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Thread: Toms 33

  1. #41
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    Has anyone had problems with the driveline bolts to 2016 IRS, i have some play?

  2. #42
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    Had drive-line cut & balanced and is in.toms 33004.JPG
    Did not find pulley for new alternator so i welded up clutched pulley.toms 33005.JPGtoms 33003.JPG
    Put in some time and got all steering joints close to 30 degrees.toms 33006.JPGtoms 33007.JPGtoms 33008.JPG
    Did not like FFR bearing holder so made one. toms 33007.JPG
    And did not like the the end of steering rack shaft, so cut off the end and ground flat place for set screw.toms 33002.JPGtoms 33000.JPG
    All steering shaft parts have drilled part holes for set screws.toms 33000.JPG
    Last edited by 1932; 10-30-2016 at 02:49 PM.

  3. #43
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    Did not want to buy wheels and tires till i have body and fenders on. With all on and set i can measure for front and back spacing and tire size. So i put this together.IMG_6963.JPGIMG_6965.JPGIMG_6967.JPG

  4. #44
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    Body on and bolted. Now on to the hood scoop!DPP_330001.JPGDPP_330002.JPGDPP_330003.JPG

  5. Likes Joel liked this post
  6. #45
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    Coming along very nice.

  7. #46
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    Felt like backing up, but needed to take apart to move forward. Have to undo a lot of parts to get engine out of the way. Did some fiberglass work, mixed up to much and more hardenerIMG_6981.JPGIMG_6995.JPGIMG_7001.JPGIMG_7003.JPG than needed , but it is on the cold side.

  8. #47
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    First time with foam, yes would have been better to mask first. Did mask after first overflow. IMG_7010.JPGIMG_7012.JPGIMG_7013.JPGIMG_7015.JPGIMG_7016.JPGIMG_7018.JPG

  9. #48
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    Looks like a cool car in the works. Keep those pictures coming.

  10. #49
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    The hood was out to far at back, so cut and glassed. Working on form for scoop, will probably glass ofer this.IMG_7019.JPGIMG_7021.JPGIMG_7022.JPGIMG_7023.JPGIMG_7024.JPGIMG_7039.JPGIMG_7042.JPGIMG_7044.JPG

  11. #50
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  12. #51
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    Those blue valve covers look good.

  13. #52
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    Thinking about putting a DOM tube from middle of roll bar over and down to middle of dash. Will put to firewall frame with bolt together at dash .
    How much bolt at dash?
    What do you think about this?

  14. #53
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    Doors work and latch, top of DS door built up. Hood and side panels fit. Doors, hood and side panels good ruff gaped. Working on top!IMG_7063.JPGIMG_7066.JPG

  15. #54
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    Tom, when aligning the grill, hood, and side panels, did you use the nose cone or hood to set the initial rake of the grill? I am at that stage and trying to figure out how much I should trim vs adjust the grill. Just looking for your advice/thoughts.

  16. #55
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    I put the grill group ( with a Mike Everson fan shroud ) together and put it on car. There is not much room for adjustment, then fit sides and hood to that. The back bottom of side panel is set so off that. Then Hood sides need to be cut (on mine i cut both sides the same then had to build up the left side). Work on all of them a little at a time( it is easier to cut more times than put back on). I have not done the cone yet, but will cut it in two to fit. Hope this helps!
    I have AC so the condenser moves the hole group closer to shocks.
    Last edited by 1932; 03-13-2017 at 12:53 PM.

  17. #56
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    Working on getting the body and top ready for permanent attachment. IMG_7071.JPGIMG_7072.JPGIMG_7074.JPGIMG_7075.JPGIMG_7079.JPG
    Will put two pound foam in top, little at a time! Hope holes are big enough to let any extra foam out.
    I am going to bolt, glue and then fiberglass the top on. I do things a little different some times, so if anyone has comments let them come.

  18. #57
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    I plan to attach my coupe top permanent also but haven't a clue how I'm going to do that yet. Hard to see in the photo but what adhesive are you using to "glue" the top on? Also, why the foam and where exactly are you putting it?

  19. #58
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    Hi Naz
    The local paint and body supply store said use MAXIM - multi panel by evercoat. It has 40 to 50 min working time, so i will get my son to help move and bolt top on with glue on. I am using all evercoat products up to main paint.
    The foam 2 lb, 2 part. I am putting it in the space between the two sides of top for insulation both heat and noise. Need to be very careful because it gets 30 times bigger. i have very little experience with this so only little at a time.

  20. #59
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    Thanks 1932, I'll be interested in how this works for you. I'm a long ways from doing mine.

  21. #60

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    Thanks, watching the foam use and attaching the roof with interest!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  22. #61
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    I do not know how people work on these cars with the tin work on, i do not bend very good!
    I want to get all the panels and parts that bolt to body on so i can work on hood, trunk, doors fit. After the top will go back to side panels, will post pics of my idea on that with no bolts showing.

  23. #62
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    Did the foam in topIMG_7081.JPGIMG_7082.JPGIMG_7084.JPGIMG_7085.JPG
    Came out pretty good.

  24. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthTedious View Post
    Tom, when aligning the grill, hood, and side panels, did you use the nose cone or hood to set the initial rake of the grill? I am at that stage and trying to figure out how much I should trim vs adjust the grill. Just looking for your advice/thoughts.
    I got the dimension from Jim S. at FF because I'm waiting on the steel chin for my glass body car. The (opening) down the center line of the hood should be 43"
    I leveled the cowl then fit the hood first and do the hood sides last.
    HTH
    DB 7L Hemi33

  25. #64
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    OK ! What are you doing with the window openings, as in beveling- rounding or how to make look good from inside??

  26. #65
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    Well i went and cut out all the extra body in the windows, front and back so i use all the window glass!
    Other cut i want to do is work out the side so that the window seal goes up to the body.IMG_7105.JPGIMG_7106.JPGIMG_7104.JPGIMG_7099.JPGIMG_7096.JPG

  27. #66
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    With all that glass you'll need to add a sun visor!! Looks great Tom.

  28. #67
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    This is the way i marked around windowsIMG_7118.JPGIMG_7119.JPG
    The fit and look i wantIMG_7107.JPGIMG_7108.JPGIMG_7120.JPG
    The door window lip is to wide for the window seal that came with kit!IMG_7111.JPGIMG_7116.JPG
    Any ideas on side window seal? I will look for seal that fits wider lip, or as last may need glue

    Mcmaster-Carr
    weather stripping
    bulb seal
    looks like something should work and for trunk to!
    Or not!
    Last edited by 1932; 03-20-2017 at 06:18 PM.

  29. #68
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    The top is on and will not be off anymore!IMG_7122.JPGIMG_7123.JPGIMG_7124.JPG
    Used both tubs of panel adhesiveIMG_7125.JPGIMG_7128.JPG
    And bolts
    Last edited by 1932; 03-20-2017 at 06:25 PM.

  30. #69
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    Sanded panel adhesive with 40 grit, then put three layers of fiberglass on that. IMG_7131.JPGIMG_7133.JPGIMG_7134.JPGIMG_7136.JPGIMG_7137.JPGIMG_7146.JPGIMG_7154.JPG

  31. #70
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    Wow! you sure are doing a lot of body work. Look fwd to seeing how it all works out

    David

  32. #71
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  33. #72
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    Did this to side panels - on back at mid panel it stuck out and at front mid panel it needed to come out.
    IMG_7183.JPGIMG_7184.JPGIMG_7185.JPGIMG_7187.JPGIMG_7188.JPG

  34. #73
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    Hood is good, work on hinges and pins. The nose cone was hard to fit, cut & grind, will do some glass work and bolt on. Had to put finder up and see how it looked-good!IMG_7195.JPGIMG_7200.JPGIMG_7201.JPGIMG_7205.JPGIMG_7206.JPGIMG_7211.JPG

  35. #74
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    What length did you cut your drive shaft to? About to do the same to my build.

  36. #75
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    I moved the engine in my build so drive shaft would not be the same.

  37. #76
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    Drive shaft- midcap to midcap 25 3/8

  38. #77
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  39. #78
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    I hope everyone has as much fun with the hood!IMG_7274.JPGIMG_7275.JPGIMG_7279.JPGIMG_7280.JPGIMG_7288.JPGIMG_7289.JPGIMG_7290.JPGIMG_7294.JPG
    Used 1/4 inch stainless bolts for the pins, and moved strut down one inch.
    Working on fenders and boardsIMG_7296.JPGIMG_7298.JPG
    Fenders from Dan and they fit over the stile line at bottom so are same as fram. but need to make a half round to go in side of bottom stile line for back up.

  40. #79
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    Had to add 1 1/4 to ps board to get front to come out right.IMG_7301.JPGIMG_7302.JPG
    Will do bottom next.

  41. #80
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    PermanenT Top

    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    I put the grill group ( with a Mike Everson fan shroud ) together and put it on car. There is not much room for adjustment, then fit sides and hood to that. The back bottom of side panel is set so off that. Then Hood sides need to be cut (on mine i cut both sides the same then had to build up the left side). Work on all of them a little at a time( it is easier to cut more times than put back on). I have not done the cone yet, but will cut it in two to fit. Hope this helps!
    I have AC so the condenser moves the hole group closer to shocks.
    Im losing sleep because I think the FF33 is best looking car but non permanent roof worries me.
    Do i buy a FF33 or a traditional 33/34 roller.
    I want it to look right. I know I can build car, my body guy says permanent roof mounting is no trouble..Please keep pics and info
    coming.
    What are you gonna do about waterfall.and upholstery. Im thinking maybe modifying waterfall to match inside door look and having upholstery shop do iy up and also upholster a headliner too..Are you gonna run wipers.
    I think I could use late jeep wiper set up..Lol wipers can b done even with ac and heat.. its top that worries me.
    So keep info coming ,,thanks .
    Last edited by 11340dart; 04-23-2017 at 06:40 PM.

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