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Thread: Toms 33

  1. #121
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    Setup and looks like need to ad 4&1/2 inches to med or front of axle pipe. Good news i have the front pipes that had the ends on backward to use for pipe.

  2. #122
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    Fixed both o2 sensor and exhaust, still need to put on hangers.IMG_7450.JPGIMG_7453.JPGIMG_7455.JPGIMG_7459.JPGIMG_7461.JPGIMG_7463.JPGIMG_7464.JPGIMG_7466.JPG
    Added 4 inches to DS and 4&1/2 to PS on pipes.

  3. #123
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    I had to cut and weld PS pipe because i put the extinction in the back pipe and the clamp hit the frame. So if you do this put both extinctions in pipes out of muffler. IMG_7468.JPGIMG_7469.JPG

  4. #124
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    Clutch and brakes bled. Exhaust is in and done, was a lot more work than expected. And built driveline protection.IMG_7473.JPGIMG_7474.JPGIMG_7475.JPGIMG_7477.JPGIMG_7478.JPGIMG_7479.JPGIMG_7482.JPGIMG_7484.JPGIMG_7486.JPG
    The tuff shed will be hot rod new home!

  5. #125
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    Heat shield over mufflers. MAF housing intake, the elbow needs work to match throttle body.IMG_7487.JPGIMG_7490.JPGIMG_7492.JPGIMG_7495.JPGIMG_7496.JPG

  6. #126
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    FFR sent me the wrong brackets for evaporator but have front hose fit. Made new bracket for drier. Moved top hose pipe on radiator so hose will go around intake. Worked on oil filter-cooler-heater remote. On track shipping from summit said they put parts on porch.
    , but no parts, The driver was to come show me the place they put parts, never showed up!! Called service more times and they said could not get driver to answer!! and have had bad people on credit card, O fun!IMG_7500.JPGIMG_7503.JPGIMG_7510.JPGIMG_7513.JPGIMG_7515.JPG

  7. #127
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    Worked on intake and it is comeing alongIMG_7520.JPGIMG_7521.JPGIMG_7523.JPGIMG_7525.JPGIMG_7527.JPGIMG_7528.JPGIMG_7529.JPG
    This was a cast aluminum piece for turbo, only short 5" bend i could find. But it works better than i thought.
    Last edited by 1932; 07-19-2017 at 01:09 AM.

  8. #128
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    Intake on, just need to make bracket for mass air housing.IMG_7531.JPGIMG_7533.JPGIMG_7539.JPGIMG_7542.JPGIMG_7545.JPG

  9. #129
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    Tom, Forgive my ignorance but why put the foam in the hard top? Love your build and will continue to follow.

  10. #130
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    BigB, i foamed the top to help with insulation for heat and noise. I was concerned about the top having a drumming or noise maker.

  11. #131
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    Got the oil filter- heater-cooler done and oil hoses on. Just need to put tees in heater lines water will split between heater-when on- and oil, all water to oil cooler- heater otherwise.IMG_7547.JPGIMG_7550.JPGIMG_7557.JPGIMG_7558.JPGIMG_7560.JPGIMG_7561.JPG

  12. #132
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    I have the IRS as well, How did you route your EBrake lines? I have to pull mine to the limit just to get them in, wondering if there is a better way?

  13. #133
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    Yes the cables are very tight as manual, i went under don't know if better but the way i went.
    Put some clear tubing over at places i tied to parts.
    Cable end would not fit in to holder with wilwood brakes,filed this out with round file.
    BigB - pics for youIMG_7564.JPGIMG_7565.JPGIMG_7566.JPGIMG_7567.JPGIMG_7568.JPG

  14. #134
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    Under looks a hell of a lot better than what the instructions say. Thnak you for the pics and Ideas.

  15. #135
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    Built a brace for the mass air flow housing, not welded on motor so it was some time to get ears on in the right place!IMG_7569.JPGIMG_7571.JPGIMG_7572.JPGIMG_7573.JPGIMG_7574.JPGIMG_7575.JPGIMG_7578.JPG
    PCV lines on, in the same place ford uses and same lines. IMG_7579.JPGIMG_7581.JPGIMG_7583.JPG
    Vacuum line to fuel regulator on.

  16. #136
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    Made a heat shield for starterIMG_7588.JPGIMG_7590.JPGIMG_7591.JPGIMG_7592.JPGIMG_7598.JPG
    I like to get metal out of scrap pile and turn it into a part, but would be much faster to order part and bolt on.
    Found some brass parts(sharkbite plumbing ends) to make water in and out for the oil heater-cooler and heater, engine temp water to oil and flow is always moving to cool heads.Don't need bypass heater valve.IMG_7594.JPGIMG_7596.JPGIMG_7597.JPG

  17. #137
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    Got all the AC hoses crimped and most on.IMG_7599.JPGIMG_7600.JPG
    Put in floor and trans tunnel, and yes now i have to fab top of tunnel!IMG_7601.JPGIMG_7602.JPGIMG_7603.JPGIMG_7604.JPGIMG_7605.JPG If you look at the light spots, had to put small washer on both sides of pall on parking brake.

  18. #138
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    Put two layers of both insulation on fire wall. Built panels to go over insulation where feet will be, and heater& ac hoses go.IMG_7611.JPG
    Made the trans cover out of irrigation pipe, 8" for cover, and 3" for water bottles.IMG_7610.JPGIMG_7616.JPGIMG_7617.JPGIMG_7619.JPGThe way i marke pipeIMG_7614.JPG
    Will split insulation and carpet or what i use at rivet line on trans cover so it can be removed to take out trans with engine.
    I am going to put the cruise control and window switches behind shifter , maybe more, will see.
    Last edited by 1932; 08-16-2017 at 12:59 AM.

  19. #139
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    I like your modified jack stands! Great idea!

  20. #140
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    Worked on place for all but heater-ac (and hope to have it working with on off switch) in same place.IMG_7637.JPGIMG_7638.JPG
    Put the parking brake on different from book, it was to far out in PS and to far forward. Put back bracket under the floor, front on top . Had to make the lower arms one inch longer and back. I think with wilwood parking brake it will be good. If need more leverage i can move hole up.IMG_7622.JPGIMG_7623.JPGIMG_7624.JPG

  21. #141
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    I am going to put the cruise control and window switches behind shifter , maybe more, will see.
    I was told by Ford engineer that cruise control can't be installed on a Coyote crate engine.

    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  22. #142
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    I am going to use a 250-1882 universal cruise with dash pad.
    From The Cruise Control Store.com.

  23. #143
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    I am going to use a 250-1882 universal cruise with dash pad.
    From The Cruise Control Store.com.

    Dang it Tom... You just added another $290.00 to my HR budget.



    Tim
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  24. #144
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    Pics of swaybar that a business is building for 33, not done yet but very close. Will have mine next week!IMG_6853.JPGIMG_6855[1385].JPGIMG_6862[1386].JPG

  25. #145
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    Got pics of the swaybar finished. Will get mine next week!IMG_6866.JPGIMG_6867.JPGIMG_6875.JPGIMG_6876.JPGIMG_6880.JPGIMG_6882.JPG

  26. #146
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    Worked on trans cover and switch panel, need to run some wiring then rivet down. IMG_7640.JPGIMG_7641.JPGIMG_7642.JPGIMG_7643.JPGIMG_7645.JPG

  27. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    Got pics of the swaybar finished. Will get mine next week!IMG_6882.JPG
    That is a great design where it bolts to the chassis,
    Nice and simple, using bolt locations that are already there.
    Wish I would have found those A-arm clamps before I had mine made.

  28. #148
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    As was asked on the other forum, i would like to mount my stock bumper on this as well. When i get sway bar i will mock up and see about that.

  29. #149
    Ol Skool
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    Trans tunnel is looking great!! I think you'll want that E-Brake up there someplace in reach also.

  30. #150
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    Yes i did some work on e-brake to move handle back and over to trans cover. post 140

  31. #151
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    Working on wiring and think i have most in mind the way i want it, now to get it sorted, ford-FFR- and some of mine.
    Got my sway bar today.IMG_7655.JPGIMG_7676.JPG

  32. #152
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    This was the first of second gen sway bar, had three little things to fix so it fit my car. Needed to bevel the inside of main mounts so it would fit over frame. And had to make 1/2 inch spacers for arms out of plate steel.
    Then on the clamps needed to have bigger and longer bolts. went with 1/4 20 grade 8 by 1 1/2.IMG_7663.JPGIMG_7665.JPGIMG_7666.JPGIMG_7672.JPGIMG_7683.JPGIMG_7685.JPGIMG_7688.JPG
    All good now and on!

  33. #153
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    That sway bar is sweet! nice work Tom.

  34. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
    This was the first of second gen sway bar, had three little things to fix so it fit my car. Needed to bevel the inside of main mounts so it would fit over frame. And had to make 1/2 inch spacers for arms out of plate steel.
    Then on the clamps needed to have bigger and longer bolts. went with 1/4 20 grade 8 by 1 1/2.IMG_7663.JPGIMG_7665.JPGIMG_7666.JPGIMG_7672.JPGIMG_7683.JPGIMG_7685.JPGIMG_7688.JPG All good now and on!
    Tom
    Sorry about the bevel needed on the frame tabs, I did that on mine and forgot to convey that to Dan when I shared the tab pattern.
    On mine I had the A-arm clamps made so I could incorporate some Urethane where the bolt passes through that clamp to reduce
    NVH a bit more. Mine are not as elegant as Dan's but it's a full fender car so they mostly hide. I also connected mine to the lower arm
    instead so the dogbones are a bit longer and easier to configure for clearance. BUT, as Dan pointed out his doesn't send load through
    both ball joints like mine does. As usual Dan was a step or 2 ahead of me in the design of this product.
    Dale

  35. #155
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    Dan has top clamps with bigger bolts now. It is a nice unit and i thank you and dan. In my previous life as a small family framer i fixed all of our OLD equipment so fixing things is part of how i think.

  36. #156
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    Dale. How is the sway bar working out? How have you set the ride height to work with bar?
    Thanks
    Tom

  37. #157
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    Tom
    I have cycled the full range of travel with the coil overs removed so I could watch for any rubbing or binding and everything worked fine.
    I have altered my front suspension for a bit higher ride for ground clearance and to allow running taller tires. Along with that I made new
    lower A arms and changed the mounting for all the ball joints. The point was to use early Mustang ball joints that just bolt in and to get
    rid of the upper ball joint that wasn't designed for the primary load to be applied in the direction the FF set-up applies it. The Frame tabs
    and bar width are the same but most everything else on mine is custom and doesn't really cross over to other 33's

    I did make a nifty storage box behind the seats recently and installed seat brackets to both slide and tilt for access to the new box.

    Family issues and the purchase of 7 acres to build our new house and hot rod shop have kept me too busy to work on the 33 much
    lately but I am going to SEMA in a few weeks to see the new 33 truck.
    Dale

  38. #158
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    I have been working on fifteen acres to plant almonds and taking care of wife, so car has been waiting.

  39. #159
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    No fuel for cat so worked on wiring, it would be much better if 33 had its own harness.IMG_7690.JPGIMG_7689.JPG

  40. #160
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    Will be testing wiring so put two gallons of oil into the line to filter to oil engine before turning over. Ford 5/50 full synthetic oil.IMG_7692.JPG

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