Ricks Build Thread MK4

[RickP]

This is about the 3rd or 4th time in the forums I have read this mistake in the past month or so. I don't know if SPC is shipping the UCAs assembled this way or what (I had disassembled mine to anti-seize the threads), but I do caution folks that this is a point where the build manual actually helps. Mine shows very clearly the need to have the balljoints pointing outward at the bottom on Page 92 and has a good oblique view of a correctly assembled control arm on Page 95 (Rev 3P of the Base Manual). I knew better than to rely on the manual for many things during my build, especially with the modification I made, but I referred to it frequently during the suspension portion as it has all the torques and many tips on correctly installing the suspension, like leaving pivot bolts loose until initial alignment is done. This is also the point where you want to adjust the rebound damping on your Koni's, before installation.

A bad assumption on my part led to the incorrectly installed UCA. I definitely took note of the ball joint orientation when I installed the passenger side arm. My mistake happened when I applied the same steps
on the drivers side from the previous day as "I've done this before". Instead I should have applied the same "steps" that led to success on the passenger side.

What I learned from the mistake is to be a more methodical builder and examine each part for correctness AND use the proper thread locker where noted. Had a heck of a time unscrewing the ball joint from the UCA to the point I would not re-use it for cosmetic reasons. That particular brand/part# joint is readily available. $17.00 mistake and a bruised ego is all the damage done.

I'm learning and more importantly, having fun!

[RickP]

Welcome To The Factory Five Family!

You made a great decision going with Factory Five because their quality is like no other kit car manufacturer and I can honestly say that I looked at quite a few others over the period of five years before ordering my MK-4

If you haven't had a chance to ride in and/or drive a Factory Five you are in for a wonderful surprise. Before ordering my kit I was fortunate enough to not only ride in but drive a FFR MK-3 that had manual steering and brakes that was powered by a very healthy 302 with an upgraded T5. That car had the IRS rear and road and drove extremely well. About a year later I got another chance to ride in and drive a Factory Five, but this time it was a MK-4 that was crazy fast with Dyno-Sheets showing a bit over 600 HP to the rear wheels at 18 LBS of boost.

The flame that was lit with the MK-3 turned into an uncontrolled wildfire on that day and I knew I had to build one. That car had a 2003 super charged SVT modular motor, power steering and brakes, a TKO-600 with a three link rear suspension. It was so scary that I had to build one so the process began when I ordered mine on 11/10/2014 and it arrived in January of 2015.

Please know that I'm nearing the Go-Kart stage and about to install my drive train. The build process is always fun even thought it is sometimes frustrating so don't give up because it is always rewarding. Though I'm not finished yet, the build process has been great as have been the entire Factory Five Staff. You'll also meet some fantastic Factory Five Family Members to so get ready for the experience of a life time.

Good Luck On Your Build & May God Bless You & Your Family!

Steve (aka/GoDadGo)

Thank you Steve. I'm really having fun learning and building this car and I am really happy to be apart of this wonderful community.

Rick

[RickP]

Now that I have overcome my incorrectly oriented ball-joint issue, I was able to move on to the brakes. Tomorrow I will tackle the passenger side..DSC_0027.JPGDSC_0028.JPGDSC_0029.JPG

[RickP]

whelp, I've run into a fitment issue that I am hoping someone can offer some guidance on.

In a nutshell, my rear axle to flange offset is 2.5" Just so happens the Wilwood rear parking brake kit (140-12049) has an axle offset of 2.5" so the rotor bumps up against the caliper bracket. Not really sure what direction to go here. I could change the geometry by backspacing the offset, ask Wilwood for a different offset hub/rotor, or swap the Summit axles for Moser axles which I'm sure at this point I can no longer return.

Anyone run into the same predicament?

[RickP]

it occurs to me if I add more spacers between the flange bracket and the axle flange, it will move the caliper bracket further away from the rotor. But in doing so, I would have to add quite a few to make it clear enough to give the rotor some room between itself and the caliper bracket. I don't think this is my best option as I cannot account for the rotor swelling and rubbing against that bracket.

[RickP]

it occurs to me if I add more spacers between the flange bracket and the axle flange, it will move the caliper bracket further away from the rotor. But in doing so, I would have to add quite a few to make it clear enough to give the rotor some room between itself and the caliper bracket. I don't think this is my best option as I cannot account for the rotor swelling and rubbing against that bracket.

scratch that option. Tried adding a couple more washers which added another .060" to the original spaing of .060" and the rotor still interfered with the caliper bracket.

[RickP]

I ending up just holding my breath and adding enough spacers to clear the rotor/caliper bracket. The adage "it takes what it takes" is what I decided was the best resolve. After that, everything lined up nicely.

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[RickP]

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[RickP]

Thought I would get this thread up-to-date. Made some progress in the past couple of weeks once I got past my rear brake mount issues.

sorry my pics aren't big. Havent figured that out yet.

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[stack]

Looks great

stack

[Hottrodder427]

Looks real good,wish I had my konis lol and red calipers

[GoDadGo]

Thought I would get this thread up-to-date. Made some progress in the past couple of weeks once I got past my rear brake mount issues.

sorry my pics aren't big. Havent figured that out yet.

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You are getting there.
Just keep visualizing what you want and how you plan to service it.
By doing this you will really be shocked at how professional your car will turn out.
Also, look at EdwardB's builds.
This fellow has got it down and his stuff is way over the top from a quality perspective.

[wallace18]

Looking Great!

[JC Of NM]

Making progress, enjoy the build process.

[RickP]

You are getting there.
Just keep visualizing what you want and how you plan to service it.
By doing this you will really be shocked at how professional your car will turn out.
Also, look at EdwardB's builds.
This fellow has got it down and his stuff is way over the top from a quality perspective.

Edwardb needs to write a book. I constantly vist his build(s) for reference.

[RickP]

It's been an interesting couple of weeks. After going through 3 area powder coaters who either,
1.) expected way yoo much to coat
2.) considered my job too small
3.) had a contamination problem
4.) considered it ok to take 4 weeks to coat one single panel

I finally landed on Van Industries in Birdsboro, PA. Not only is their pricing fair, they turned around the work in no less than a week (two batches) all done in Kingsport gray. Panel fitment went smoothly and I am very glad I invested in a pneumatic rivet gun. I can't imagine doing it by hand. I made a couple of mistakes along the way but nothing that I could not remedy or put up with.

Next I moved on to the fuel system. This has been an adventure and I used EdwardB's current build as a template. Without his effort, I honestly think I would still be in the planning stage of the fuel delivery. I am supplying my own tank, pump, fuel line, filter etc., so I am working outside of the box. It took me quite some time to rap my head around tube/over hose selection, fittings, adapters, AN vs. NPT etc. The subject can be quite overwhelming to a beginner.

What I learned along the way and what EdwardB mentions in his build. If choosing -06 (3/8" OD) Stainless Steel tube;

1. SS tube of any O.D. is very difficult to bend.
2. SS tube of any O.D. is difficult to flare
3. SS tube is very difficult to straighten (get straight runs if you can).
4. Once you bend it, be sure thats where you want the bend, it's not bending back.

Since I could not or was not willing to flare this tubing choice, I took EdwardB's lead and ended up with a fitting that allows you to attach it to tube without a flare. They are made by Ham-Let and you can get them from Mark at Breeze. Very easy to install. Word of caution: be 100% sure the end of the tube is where you want it before you mount the fitting. Removal is possible but the inside ferrules will not come off. Consider it a permanent installation or search for new ferrules. I made the mistake of running the tube ends to long into the engine bay (my race hose would kink in reaching the regulator) so I had to cut down the tube and subsequently, the pre-mounted fittings. After unsuccessfully trying to take off the fittings, I just decided to re-order a couple more from Mark @ 15.00 bucks a pop. Waiting on those to ship.

Some other things I learned along the way. Use PTFE hose such as Aeroquip Race hose, and try not to mix different fitting manufacturers parts. I used Aeroquip hose as did EdwardB and used all Aeroquip fittings. I also chickened out when trying to make a solid connection on the feed line from tube to filter. So I ened up tunning hose for the remaining gap. The most difficult part of running hard line is getting it on the frame once it's bent. EdwardB has one nice advantage that I don't, a lift. Dragging the tube end across the garage floor will ruin the fittings connections so I had to be extremely careful. It also limited me in what I could do.

I still need to fit the pump, and lines connecting to it, then the feed/return lines from cockpit tube ends to regulator. Waiting on parts from Breeze. Will be starting to turn my attention to brake lines.

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[RickP]

Today I am going to drop the tank (hopefully for the last time) and get the bumper coupler nut mod done. I should of done this before mounting the tank but.....

[KDubU]

I found similar things with PC guys. Their rates really vary. Glad you found someone who can service you. SS is tough but looks good when you're done. I chose SS only for brakes, fuel I used the steel line to engine compartment and then aeroquip flex from there. Looks like you're coming along nicely.

[edwardb]

Hey Rick. Looking good. Glad my experience with the SS tubing was helpful. I agree with your points about what SS is like to work with. Just to add to this having done two builds with SS for both fuel and brake lines, my advice is right tubing and right tools. For my current build, I picked up a larger 3/8-inch tubing bender (Ridgid 36097) and that makes 3/8-inch pretty manageable to bend. For the flares, the Eastwood Pro flaring tool is pretty much the minimum for SS. For the 3/8-inch tubing, the Ham-Let Let-Lok fittings work great and don't require a flare. Keep up the great work!

[RickP]

Hey Rick. Looking good. Glad my experience with the SS tubing was helpful. I agree with your points about what SS is like to work with. Just to add to this having done two builds with SS for both fuel and brake lines, my advice is right tubing and right tools. For my current build, I picked up a larger 3/8-inch tubing bender (Ridgid 36097) and that makes 3/8-inch it pretty manageable to bend. For the flares, the Eastwood Pro flaring tool is pretty much the minimum for SS. For the 3/8-inch tubing, the Ham-Let Let-Lok fittings work great and don't require a flare. Keep up the great work!

Your build and experience that goes behind it all is my main "go to" when I don't know how to do something or need guidance on how to accomplish something. I even went out and bought the Maxleon head lamp you mentioned in your thread. Fantastic!!! Thank you.

My Harbor Frieght tube bender did all it could to bend that SS tube. I couldn't get it in straight runs as you did so I ended up purchasing the Eastwood 3/8 tube straightener(luckily, I have an Eastwood paints 5 minutes from me). It too had trouble with the SS. I cut down the roll in 2 -10' runs so it was more manageable. Got it fairly straight. But your right, right tool for the job is everything. Darn near went out and got the Rigid bender as you did. I have to agree that the Let Lok fittings are very nice. Solid connection, easy to install, and gee whiz, no flare needed. Instant AN fitting.

[RickP]

I haven't posted any progress in awhile. My laptop decided to take a nap. Since finishing up the brake plumbing which yet still have yet to be bled properly, I moved on to the installation of the Breeze battery box. Not much going on there. Mark includes very solid instructions and all hardware to mount.

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from there I decided to get the electrical components at least run to there prospective location. I am using the RF setup.

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[RickP]

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[RickP]

DSC_0031 [iPhone].JPGDSC_0030 [iPhone].JPGDSC_0028 [iPhone].JPGDSC_0027 [iPhone].JPGDSC_0026 [iPhone].JPGI see the electrical is going to be a "work in progress" and I needed to get the trunk aluminum out to the powder coater so that was the next thing I did. Kicking myself for riveting in the cockpit back wall. Makes it pretty tough to get the upper trunk floor in.

and for the life of me, I still can't figure out how to make these pics big so one doesn't need to click on them to see any detail.

[RickP]

to finished off the trunk aluminum. I learned the hard way to not rivet down the rear cockpit wall. No matter, its all sealed up now.

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I'm in a phase of flux with the electrical in that it's all run to their prospective locations. I'm going to tackle the dash panel next and attempt to use the same method EdwardB did to hang his panel.

[RickP]

I've thought about and researched for quite some time about how I can implement an instrument panel that:

1. doesn't show any visible screws that don't belong there when installed. (you know what I mean!)
2. can easily be removed if needed
3. can be adjusted up or down so I can complete/test my wiring without fitting the body
4. and obviously, look good.

After studying several threads (EdwardB notable), and weeks of just thinking, here's my solution.

I liked the bracket system EdwardB used on his anniversary edition build and what several others have done but I wasn't comfortable trying to marry up a bracket of sorts to the 3/4" dash hoop so I decided to buy myself a little room by attaching a bracket (3 of them) to the dash hoop with a 8/32nd polynut. The bracket extends out towards the engine enough to allow some room to drill a hole and align a bottom bracket attached via a 1/4"x 1.5" bolt.

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a quick note about the upper bracket. I rivnutted it in place so I could remove it during the mock up. I will at some point go back and insert a 1/8 rivet along side the 8/32 button head. It will be permanent at that point.

I temporarily held a lower bracket in place so I could scribe a hole in the upper bracket. I then drilled/inserted a 1/4 polynut in the upper bracket. This will serve as the receiver for the lower bracket.

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from there I took the dash off and drilled two holes through the face of the dash to accept the lower bracket. I didn't need to eyeball this step because a 1/4 x 1.5 allen head bolt with a washer screwed into the upper bracket allowed for exact alignment to the lower bracket. Then it was just a matter of marking the two screw holes for the lower bracket that I had previously marked it's location against the back of the panel. I liked how EdwardB backed his dash up with a secondary piece of aluminum so I did sorta the same by JB Welding some square patches in place. Then drilled through these to complete the mounting locations for the lower bracket.

Adding the backing material takes the stress out of recessing the screw holes. You can barely see the second layer of backing aluminum in the recessed hole. Very glad I did this step.


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Then I mated the lower brackets to the panel with 8/32 bolts and nylon nuts. The brackets are strategically placed so as to not interfere with an instruments and also allow for access from below.
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sometimes the light bulb goes off when actually implementing something so it occurred to me I needed a spacer between the lower and upper bracket. 3/8x1 would suffice.

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all three brackets mounted
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nothing holding the panel in place other than the brackets. If I want to move the dash up, it would be a matter of decreasing the length of the spacers and visa versa if I want to lower it. When I get the body on, I can do my final adjustments and lock everything down.
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I will add 3 Breeze Dash mounts below and polynut them to the 2x2 lower dash bar. I also ordered the FFR dash support when I ordered the kit but I can already tell mounting it would be overkill. I'm thinking about using it however and building a console.

[GoDadGo]

Looking Good!

[RickP]

Looking Good!

thanks GoDadGo - she's coming along.

[michael pavon]

well congratulations!!!
i can only say that after we got ours about a month ago, everyday we look forward to get home to do something to it.. to that you can not put a price!
best of luck

[RickP]

After figuring out the dash mounting, I decided to tackle the task of getting a covering on it. I agree with EdwardB that the FFR supplied dash covering is a little puffy looking when gauges are inserted. Looks like the nap or foam is about a 1/4" thick. I followed EdwardB's play book and decided to do my own version of a "leather wrapped" dash. I used the same supplier he did and ordered some foam backing 1/8" thick and picked up a can of the DAP Landau and trim contact cement. Only sold in gallons. I am going to second EdwardB's review of this product as it brushes or rolls on easily, and when it sticks, it sticks.

After getting the holes cut for various switches, indicator lights etc, the first thing I did was cut down the foam to a "workable" size. I then traced out the dash on the foam so I would know where to land the glue.

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I then laid the dash over the foam backing and set it in place. Once some time passed, I cut out each hole ending up with a foam faced dash panel

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I knew the way I attached the foam to the panel could not be done the same way with the faux leather material. If any mistake would be made, now would be the time. Like I said before, the DAP contact cement sticks like no business.

I coated both the foam and leather material and once dry to the touch, I put some wax paper over the dash then very carefully laid down the leather while pulling out the wax paper between the two surfaces. You almost have to roll the leather on about 6 inches at a time making sure it lays flat.

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Once I had it initially "stuck", I used a plastic body filler scraper to really ensure it was "stuck in all the right places. From there, it was just a matter of trimming it up to a more manageable size using a good pair of scissors. Cut my slits and glued down all edges.
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Now the fun part. And I used a lot of razor blades to get the holes cut to accept gauges, switches etc. For the big holes I pie cut and glued. Same for the smaller engine monitoring gauge holes. For the smaller holes I just cut a circle the same size as the hole in the aluminum. Took a few hours to do.

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The next day I se the gauges in place. Finished product.

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All I need to do now is wire it up and install.

P.S. - I'm fairly certain that everyone's kitchen table looks like mine at some point http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/icons/icon6.png

[dmoran]

Very nice job! I have been wondering what to do about my dash. I'm now feeling inspired :-) Thanks for the details and the pictures.

P.S. - I'm fairly certain that everyone's kitchen table looks like mine at some point

If that was my kitchen table, I would probably have been shot by my wife. Afterward, she would be wondering why my body was glued to the chair, the chair glued to the floor and the dashboard glued to the table. I could do a lot of damage with a gallon of contact cement in the kitchen...

[RickP]

Very nice job! I have been wondering what to do about my dash. I'm now feeling inspired :-) Thanks for the details and the pictures.



If that was my kitchen table, I would probably have been shot by my wife. Afterward, she would be wondering why my body was glued to the chair, the chair glued to the floor and the dashboard glued to the table. I could do a lot of damage with a gallon of contact cement in the kitchen...

thank you dmoran,

yeah..... can't say my better half was too thrilled with my effort. She didn't know what I was up too until the can was open and glue being applied. Too bad they don't sell it in smaller portions. It's actually meant to be sprayed. Post some pics when you get your dash underway.

[WIS89]

Rick-

I agree with dmoran, that my wife would be pretty darned upset. I think that's a job I would tackle when she was in the middle of a long day of shopping! HA

I like your work. The dash looks great, and your gauges look sharp!

Keep up the good worK!

Regards,

Steve

[RickP]

Rick-

I agree with dmoran, that my wife would be pretty darned upset. I think that's a job I would tackle when she was in the middle of a long day of shopping! HA

I like your work. The dash looks great, and your gauges look sharp!

Keep up the good worK!

Regards,

Steve

thank you Steve. Fact of the matter is my whole house looks like a car parts store. I've even commandeered a spare bedroom as a parts "waiting area". HA! As soon as I get done the wiring up of the gauges, she can have her kitchen table back. In the meantime, it's take out or I take her to dinner.

[cnutting]

Good timing, dash assembly is coming up soon. I'll pick up some of the DAP product. FFR gave me two different dash covers; one thick, one thin. I'm planning on using the thin as the thick looks like it will end up looking puffy.

[edwardb]

Dash is looking good! Glad some of my experiences where helpful. My wife is incredibly supportive of my car craziness. But I wouldn't get away with doing work on the kitchen table, let alone that incredibly strong smelling DAP Landau adhesive.

[RickP]

Dash is looking good! Glad some of my experiences where helpful. My wife is incredibly supportive of my car craziness. But I wouldn't get away with doing work on the kitchen table, let alone that incredibly strong smelling DAP Landau adhesive.

she just informed me we are having guests on Sunday. Guess I will have to relocate. I gotta say EdwardB, your car is a work of art. Your attention to detail is something to strive for. It really came out nice. I thank you for posting in such detail all your effort. Very helpful to me and other first time builders. I still say you should write a book.

[RickP]

I decided to give the dash/wiring a break while waiting on the Russ Thompson turn signal and various relays to arrive by switching gears and get the e-brake installed. Quite frankly, I have been dreading this step. I was hell bent on using "something" from my 87 donor and the brake handle was in decent condition. I really didn't want to put out the $$ for a Lokar setup. So I decided to give the OEM a go.

I have the Wilwood brakes and 87 solid axle. I had to overcome a previous issue when mounting the rear brakes where they ended up colliding with the shocks. If anyone is interested or have run into a similar issue, here is a thread I started awhile ago outlining the problem and the resolution I came up with.

for your viewing pleasure.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Shock-Fitment

In the end, my calipers are mounted at a 2:00 o'clock position forward of the axle. This will require the brake cable to be mounted downward (pulling down). This issue coupled with all the prior builders posting problems, I have been putting it off. I was turning wrenches at 5:30 EST this morning trying to beat this heat wave we are having on the east coast. It was 90 degrees in the garage at 8:00am.

First up, get the handle mounted. I wasn't happy with the clearance between the handle and tranny tunnel aluminum (not even enough room to wrap your hand around the handle) so I took it off and bent the mounting tabs on the brake ever so slightly. Not great but better! And yes, I know it cannot be worked while strapped in.



I mounted the cables into the caliper first after removing powder coat from the brake line bracket ( .5' hole) and then routed the cables up and over the diff.



after attaching the cables into the first bracket above the diff, seemed the cables would be way too long. I DID NOT want to do this but in order to make the cables end up the right length, I went under the 4" round tube.



couple of things I'm not happy with aside from having to go under the 4" round tube.

1. After releasing the brake handle, the brakes were dragging. So I added a helper spring. Seems to work but I think I need to bleed the brakes one more time and also, adjust the e-handle.



2. And lastly, when the e-brake is engaged, the OEM equalizer is hitting or almost hitting the bracket to the left of my finger.



the pic above is with the handle in the released or down position.

I gotta feeling I will be paying this area of the car another visit but if anyone can offer some advice like " how can I add slack to the brake line by adjusting the e-brake" it would be greatly appreciated.

Bonus................... figured out how to post full size pics. Whoop whoop!

[bluse]

The dash looks awesome, nicely done.

[RickP]

The dash looks awesome, nicely done.

Thank you. Speaking of dash. The Russ Thompson turn signal arrived in the mail and I couldn't wait to get it installed. Just need to finalize some wiring and it's done. I think it turned out pretty nice!

[RickP]

Today was a banner day in Rick's garage. I am finally at a rolling chassis point. I ended up choosing Nitto NT555 - 255/40/17's for the front and NT555 G2's - 315/35/17's for the rear. After having to re-route the caliper brake lines to fit the big Halibrand wheels, she rolled out of the garage with ease. Of course, for every action there is a reaction, not so sure my body buck will fit around those big tires. Hmmm.