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Thread: Best clutch - mainly street use (Coyote & tko 600 combo)

  1. #1
    Senior Member Jester's Avatar
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    Best clutch - mainly street use (Coyote & tko 600 combo)

    Question to Coyote experts - what clutch are you using?

    I have a Coyote - TKO 600 combo with the recommended FRPP Centerforce clutch as per the FFR recommended parts list. I have just under 10k miles and need to replace my clutch (beginning to slip slightly at higher speeds when hitting the throttle). I have checked the cable adjustment and clutch fully engages. I am thinking of change to a stock Ford clutch if possible as I believe it may provide longer life. I was hoping to get 20k mi on my clutch and I am surprised I have to replace so soon - no track time and only the occasional hot launch.

    Has anyone changed a clutch with a Coyote without removing the engine & trans from the car? Or can I change the clutch by loosening the engine mount bolts and tilting the engine / trans to remove the trans & clutch??

    Any suggestions re best clutch to use for my replacement?

    Thx in advance
    Last edited by Jester; 06-12-2016 at 03:48 PM.
    15th Anniversary Edition
    Mk4 - 18 month build (4 hrs every Sat), received Aug 2011, titled & registered May 2013, final in paint Nov 2013 - Ferrari blue
    FRPP Crate Coyote 5.0, tko600, Moser 3 link, manual steering & 13" brakes, upgraded coil overs
    koolmat then dynamat then carpet in cockpit - very solid, no engine heat transfer to cockpit and no road noise

  2. #2

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    I was talking to some one yesterday with the same engine/trans in a mark IV. Yes, you can remove the trans w/o removing the engine. As you would expect, it's a PITA.

    The toughest part is always getting it all lined up so the trans nose will slip in to the bearing. Get a couple of 7/16" x 3" bolts. Cut the heads off, and cut a screwdriver slot in the end. Use these like guide pins to get the trans aligned as you slide it in.

    If the Centerforce clutch is now slipping, I would not step down to a stock clutch. I would step up to a Ram HD. The Ram HD has a slightly heavier pedal than the CF, and will chatter just a little when cold. But it will hold better.
    .boB "Iron Man"
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  3. #3
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    I have the Coyote, TKO500 and the Valeo clutch Mike Forte supplied with the combo. I'm happy with it, no issues, though I only have a little over 1000 miles on it. Why not just pull the engine and tranny? I know its a pain disconnecting everything but then you would have easy access to install the critical components. Just a thought...
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

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  4. #4
    Senior Member Jester's Avatar
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    Thx for the suggestions Bob - I will look into the Ram clutch.

    I believe removing the engine will be much more work than removing the trans etc from below the car.

    Any other suggestions on clutch & pressure plate would be appreciated.

    Thx
    15th Anniversary Edition
    Mk4 - 18 month build (4 hrs every Sat), received Aug 2011, titled & registered May 2013, final in paint Nov 2013 - Ferrari blue
    FRPP Crate Coyote 5.0, tko600, Moser 3 link, manual steering & 13" brakes, upgraded coil overs
    koolmat then dynamat then carpet in cockpit - very solid, no engine heat transfer to cockpit and no road noise

  5. #5
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    I'm using a Centerforce clutch ( M-7560-T46 Clutch Kit ). It was part of the Coyote "recommended" parts list from Factory Five in 2012. I figured if it's good enough for Dave Smiths car then its good enough for this Dave too. After 25000 kilometer I've had NO issues. Its driving a bone stock (easy to shift) TKO600 and my 2 sons have put the car through its paces.
    Last edited by Dave Howard; 06-13-2016 at 03:35 PM.

  6. #6
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    I have a MK4, Coyote, TCCM1899 bellhousing, TKO600 and 3 link rear end.
    I changed my clutch without removing the engine or transmission by sliding the transmission toward the rear as far as it will go.
    Is your transmission tunnel cover removable?

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    Brian
    Last edited by mrpipes; 06-13-2016 at 03:49 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Jester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpipes View Post
    I have a MK4, Coyote, TCCM1899 bellhousing, TKO600 and 3 link rear end.
    I changed my clutch without removing the engine or transmission by sliding the transmission toward the rear as far as it will go.
    Is your transmission tunnel cover removable?

    IMG_2914.JPG

    IMG_2918.JPG

    IMG_2917.JPG

    IMG_2922.JPG

    Brian
    Thx Brian - yes my trans tunnel is removeable - Were the bolts on the bell housing difficult to access - any trick to access them?

    Not sure why I only got ~10k on my clutch - perhaps I did not break in properly or possibly a poor/faulty pressure plate? I assume i need to replace both the disk and pressure plate.

    Thx
    Last edited by Jester; 06-13-2016 at 04:24 PM.
    15th Anniversary Edition
    Mk4 - 18 month build (4 hrs every Sat), received Aug 2011, titled & registered May 2013, final in paint Nov 2013 - Ferrari blue
    FRPP Crate Coyote 5.0, tko600, Moser 3 link, manual steering & 13" brakes, upgraded coil overs
    koolmat then dynamat then carpet in cockpit - very solid, no engine heat transfer to cockpit and no road noise

  8. #8
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    The bellhousing bolts are accessible from top and bottom but turning space is limited.
    The most time consuming part is getting the transmission back into the pilot bearing like Bob said above.

  9. #9
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Finding this thread is quite timely for me. I am finalizing my clutch selection now. I have narrowed it down to three: Ford Racing, McLeod, and Centerforce. Each are the "clear choice" by someone in the know that I trust. Each one seems to have it's supporters and detractors, each claims to be the strongest, the fastest, the most dependable, etc. From what I have been able to read, Centerforce may indeed be the strongest, but it is really expensive relatively speaking, and I read that it may need some minor modification. McLeod may be the smoothest and the lightest clutch weight. Ford Racing seems to be the cost leader. Any other thoughts or considerations that I have missed?
    Jazzman

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  10. #10
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The Ford Racing M-7560-T46 clutch (now calling themselves Ford Performance Parts) is actually a Centerforce dual friction clutch. It's the one recommended by Factory Five in their Coyote installation manual and the one I chose based on that plus forum feedback. It was a straightforward installation with no surprises or mods. I've only go-karted, but it seems fine. From a rating standpoint, certainly up to the performance level I'm planning for the build. I'm pleasantly surprised with the pedal effort. It's noticeably lighter than the McLeod Super StreetPro 75207 clutch in Mk4 #7750. I didn't come across a McLeod clutch for the Coyote when I was looking some months ago. The Centerforce it sounds like you're referring to is their dual disk version. As you said, quite expensive. Almost twice the price of the Ford Racing/Centerforce dual friction version. I guess it's a great setup and can handle a lot of power. Guys give them high marks. Not sure it's needed for a street driven stock Coyote installation though.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-18-2016 at 06:45 AM.
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