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Thread: Jettman's 818S build thread

  1. #1
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    Jettman's 818S build thread

    I have recently purchased a 818 project that was not completed and figure i will start a build thread to track my progress and hopefully get some help when i run into problems. being that i did not disassemble the Subaru and have no past experience with Subaru's the most difficult part may be figuring out where things go and what hardware i need. currently i have a rolling chassis and a motor that has been broken down to the short block. i have rebuild heads direct from a local dealer that need to be installed with all new gaskets. the timing belt is what currently has me a bit nervous re-assembling the motor. water pump has been replaced but i believe the oil pump has 150k miles not sure if the oil pump should be replaced as well. I plan to do a mild fun street car and may try autox out if i can find the time. upgrades for now are simple with an AWIC right away while i have easy access running the water lines and then i will build the kit as is ad upgrade when the car is complete as i can never stop working on my projects.

    This will be my first build thread so feel free to give me any tips on keeping up with my thread as well as assembling the 818. i have worked on jeeps in the past building offroad wheeling vehicles and have two 88 Fiero gt's that have been my projects but they may be sold to fund this build.

    So far i have started working on the wiring and deleted ABS, Cruise, power windows and locks all trunk lighting, DRL's except the black relay as i have heard some issues with lights not working. still need to locate the actual engine harness.

    i will add some pictures soon and hopefully my progress along the way.

  2. #2
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    1 - Welcome! Where are you located?
    2 - Yes, definitely replace the oil pump if it has 150k on it and the motor is already partially broken down.
    3 - Download the factory remain manual from http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manual/
    4 - This site is great for questions. Post and you'll likely get a very fast answer. Pics help.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Welcome to the show!
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

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    Im am located in Tyngsboro MA and the donor car was a 03 wrx that i believe was a sedan not a wagon. I have some rimst that came with one of my fieros that should work on the 818

    Falken RT-5 18x8.5 OS 35 and 17x7.5 OS 42 any idea on tire size i can run on the rear would be nice id like as wide as possible for the rear and 225 or 235 in the front. was looking at ebay rear trailing arms that look similar to VCP arms but cheaper.

    will get a new oil pump this week as i hope to start re-assembling the motor next. the car is currently at my dads house in his garage so i am working with the motor and wiring harness at my house to avoid driving back and forth constantly. the wire harness is to a point where i don't want to cut any more until i can lay it out in the car and test some things like the lights. I am familiar with electronics and work for a high end speaker manufacturer so i am particular about how i want the harness to look when complete but also on a budget.

    will need to do a little research on how to post pictures
    http://www.fkwheels.com/wheels/rt-5
    Last edited by jettman; 05-18-2016 at 03:17 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Welcome to the madness! Many of us have found this thread to be very useful in dieting the donor harnesses:

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...h-Auto-AC-HVAC
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  6. #6
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    Check my build thread for one way of doing a wiring harness.

    Pictures - many ways but easiest IMHO is to create an account on imgur.com and upload photos there. Can do it right from your phone using their app. Then look at your pics on imgur's website and it will have links you can copy and paste into your post to have the image show up. Very fast too.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Pictures - many ways but easiest IMHO is to create an account on imgur.com and upload photos there.
    I use Imgur, too. Good service, fast, and easy to manage your photos. Much faster and better than using Factory Five Forums photo tools.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  8. #8
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    Here is the motors current state.



  9. #9
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Hey welcome!

    What chassis # you got?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  10. #10
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    Chassis 105

  11. #11
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    I like making things as simple as possible so I am thinking about removing the oil cooler/ heat exchanger and am curious what others think about this. The engine has a new water pump but thinking about buying a water pump without the outlet for the cooler.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Many of us do remove it. It's not a oil cooler though. It's an oil heater. It allows you to heat the engine oil up to operating temperature much faster so you can romp on it sooner.

    It's suspected that many a built motor has died because guys (on NASIOC) reuse it after their first motor popped. It's virtually impossible to clean it. So if you do use it, just get a new one if you've ever had metal bits floating around in oil.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  13. #13
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    I'm a proponent of removing the oil (not)"cooler" - but I think it depends on your intended use. You live in a colder state, so having the ability to get your oil up to temp may be desirable. Likewise yours looks like it's in good shape on the outside. But like Rasmus says, it's what's on the inside that really matters here!

    Personally, I've removed the (not)cooler and installed an oil filter relocation kit & external cooler in its place, because mine was looking pretty rough after 192K miles and I'm not a fan of having the oil filter in the crook of the exhaust header.

    I blocked off the barb from the water pump for the oil (not)cooler, getting a water pump without that barb would have been nicer, but likewise I've blocked off the coolant loop that goes to the throttle body also... something else to think about

    A word of advise though -it's much easier to remove it when the engine is out of the car. You can do it after installation, but it's more of a PITA.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  14. #14
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    was thinking about using a remote filter and external cooler as well. i removed the throttle body heater on my fiero and was not aware that this had one as well. have not seen the intake assembly when complete. i will need to find the part to block the coolant plug in the block as well as what is involved with removing the throttle body heater. i do not plan to drive the car in the winter and believe it will be fine in the colder temps i will be driving the car in.

  15. #15
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Scargo had a parts list on his build thread for the relocate and cooler. If that doesn't work for you, I'm sure I still have my shopping list somewhere.

    Bypassing the TB coolant line is easy, if I remember it's one of the outlet barbs on the water pump -> TB/heater core -> coolant crossover pipe, and you just loop out the TB/heater core; but you still need the connection to the crossover pipe for proper flow.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  16. #16
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    Slow progress on the engine still doing research and gathering parts. I have gotten the TGV valves deleted and a used set or Perrin V2 fuel rails as well as a Perrin lightweight pulley and Crawford AOS. Been looking over exhaust options and decided against headers and am getting the factory manifolds PNP. I ordered the Grimmspeed crossover pipe as well as the up-pipe. I will be using the factory down pipe with FF parts to start and get the car legal. hoping to start putting the heads back on the motor soon so i can feel like i am making progress.

  17. #17
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    got one of the cylinder heads on today but need two new head bolts before i can put on the other head. need to invest in a new torque wrench but not sure which one to get. The two i have work but i don't feel there as accurate as id like. hoping the parts department will be working tomorrow the 4th so i can get both heads fully installed and get the oil pan ready to go on as well. still debating on ordering the killer b pickup.

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