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Thread: Pro Racecar wire routing tips! Sharing.

  1. #1
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Pro Racecar wire routing tips! Sharing.

    I wanted to share a neat feature I noticed on my Elan NP01. These cars are built by the same guys that build the Deltawing and Panoz cars- True professionals. After building cars for the last 16+ years, I thought I knew every trick in the book....haha, well, not really. Grab these two items to make wire running painless and trick/professional looking. Best of all it's SIMPLE! You can use the adhesive for other things also- Bonds metal to metal, plastic to metal etc! The tabs can be hidden and glued anywhere. Super strong, but can be removed with a good whack of a screwdriver and hammer. You use the bond on one part, then a quick spray of the activator on the other part. Then attach and it sticks. Way easier than mixing epoxy. You can secure wires, or anything else without having visible zipties here and there.





    https://www.amazon.com/THOMAS-TC-105...eywords=tc-105
    https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Yello...85+fl.+oz.+Kit
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  2. #2
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    I wanted to share a neat feature I noticed on my Elan NP01. These cars are built by the same guys that build the Deltawing and Panoz cars- True professionals. After building cars for the last 16+ years, I thought I knew every trick in the book....haha, well, not really. Grab these two items to make wire running painless and trick/professional looking. Best of all it's SIMPLE! You can use the adhesive for other things also- Bonds metal to metal, plastic to metal etc! The tabs can be hidden and glued anywhere. Super strong, but can be removed with a good whack of a screwdriver and hammer. You use the bond on one part, then a quick spray of the activator on the other part. Then attach and it sticks. Way easier than mixing epoxy. You can secure wires, or anything else without having visible zipties here and there.

    https://www.amazon.com/THOMAS-TC-105...eywords=tc-105
    https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Yello...85+fl.+oz.+Kit
    Thanks for posting, very useful
    Tony Nadalin
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  3. #3
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    Thanks, good tip and timely too. I was planning on using something similar, but plastic and riveted into the frame, but that won't work well for the areas where I need to bond to fiberglass. This seems like it would work great for fiberglass and stand up better to heat than plastic.

  4. #4
    iWire's Avatar
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    Very cool! We'll definitely test this out and add it to the options list!
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  5. #5
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    Chad-

    Very cool tip, and I appreciate you sharing it! Quick question though...

    The plastic piece that holds the wire looks different than a zip tie. It looks like it holds the wire away from the metal clip. Was this supplied with the kit, or did you source this separately? If you sourced this, could you share where you got it?

    Thanks again!

    Regards,

    Steve

  6. #6
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    Looks like a zip tie to me. You are seeing the locking part of the zip tie.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    I wanted to share a neat feature I noticed on my Elan NP01. These cars are built by the same guys that build the Deltawing and Panoz cars- True professionals. After building cars for the last 16+ years, I thought I knew every trick in the book....haha, well, not really. Grab these two items to make wire running painless and trick/professional looking. Best of all it's SIMPLE! You can use the adhesive for other things also- Bonds metal to metal, plastic to metal etc! The tabs can be hidden and glued anywhere. Super strong, but can be removed with a good whack of a screwdriver and hammer. You use the bond on one part, then a quick spray of the activator on the other part. Then attach and it sticks. Way easier than mixing epoxy. You can secure wires, or anything else without having visible zipties here and there.







    https://www.amazon.com/THOMAS-TC-105...eywords=tc-105
    https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Yello...85+fl.+oz.+Kit
    Not sure I see what was glued to what in the top photo. Is it the metal bracket that was glued to the tube and then a zip-tie holding the cable to the metal bracket?

  8. #8
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Here are some better pictures so you guys get a better idea- You can rivet them or screw them if you want (see hole), but I hate drilling holes in the frames. Plus, you can stick them anywhere and do not have to try and drill at weird angles. Using the Loctite adhesive is by far the easiest option.

    Aluminum Tabs:


    Used through out the car:





    They just are simple- and keep things tidy. The Amazon.com links are in my first post at the bottom.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  9. #9
    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    LocTite makes some good products, but what these two products are is Super Glue and Spray Activator. This same method is used by modelers, slot car enthusiasts, and others. You can also apply the accelerator when you get the part exactly where you want it, as applying the accelerator to the edges of the part works just as well. Both ways work.

    Also, as this is superglue, the surface needs to be clean and by roughing up the surface, you get better holding strength.

  10. #10
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnhipPopano View Post
    LocTite makes some good products, but what these two products are is Super Glue and Spray Activator. This same method is used by modelers, slot car enthusiasts, and others. You can also apply the accelerator when you get the part exactly where you want it, as applying the accelerator to the edges of the part works just as well. Both ways work.

    Also, as this is superglue, the surface needs to be clean and by roughing up the surface, you get better holding strength.
    I can attest that nothing needs to be roughed up for it to stick well. Everywhere they are attached, they are not roughed up in any way. It's a really neat product- Being a modeler, I am familiar with the superglues and speed activators- this is product is a little different than those for sure. I consider it more epoxy like than superglue. That may be why Loctite listed it with their Structural Epoxies even though it is a two part acrylic with a 250 degree heat rating.

    Regardless- it works, and do not worry about roughing up the surface at all. I have them attached to powder coat, aluminum sheet metal, plastic, the outer gearbox, rollcage, painted parts. I had to remove one tab on the lower wing pylon to make room for the Setup bars. A quick heavy whack with a hammer and a chisel popped it off with just some residual adhesive left. The residual came off also with some scraping with the chisel without any surface damage.
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 06-30-2016 at 09:23 AM.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  11. #11
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    Where can we buy the tabs?? I can think of a place or 2 now that the car is together that I can add a few.

  12. #12
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    The amazon link is in the first post under the pic. I missed seeing it the first time too.

    By the way, what a time saver, all those holes that don't have to be drilled. Thanks Chad for the tip!
    Last edited by flynntuna; 06-30-2016 at 01:03 PM.

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    http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-330/=132zgtd

    Not super glue......can be purchased at McMaster-Carr

    Thanks Chad!

  14. #14
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    of course, cyanoacrylate IS an acrylic, so maybe it is a superglue....sounds good either way!

  15. #15
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  16. #16
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Here are some better pictures so you guys get a better idea- You can rivet them or screw them if you want (see hole), but I hate drilling holes in the frames. Plus, you can stick them anywhere and do not have to try and drill at weird angles. Using the Loctite adhesive is by far the easiest option.

    Aluminum Tabs:


    Used through out the car:
    This is a great tip as I dislike drilling holes! I'd rather add a tab or something non-invasive like bonding on a mount. It got me to thinking. I looked around and found these that are half the price and might have some advantages though it could be argued that they are heavier.
    sc06_mag.jpg
    If you feel like fooling with a plumber's chain it can be deconstructed and used in the same way. 31y-1u4O2aL.jpg

  17. #17
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    I found a supplier that sells them in smaller quantities than $199. I just ordered 100 of the for $19.30 plus $5 shipping.
    Thanks Chad!
    http://www.newark.com/thomas-betts/t...-25/dp/12C2341
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  18. #18
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    I found a supplier that sells them in smaller quantities than $199. I just ordered 100 of the for $19.30 plus $5 shipping.
    Thanks Chad!
    http://www.newark.com/thomas-betts/t...-25/dp/12C2341
    Yeah weird- I only ordered 25 at a time. My old amazon link does not list the 25 quantity anymore.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

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