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Thread: Warning for extending DBW and Oxygen sensors

  1. #1
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Warning for extending DBW and Oxygen sensors

    Warning: When you extend the wires in the donor harness for the electronic throttle control and the oxygen sensors, and maybe other sensors, watch for the dotted lines in the wiring diagram! I was stupid when I extended the 6 wires for the DBW throttle and didn't notice that the #6 wire was coaxial, meaning there was an outside woven sheath. It looked like a normal 14-guage wire. Later, I had lots of trouble with codes, limp mode and "wallet shrinkage" before I found my mistake. I also know of 2 other guys who fell into the same trap so watch carefully for a dotted line surrounding a wire in the wiring diagram! I think this also applies to the 2 oxygen sensors, crankshaft position sensor and the knock sensor.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    Shielded wire or Shielded twisted Pair wire have a similar sheath as Coaxial wire. Where the former is considerably easier to splice than the later. How did you extend these wires and were they actually Coaxial?

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    You have a couple options on splicing. You could run fresh wire from the ecu to the end you want to connect. Or you could put a joint where you want to splice the new wire to extend the plugs. You could also just solder each wire and run it to length and for the shield wire solder the shield to a wire and bridge the two shields with the wire and wrap with heat shrink.

  4. #4
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Shielded? Shielded pair? Coaxial? I don't know the difference but know that the wire that gave me trouble was wire/insulation/woven wire/insulation. I couldn't find any locally so I had to buy a 50-foot spool online. I used about 6 feet so if any builder needs some PM me and I'll send an envelope.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  5. #5
    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    As fireblade has been through this step, we can assume that the wire is just shielded wire. Coaxial is usually used for high frequency signals, and you can not splice it as described. Instrumentation/Signal wires are covered in either wire mesh or foil to minimize the EMI and RFI induced voltage to the measured signal [Think of Rock and Roll on top of a loud single tone and the shielding tuns the Rock and Roll way down]. If you are replacing the cable, attach the Wire Mesh or Foil to the ground on the ECU termination end. If you are replacing Shielded wire with Shielded Twisted Pair, the second wire gets grounded on both sides [Sensor and ECU].

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    AVCS also useses shielded wire. You can get 4wire shielded security wire from Ace hardware cheap and by the foot if you need to extend them. My understanding any of the doted lines are all shielded cable that most times are grounded right to the ECU.

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    Winner winner chicken dinner

  8. #8
    Moonlight Performance
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    I used guitar hookup wire. It's stranded single core with a braided shield. I added this in as a splice to extend the length of the factory cable. A forum member set me the wire (Pete was that you??). Anyway, I just soldered the wire in and covered it with dual wall heat shrink, then connected the shield wires together and covered that with heat shrink as well. So far so good.

  9. #9
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    Great to know, thanks for the heads-up!

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