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Thread: Hard Top install tips - add yours

  1. #41
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    I have a few questions about install
    How do you secure the aluminum headliner to the top?
    Which way does the angled part of the firewall point?
    Has anyone installed the gas struts? Can you send pics?
    thank you
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  2. #42
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    Buff one side of the headliner than apply uratane windshild adthesif

  3. #43
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Check this thread on the glue used for their dash vinyl .http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ues-whats-best

  4. #44
    Senior Member fastzrex's Avatar
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    Like flynntuna suggested, Weldwood adhesive is the way to go. In my days in aircraft maintenance, paint and interiors, we used this product to hold headliners, carpets, repair wood bar structures, etc. It does not 'let go' under heat like other adhesives do; many a headliner in aircraft (where interior temperatures sitting on the ramp in summertime reach 130 degrees) have stayed attached for more than 10 years when this adhesive is used.

    It is a contact adhesive; apply (with a spray gun or a small paint brush) to both surfaces for bonding (make sure the surfaces are scuffed with a red Scotchbrite and cleaned with MEK) and let dry until just a bit tacky. I recommend two thin coats for best adhesion. It does tend to thicken when left out in a cup; pour just what you need from the larger can into a cup. If it thickens and you just want it to spread easier, thin it with MEK (about 1 part MEK to 10 parts glue). MEK tends to make it set up faster and will also cause the adhesive to get thicker faster setting in a cup. When we have a large project that will be hand applied with a brush (rather than spraying large surfaces) to small pieces, we cover the cup with a cap and the adhesive generally lasts three days before having to thin.

    Weldwood has a strong odor; wear protective gear in well ventilated areas.

    The adhesive is generally not real expensive; in fact other spray adhesives I have tried because I ran out of Weldwood are just as expensive, have poor adhesion properties, and have caused me to replace car headliners within a few months as the adhesive just stopped sticking.


    Weldwood.jpg
    Last edited by fastzrex; 06-06-2017 at 04:01 PM.
    ~ Mark

    818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
    2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
    2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo

  5. #45
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    There is a horizontal gap between the hard top A pillar and the door. Hopefully someone here will come up with a solution that will cover this gap from the outside so wind noise will be reduced and rain will be sealed out. Here's a photo of the inside of the gap on the FFR 818C. I think this doesn't look finished and leaves an opening on the outside, but that's me:
    FFR A pillar gap.JPG

    Anyone have a better way to seal this gap?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  6. #46
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    All coupes are gonna have that gap because the tops meant to be removable and the way the doors swing out from under the top not away from a surface. I think ffr should provide that aluminum piece with the kit. Maybe instead of installing it horizontally it can be bent 90° downward where it meets the dash. It would be cleaner then having the aluminum exposed covering the dash.

    I noticed this last year at the hb show with ffr 818. That's my idea of a solution just haven't implemented it yet. I'll definitely try it prior to paint.

  7. #47
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    07FIREBLADE, I don't get what you mean by "that aluminum piece" or bending it 90 degrees downward. Can you please give more detail?
    I took a couple of photos to better explain the problem, I hope:

    A pillar gap at door.jpg
    When the door is closed there is about a 3/4" gap on the outside, like the photo on the left. When the door is closed wind noise, and likely rain, comes through that gap. When the door is opened, the top of the door card (interior panel) mostly fills the gap. So, I think a seal of some sort is needed that would attach to the top of the door, thus swing with the door to close the gap from the outside when the door is closed. Anybody know what seal I could use?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  8. #48
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Isn't that the gap that is there for using the stock Subaru mirrors? Maybe you can build up the door with fiberglass and filler. Then place a gasket on the inside of that filled area and the door card. Just thinking out loud . Good thing it doesn't rain that much in Scottsdale.

  9. #49
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Good point. The donor mirror fills the gap on a normal by-the-book build.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  10. #50
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    Pete, Factory five filled the gap a bit with a piece of aluminum. That goes over part of the dash. It has the bulb seal on it. They don't provide it with the kit and was a one off item when they built the black coupe a couple of years ago. I saw it at the 2016 HB show. Yes the stock mirrors take up part of the gap with the mount they bolts to the top of the doors. I didn't mention that because I thought it was obvious but forgot you had an early build so you last saw those brackets a few years ago. It would look cleaner if they bent the piece down instead of covering the dash with it.

  11. #51
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    The pic you showed just shows bulb seal. I guess they changed it from last year. It looks a little cleaner bit not much.

  12. #52
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Recently, 2 guys emailed me about how to support the flimsy fiberglass strip on the inside top of the door that remains after cutting the window slot, so I thought I'd add that here. The manual says to add support and it also says to set the window mechanism so that the top edge of the window stops 1/2-inch above the door. I think that is so it doesn't catch on the edge of the slot when it is raised. I made an aluminum piece that supports the fiberglass strip and serves as a guide for the edge of the window so it can be lowered completely, then raised smoothly. . . like "real" cars.

    I bought a 2-inch aluminum angle piece, marked one side every inch, drilled 2 holes per inch, then cut each inch with a saw. The aluminum angle piece is now flexible and, to the uncut side, I applied the fuzzy side of 2-inch Velcro tape. Next, I applied epoxy to the bottom of the flimsy strip and clamped the flexible aluminum piece so that it was flush with the curved inside edge of the window slot. Now the fiberglass strip is strong and the window glass glides easily all the way down and back up.

    inside 3.jpg
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  13. #53
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    your construction techniques are terrific, thanks so much.
    I have read the manual multiple times and little or no mention of adding support. I see many references by others and when I look for those references I do not find mention. I have version 1Q
    Is this the latest version??
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  14. #54
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Alan, I also think the most recent update is 1Q. I thought the manual said to add support, but since you've checked . . . pencil it in. Thanks for the kind words. I think it's fun to invent ways to solve these little puzzles!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  15. #55
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    I have a R version which came with car in March
    this year, chassis 474

  16. #56
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    I used AZPETE's method but installed the aluminum angle before I cut the door. I drilled 3 small holes at each end of the back edge of the door. 2 at each end and one at the 13.5 inch mark 3/8 towards the middle. Put 3 small nails in the holes and used them as stops for the aluminum angle. Clamped the angle and the bend was exactly how I wanted it. Used epoxy and put clams every 2" ( duct tape will not stick to epoxy so each clamp had a duct tape end). Pulled out the nails before the epoxy cured. Cutting the slot was now extremely easy and it was strong. I used the angle as a guide and ran small grinder bit to make the slot 3/4 of an inch.
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  17. #57
    Senior Member fastzrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by insurance guy View Post
    I used AZPETE's method but installed the aluminum angle before I cut the door. I drilled 3 small holes at each end of the back edge of the door. 2 at each end and one at the 13.5 inch mark 3/8 towards the middle. Put 3 small nails in the holes and used them as stops for the aluminum angle. Clamped the angle and the bend was exactly how I wanted it. Used epoxy and put clams every 2" ( duct tape will not stick to epoxy so each clamp had a duct tape end). Pulled out the nails before the epoxy cured. Cutting the slot was now extremely easy and it was strong. I used the angle as a guide and ran small grinder bit to make the slot 3/4 of an inch.
    Great idea as an addition to Pete's construction method. I am not at the door work yet, but have filed this away. Thanks.
    ~ Mark

    818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
    2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
    2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by insurance guy View Post
    I used AZPETE's method but installed the aluminum angle before I cut the door. I drilled 3 small holes at each end of the back edge of the door. 2 at each end and one at the 13.5 inch mark 3/8 towards the middle. Put 3 small nails in the holes and used them as stops for the aluminum angle. Clamped the angle and the bend was exactly how I wanted it. Used epoxy and put clams every 2" ( duct tape will not stick to epoxy so each clamp had a duct tape end). Pulled out the nails before the epoxy cured. Cutting the slot was now extremely easy and it was strong. I used the angle as a guide and ran small grinder bit to make the slot 3/4 of an inch.
    Did you have to notch the aluminum angle like Pete?

  19. #59
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    Thanks for all this info Pete. I was going to wait until winter to put my hardtop on, but i think I will be getting too much sun in the convertible.

  20. #60
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    yes, the notches allow it to bend tot he curved shape of the window. It is very sturdy, I was sitting in the car ( no inner door card on yet) was resting my arm on the door and it did not move at all.
    818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
    First Start 10-17-2015
    First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
    First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
    Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016

  21. #61
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Insurance guy Alan was smart to make the bendable aluminum angle first, then clamp and epoxy it to the door before cutting the window slot. He took my idea and improved upon it so now I'm wondering, "why didn't I think of that?" OTOH, this forum is good because we each build upon other's ideas.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  22. #62
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    Hi: I too found the two sided molding tape by 3M to workwell on many applications but as recommended; really clean the surface first. Capt.Bill

  23. #63
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    to AZPete: I agree with you with regards to folding-up like a pocket knife. My 818 was originally driven in NE so the soft top was a must but always struggled with entry/exit. Now in Florida and much prefer no top and carry a tarp if it showers. Capt. Bill

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Recently, 2 guys emailed me about how to support the flimsy fiberglass strip on the inside top of the door that remains after cutting the window slot, so I thought I'd add that here. The manual says to add support and it also says to set the window mechanism so that the top edge of the window stops 1/2-inch above the door. I think that is so it doesn't catch on the edge of the slot when it is raised. I made an aluminum piece that supports the fiberglass strip and serves as a guide for the edge of the window so it can be lowered completely, then raised smoothly. . . like "real" cars.

    I bought a 2-inch aluminum angle piece, marked one side every inch, drilled 2 holes per inch, then cut each inch with a saw. The aluminum angle piece is now flexible and, to the uncut side, I applied the fuzzy side of 2-inch Velcro tape. Next, I applied epoxy to the bottom of the flimsy strip and clamped the flexible aluminum piece so that it was flush with the curved inside edge of the window slot. Now the fiberglass strip is strong and the window glass glides easily all the way down and back up.

    inside 3.jpg
    Thanks very much for sharing your solution, I just copied your instruction and it's made a huge improvement to the doors.

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