Left side trailing arm rubbing tire

[FFRSpec72]

So I was doing the alignment last night and I have 255/35/18 rear tires with the FFR wheels and the stock donor trailing arms, the right side is fine but left side tire is rubbing the trailing arm, can't see why the left side would be different from the right side, I could just use a 12mm (or so) spacer to solve the problem but I would rather find out why the 2 sides are different, any thoughts ?

[Frank818]

Same problem here, rear right rubbing, I can get it about 3mm (less than 1/8) clearance but I need more for inspection.

I have 265/35/18 35offset.

No real solution yet, although if you can live with 3mm clearance I can tell how I made it.

[Kurk818]

Are the lengths of the lateral links the same for both sides center to center?

[FFRSpec72]

Are the lengths of the lateral links the same for both sides center to center?

Yes, made sure of that when we started, I'm using the White Line Lateral links and I started out with 15 1/4 inch lengths from center bolt to center bolt on the lateral links

[Frank818]

I started with smallest lenghts possible of all lateral links, no idea if they were same lenghts to start with. I needed to adjust the left side only to get my correct toe. The right side I needed to push out both links (extend them) by at least 1in. But that doesn't help too much as I have then to extend the camber link and not get 4.1-deg negative like I found out. Then I get out of threads on that link and back off on the lateral links.

I think extending the trailing arm itself helps, but then you push your wheel backwards, not centered in wheel well, risk rubbing on rear of fender.

[FFRSpec72]

I started with smallest lenghts possible of all lateral links, no idea if they were same lenghts to start with. I needed to adjust the left side only to get my correct toe. The right side I needed to push out both links (extend them) by at least 1in. But that doesn't help too much as I have then to extend the camber link and not get 4.1-deg negative like I found out. Then I get out of threads on that link and back off on the lateral links.

I think extending the trailing arm itself helps, but then you push your wheel backwards, not centered in wheel well, risk rubbing on rear of fender.

I have the stock trailing arms so they are non adjustable. I sure hope the frame is not wacked on the driver side that is causing this issue

[Frank818]

I have the stock trailing arms so they are non adjustable. I sure hope the frame is not wacked on the driver side that is causing this issue

That means the trailing arms (OEM or not) aren't the cause. I too thought of frame differences, since you don't have the same lateral links AND trailing arms as I do but we both have the same issue, I too hope it's not the frame!

[FFRSpec72]

One thing I have to check when I get home is that both lateral links are bolted into the upper hole on both sides

[Frank818]

Lower holes for me and they are both.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My chassis #21 &#22 is the same clearance distance on both sides of the car.
Is it possible that when you aligned the back wheels, the chassis wasn't straight with your alignment tools.

wheel_alignment_toe.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

My chassis #21 &#22 is the same clearance distance on both sides of the car.
Is it possible that when you aligned the back wheels, the chassis wasn't straight with your alignment tools.

wheel_alignment_toe.jpg

The jig we used attaches to the frame and is centered with the frame

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Yes, made sure of that when we started, I'm using the White Line Lateral links and I started out with 15 1/4 inch lengths from center bolt to center bolt on the lateral links

Jim said that the leteral links were 15.75 ( I have not measured myself.) If yours are 15.25, then they might be for a wagon.
Bob

Hear is jims quote.
Our uppers are right at 9.5 inches, I used the factory arms as jigs to set the length of our lower lateral arms (about 15-3/4) then adjusted the toe with the rear one from there. You want the upper link to be a good bit shorter than the lowers so the suspension gains negative camber in travel.

[longislandwrx]

also check that your spacers are all in the same spots.

[FFRSpec72]

also check that your spacers are all in the same spots.

I will check tonight but I don't think the lateral links have any spacers.

[FFRSpec72]

Jim said that the leteral links were 15.75 ( I have not measured myself.) If yours are 15.25, then they might be for a wagon.
Bob

Hear is jims quote.
Our uppers are right at 9.5 inches, I used the factory arms as jigs to set the length of our lower lateral arms (about 15-3/4) then adjusted the toe with the rear one from there. You want the upper link to be a good bit shorter than the lowers so the suspension gains negative camber in travel.

So I have adjustable White Line Lateral Links, I started them each (for and aft) at 15.25" center bolt hole to center bolt hole, I did a quick check this morning and after adjusting the camber I was at about 16.25" on each lateral link center bolt hole to center bolt hole. The right side trailing arm does not rub the tire at that length but the left side tire does rub the lateral link.

So something is off, I can lengthen both sides (I have about an other 1" I can extend the lateral links w/o getting into any length issues) but would like to find the cause of this issue

[Frank818]

Oh crap I misread I thought you meant your RIGHT side tire was rubbing. Then it may not be a frame issue (phew) as it's my RIGHT side tire and not LEFT that is rubbing.

I will measure my lateral links and compare with yours.

[redfogo]

Are you sure one of the stock trailing arms isn't tweaked in any way? Not that its much help but I am running these if you do want to upgrade. I have a 33offset wheel and same tire size as you with no rub.

[FFRSpec72]

Are you sure one of the stock trailing arms isn't tweaked in any way? Not that its much help but I am running these if you do want to upgrade. I have a 33offset wheel and same tire size as you with no rub.

That is a possibility but don't know what would have caused the arm to be tweaked (what kind of hit/accident)

[redfogo]

I'm sure with a good enough pot hole or just the load of the car over time could tweak them a bit.

[Frank818]

My arms are the VCP modified version of the Gospeed's. To give more clearance. Maybe Wayne welded the U bracket 2-3mm off on one arm? I'd doubt cuz Wayne never makes a mistake, but in theory it's possible.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm sure with a good enough pot hole or just the load of the car over time could tweak them a bit.

So in the picture the arms look fixed length but the add says they are adjustable, so which is it ? Also this may also save me another 2-3 lbs over the stock steel ones

[Hindsight]

The adjustable arms are adjustable at the front where they bolt to the frame. They have a large rod-end joint there that can be adjusted in or out on threads. Not sure what pic you are looking at, but like Frank said, I think what Wayne does is cut off the ear tabs at the other end of the trailing arm, then move then out some and re-weld back in place.

Is the rub on the LOWER trailing arm or the upper trailing link (and when I say upper, I mean the one that attaches to the firewall)?

[FFRSpec72]

The adjustable arms are adjustable at the front where they bolt to the frame. They have a large rod-end joint there that can be adjusted in or out on threads. Not sure what pic you are looking at, but like Frank said, I think what Wayne does is cut off the ear tabs at the other end of the trailing arm, then move then out some and re-weld back in place.

Is the rub on the LOWER trailing arm or the upper trailing link (and when I say upper, I mean the one that attaches to the firewall)?

Lower, as the upper has an inch or so clearance, the left side lower rubs the tire, the right side lower has about 1/2" or so clearance

[Hindsight]

Measure the mounting ears to the outer edge of the flange they mount to, on the back of each trailing arm and see if there is a difference.

[redfogo]

So in the picture the arms look fixed length but the add says they are adjustable, so which is it ? Also this may also save me another 2-3 lbs over the stock steel ones

They are non adjustable. I really like them nice quality, and I also wanted non adjustable arms. Best of all they are cheaper then godspeed, and don't require any re-welding to clear wheels. I did have to modify the mounting cap/shims they came with because of how thick they were. Here is a link to my site and the mod I had to do http://redfogo.com/index.php/rear-suspension/

[Frank818]

Yes Wayne cuts the ear on the spindle side and rewelds it to give more clearance.
My arms are adjustable and need to be in order to center the wheels inside the fender cuz I won't respect exactly FFR's measurements on the body installation.

On the frame end, there are some spacers on each sides of the ball joint. One is smaller and is fitted inside the engine bay. I could cut that spacer, push the joint further in and use washers to extend the outer spacer. I have to check if that could give me more clearance.

Possibly if your arms have spacers too (Tony) it would be a valid solution.

[FFRSpec72]

Measure the mounting ears to the outer edge of the flange they mount to, on the back of each trailing arm and see if there is a difference.

No difference that I can measure, maybe a 1/16 "

[FFRSpec72]

Anyone have a measurement on the length of the forward link (upper trailing link) as maybe that is off, I know that I'm about a 1/2" shorter on the left side for the forward link (upper trailing link) as I assume this control the angle of the rear spindle.

[K3LAG]

Check to see if your knuckles are bent. The ear that the brackets are attached to was bent on one of mine and it completely threw that side off. Ended up getting a new knuckle from the junk yard. It kind of stunk because I had already put new bearings in the original knuckle.

Larry

[Hindsight]

Anyone have a measurement on the length of the forward link (upper trailing link) as maybe that is off, I know that I'm about a 1/2" shorter on the left side for the forward link (upper trailing link) as I assume this control the angle of the rear spindle.

Tony, I checked and my uppers are 18" center to center. The upper link sets the alignment of the two lower transverse links. You use that upper link to ensure the lowers are parallel or you will get big toe changes as the suspension moves over bumps.

[FFRSpec72]

So I stared from scratch and made sure the 2 rear lateral links were parallel , and then everything else fell into place, so all is well, no more issues, I have clearance., thanks everyone !i

[Frank818]

That was an easy fix.
Did not work for me, there's something else, I'll look into it.