Coyote Dry Sump oiling system

[johngeorge]

When driven hard on a racetrack, a FFR Challenge car can pull 1.8-2G in the turns. A very wise man told me there are 2 ways to fix my issue of oil starvation on track, 1. slow down, don't go so fast, reduce the G's in the turns (no way I can do that!) or 2. install dry sump!! A Dry sump oiling system will ensure oil pressure at these high sustained G forces, so here we go..

Aviaid builds a very nice coyote dry sump system, relatively simple to install. Remove stock oil pump, get remote oil filter adapter, install a 3gal tank, bolt up a fancy external cog belt driven oil pump to the side of the block (where AC used to be,) and make a bunch of custom AN lines all over the place.

Picture time.. of the install. Many more pics here: http://www.johngeorgeracing.com/gall...embly-dry-sump

Remove timing chain to gain access to oil stock pump


take out oil pump gear, then put everything back together


Schematic of dry sump oiling system


Now for the shiny new bits.. the new oil pan (there are 3 scavenge stages, each sucking from the side of the pan)

[johngeorge]

Install the pan on the engine along with the bracket and dry sump pump


Put engine in car now and check for clearances


It fits nicely, and looks like I have enough room for the -12AN lines to run from pan to bottom of the scavenge pump


Check for belt alignment, all is well. Notice the new balancer, it came in the Aviaid kit, along with the cogged sprocket to drive the dry sump pump. The coyote balancer requires a long install tool, so make sure to get that ahead of time (autozone does not have one you can borrow)

[johngeorge]

My FFR challenge car is an older mk2/3 mix, so I still had the old passenger foot box (no dropped floor, we kinda 'hacked up' to make the coyote fit) so the always friendly folks at Factory Five Racing hooked me up with some new mk4 footbox aluminum


Back to the scheduled program.. Making -12AN lines, a lot of them.




Figure out where to put this giant tank with 12 quart capacity of oil. The tank is 7.5" round, and about 20" tall.. only place to mount it is in the passenger footbox (sorry passengers, you will have toasty foot heater along for the ride)

[johngeorge]

Mock up dry sump tank, drill a big hole on the top of the footbox and holes for the brackets on the front facing aluminum to help locate where the new weld-in square tube will go.




new 1" square tube cut to fit.. time to weld it in


3 Gallons of hot oil, I don't want that to go anywhere, so made sure its solidly mounted!

[johngeorge]

paint everything, now for some assembly


oil filter re-locater the left side of the pic is from dry sump high pressure, the right side goes and feeds oil to the engine.


feed line is a -10AN


used some small wire loom to act as aluminum edge guard

[johngeorge]

drill an access hole in the floor of the footbox to drain the oil


cut holes for AN 90deg male to female fitting adapters

[johngeorge]

Do some more welding making a bracket for the new ECU location on the side of the passenger footbox, next to the dry sump tank


Make some more -12AN lines - bottom of tank to dry sump high pressure inlet


150deg -12AN fitting on the pump side


Hook the vent up (the valve covers vent into the dry sump tank, then the dry sump tank vents to a catch can put in the middle of the firewall)

[johngeorge]

seal up the footbox


tank in its final location and plumbed up


Prime the system by removing the cog wheel off the dry sump pump, and spin it with a drill. I ended up using a small air powered 3/8 gun with a socket on it. I have oil pressure!! spinning it max what the air powered gun can do (not that fast) it produces around 20psi if oil pressure!

[johngeorge]

Put the belt on the dry sump (take crank belt guide off, place cog belt on dry sump, then push belt onto crank. Put guide back on)

Fill engine with fluids, and.. fire it up!


Oil pressure on the dash is bottom left.

IT WORKS! amazing, just amazing. Lots of work to get to this point.

Thanks Factory Five's Dave Smith, Jim Schenck, and Jon Dean for being who you are, you guys rock!! Factory Five Racing and its community is simply the best! Speaking to that community, thanks Pat McMahon for helping put the engine in, not only is he my main competition on the race track, but he is more then willing to 'help the competition' get back on track!

Now to change front end alignment, throw the street windshield in, and go test it out on the street. That is the plan tomorrow.

[johngeorge]

Success! #48 is back!

[johngeorge]

Dyno tune complete. Here is before and after tuning. 352rwhp/363tq not limited, 343hp/355tq ST2 class limited while running 245/40/17 tires.

[RoadRacer]

Great information, thanks! I ran a dry sump 383 SBC on a road-racing chassis I built - I'm definitely sold on the dry sump idea. Before that I was losing all oil pressure on fast turns..scary stuff. I havent bought a kit yet, but planning a 33 coyote so this is perfect.

[johngeorge]

Thanks! was a fun install and Aviaid dry sump system works great.

Will you track your 33 coyote? cause that would be AWESOME! I'd love to see those racing.

[RoadRacer]

As much as I can! Track time seems harder to find here in US - in UK I was at the local track Goodwood all the time at "general test days". $50 a day for unlimited laps.. ah good times!