SOLIDWORKS-Mike's 818S Build Thread

[aquillen]

It's easy to miss things when trying to scan through threads. The laser is yours to play with anytime you like, I know its a bit of a drive to Vegas, but I don't use it as much anymore.

Mechie, Mike -

I've got one of those lasers too, up here NW Indiana. I know Mechie can make it that far. Need some excuses to run the thing for that matter. Mike - software I got was pretty much Chinese mess. Wondering if you got that all sorted and maybe something better. I got this to do some product etching on plastic for a project that is still out to lunch. Would be cool to do some 818 "things" with it.

Art

[aquillen]

Trying to get the little things out of the way before the kit arrives, so installing a chip to reset the odometer back to zero was tonight's project. I ordered one of the EEPROMs from K3LAG's thread and followed the dis-assembly instructions.

All taken apart:



The chip in question:



Replaced by the new chip:



The most difficult part of the process is removing the old chip. All I had was a solder sucker but solder wick would have been much easier. Guess I'll find out if it worked when I get to the step where I can power up the car! Unless someone knows how to test it on the bench?

I thought K3LAG had stopped doing these chips. Unless I'm lost in the thread pile, I don't see anything since summer '15 from him. I picked up chips, and my old Needhams EMP20 programmer does read and write these, so am about to figure out the code (using some help from outside forum info I found a while back). But if K3LAG has useable code I'd like to "borrow it"... My project is to reset 2001-2002 H6 odometer though, not 4 cyl. Probably about the same Hex/locations but I need to do the analysis to make sure. I already copied the original chip to another and dropped that one onto the board. It read the same so I know my 1995 vintage programmer is still good. Odometer reads... are you ready for this: 305698. Wonder if that donor was still on the first motor - don't really want that # in my 818 from the git-go.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Mechie, Mike -

I've got one of those lasers too, up here NW Indiana. I know Mechie can make it that far. Need some excuses to run the thing for that matter. Mike - software I got was pretty much Chinese mess. Wondering if you got that all sorted and maybe something better. I got this to do some product etching on plastic for a project that is still out to lunch. Would be cool to do some 818 "things" with it.

Art

Pretty much stuck using the RDWorks (not affiliated with SOLIDWORKS) software that comes with it. This guy on YouTube has a ton of videos about the machine and software that were super helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/user/SarbarMultimedia/videos

For creating geometry to cut, I use our free 2D CAD package (essentially a clone of AutoCAD) DraftSight: https://www.3ds.com/products-service...-cad-software/

I pretty much use this guide for setting speeds and cutting power: http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/manual...dsfeeds_RL.pdf

Other than that, it's pretty much trial and error!

[aquillen]

I knew what was coming with the laser was lacking, but da** the torpedoes, full speed ahead... right? Every tid bit helps though - thanks for the links. I'll check them out. I managed to etch some paper before I had to pack it up for our move last fall.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I thought K3LAG had stopped doing these chips. Unless I'm lost in the thread pile, I don't see anything since summer '15 from him. I picked up chips, and my old Needhams EMP20 programmer does read and write these, so am about to figure out the code (using some help from outside forum info I found a while back). But if K3LAG has useable code I'd like to "borrow it"... My project is to reset 2001-2002 H6 odometer though, not 4 cyl. Probably about the same Hex/locations but I need to do the analysis to make sure. I already copied the original chip to another and dropped that one onto the board. It read the same so I know my 1995 vintage programmer is still good. Odometer reads... are you ready for this: 305698. Wonder if that donor was still on the first motor - don't really want that # in my 818 from the git-go.

I sent him a private message and he happened to have a few left. Not sure what his status is otherwise, but shoot him a message.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Of course as expected, about 3 hours after I land in Boston, Stewart calls and schedules delivery for Wednesday! Guess I have to ask a friend to meet the driver so they can unload the kit in to my garage. It's going to be a long 12 days away from home!

[Rasmus]

That sucks man.

[Solidworks-Mike]

That sucks man.

Feel free to head over this weekend and get a jump on the build for me while I'm gone!

[Rasmus]

Sure thing. I only have two things to get done beforehand.

1. Finish my 818
2. Drive my 818
3. Build yours.

[Solidworks-Mike]

The kit has arrived! Unfortunately I'm 2,800 miles from it in Boston. It's like myself and the kit traded places!









For now it sits tucked away in the garage until I get back in a week:

[Mitch Wright]

Looking forward to watching your build.

[Solidworks-Mike]

So after getting back from my trip to Boston I was able to get into build. Spent most of Friday night going through the parts and have several items on back order including the build manual, the headlight lenses, shifter base, and shifter cables. First order of business was to remove the body:



Of course step one is the plastic plugs which I tapped in using a hammer I made in high school in 1990:



I got the front firewall mounted except for the piece in front of the pedal box since I'm using the Wildwood kit:



Trying to get the motor all reassembled so I put on the Grimmspeed up pipe and the turbo:



Next up was the freshly painted intake and the Zerolift TGV deletes:



Today I plan to clean and paint the alternator, not sure how that will go since I'm not too sure about taking it apart and being able to put it back together:



Finally, the envelope with the packing list didn't have a certificate from FFR, should it have been in there?

Also, the list shows that I got the race splitter instead of the street version, does this indeed look like the race version, and will it look funny on a street kit:

[Mechie3]

I think the race splitter is longer. I took aparty alternator. I think there where two spots you need to put in a pin to.hold the brushes in a retracted position. Then after it's back together pull the pins.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I think the race splitter is longer. I took aparty alternator. I think there where two spots you need to put in a pin to.hold the brushes in a retracted position. Then after it's back together pull the pins.

I remember seeing that somewhere on here as well, so I'll look for it. Based on the pics on the FFR site, it is longer, I'll have to check my order sheet and see what we selected that day. Got your box by the way, thanks!

[mikeb75]

Mechie is correct about alternator reassembly. I lunched mine when I took it apart to clean and paint, and that was after about 2 hours of working to get it reassembled with the (really annoying) pins holding the brushes (?) to drop the rotor assembly back in.

[idf]

Your splitter is the same as mine. I'm not sure if it is race or street, but I think it looks ok on my car. You get to choose how far you extend it forward.
My certificate of origin came when the back ordered parts came.
Be careful with the wiring with the TGV deletes. I messed something up when I removed mine and have still not sorted it out. Remember that one of the TGV motors (the one with 4 wires) has the ambient air pressure sensor built into it which you will need to preserve. There is a link on the forum to a NASIOC posting on how to do this.

[Hindsight]

Remember that one of the TGV motors (the one with 4 wires) has the ambient air pressure sensor built into it which you will need to preserve. There is a link on the forum to a NASIOC posting on how to do this.

I'm not sure if it's different for different years, but on my 2007, it was the air pump / egr valve that had the ambient pressure sensor built in.

[idf]

I'm not sure if it's different for different years, but on my 2007, it was the air pump / egr valve that had the ambient pressure sensor built in.

Sorry, Hindsight is correct.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I'm not sure if it's different for different years, but on my 2007, it was the air pump / egr valve that had the ambient pressure sensor built in.

Sorry, Hindsight is correct.

I double checked and both plugs have only 3 wires so the sensor is on the air pump. I'm planning to add a resistor across those two wires once I can dig up the thread that has the info in it!

[Solidworks-Mike]

So, a slight oversight on my part in that the Wilwood pedal set up uses a completely different firewall! So out with the panels I mounted yesterday, and in with the new ones (still need to trim off the parts that stick out to match the old panels:





Also got the motor all back together including the wire harness. Was also able to take apart the alternator to paint it:



Anyone know how to set the tension on the belt correctly?

I wasn't able to find any installation instructions for the Wilwood pedals, so I took a bunch of pictures for anyone in the future that might need them. Posted them in a thread here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...342#post235342

[Rasmus]

Anyone know how to set the tension on the belt correctly?

Shoot for around 10 mm of deflection when using about 10kg of force.

[aquillen]

Mike,

If you still have your front arms off the frame, I'm wondering if I can ask a favor. I'm looking at using 08' style parts so competely different. Lots of research and probable welding coming. One thing is understanding some differences in dimensions. If you would be willing - I have doctor'ed your pix from earlier to show lengths I need. The perspective of the camera shot may be misleading. Since I don't have the style arms normally used - like yours - I don't yet know whether the ball joint is in line or back set like suggested in the attached pix. Can you put a carpenter's framing square (for example) on top of an arm and give me dimensions to the points I drew here? (I love millimeters if you have the means).... Probably need to scare up back end info too but it can wait.

Many thanks either way! Art.

FRONT ARM DIM.JPG

[Solidworks-Mike]

Mike,

If you still have your front arms off the frame, I'm wondering if I can ask a favor. I'm looking at using 08' style parts so competely different. Lots of research and probable welding coming. One thing is understanding some differences in dimensions. If you would be willing - I have doctor'ed your pix from earlier to show lengths I need. The perspective of the camera shot may be misleading. Since I don't have the style arms normally used - like yours - I don't yet know whether the ball joint is in line or back set like suggested in the attached pix. Can you put a carpenter's framing square (for example) on top of an arm and give me dimensions to the points I drew here? (I love millimeters if you have the means).... Probably need to scare up back end info too but it can wait.

Many thanks either way! Art.

FRONT ARM DIM.JPG

Art,

A= 331.19mm
B= 348.90mm
C= 51.84mm

When A and B are perpendicular, then there is a value for C. If you draw a line from the intersection of A and B to the center of the balljoint, it an angle of 8.60 degrees.



I verified those numbers on the actual part using a metric measuring tape, and they matched.

[aquillen]

Mike wrote: I verified those numbers on the actual part using a metric measuring tape, and they matched...

Wow - I couldn't ask for more exacting info and it's certainly just what I need. Very much appreciated & hoping to repay the favor. -art

[Solidworks-Mike]

Shoot for around 10 mm of deflection when using about 10kg of force.

I think I'll just convince you to stop by to use your expert judgement on the tension!

[Solidworks-Mike]

Had a few hours tonight after work to do some stuff on the car so figured I'd mount the steering rack and the throttle pedal.

First up, the throttle:







Next up was the steering rack including the nice shiny mount from Zero Decibel:



Finally, can someone tell me where this line from the turbo should be connected to:

[Rasmus]

Finally, can someone tell me where this line from the turbo should be connected to:

Believe that goes to the EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid).

[Solidworks-Mike]

Believe that goes to the EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid).

Ah yes, another missing part!

[wleehendrick]

Had a few hours tonight after work to do some stuff on the car so figured I'd mount the steering rack and the throttle pedal.

FYI, FFR's mount for the DBW pedal puts it too low/foreward for good heel-n-toe operation, IMHO. I bent the upper part of the bracket and used a standoff on the lower mounting point to get the pedal in a better spot. There's a tiny bit of flex, so I'll probably install a stop at some point.

[wleehendrick]

FYI, FFR's mount for the DBW pedal puts it too low/foreward for good heel-n-toe operation, IMHO. I bent the upper part of the bracket and used a standoff on the lower mounting point to get the pedal in a better spot. There's a tiny bit of flex, so I'll probably install a stop at some point.

I just noticed the Wilwood pedals; my comments were with respect to the OEM pedal box, so don't know how those sit in relation. However, before you move on, I'd recommend evaluating the position.

[Solidworks-Mike]

I just noticed the Wilwood pedals; my comments were with respect to the OEM pedal box, so don't know how those sit in relation. However, before you move on, I'd recommend evaluating the position.

Since I won't be racing the car I'm more then ok with moving my foot from brake to throttle as I normally do when I drive. Because of that I'm not too concerned about how close they are but more with them being inline with each other. Based on the amount of fore and aft adjustment on the Wilwood pedals, this shouldn't be an issue. The bracket does have a tiny bit of flex so I might try to rectify that as well. All of this of course has to wait until I get my seats!

[Solidworks-Mike]

A few more hours tonight, and a few minor steps forward.

Hung the upper control arms:



Then decided to throw in the steering column to see how everything lined up. The arm of the brake pedal hit the side of the column when I pull it all the way towards the seat, but I don't think I'll have them adjusted out so far anyways.



Then I decided to mount the front clip and radiator:







Tomorrow I leave on a trip thats going to have me out of the state then out of the country for about the next 3 weeks, so until then this is where I'll leave things at:

[wleehendrick]

Since I won't be racing the car I'm more then ok with moving my foot from brake to throttle as I normally do when I drive. Because of that I'm not too concerned about how close they are but more with them being inline with each other.

I used to do that, but since I learned proper heel-and-toe technique, I often now use in daily driving. IMHO, it's one of the things that makes driving a manual transmission that much more enjoyable, even on the street! I always rev-match downshifts (unless coming to a complete stop, then I usually just leave the clutch depressed), and the only way to rev-match while braking is to heel-and-toe (unless you have a newer Vette, BMW or 370Z that have automatic throttle blip downshift function on their MT's).

Nailing a proper rev-matched downshift which braking for a corner adds so much to the enjoyment of the intimate man/machine interface (which is what the 818 is all about to me). I would recommend practicing some heel-and-toe work, and getting the pedals placed appropriately to do so. FYI, I prefer foot placement more like this graphic:



But this requires good pedal placement; the 818's 06-07 DBW bracket unfortunately does not allow it. I was able to do so with a slight modification, as described. I have difficulty with the lower leg rotation required to do it like this, when the pedals are further apart or not lined up:




Safe travels!

[Rasmus]

I love heel-toeing in my daily driver. Makes for great practice.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I bent the bracket on my 06 DBW pedal as shown.

gas pedal.jpg

In the end, I went with the DBW pedal out of the 04FXT.

P1050069s.jpg

P1050071s.jpg

Looks like I need to practice that heal toe foot action.

I needed to add a pedal stop to prevent ECU faults.

Bobs_pedal_ stops.jpg

Bob

[Solidworks-Mike]

The pedal I have has a built in stop, but I was wondering about needing to add one when I had seen your install a while back.

[wleehendrick]

The pedal I have has a built in stop, but I was wondering about needing to add one when I had seen your install a while back.

Yeah, my 06 pedal has a stop too, but the bracket flexes a bit since the force is off-center of the two mounting points. I'm sure it would be fine for casual driving, but successive exuberant stomps on the throttle (who would do that?) could stress it, so I will probably make a stop like Bob's.

[Solidworks-Mike]

Back from Africa and able to get some work done!

First order of business was to flip the chassis on it's side in order to fit and mount the under seat aluminum:



Next we moved on to hanging some of the front suspension:





One issue we are confused over however is the mounting of the rear bushing to the frame (next to the firewall). When we used the inner holes on the driver side, the distance from the ball joint to the firewall was about 1/2inch closer then it was on the passenger side where we used the inner holes. So to get the distance from the firewall to the ball joint to match the passenger side, we had to use the inner holes on the drivers side as shown:



Both sides now dimensionally match up even though they are using different mounting holes next to the firewall. Anyone have an idea as to why, or if our solution will be ok?

[Rasmus]

Welcome back. How were the rains down in Africa?

Mixing mounting hole like that seems really goofy to me. We all know that the FFR frames aren't Toyota quality as far as dimensions down to sub millimeter precision. But that's way off. What portion of the firewall are you using as a baseline? Did you cross measure to back up your finding? Example: Left ball joint to Right firewall.

Those outer mounting points for the lower front control arms are supposed to be for the wagon arms. Which are shorter.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Both sides now dimensionally match up even though they are using different mounting holes next to the firewall. Anyone have an idea as to why, or if our solution will be ok?

Hi Mike, Welcome back.
The rear bushing on you driver side is up-side-down. Just spin it 180 on the LCA shaft and remount in the inside holes.
Also mount the forward LCA bushing to the inside holes.

bushing.jpg
The squiggle in bushing need to be down on the 818.

(edit) Your right side bushing is correct by the pictures. The squiggle in the bushing should be down.
Many have made that mistake.
Bob