubt it can be done, but it's going to cost you.

[Aero STI]

Not sure how you came up with that number but from owning other cars, I don't know if that's a realistic estimate.

The difference in the short block may be $1000, but just going to a twin disc clutch over a single will set you back another $1000, id2000s are not cheap, etc etc
Unless you are overbuilding your 500hp build and underbuilding your 700hp build.

Post your build spreadsheet and lets see what you had in mind for both. I don't doubt it can be done, but it's going to cost you.

Thanks for pointing out his power goals.

I like it that others are aiming for ridiculous horsepower. I would also be interested to see the build list.

[Loring]

Not sure how you came up with that number but from owning other cars, I don't know if that's a realistic estimate.

The difference in the short block may be $1000, but just going to a twin disc clutch over a single will set you back another $1000, id2000s are not cheap, etc etc
Unless you are overbuilding your 500hp build and underbuilding your 700hp build.

Post your build spreadsheet and lets see what you had in mind for both. I don't doubt it can be done, but it's going to cost you.

Sorry, let me clarify. The $$$ to get to 600WHP plus $1000 will get me 700WHP. I'll likely end up with $7-8k just in the engine. With injectors, clutch, turbo, and all the other ancillary stuff, I'd be lucky to come in under 10k just for the powerplant.

Quaife, drag radials, tune, all that driveline stuff adds up fast.

There's a really good Subaru shop in Orlando, so they seem to be interested in tuning and providing all the internals.

[Hindsight]

I'm sure you already know this but to hit those big numbers, you are going to need a very large turbo that won't spool up until very high RPMs. A 700WHP turbo is going to be one that will probably spool between 5 and 6k RPMs.

[Loring]

Yep, I'm hoping the lack of weight will allow for the car to get into boost quickly. If not, there's always nitrous.

[metalmaker12]

Yep, I'm hoping the lack of weight will allow for the car to get into boost quickly. If not, there's always nitrous.

Lmao, good luck being able to drive a 700whp 818. I can't even fully handle it with 300whp, I would say 400whp would be the max in this car unless your trying to kill yourself. My ride is a solid low 11 sec car/ great track machine and that's with the tires spinning and some oh **** moments. If your trying to build an 818 drag car than that's different but high hp
In one of these is completely useless power, plus that power in an EJ is a time bomb.

Just giving you some wisdom, I admire your ideas, It's that I have been part of building subies for 15 years, and I know the 818 very well building my own and helping with about 5 others.

If you need advice I have many answers and a wealth of subie pros who are my friends to help out.

Good luck in your quest to reach that number. It's going to be way more than 10k though

[Hindsight]

My plan is to get the car "done" and driving, stock in terms of power modifications but with the addition of some parts that will make future upgrades easier (like upgrading the whole fuel system, installing a great AWIC setup, limited slip diff, etc). With the body on, interior mostly done, and after having it licensed, I will drive it for a few months with the Cobb stage 2 tune and see what I think. If I'm thirsting for more power, I'll upgrade. But I can say with just the 2nd and 3rd gear pulls I did the other day before starting on the body, it's scary fast with just a stage 2 tune in it. The car goes faster than you can think. Also, being very low to the ground and small makes you feel..... vulnerable, which amplifies the sense of speed.

[Loring]

The car will have long legs, to be sure. The folks at Rev Works seem to think 6-700 to the ground should last upwards of 50K miles. I'm not sure what makes that a time bomb, as I'm fairly new to the subie world, but I'm quite curious.

700 to the ground is nothing new for me. The 'new' part will be learning how a car this light handles the power, and how to adapt and make the necessary changes to make it behave well. As far as cruising around on the street, on street tires, the boost setting will be fairly modest.

[JeromeS13]

6-700 to the ground should last upwards of 50K miles.

That's funny!

[longislandwrx]

The folks at Rev Works seem to think 6-700 to the ground should last upwards of 50K miles

I'm going to look up these sorcerers and see what they've been up to. I know a handful of owners of cars at this power level built by reputable shops and tuned by reputable tuners, and they seem to spend much of their life up on lifts for some reason or another, and these are $60-80k wrx/sti builds.

I admire your power goals as well, I really can't wait to see some videos of some really high HP 818s tearing it up...

That being said having been on forums for a while now, three things seem to happen with big builds.. The money never materializes and the car never exists. The money is there, the car is built and broken all the time and the owner loses interest in the money pit. The money is there the car is partially built and the owner loses interest. There are a few exceptions to the rule, and they tend to be shop/manufacturer cars with deep pockets.

I will you luck and good fortune.

I am hoping you make it happen.

[Pearldrummer7]

I'm gonna play catch-up on this thread:

Nice donor car.

I think you'll need some beefier axles to say the least. I've heard good things about Frank from the Driveshaft Shop (by both Frank from Montreal on the forum and from my friend Frank who has a Honda powered Fiero. Yes, my name is Frank as well).

This is an exciting project. I really hope it comes to fruition. This will certainly be a big budget car. I would be starting with a stock engine (or whatever was in the donor car) for now while a shop builds my powerplant (and I muster up the money to pay for it). A motorswap is easier once you've proven out the rest of the car (wiring, suspension, etc.).

Either way, I'm subscribed!