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Thread: Still fuel leak

  1. #1
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    Still fuel leak

    I have the orig. fuel tank in my ser. #168 818S. Was having fuel leakage problem, so dismounted the seats, firewall etc. I swapped out the FFR supplied square O-rings for some 229 N90 Buna round rings and thought all was well until I completely filled the tank. I again have fuel seepage and smell. I am registered for my first track day next week. I don't know if I should cancel, pull out the seats etc. again and do something different or just take a chance on leakage. Is there any hope for this original tank setup, or should I appeal to FFR or Boyd for something better? This orig. tank seems a really poor design with the fill down low and the fuel level sensor also below the top of the tank.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Buzz Skyline's Avatar
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    I had the same problem. Switching o-rings didn't help. I ended up filling the top of the covers with gas resistant RTV from advance auto. I forget which type it was, but I can try to find the old tube when I get home. It was grey in color and fluid enough that it flowed in around the o-ring (with the tank and all connections fully assembled). After a few hours, it hardened up and sealed everything.

    The nice thing was I just needed enough space to reach behind the firewall to flow it in without even removing the fuel lines or anything.

    After 2 months on the road at a wide range of temps and driving conditions, and filling the tank to the top multiple times, no leaks.
    Last edited by Buzz Skyline; 06-02-2016 at 10:32 AM.

  3. #3
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    So you didn't dismount the fuel level sensor apparatus or the pump? You just squeezed the sealant around the mounted fittings? Also, did the surfaces have to be dry of fuel?
    Last edited by tmoretta; 06-02-2016 at 12:51 PM. Reason: change

  4. #4
    Senior Member Buzz Skyline's Avatar
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    Yep, I just made a puddle of the stuff around the mounted fittings. I had wiped the fuel away as best I could, but it certainly wasn't perfectly clean or dry.
    Last edited by Buzz Skyline; 06-13-2016 at 03:26 AM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Buzz Skyline's Avatar
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    I used Permatex #29132 gasket maker.

    http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-29132.../dp/B000HBGHKE

    I'll try to take a picture if you need it, but all you have to do is squeeze in enough to fill the whole top area of the fitting.

  6. #6
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    Try giving the tabs that hold the sensor and pump a whack with a drift and hammer. That plus the O rings worked for me.

  7. #7
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    If you really want a permanent fix get the Boyd tank, IMO.

  8. #8
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    After reading about the shortcomings of the FFR tank, I bought a Boyd tank. I can sell you my brand new stock FFR tank if you need it. Cheap, of course. Pm me if interested.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Buzz Skyline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idf View Post
    Try giving the tabs that hold the sensor and pump a whack with a drift and hammer. That plus the O rings worked for me.
    I tried that. It didn't work for me. The sealing surfaces and ring are just too crappy.

    The Permatex solution is much cheaper (and much, much, much quicker and easier) than pulling an otherwise fine tank out of a built car.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DodgyTim's Avatar
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    I got my early tank to seal by using the round Buna orings and wet and dry paper to smooth the mounting surface. There was a heap of paint there and I was worried it would soften from contact with the fuel.
    I also used a smear of sealant when I assembled it

    I pressure tested it before installation ( just lung pressure, a kids party ballon as the reservoir, and soapy water to check for leaks)
    Pressure testing shows you exactly where the leak is and gives some confidence before replacing the firewall

  11. #11
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    the fumes on my old tank caught the car on fire and did 12k worth of damage I went with the new tank kit from factory five

  12. #12
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Send it back to FFR- it is a safety issue. They have to fix it.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  13. #13
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Hey Chad's here!

    Tom about the leaks, I currently don't have any after a few weeks with 10gals in, but it did smell very slightly. I have sealant on the level sensor already, I put some more around the vents and fuel pump and now no smell. I use Permatex too but a different one. I am using it in many places for coolant, oil and fuel.

    Obviously may not be the most perfect solution if you get more leaks after time, but the price and time is nothing compared to changing for Boyd. I decided to take the risk and test with sealant. At least I don't have liquid leaks anywhere and just did have very small fumes, much much much less than if I open up the filler cap. Many people wouldn't smell the fumes, I did cuz I knew that fuel smell and that it wasn't my usual garage smell.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #14
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    Hey guys. Lots of talk about the fuel tank. I just got my kit in delivered in March. Is my tank ok or should I replace it with a Boyd tank?

  15. #15
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    if you have the tank with the oval shape opening for the sending unit you should be fine

  16. #16
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    I did, after all, remove the seats and firewall, dismount the fuel level sender and pump, replace the O-rings, and use the Permatex fuel resistant Motoseal. After re-filling the tank - no leaks. Fingers crossed.

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