Who are the best wiring harness builders and ECU tuners?

[JB91710]

Looks like I'll be pulling the auto trans and installing a 5mt, pedals and the FFR 818 Shifter. Bummer! Anybody need a 5eat?

[flynntuna]

You might want to consider a toyota mr2 shifter. It allows the cables to go straight back instead of the FFR shifter which goes to the front and around to the back. Here's a thread that discusses it a bit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ht=Mr2+shifter

[JB91710]

You might want to consider a toyota mr2 shifter. It allows the cables to go straight back instead of the FFR shifter which goes to the front and around to the back. Here's a thread that discusses it a bit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ht=Mr2+shifter

Thanks Flynn but I need precisely what the FF shifter cables do. My car is right hand drive with the shifter on the Right side. I need to have the cables do that big loop around the car too the left side.

If someone has a FF shifter and is planning on switching, let me know how much you want for it.

I also need to know which of the 5mt's is the strongest.

[Canadian818]

I also need to know which of the 5mt's is the strongest.

They say the ones from legacy GT's or anything '08 and newer. However I'm not sure how much of that is proven. Also, with the torque of 12 cylinders, IMO no 5mt has a chance without PPG gears. You best bet is either get a 6 speed or build a 5 speed, neither option is cheap.

[STiPWRD]

^ I concur and am running ppg gears in my 5 speed.

If someone has a FF shifter and is planning on switching, let me know how much you want for it.

PM me if you want mine, I'm using the MR2 shifter. I believe the shifter FFR provides is out of a 06 scion tc.

[JB91710]

I pulled the auto transmission out today and I'm going to look for a Legacy 5mt from 05-06. I want to get the engines running before I spend extra money on a pedal assembly or shifter. I may even hold off on the transaxle until it's running.

I have heard that I might want to consider running two separate aftermarket ECU's and run the engines individually rather than splicing the signal wires from one ECU. Each engine is TDC on a cylinder so they will still fire at the same time. That sounds good but doubles the price. I would save on the splicing and custom harness however.

So now that the auto box is gone, I'm looking for the best sounding plan to run the engines. Keep in mind cost is a consideration.

[DodgyTim]

My EZ30R has CANBUS, and needs to have 5 matching components to run. From memory they were the engine ECU, dash, trans ECU, body ECU and a key.
These are available as kits from wreckers. Locally they run about $380 aussie ($300 USD???) for the whole set.
Could you install all the components, and a standard wiring harness, to get the rear motor/auto transmission running?

All but the dash are pretty small and easy to conceal, maybe hide the dash away somewhere and use your other gauges to keep the period look.

Once the rear motor is running, it doesn't seem too difficult to splice in the front motor and test if the standard ECU can run both, as Wayne suggested running the coils signals in series etc.

[DSR-3]

I have what I think is a full harness* and major electrical components (no dash) for an EZ30R I will part with for VERY little... *I harvested the 2 engine connectors & a couple feet of their wiring.

[JB91710]

Based on all the information I have acquired from this forum and trial and error through the years, the following are my thoughts on completing my car.

1. I will never get someone to physically help with the major task of working with the factory wiring equipment. I have to simplify the process even if it costs more.

2. Aftermarket companies are catering to the EZ30R now. (One unit to run both or two units?) I have mechanical throttle bodies on it now.

3. FFR has the 818 shifter and cables that will reach from the far right side of the cockpit to the left rear of the manual transmission. Others have shifters but I need the long reach of the FF system.

4. The car Would be better off with a manual transmission anyway. I only used the automatic because of the manual's shifter design headache. I had to design and build everything by myself and this was just one headache I could eliminate. Ha! Live and learn. I did notice in photos that the manual transmission had wiring connectors and I read something about an controller. I hope this isn't the old "Frying pan into the fire ploy!"

5. By simplifying things, maybe I can attract someone who will take on this wiring project. Hopefully in my lifetime. I can trailer the car anywhere in the 49 states as I will need a complete harness for the gauges and the DOT stuff also. I have a "Painless" harness that can be incorporated into the car and I've started the dash wiring which can be modified to actually work! I'm retired so I can stay wherever, indefinitely, to do the harness grunt work. Any takers? No, Australia is out of the question, sorry.

[STiPWRD]

After reading your comments I started to suffocate! I just pulled the transaxle! I have a harness with the ECU, TCU, and Body CU. I have an instrument cluster but no key. I have located the wires to the key which can be spliced together unless I need the actual ignition switch/key combination. That key may have a chip in it for the signal the ECU needs. I still need someone with electrical experience unless I just plug everything together and hook it up to the battery. Sometimes it gets hard to breath.

I'm not sure if you've already come across this thread but there was a guy that installed an H6 in his forester with manual trans and had to find several other items to get it all to run with a stock UK ecu. He was eventually successful, it might be worth a read. Or you could go the standalone route.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=32

[JB91710]

I'm not sure if you've already come across this thread but there was a guy that installed an H6 in his forester with manual trans and had to find several other items to get it all to run with a stock UK ecu. He was eventually successful, it might be worth a read. Or you could go the standalone route.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=32

At this point it Has to be standalone. I have to Simplify to attract a knowledgeable person to help me. It has to be tried and proven and simple for them to fit into their workload. I need engine management with manual transmission tie ins, gauge and switch wiring and a DOT requirements combined into a finished harness. I have to keep this as simple as possible so OEM is out!

[JB91710]

I have what I think is a full harness* and major electrical components (no dash) for an EZ30R I will part with for VERY little... *I harvested the 2 engine connectors & a couple feet of their wiring.

Does it have everything that DodgyTim mentioned other than the Dash? The ignition switch and Key? The key may have a chip. I wonder if the dash has to be from the same car. Can't imagine why. I have everything but the ignition switch and key and I'm almost sure they have to be on the same wave length as the ECU. As I have the harness, I would only need the boxes that have to Match and the ign/key. I think I read once that all you have to do is attach the "Key" near the ECU to pick up the chip signal. I feel a headache coming on.

[STiPWRD]

At this point it Has to be standalone. I have to Simplify to attract a knowledgeable person to help me. It has to be tried and proven and simple for them to fit into their workload. I need engine management with manual transmission tie ins, gauge and switch wiring and a DOT requirements combined into a finished harness. I have to keep this as simple as possible so OEM is out!

Just curious, if OEM is out, then why worry about having all the other stuff such as the immobilizer, steering column, dash...? An OEM ecu needs to see those things to run the engine, why would you need that stuff for a standalone ecu?

[JB91710]

Just curious, if OEM is out, then why worry about having all the other stuff such as the immobilizer, steering column, dash...? An OEM ecu needs to see those things to run the engine, why would you need that stuff for a standalone ecu?

NOW, you see how my head has been spinning around for 6 years listening to what people say Can Be Done, only to find out it hasn't been thought through to a successful conclusion. I am Again hearing on other threads here that the OEM ECU Can run the EZ30R with no mention of all the things that DodgyTim listed. Brian at iwire says it can't be done while someone else says it can. I would love to find out who has actually taken a OEM ECU, reprogrammed it with Romraider or Opensource or whoever and made this engine run in a standalone configuration. Not just, "Yes it can", but , "Here it is and this is how I did it".

I have to know All the options that are open to me And, that they are a proven product not just a theory. OEM is obviously the way to go If, it can be done. Final cost is a consideration with me! PLUS! I can't do it myself so I have to go with someone who has and can do it for me. Right now I'm waiting for Wayne to free up some time put I need to find out what all the options are so I can pick the system that best suits my project and wallet.

[STiPWRD]

I am Again hearing on other threads here that the OEM ECU Can run the EZ30R with no mention of all the things that DodgyTim listed.

Where have you heard this?

Brian at iwire says it can't be done while someone else says it can. I would love to find out who has actually taken a OEM ECU, reprogrammed it with Romraider or Opensource or whoever and made this engine run in a standalone configuration. Not just, "Yes it can", but , "Here it is and this is how I did it".

In post #40 Brian explains that the H6 OEM ecu has not yet been "decoded" so it cannot be modified (reflashed) with rom raider or other open source software. In order for the stock ecu to be re-programmable, you need a person (like a software engineer or programmer) to spend an extended amount of time (days/weeks/months?) to decode the stock ecu. I'm guessing this isn't going to be cheap. Brian mentioned this will be a massive task.

So it sounds like your best option is to use an aftermarket ecu, probably through Wayne. Just to be clear, those types of ecus like the Haltech and AEM do not require all of the peripheral items (immobilizer, dash...), so there's no need to worry about those things.

[SixStar]

AEM Infinity supports the EZ36 and Brian (iWire) can easily make you a harness.

[flynntuna]

Wayne's EZ30 in his 818 as I recall uses the electromotive ECU and the Haltech ECU has been used for the EZ36 in a car in Australia (gramps2 the 11second car)

http://www.haltech.com/mighty-car-mo...ru-goes-elite/

There's a something like a 6part series on YouTube. They don't give a detailed run down on how they installed it other than saying that they spliced it into the cars harness.

Wayne posted somewhere that the megasquirt will work on the Ez30 and the Ez36 if you change from drive by wire to cable. I should double check the thread to be sure though.

[R.Spec]

I think as far as I know, Jeff and I are the only ones that tune these subarus here on the forum. Maybe keith does as well? Anyone else?

There are plenty of comprable tuners around, also a lot of people that act like they know what they are doing. Choose someone who gives a tune that doesn't go for just power, but has great driveability.

[JB91710]

A number of companies are coming on board to run these engines. Haltech, Motec, Link, Electromotive. For my situation, Motec, who says they have done a lot of EZ30 work, has a 800 model that will run 12 cylinders. They are looking into seeing if the can fire two signals at a time to fire a cylinder in each of my engines. They can do the electric throttle body and pedal and VVT.

The OEM ECU is out for now based on Everything I've heard unless you pull everything out of the donor car the ECU needs to communicate with. In my case, that can't happen.

Harnesses would be handled by their dealers, you or someone you know.

It looks like the tide has turned and there won't be any problem running the EZ engines in the future. None of them can deal with emissions or auto transmissions. In CT. I have to include all emission equipment for the engine year but they do not require testing so making the equipment work is not a problem.

This what I hope to hear eventually.

https://youtu.be/FIoNRrI9hKA

[Bob_n_Cincy]

a 800 model that will run 12 cylinders. They are looking into seeing if the can fire two signals at a time to fire a cylinder in each of my engines. This what I hope to hear eventually.

https://youtu.be/FIoNRrI9hKA

If you hook the engine together in phase, You will only get 6 cylinder sound.
If you offset one motor 60 degrees, you will get 12 cylinder sound.
Also a standard 12 cylinder ECU pattern will work.
Bob

[flynntuna]

Sounds like you've got over this hurdle. Hope the rest of the build is smooth sailing for you. Keep us updated and we'd all love to see video of the first start.

[JB91710]

If you hook the engine together in phase, You will only get 6 cylinder sound.
If you offset one motor 60 degrees, you will get 12 cylinder sound.
Also a standard 12 cylinder ECU pattern will work.
Bob

The engines are connected so it is what it is. I wanted the cylinders to fire at the same time to eliminate torque on the connection. Keep in mind the length of the exhaust. The cylinders are never going to detonate side by side. One will be up front on one side and the other will be in the back on the other side. They will still come out the back one after the other in a series of twelve. Vrooom!

[JB91710]

Sounds like you've got over this hurdle. Hope the rest of the build is smooth sailing for you. Keep us updated and we'd all love to see video of the first start.

Only time and luck will tell. I did everything myself. Now the completion is in the hands of others and that makes me suffocate. Even if Motec can get the computer to work perfectly, I still need a harness. I also need to straighten out my gauge, fuel pump and starter wiring as well as install a Painless wiring system for DOT. I have the feeling I may be spending the winter learning how to build harnesses. As long as I have a map to follow, I can get it done. The engines are the hardest part and that's up to Motec.

[JB91710]

I just found out the electronics to run my engines with Motec is going to cost a whole lot of money.