33 -NJ registration

[amasciarelli21]

I have all necessary paper work, but have a few questions i can't seem to get an answers for. The info pack they sent says nothing about roll bars or visors and there is a mention of a low brake pressure warning light (it mentions air brakes) but w/ an adjustable proportioning valve i'm not sure how to hook that up if it is even necessary. The whole wipers and even visors on a roadster still eludes me but i can deal w/ that. They also require a shift indicator for automatics, although i have a Lokar shifter w/ indicator on the knob i 'm not sure if they want something more. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ang

[insurance guy]

I have experience with special inspection of reconstructed vehicles.
They will not let you in to watch
I was fortunate as I had electric conversion 5 years back and inspector was afraid to drive it.
They check that nothing is loose.
Standard stuff like suspension
You need brake light low pressure warning light (no exceptions)
Wiper
All lights and blinkers and hazards, reflectors
Horn
No hanging wires, all brake lines secure
No place for wires to get caught.
No warning lights on
No leaks or drips at all
I had Manuel shift and wanted little decal that showed shift patten
It was five years ago
Will try to remember more
Hope that helps
I went to Asbury Park
I think there is another in Morristown.

[Olli]

Wipers are a must. Brake failure warning light is a must. NOTHING below the frame. For the HR, engine can not be exposed. Lights must have SAE/DOT numbers. I used the Lokar LED gear position display with an AOD.

You need fenders as well.

If you haven't yet submitted your paper work to Trenton, be ready for a wait. Last summer I submitted my paper work early May and it took until late June -early July to get approved. Earliest inspection date was August. Asbury Park.

The Morristown unit has been closed for years.....

Olli

[amasciarelli21]

Hello Oli,
Thanks for response, i believe i have all those items covered i purchased a clamp on style wiper motor and i have a digital shift ind. from lokar also but wasn't sure if i needed to rush on install sounds like i'll have plenty of time. Do you know of any way to install a low brake pressure switch other than through the proportioning valve?
I was also concerned about roll bar i have made a custom waterfall and would rather not use the roll bar( don't really think its design offers much in the dept of safety anyway)
Also was thinking of going to Westfield for inspection but have heard the guys down in Asbury are nicer to deal with.

Ang

[Olli]

A roll bar is not required. For the brake circuit failure light (low pressure means NO pressure i.e. a leak) You need to look at what the o.e.m.'s do. A differential pressure switch in the prop valve such as GM used. I went this route and simply used a disc/disc GM prop valve with the built in differential pressure switch. Another method is a simple level switch in the M/C reservoir. At the time, I couldn't find a suitable one. After I went with the prop valve I am pretty sure that Mike Forte posted that he had reservoir caps with a built in level switch. I tried searching on his web site for it, but no luck. Call Forte and ask. This would be the simplest solution. Please don't try and fool the inspector by just installing a light on the dash not hooked up to anything.

You will be asked to perform the brake balance test on the test pad.

Also, you must trailer/flat bed your car to the inspection site.

Olli

[amasciarelli21]

Thanks again for the info Oli i quess i have some work to do, glad to hear about not needing roll bar.
I just spoke to Mike Forte i'm fowarding pictures to him to determine the best course of action. Oh Mike said to say Hi.

Thanks again
Ang

[Olli]

Look at what I found....pass along to Mike.

Olli



http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...emno=330-12645

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...emno=330-12646

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/Hardwa...0-12646-lg.jpg

[amasciarelli21]

Wow that"s definetly a problem solver =wish i had Wilwood reservoirs i'm running a corvette master w 7" booster, but i'll foward Mike the info.

Ang

[gumbya55]

Hey Olli, Ange had mentioned you have registered a few cars before in NJ (I am currently building a 33 too and we have met). I'm really puzzled about the fenders and some of the other items. Are we certain they are needed? I do not want to run those at all. And what alternatives did you do for wipers, headlights/tailights etc since none of what comes with the FFHR is legal? I'm planning on going to Asbury Park, since I live down there.

[Olli]

The fenders were a must. You need to have a working wiper. You need to have the DOT/SAE markings on all of the lenses. I used standard sealed beam headlights and ran separate front turn indicators that had the correct markings. I don't recall if the FFR supplied taillights had the correct SAE/DOT markings as I did not use them. You will also need to have a brake failure light. If you are building a coupe version you will need a defroster. If you are building a roadster you do not. NOTHING can be below the frame. Yes, the inspector will be looking for that. All lines must be properly secured. The engine can not be exposed. That is what I can think of off the top of my head.

Olli

[gumbya55]

Wow thanks Olli, didn't expect any of that. It's all bad news really. Not planning on running fenders, not running heat or AC/defroster, and running a hardtop without wipers. So bad bad bad. What to do. Body is already on, so even setting up a brake failure light seems impossible. This has really taken the wind out of my sails...

[Olli]

The brake failure light can be easily taken care of if you are using the Wilwood reservoirs by using one of the caps that I linked to a few posts up.

Olli

[gumbya55]

So I gave Asbury Park station a call, talked to a real nice guy Joe B, he's the kit car guy. He was more than willing to answer any questions, and gave a few pointers and things to look out for.

Some things I found out:

• wait until you're about 30 days away from being ready for the inspection, then send in your paperwork to Trenton
• You do need fenders (he was questionable about whether or not the fenders had to be "stationary") but I think he'll pass it with what you have.
• Headlight, Taillights have to say SAE, or DOT. If they don't you can present paperwork that states that they are, from where you bought them from.
• We do need a defroster, however we can run a 12v plugin defroster from WalMart
• Windshield wiper is a must. If you have only 1, it needs to cover 50% of the window.
• Interior does not need to be in the car, but seats and seat belts need to be in and secure
• We do need the low brake pressure sensor
• They will perform a brake "surge" test, however they won't drive the car
• Ground clearance is an issue, we have to jack them up for the test
• Nothing hanging below the frame
• Now the emissions was tricky. If the motor is dated pre-1995 you're good. If it's rebuilt and says the block is from a pre-95 you're good. If it's newer you will need to pass whatever year your engine is emission standards. You may need to add CATS for your test...