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Thread: Wareaglescott's Coyote build thread - INDEX ADDED TO POST #1

  1. #121
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I got my Ebrake cables in my last backorder shipment. Was excited to get those run and installed but realized I do not have the spacers needed for the Wilwood option so I did not get very far with that project. I do have a question. The build manual indicates to tie wrap the cable to the IRS lower control arm. It does show a picture of the older IRS though. There does not seem to be much spare cable and I would think if it were tied to the suspension the movement might cause unwanted Ebrake activation. Is this an issue? Does everyone tie wrap as recommended?

    Lots of black in this picture so I am pointing at the cable in question.
    The instructions for the 2015 IRS e-brake installation are in the separate 2015 IRS instructions. Maybe there's a newer version of the manual that includes the 2015 IRS, but it's not in mine. Anyway, the 2015 IRS instructions don't show a tie wrap and I didn't use one. Just looked at mine. The cable is fine looped from the attachment at the caliper and over the top of the center section.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  2. #122
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    The instructions for the 2015 IRS e-brake installation are in the separate 2015 IRS instructions. Maybe there's a newer version of the manual that includes the 2015 IRS, but it's not in mine. Anyway, the 2015 IRS instructions don't show a tie wrap and I didn't use one. Just looked at mine. The cable is fine looped from the attachment at the caliper and over the top of the center section.
    Thanks Paul. My build manual has a May 2016 revision date on it. It shows it in there and I was also referencing the 15183 - Ebrake handle instructions from the FFR website. Of course that has a 4/25/14 date on it but still includes the tie wrap instruction. I think I need an instruction manual to tell me what set of instructions to use!!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  3. #123
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    fuel pump/ tank install

    Today I finished installing the heat shield in the drivers side footbox. It seems much easier to do those pieces when you can take them in and out vs after them being permanently installed.

    After that I got to work on mounting the fuel tank. I opted for an in tank pump. I plan to use the fuel lines supplies with the kit. After my initial reading on the subject I ordered a 255 lph pump from Breeze automotive. A couple hours after I ordered I got a call from Mark at Breeze asking what type of motor I was using. I told him Coyote and he recommended a 155 lph pump. He said it was good up to 440hp plus a 10% margin so basically 484 hp. He indicated with the 255 unit I might have trouble getting the fuel pressure low enough. Now I am completely uneducated on this but this gave me cause for concern. He sent me some supporting literature. Only problem was for every article saying a 155 should be used you can find a contradictory source indicating a 255 is the way to go. With the Coyote I expect with the different than stock air intake and ultimately a dyno tune I should be around 450hp. I jut wasn't comfortable depending on the rated 10% margin. So I compromised and ordered the 190lph unit. That will be more than adequate for the power I will have. Honestly I think all 3 would have worked ok but I am not smart enough in this area to now the finer points so I just went with the middle. Here it is ready to go into the tank.


    I also had read about the bigger fuel vent that Breeze offers so I opted for that as well. Went in very easy. Getting the tank into position by myself was a little tricky. Could have used a second set of hands but school has started here and my shop assistant (wife that teaches 7th grade) has been called back to work. It will come back out again but I just wanted to get it in place and all mocked up. I did have to bend the tabs on the tank as instructed to get it in. Also my front passenger side mounting location required a few hits with the hammer to move it forward so it lined up with the tank properly.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  4. #124
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Engine lift plates

    I am in a holding pattern waiting for a few parts to complete some previous tasks. In the meantime I am working on fitting the coyote clutch safety switches to the pedal box.

    My main project today was to fabricate the lifting plates for the coyote. If you can find the new ones they are about $175. I asked around and EdwardB was kind enough to send me templates off of the ones he made. I was able to make those and all in for bolts, washers for shimming and the 1/4 steel plate I am at about $30. I feel like I have been lighting money on fire lately so it was nice to be able to do something on the cheap.

    Here are my supplies:

    The plate is 1/4" thick. The bolts that go through the plates into the block are 14mm x 35mm 10.9 steel hex bolts. The mounting bosses are slightly different in their depth from level so I used a different amount of washers on each bolt to get the plates to sit flat. It is pretty obvious though. The center of the holes are 2.917 inches apart and are drilled with a 9/16 bit. Both plates are 4" wide. The back plate is 7.5" long and the side plate is 4.25" long. The upper bolts holes are not real critical on positioning. I am going to hook the chain up to those and used grade 8 bolts 1/2 inch x 2" with a washer and nut on the back.


    The plate for the back of the engine calls for a bend of 17 degrees 3 inches down from the top. I got it really close to 17 degrees because I was making these away from home at a friends metal shop and did not have the engine there to test fit. There is a plug above the lift point that you need to avoid and that is why you need the bend. 17 degrees works great but after I got home I found it was not to critical and anything in the 15-30 range would have worked just fine. I was thankful to have such wonderful templates to work off of so I only needed one trip to the metal shop to have them done right! Thanks again Paul for the excellent details on these templates.


    This is the lift plate installed on the drivers side of the motor.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

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  6. #125
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    fuel vent filter

    I made the filter for the fuel vent today. I have read on the forum some people complain about a fuel smell in the garage. EdwardB posted in his thread about making a charcoal filter and attaching it to the fuel vent line so I thought that was a good idea.

    I went down to Lowes to get all the supplies and ordered the mounting bracket from summit. All in about $25
    I had purchased the larger tank vent from Breeze so I used the supplied larger hose to hook up to the filter.


    I mounted it just aft of the fuel fill tube.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  7. #126
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Oil pan change

    Next up was the oil pan change. I got a engine cradle as opposed to an engine stand that I could rotate the engine upside down for the change. Just picked it up with the hoist and set it on some wood blocks and it was quite easy to change out. The second bolt on the oil pickup was pretty challenging to get at though. I did let the engine drain for about 3 hours so it was nice not to have oil dripping everywhere when I did this. I think that would have been the only use for an engine stand so I am glad I saved a few dollars on that. The cradle should be nice for assembling the engine accessories and mounting the transmission.


    My pan had the cutout that was supposedly the fix for the issue of the dipstick not going all the way in or reading correctly. I read some others still had issues. I did not want to find out after I mounted it that I had an issue so I went ahead and ground the potential trouble area down. Glad I did that because I unbolted the innards of the pan to be able to clean the metal fragments from my grinding and happened to find a Moroso sticker that had fallen down in there and wedged itself. Very strange! I would have hate to not known that was in there and installed the pan!

    Here it is installed. Looks nice. I reused the oil filter I took off and poured the original oil back in. I measured it closely as it was going back in and it was just over 9 quarts. Will need to get a few more quarts to top it off I guess. I am not sure the total capacity with the new pan. I suspect over 10.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 08-13-2016 at 08:40 AM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  8. #127
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    alternator and power steering pump

    Today I installed the alternator and power steering pump and serpentine belt.
    The alternator went in very nicely. I got the recommended one from the coyote installation instructions. I did have one area of confusion. The kit came with this tensioner and there was one already installed in the spot it was supposed to go in.

    The instructions made no mention of whether or not I was supposed to change it out. I called Ford tech support and they advised to change it out. Don't really know why but I did as recommended. The torque specifications for all the bolts where listed on the instructions. However since this part was not included on the instructions there was also no torque spec listed. I asked Ford tech support on that and they said 18 ft/lbs.

    After that I went to the power steering pump. I ended up painting the brackets with some paint made for engines. I did not want to have bare metal in there. Here is how it looks when complete. I was very happy with the instructions from FFR on this install. Only thing was for the bracket holding the pump the instructions showed a different type of bolt than was provided in the kit.



    I am still waiting on some backordered parts that have me stopped about half way through 5 different projects on the car. I really dislike having things part way done so i am enjoying working on the motor for a few days and completing the tasks I start because I have the needed parts. Tomorrow I plan to work on the transmission side of the motor.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  9. #128
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    clutch and transmission

    Worked on mounting the clutch and transmission today. For a newbie like me I sure would have liked some instructions on how to do all this. Basically referenced youtube videos and a few messages with my build mentor!
    My first issue was the dowels in the flywheel. I had read they are hard to get in so I was pleased when they were already installed on the flywheel.
    The problem was those dowels were to big for my clutch plate. I should add that I ordered all the recommended parts from the coyote instructions to ensure everything was compatible. So I had to get those dowels out and the new ones that came with the clutch put in. Turns out I had to take the flywheel off anyways to get the sandwich plate up behind it. Once the flywheel was off I was able to beat the dowels out with a hammer and punch from behind. I had the new ones in the freezer and they went it with a few hits of the hammer. The dowels were in the correct holes for proper alignment so I just put the new dowels in the same holes the old ones came out of. After putting the flywheel back on it was somewhat tricky to torque the bolts without it spinning. I ended up putting two bolts in the outer ring of the flywheel and using a pry bar to stabilize it for tightening the bolts down.


    After that everything went together easily. Did take a little maneuvering to get the transmission to seat fully. I ordered the forte hydraulic clutch setup. Also there is a plug on the aft drivers side of the transmission that I believe is used for the speedometer. Mine has a gps and will not be needed. The transmission (tko600) is shipped with a rubber plug in there. If you are going with this configuration you need to remember to order this cover plate from Forte. I failed to initially and ended up paying extra for a second shipping charge.


    I did attach the mounting plate but was unsure about the rest of the hydraulic clutch setup at this point. Does anyone know if you put it on now if that causes any interference problems when installing the motor into the car?


    Had to dress it up wth the engine cover to get a picture when it was done. Cant wait to see it in the car one day.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 08-13-2016 at 08:44 AM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  10. #129
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Also there is a plug on the aft drivers side of the transmission that I believe is used for the speedometer. Mine has a gps and will not be needed. The transmission (tko600) is shipped with a rubber plug in there. If you are going with this configuration you need to remember to order this cover plate from Forte. I failed to initially and ended up paying extra for a second shipping charge.
    Now you tell me!! I didn't order one either. No disrespect to Forte, I am sure it is a fine part, but for something that small, that hidden, I am not sure I will pay the second shipping charge to get it. I will probably try to fab my own.

    I see you decided to leave the shift lever in the rear most position. For some reason I thought you were going to do a mid shift. Did you change your mind, or just not get around to it yet?

    I like that engine stand. Simple and solid. I may have to buy one, or perhaps borrow yours!!

    You are doing a great job!! Keep up your detailed posts, especially on the engine install. This stuff is old news to the experts around here, but for those who haven't seen or done it before, it is very good information. Especially your mistakes! We love to laugh at you . . . I mean "WITH YOU"!!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

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  11. #130
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Now you tell me!! I didn't order one either. No disrespect to Forte, I am sure it is a fine part, but for something that small, that hidden, I am not sure I will pay the second shipping charge to get it. I will probably try to fab my own.

    I see you decided to leave the shift lever in the rear most position. For some reason I thought you were going to do a mid shift. Did you change your mind, or just not get around to it yet?

    I like that engine stand. Simple and solid. I may have to buy one, or perhaps borrow yours!!

    You are doing a great job!! Keep up your detailed posts, especially on the engine install. This stuff is old news to the experts around here, but for those who haven't seen or done it before, it is very good information. Especially your mistakes! We love to laugh at you . . . I mean "WITH YOU"!!
    That piece is actually more than just a cover plate. It is a plug with an O-ring on it. I believe it would be quite challenging to fabricate the plug portion.
    Still haven't decided on the shift location. Going to see how it lines up when I get it in the car.

    The engine stand works great. It was $78.75 shipped to me. When I changed the oil pan I just picked the motor up with the hoist and set 2 4x4s under each side and it raised it enough that it was quite simple to get at the bolts and change them out. When it was on the ground today it was very easy to attach the transmission. It was less than a foot to elevate the transmission. Now it balances fine. I put a couple 2x4s under the back of the transmission to give it some support for the next month or so before it goes in the car. Not needed but it makes me feel better that it just isn't hanging there. I think for this application with the coyote where you really aren't doing any real engine work this is much preferable to a traditional engine stand. You are welcome to borrow it but I believe it would cost about that much to ship it to Arizona and back when you are done with it. When I sold the seatbelts that box cost me $40 one way to ship!!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  12. #131
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Now you tell me!! I didn't order one either. No disrespect to Forte, I am sure it is a fine part, but for something that small, that hidden, I am not sure I will pay the second shipping charge to get it.
    You're welcome: https://www.amazon.com/Bowler-BPT-SH.../dp/B013ZTGU2E

  13. #132
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duke View Post
    Thanks, Duke!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

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  14. #133
    Senior Member 6t8dart's Avatar
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    I got this from summit, it was a heavy nylon type plastic, but looks like a factory part. Works great, I installed it last week. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-spun-10004

  15. #134
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Wheels/ shifter idea

    Been traveling for a few days so I haven't gotten much work done. I was happy to get home today and have boxes from FFR waiting for me. I received some much needed back ordered items that will allow me to finish up some partially done projects on the suspension and steering. Also my wheels came. I originally ordered the 17" wheels but due to extensive backorder delays I decided this past week to switch to 18'. They look great. I had to take two out of the box and put them on the car just to see. Man that rear tire is going to be fat! I ordered tires from Tire Rack and they should be here in a couple days. I wanted the BFG Rival S but they were not currently available. I ended up ordering the 245/40ZR-18 FALKEN AZENIS RT615K RF and the 315/30ZR- 18. I think I will be very happy with those.


    Also in the backorder box was a part I was not expecting. In fact it was not on the pack list. I inquired with FFR and they indicated it is the Mount specifically for the 2015 + Coyote Computer. I am not to that stage yet but this is the first I have heard/seen about this mount. Maybe it is a new piece. I was happy they were proactive in shipping it to me instead of me figuring out down the road I need it and having to wait. Here it is:



    Finally while I was traveling I was thinking about planning the interior. I am an airline pilot. My dad was an Air Force pilot in Vietnam and airline pilot. He passed earlier this year. My entire life he had this stick in his office out of one of his Air Force jets he flew in 1968:
    I always played with it as a child and now display it in my office. My car isn't going to be very traditional with the high back seats and dual roll bars. I am thinking about using this as my gear shift handle as well as using some aircraft style rocker switches on the dash. Not sure if the scale is correct or if it will be to big. I am going to give it a look when I get the transmission in the car and can put a seat in. Here is how it fits in my hand:

    I would have to fabricate a linkage of some sort and make it interchangeable with a traditional shifter in case the day comes when I sell the car I could take it out and keep it. So thinking that over for now. It came out of the jet in '68 but was likely a few years old at that point. I think it is also kind of cool that it is close to the original vintage of the Cobra. Certainly that style of stick won't be liked by the traditionalist but that is ok with me. To each his own. I'd like to have a items of my dads in there and also tie it into my aviation background.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  16. #135
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    Using that stick is going to be way cool.
    Can't wait to see it installed.

  17. #136
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Love the shifter. What a great tribute to your dad. Good luck getting it to fit. And I mean that in a good way.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  18. #137
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Love the shifter. What a great tribute to your dad. Good luck getting it to fit. And I mean that in a good way.
    Thanks I am wondering if I use the mid shift position and just have a short stub of sorts sticking up if I could just put it right on there and use the existing bolt hole??
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  19. #138
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Thanks I am wondering if I use the mid shift position and just have a short stub of sorts sticking up if I could just put it right on there and use the existing bolt hole??
    By midshift are you referring to the TKO center shift position? As opposed to the rear position as it comes stock? If so, that midshift requires a kit and some disassembly/assembly of the transmission. I personally haven't done it, so can't comment about it too much. Doesn't look hard, but may be more that what you're expecting. Details here: http://www.tremec.com/anexos/Mid-Shi...sion%20Kit.pdf.

    There are tons of aftermarket shift handles on the market for the TKO that match the stub out of the transmission. It shouldn't be too difficult to find one that has the angle and length you want and modify to mount your aircraft handle. May take some work at a machine shop. But shouldn't be too bad.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  20. #139

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    Garry Bopp's Avatar
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    I love it, Scott! Awesome look plus a tribute and remembrance of your Dad!

    Garry
    I sure miss my coupe!

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  21. #140
    Mustang Convert bansheekev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Thanks I am wondering if I use the mid shift position and just have a short stub of sorts sticking up if I could just put it right on there and use the existing bolt hole??
    Here is what I did:
    1) Reversed the stock shifter on my TKO (the one shipped with the TKO can be reversed 180 degrees). This moved it forward about 3-4"
    2) I used a 5" tall 2.5" dogleg shifter from Fortes designed for a 99-04 Mustang GT. In the Mustang the dogleg brings the shifter closer to you, in mine I turned it around to be further forward. The shifter bolts straight to the TKO
    3) A friend machined a 1" aluminum adapter to move the shifter 1" further forward to get it right where I wanted it.

    Pretty much a mid shifter without tearing into the transmission to install a mid shifter. Here is what it looks like:

    IMG_2091.JPG

    Kevin
    MKIV, IRS/TruTrack/3.55s, Coyote, TKO600, Wilwoods
    Delivered: 1/6/2012
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    Graduation Thread

  22. #141
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bansheekev View Post
    Here is what I did:
    1) Reversed the stock shifter on my TKO (the one shipped with the TKO can be reversed 180 degrees). This moved it forward about 3-4"
    2) I used a 5" tall 2.5" dogleg shifter from Fortes designed for a 99-04 Mustang GT. In the Mustang the dogleg brings the shifter closer to you, in mine I turned it around to be further forward. The shifter bolts straight to the TKO
    3) A friend machined a 1" aluminum adapter to move the shifter 1" further forward to get it right where I wanted it.

    Pretty much a mid shifter without tearing into the transmission to install a mid shifter. Here is what it looks like:

    IMG_2091.JPG

    Kevin
    Thanks Kevin! That is what I will need to do
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 06-19-2017 at 08:23 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  23. #142
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    Scott-

    I think you will find that the flight control stick is joined to the metal piece by way of some adhesive, epoxy, or something similar. Some are just screwed right in. When transitioned to a display piece, they don't generally have a standard way of mounting them, but most I have seen are similar to my description.

    You can play with this material quite easily, and can find a method of joining it to the shift mechanism. It might take a little creativity, but will certainly be worth it. Based on what I have seen of your work, you will have no trouble at all getting this to work!

    I look forward to seeing it in action!

    Regards,

    Steve

  24. #143
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Tires/ fuel regulator and trouble

    My tires were delivered today so I got them mounted on the wheels. I love how they look. Cant wait to see them on the car.


    I finished the fuel and return lines and mounted the fuel regulator. I went with the kit lines. Turned out fine. I am not thrilled with using the rubber fuel hoses. This could be a potential upgrade soon after the car is complete. I did fabricate a bracket for the fuel regulator so it sits about an inch of the firewall. This will allow the coyote harness to come behind it. Thanks for that tip EdwardB! The regulator came with a bracket. I basically just duplicated the shape but made it come out an extra inch. Here are a couple pictures:


    In this one you can see how it sits away from the firewall:


    Now for the frustrating part of the day! A couple weeks ago I realized my steering tie rod end was not taking grease and the grease fitting was stripped so I could not replace it. FFR sent me a new one. So I decided to take 5 minutes and change it out. I never torqued down the nut or anything. I figured I would take the nut off, push the bolt end back through, unscrew the rod end and replace it with the new one. I could not get the rod end to disengage from the steering piece it was going through. Tried beating it out with no luck. Tried unhooking the upper control arm so I could move the assembly around in a few axis to loosen it. No luck there. Ultimately I cut the bolt part sticking through from the bottom with a hacksaw (the part was going in the trash anyways). Figured then I would be able to beat the remaining piece out. Still no luck. I cant for the life of me understand how the bolt part is so firmly planted in there. Now I have resorted to drilling it out. That is going extremely slow. I gave up after working on it for 2 hours. Figured it is best to walk away and come back another day. Here is what I currently have. As you can see it is maybe 75% drilled out and still will not budge.



    Questions:
    Is this normal for these to be so wedged in?
    I am concerned the other side might be like that as well. I centered the rack up when installing but still assumed these would need further adjustment when it comes time to align everything. Obviously you have to take this part out to rotate the rod end to lengthen/shorten it. Have people had problems with this?
    Any suggestions for how to get this thing out?

    Thanks
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  25. #144
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    Yes, this is normal for them to stick into place.
    No, you used the wrong tool. You should have used a ball joint separator. Example: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball.../dp/B0015PN010
    No, you can't reuse these parts. They will need to be replaced.

    You can always use this link in in the future too: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+remove+tie+rod+end

  26. #145
    Senior Member Gromit's Avatar
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    Ball joints and tie rod ends have a locking taper at this point a pickle fork removal tool still should work. But they aren't great if you are trying to reuse the ball joints or rod end because they can cut the boot. Most auto parts store s will even let you rent them.
    My family always hears me say..... It's all about having the right tools for the job
    Chris aka Gromit

  27. #146
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    ... Obviously you have to take this part out to rotate the rod end to lengthen/shorten it....
    No Scott, you do not take the outer tie rod ends loose from the steering arms when adjusting toe. You will loosen the jamb nut and turn the shaft that runs between the inner and outer tie rods. As for the easy way to disengage the tapered shaft from the steering arm---a couple of solid whacks with a hammer to the end of the steering arm in the horizontal axis (perpendicular to the tapered shaft) will usually cause it to fall right out.

    Good luck,
    Jeff

  28. #147
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Well another rookie mistake and lesson learned! Thanks for the replies and tips. Now I have mangled that bolt up so badly it should be a real PITA to get it the rest of the way out. Next time I will take a pause and ask first!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  29. #148
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    rolling chassis

    Wow what a complete pain in the rear that was. After about 3 hours of cutting, drilling, banging, filing and a few choice words I finally got the carcass of that bolt out without any damage to the steering arm. Never again will I forge ahead when I am stuck on something without a check of the forum for advice. Could have saved myself hours of frustration. It is all good now and I learned another good lesson without damaging anything I needed. The replacement rod end is installed and working nicely.

    After that I moved on to finishing up the front and rear sway bars. I had been waiting for the female rod ends since I got my kit. I cut them to the specified 1/2 inch of thread remaining and installed them. I noticed the rear directions specified to torque the lower bolts to 40lbs. The front directions did not give a torque specification so I did those the same.



    One that was done I had to put the tires on just to see what it looked like and roll it out of the garage for some pictures. Even had to pull the seat out of the closet to day dream a bit. haha Still on the dolley at this point but I am going to consider it a rolling chassis. I figured the added elevation the dolley provides will make it a little easier to work on until I am ready to put the motor in.


    I did notice when I put the wheels on that visually they are close to straight but will need a lot of work in all axis for alignment. What is the general thought on self alignment? Is it doable with the proper tools? Can anyone recommend some good alignment tools? I do not mind spending money on the tools vs paying someone to do it for me. I haven't found any good local recommendations for alignment shops so am really leaning towards doing it myself. I just need to educate myself on the process and required tools to learn if it is within my capability.

    Also it appears at the fullest reach of the steering I could have a slight rubbing issue on the f-panel. Of course the car is not aligned, or even sitting on the ground and the motor is not in yet. The suspension is just hanging in space with no load on it. I will revisit that down the road.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  30. #149
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Don't draw too many conclusions about anything until it's at ride height plus aligned. If you're still hitting the F panels later, there are stops you can add to the steering rack. Self alignment is absolutely possible and actually kind of interesting. At least I find it to be. Little tougher with this build because both front and rear need to be aligned. I have the SPC Performance FasTrax 91000 Camber Caster Gauge and have done all my alignments so far. There are other camber/caster options as well. I also have some toe plates, but there are several ways to do that. In addition to the tools, some use strings. I've had good luck with a laser level like the Bosch GPL3T 3-Point Torpedo. Bottom line, yes you can buy the tools and learn for not much more than the first alignment at a shop that specializes in such things. The biggest challenge I've found is using the camber/caster gauge with the newer 18-inch wheels. They have a nice stylish radius which makes it a bit challenging to attach the gauge. But this too has options.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
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  31. #150
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    clutch safety switches

    I worked on the coyote clutch safety switches today. FFR has recently started making brackets to mount these with.
    Here they are on the supplied brackets:


    The bracket for the one on the bottom works great. I used it as intended. The bracket for the one on the top is meant to be used with the assembly for the cable driven clutch. I am using a hydraulic clutch so that would not work.
    I ended up cutting this piece to make a push plate to activate the other switch:



    Here you can see it attached to the master cylinder and depressing the top switch. I drilled a new hole in this piece to make it line up properly and then trimmed it to shape. It is a little sloppy because it has an extra hole in it out towards the edge because of how I cut up the existing piece. The hole does not interfere with its push function and it will not be seen. I am just going to claim it is aerodynamically enhanced instead of admitting I took the easy way out of going to buy metal to make one from scratch.


    Then I made a bracket to hold the switch. I used a shape similar to what EdwardB shows in his build thread. I drilled holes to line up with the existing bolts. When FFR sent the new pieces they sent longer bolts than originally supplied and those worked great. I trimmed the switch plastic a little and then used the two mounting holes. I drilled and tapped a couple holes and a #6 x 3/4" bolt threaded into the forward hole. Because of the position of the rearward hole I was able to use a 1" bolt and go all the way through and add a nut. It is very solidly mounted. As solid as a plastic piece mounted to metal can be I suppose. After the picture just as a backup I secured a zip tie around the mounting plate and switch. The thought of having to get in there to replace it would not be fun!


    After that I put the pedal box back in the car. It all looks like it will work great. I installed the master cylinder for the clutch. Lastly I was able to run the steering shaft because I received the backordered pieces i was needing in that area.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  32. #151
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    accel pedal / fuse box

    Today I installed the accelerator pedal. I read a few different ways people had done this differently than the supplied directions to optimize their pedal position. I have size 13 feet and wanted to make sure I could get a pedal position I was happy with. My first attempt was to just follow the directions. I mocked it up and put my seat in the car. I was actually quite happy with the pedal position following the factory five instructions. I moved it up just slightly and locked it in there. Here is where they ended up and how my feet fit in there.




    Not thrilled with the finish on the pedal. Anyone know if anyone sells some sort of aluminum pedal that is a direct replacement that I could swap out and more closely match the other two pedals?

    After that I mounted the fuse box. I decided to use rivets to make it easy to screw in and out so that took a couple extra minutes. Got a good tip from EdwardB. The forward outside corner is not supported. Since I had a fan shroud kit I had the braces in the kit left over. I cut the end off of one of those and made a bracket to rivet to the frame and provide a mount location for the unsupported corner. I like how that worked out.

    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  33. #152
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Brake lines

    Ran the brake lines today for the front and rear. I must say this is one of my least favorite parts of the build so far. Starting with a straight 60" piece and trying to maneuver it around various bends has its challenges. It all worked out though. Will be anxious to see if I have any leaks when I bleed the system. I am using the triple fluid reservoir from CNC and have it mounted just a little forward of the DS footbox. I believe this will have to come out when the engine is being dropped in so I am not hooking up the lines to the reservoir just yet. Here is the front routing. I used one 60 inch piece from the pedal box to the DS brake and then a second piece around to the PS front brake. I could not get that last bend under the PS shock so I had to unbolt it, make the bend and then rebolt the shock.



    The rear brakes worked out ok. I was determined to use the supplied lengths and I did not want to have to cut and flare one of the lines. I have less confidence in my flaring ability than tube bending. The shorter pieces were to short and the long one seemed way to long for a direct routing. As a result I took a somewhat circuitous route from the junction point in the rear around to the PS rear brake. I have never ran any brake lines before. Does anyone see a problem with this routing? Does it matter that I used a longer piece than was really needed?



    I did notice today as I was running the front line near the power steering rack that one of the supply lines on the steering rack has a kink in it. It was delivered this way as I have never touched it.

    Also of note when I first unpacked it one of the red plugs that guards the inlet holes was damaged as well. I am now wondering if this thing took a large blow at some point in its life. I emailed FFR a picture (I purchased the rack from them with my kit). I requested a replacement line. They indicated they do not have just the line and would send me an entire new rack. I would really prefer not to replace the rack. Is there any reason I cant just take the damaged line off the already installed rack and take the new line from the new rack and install it?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  34. #153
    Mustang Convert bansheekev's Avatar
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    I can confirm that the triple CNC reservoirs need to be dismounted from the 3/4" tube in front of the driver's footbox to drop the Coyote in. Been there, done that a couple of times!

    Kevin
    MKIV, IRS/TruTrack/3.55s, Coyote, TKO600, Wilwoods
    Delivered: 1/6/2012
    First Start: 1/19/2014
    First Go-Kart: 2/1/2014
    Graduation: 1/4/2015
    Graduation Thread

  35. Likes toadster liked this post
  36. #154
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    No reason you can't just swap the line on the racks. Regarding brake lines; yours should work just fine however if you would prefer to do a rework using a shorter line to eliminate your "somewhat circuitous route" pre-made lines in a multitude of lengths are available for a few bucks at NAPA and other auto parts stores.

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  37. #155
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    No reason you can't just swap the line on the racks. Regarding brake lines; yours should work just fine however if you would prefer to do a rework using a shorter line to eliminate your "somewhat circuitous route" pre-made lines in a multitude of lengths are available for a few bucks at NAPA and other auto parts stores.

    Cheers,
    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff. I was determined to use all the kit supplied parts for at least one complete system so I am going to stick with my longer routing as long as it doesn't cause any issues. Finally no additional expense in an area!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  38. #156
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    cockpit aluminum/ almost ready for engine

    Today I installed part of the cockpit aluminum. I left the outside and top of the drivers footbox off for accessibility. I did make the engine bay side footbox side panels permanent in preparation for the motor going in soon. I left the back wall off until I do the trunk floor. Because of the location of my brake reservoir I will not be able to put fluid in the brake system and bleed them until after the motor is in. For now I am leaving the trunk aluminum off so I can access the rear lines in case there are any leaks. It is nice putting parts on the will stay there. This is looking like a car more every day!


    After that I had the momentous occasion of pushing the dolly out of the garage and turning it around to nose first in preparation for the engine install. Tomorrow or the next day it will come off the dolly. With any luck the next time the car sees the outside of the garage it will be moving there under its own power! In preparation for the engine install I removed the previously mounted radiator, removed the triple fluid reservoir, and swung the steering column out of the way. Tomorrow I hope to lay out some of the wiring harness and then I should be ready for the motor.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  39. #157
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Coyote is in!

    Got the motor in today.

    In preparation yesterday I made some transmission spacers. Following EdwardBs build thread he indicated he needed 3/4'" spacers. I made three 1/4" thick spacers and sandwiched them together. I have not installed the driveshaft yet but the alignment does look good with the 3/4" in there. Now I will have the flexibility to adjust it in 1/4" increments if needed or if I need a little more I could put some washers in there.

    Here they are installed


    After I had that complete it was on to engine install. Two buddies came over to help me out. First rookie mistake was I did not have the crane arm all the way out. It is a 2 ton unit that you can move the arm in or out depending on your loading. I like to be a little conservative so I was one setting in from full extension. Well after we picked the motor up and started the process of getting it in we realized the front of the frame was going to run into the crane before the engine was far enough in. That was a little delay because I had previously had the engine on a cradle that used the same mounting holes as the engine mounts. When we first picked the motor up while it was hanging we took the cradle off and put the mounts on. Now that we needed to set the engine back on the ground to extend the crane arm we had to do that in reverse and then pick it back up and do it again a 3rd time basically. That was about half the total time of the install! Live and learn I guess. Definitely a rookie mistake. Turns out even at full extension the front sway bar was only about 2 inches from hitting the engine crane. Not a lot of room to spare!

    As advertised it was a very tight fit! Again thanks to EdwardBs build thread I used a ratchet strap around the crane and the end of the transmission to help force the motor into the proper angle to get it in. You can see the strap here.


    I had previously installed the shorty headers. It was very tight getting them in. Also had the alternator and FFR power steering pump in place. Manipulating the leveler, the angle with the strap and very slow movements lowering and backwards we were able to get it in there. Once everything cleared it dropped right into the engine mount locations beautifully! I got extremely lucky with the rear engine lift plate I made that was discussed previously in the thread. Turns out when the engine settled into place the plate was right up against the passenger footbox. Literally less than a millimeter to spare. Got it out and there was no damage to the footbox but it could not have been any closer! I would recommend if anyone else is making those to notch that portion out a little bit so you have a little extra room to work with. It is hard to see in the picture especially with the gloss black powder coat and reflections but here it is right against the panel before we removed it.


    The other side by the oil dipstick is the least clearance area I have. Extremely tight over there! Again hard to tell with the gloss and reflections. It is not touching but very close.


    Here she sits. Had to pull out the engine covers again for the pictures.


    Proud of how that all worked out. Especially since it was mine and my 2 helpers first time installing any type of motor. Sure feels good to see it sitting there. We have a neighborhood BBQ tonight so I have to go man the smoker. Next project is the driveshaft. I do have this safety loop and have it ready to install.


    Oh and one last item. It was recommended to me to get some wheel dollies and to move the car to the engine crane instead of moving the crane to the car. A friend had a set I could borrow. I have no frame of reference because I have never done it the other way but it sure made it easy to line everything up by just sliding the car around on the dollies. That was a great tip.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 08-29-2016 at 04:32 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  40. #158
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    Scott-

    She looks comfy in there! How good does that feel, huh? Congratulations on getting that power plant in there, it looks awesome!

    I have enjoyed following your build. You are making very good progress.

    I had to comment though; even your shop towels are Auburn orange. Love that commitment. ;-o)

    Regards,

    Steve

  41. #159
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Congrats! Big accomplishment, and your first time too! Way to go.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  42. #160
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    driveshaft

    Installed the transmission A frame support, driveshaft and driveshaft safety loop today.

    The 3/4" of spacers I added into the transmission mount worked perfectly. Could not get a picture but when it was said and done and I put my angle gauge on it the reading was right at zero. I was pleased with that.

    When I put the driveshaft in I guess I was expecting more of it to be within the transmission end. This first picture shows where I drew a line on it with a sharpie when the driveshaft was in the installed position. The portion to the right of the line is the segment that ended up inside the transmission. About 2" I would guess. The second picture shows how much of the shaft is showing once installed. The picture is taken from above looking down into the transmission tunnel. (excuse my bald head and ear in the picture. I was pinned under the car and holding it out so my wife could take the picture.)



    I have no frame of reference but was expecting it further in the transmission. However when I Installed it I had to push it in as far as it could possibly go just to get the rear end able to go into position. So I guess if it was any longer I would not be able to get it installed.
    Does this look to be normal and ok?

    The safety loop went in ok. I was not planning on doing the Ebrake cable mod. However the shaft pushes hard against the cables. When the brake is released it is ok. When the brake is set I think the interference will be to much. I believe I will have to do the mod on the cables.


    Question - do the black portion of the cable move or is there a piece inside that is moving. I am wondering if the cable can survive pushed up against the safety loop like this?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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