Excel Build Sheet

[hmoody98]

Hey guys!

So I am beginning the process of trying to layout my budget for my build and I was wondering if some of you guys who used Excel to create a build sheet would be willing to share your build sheet? I don't mind if you guys delete out numbers if you aren't comfortable with sharing that stuff, but I am more concerned in just seeing the different categories and items folks have in there. I am SURE there are things that I am missing in my sheet and just thought it would be nice to have another sheet to reference.

Thanks guys!

[JIMOCO]

I have a detailed build sheet and listing of every expenditure including minor hardware items. I would be happy to share it with you. Please send me a PM and we can set up a file exchange.

jimoco

[CraigS]

Are you sure you want to do this? You really want to know exactly how much you will spend?

[chopthebass]

I agree Craig. My budget ran out a long time ago. I dread to think how much its costing me!

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Throwing the receipts in the draw & never ever looking at them is happiness.

[JIMOCO]

I guess there are two schools of thought. Do you really want to know the final cost and be prepared for the full amount of expenditures you might make or throw caution to the wind and deal with the surprises along the way? I guess that very few of us stayed within our budget and were able to avoid purchasing the "must haves" and most are happy they do not know the total. I agree with the two comments about not wanting to know before hand and move forward purchasing items with a mental justification of the value of the purchases regardless of the budget. That is what I did but the anal accountant in me wanted a record of what I spent and kept/recorded my receipts. I guess it comes down to your budget limitations. How many of us started these projects and have a very expensive pile of parts and an incomplete car to show for it because they ran out of money? It is important to know your limitations and willingness to ignore them.

[Bren]

I also have a spreadsheet somewhere where I kept track of all of my purchases. PM me your email address and I'll email it to you.

[Paparazzi]

I started my build almost 10 years ago without a specific budget in mind. I knew I wasn't going donor so the costs would be higher but did have good intention on trying to keep the costs down. I got a great deal on my engine/tranny from a local Craig's List ad but other than that I really just bought as the build progressed and I needed parts. One thing I did learn early on is that when sourcing parts there are generally three categories to choose from. (1) The part that fits, works, and is perfectly functional; (2) The part that costs a bit more but looks nicer; (3) Ooooh - look at that! Unfortunately I tended to lean to the latter categories and ended up needing things like a 6 year old needs something.

[Boydster]

I have a spreadsheet that I've been working on for 2 years. It's a dream build. I'm saving the money to be able to do what I want to do, all in cash. The spreadsheet helps me with how much I need to have on hand before ordering. Because of the financials, my first F5 will be my only one and I want to know I can finish it before I start. I will have extra cash for "unforseens", and the paint / bodywork budget will be separate. I'm hesitant to share my spreadsheet yet because as I said... It's a dream build. I hope I'm going about it the smart way, because I've worked for this for a long time.

[stevenburgess]

There should always be at least two sprees sheets. One that the wife sees and one that you never make that has the real cost

[Gumball]

I didn't do an Excel worksheet for my build, but I did document and then track the period-correct modifications I did during my build (Mk3.1). Here's the text from the post I made quite a while ago.

Here's the list of the mods that have been incorporated into 7074 (Mk3.1). Many of these aren't correct for an original AC, but I think they add a nice vintage touch. Others would not be necessary on the current Mk4.

In no particular order, here's what I've done or, in some cases, what I'm planning:

• Riveted hood scoop – FFR supplied option
• Rivets ringing the leading edge of the hood
• Bumpers w/hoops – polished stainless steel (FFR)
• Roll hoop, driver’s side only – 1 ½” Mk4 version (FFR – chromed by Kerr West)
• Four-into-four headers and side pipes – semi-gloss black (FFR pipes ceramic coated by Lo-Ko)
• Smiths mechanical gauges set in an S/C dash layout – speedometer, tach, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, volts, and fuel (Nisonger)
• Period correct switches, knobs, and indicator lights on dash – combination of OEM Ford and Lucas (********** and Moss Motors – mostly MG and Healy parts)
• Pull straps on doors (hooked to door latches to act as a release pull) – black leather (Cobra Restorers – also available from Breeze)
• Door panels, black, with map pockets – black vinyl (Herb’s)
• Locking glove box to match dash covering (RV supply house)
• Tags (AC Cars and Shelby American) – stamped with donor SVT engine # and my personal build #
• Dash to transmission tunnel tubes (non-structural – used to route speedo cable and rear wiring harness)
• Seat mounting pans (Breeze)
• Serge-bound carpet edges where visible
• Coco mats – custom floor mats in period-correct materials (Cocomats.com)
• Degas tank with “FoMoCo” stamped hoses and tower clamps – OEM Ford modified big block style (Ebay)
• Holley 650 cfm double-pumper with mechanical linkage
• Early-style engine front cover with V-belt pulleys
• OEM Ford dual-point distributor with Pertronix and Pertronix coil with yellow painted top
• Turkey pan for carb
• S&H air cleaner with K&N filter instead of green foam (Cobra Restorers)
• Hood opening under scoop modified to fit turkey pan
• Oil catch can on firewall (Original S/C design from Cobra Restorers – Kohler lawnmower gas tank version)
• Girling remote brake reservoir cans (pair from Moss Motors) with braided supply lines (Pegasus Auto Racing) and adapter nipples (Lodestone Billet Works) to attach to OEM Ford ’94 SVT master cylinder
• Original style hood hinges (Breeze)
• Hood hinge filler panel (Breeze)
• Hidden trunk hinges (Breeze)
• Windscreen washer squirters, bottle, and pump (Moss Motors)
• Turn signal – self cancelling with lever pointing to passenger side as original and no push switch on the end – small end custom made by Russ (Russ Thompson)
• Aluminum handle for OEM Ford parking brake lever – extra machining by me to add original shape (Replica Parts)
• Trunk lid support rod (**********)
• Trunk lid, modified without peak (FFR Mk4)
• Grommets in tail below trunk lid for bungee cord
• Grommets for bumper brackets (**********)
• Grommets for roll hoop (FFR)
• Rectangular tail lights with original Lucas lenses (********** – lenses sourced from private seller in England)
• Original Lucas lenses for front marker lights (private seller in England)
• Windshield support rod and bracket (**********)
• Vintage Road America water transfer “June Sprints” decal from ’65 (Ebay)
• Rockguards for headlamps (**********)
• Driving lights (Lucas P700) – mounted on bumper hoop in radiator opening (Moss Motors)
• Lucas Tri-Bar headlights (Moss Motors)
• Black e-tape on headlights
• FFR Halibrand-style wheels with knock-off centers (17x9 front & 17”x10.5” rear)
• Soft top and side curtains (FFR old-style with lexan sliding windows in side curtains)
• Tonneau cover – black vinyl (FFR)
• Lift-the-dot posts and side curtain ferrules for top and tonneau
• Rolled cowl front and rear with exposed rivet heads
• Rolled wheel well lips
• AC pedal covers (brake and clutch)
• Original-style throttle pedal on Russ Thompson pedal lever
• Side louvers painted body color (**********)
• Badges (Cobra enamel-style) for nose and tail (**********)
• AC badge for steering wheel center
• Waxed cord wrap on steering wheel at spokes
• “Powered by Ford” badges for sides (289 style without engine size)
• Wind wings with logo removed (FFR)
• Sunvisors (FFR)
• Windshield side post plates and washers – original style (**********)
• Grab handle on passenger side cowl – original style (**********)
• Safetywire on wheel knock-offs
• 1965 license plate (choice of Illinois or CA Shelby manufacturer)
• Shelby Motors license plate frame
• Trunk carpeting (FFR)
• Foot-well ducts with period-correct “pull” knobs on far outside edges of dash (PaulProe)
• Map reading light on passenger side of dash - Lucas (MGA parts from Moss)
• “The Last Open Road” sticker – Highly recommended fiction novel on road racing in the 1950’s by Burt Levy – the first in a series
• Engine bay battery box with Lucas decals and fake filler caps on battery (Breeze)
• Hilte low-expansion foam filler for inside doors (electrical contractor supply house or Ebay)
• Rolled door openings with exposed rivet heads
• Foot dimmer switch for headlamps (NPD for Ford OEM part)
• OEM Ford 1G alternator with “Autolite” production ink stamp and OEM appearing brackets
• OEM Ford voltage regulator (NPD reproduction Ford part)
• OEM Ford starter solenoid (NPD reproduction Ford part)
• Engine bay wiring harness (NPD reproduction Ford part)
• Oil cooler (FFR)
• Factory-appearing placards/decals/labels (Year One, NPD, Mustangs Plus, and Moss Motors)
• Trunk floor storage bin (Dark Water Customs)
• Tecalemit grease gun in trunk
• Tool roll with vintage tools
• Spare tire and jack (OEM Ford parts – space saver from donor car)
• Splashguards inside rear wheel wells (Dark Water Customs)
• Rear fender spats – aluminum (past vendor – Brian Alvarez)
• Original style ashtray on top of trans tunnel (Cobra Restorers)
• Reverse lock-out style shift lever and flat-top black round knob with four-speed markings
• Original style hood prop rod (homemade)

[Raceral]

Complete kit with new 400hp SB,tko, 8.8 rear wheels and tires, paint... $44,500... minimum...... then you must had on the little crap. Another$2000.00
Damn, why did I post this.. my feelings are hurt.

[Chip997]

I agree with Stevenburgess. Always keep a spreadsheet to show and a secret one with the real costs. Or better yet, as Kevin states, throw them in a drawer and don't look back.

[hmoody98]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I am not looking to be super-anal and record every expenditure but I am trying to accomplish a few things ahead of time here. One, I will be doing this on a teacher's salary and fairly fresh out of college. I don't have kids or a wife, so that helps things as far as weekly expenditures. So I was trying to get just a rough idea of things and also what are some of the common pitfalls that people all same to buying so I can add that to my budget. I do not plan on building a true show car with a ton of money in paint either. This is something I plan on building and autocrossing/hill climbs/time attacks, but have it still be a street car and one I can take to cruise-ins with my dad. It won't be the nicest one of the bunch when its done, but it'll be mine. And then I will spend the next few years upgrading the pieces as I choose.

[Gumball]

One way to keep it within a budget would be to go with the complete kit and avoid modifications and replacement of the provided parts. That will also allow you to build it somewhat quicker and to focus your discretionary spend on things like drivetrain, wheels/tires, and paint.

[Bren]

One thing to keep in mind is that unless you're doing a donor build, upgrading things later will probably end up costing more money. For example, you buy the "cheap" one now AND the "expensive" one later. Most of the "cheap" parts aren't exactly cheap. Also, not all of the upgradable parts are directly interchangeable, like overflow tanks.

On the other hand, some things are entirely interchangeable and there may be a big difference between the cheap and expensive parts. For example, a cheap pulley kit is like $50 (if I remember right), but the expensive shiny ones can be $500+.

So, I guess my point is, consider which parts you upgrade later carefully and whether it makes more sense to save up for some of them up front.

[Gromit]

I'm working on one but it's just a dream right now and every so often I have to go back and redo it. (ie the 2015 IRS) Wife, Kids, House, and life make it slow building the bank needed but I am on my way. I want to be as accurate as I can be up front. NOT skimp on things that would be double to redo later. and once I start plan on a % fudge factor for need to haves that pop up on the way. I've seen where guys recommend a "vision" sheet and sticking to it. I think that is a good Idea. But in the end I don't think you can pre account for every screw, grommet, connector or drop of what ever that will be needed to finish the build.

[hmoody98]

I am going the donor route. The issue with a complete kit? The extra $7k. I will be able to build the car I want over time, but my issue is the large bulk cost of the kit itself. As a teacher, finding the extra 7k in a single purchase will be tough. I think it'll be easier for me to handle (and yes, possibly more expensive in the long run) to go the donor+base kit route and then a few years down the road do things like replace the front spindles, switch to a 3 link, etc.

[Solman]

Below is a quick rundown of my current build, I started it about a month ago. I got the base kit MK4 and took advantage of the 50/50 sale so I saved about $2500 on options.



Kit car budget 4/30/16

Expenses
96 mystic cobra $2,750.00
headgasket set $150.00
FFR base kit $15,711.00
pickup kit $500.00
cobra R wheels $300.00




parts sold
Hood $210.00
fenders $150.00
Headlights $100.00
Fog lights $50.00
bumpers $300
side skirts $100.00
Dash $300.00
Steering wheel $100.00
seats $400.00
door panels $75.00
sail panel $67.00
shifter boot $60.00
Tail lights $50.00
amp rack $100.00
interior trim $50.00
carpet $50.00
H pipe $75.00
shell $200.00
gauge cluster $115.00
03 cobra wheels $550
cobra R wheels $430.00






Total expenses $19,411.00 Total sold $3,532.00


Total investment $15,879.00