Forte's

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  1
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: 818C hatch strut instructions

  1. #1
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
    Post Thanks / Like

    818C hatch strut instructions

    Recently I received the 818 hardtop update pack that includes the hatch struts and mounting parts - thank you. However, I can't find instructions about the location of the strut mounts in the most recent manual update, 1Q, nor on the FFR instructions site. Can you please direct me to the 818C hatch strut instructions?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  2. #2
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    685
    Post Thanks / Like
    Pete, never found a set of instructions. But I can give you a description of what I did... it may be wrong but the tail opens and closes
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,112
    Post Thanks / Like
    That would be nice. FFR doesn't have instructions currently available.

  4. #4
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    685
    Post Thanks / Like
    An Imbeciles Guide to Installing the Rear Hatch Gas Struts on the 818C

    Disclaimer: I don’t work for FFR, I don’t follow instructions well (even when they are available) and it usually takes me two tries to get something right. However, here is how I installed my struts.

    Pre Assembly
    Assemble the balls into the tube collars. The threaded stud with ball on the end and one of the plastic spacers are threaded into the tube collar and tightened down.

    Collar Installation
    Loosen both sides of the tube collar. Remove the cap screw from one side -plan ahead and pull the top screw rather than the bottom; the ball will be facing the inside of the car. Open the tube collar and slide it over the roll bar support tube. Re-insert the cap screw and loosely position the collar. On my install the final position is 2” to 3” from the diagonal brace tube. You will want these to move/slide on the tube when performing final positioning of the hatch.
    WP_20160910_12_11_55_Pro.JPG

    Measuring for installation on hatch
    Using a tape measure or string and some tape you will need to mark where on the hatch you need to install the other ball plate. The struts measure approx:
    16.5” open
    11“ compressed

    Prop the hatch open to your desired angle and use the open length to put a guide mark on the hatch inner plastic.
    Use the closed length to verify the position of the anchor when the hatch is fully closed (this might be easier to do before the glass is installed.
    In my install the center of the anchor plate is 12” from the top edge of the hatch (including glass).

    Anchor plate installation
    Install the anchor plates to the inside lip of the hatch, flush with the upper surface and having the balls pointing to the center.
    WP_20160910_12_18_04_Pro.JPG

    I attached the anchor plate using 2 provided self-taping Phillips head screws and one self-taping sheet metal screw (not provided). I drilled pilot holes and discovered that this “lip” doesn’t have any apparent reinforcement behind it, so not over-tightening the screws is very important. So far the plastic has held up to about 100 open close cycles with no problem… so far so good.
    After attaching the anchor plates to the hatch snap on the gas struts and verify the hatch opens to your desired amount. Then slowly close the hatch; if the collars are loose enough and do not bind they will allow the struts to fully compress before they shift, allowing you to ultimately get the collars in the correct position when the hatch fully closes.

    The last thing to do is tighten up the cap screws on the collars once the hatch movement is set. Re-verify the spacing of the top of the hatch to the hard top, the struts tend to push the hatch towards the rear of the car slightly.

    Any other questions or details/pictures you want to see, just let me know.
    Last edited by mikeb75; 07-09-2017 at 09:17 PM. Reason: photobucket sucks
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  5. #5
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks, Mike.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  6. Likes LearningCurve liked this post
  7. #6
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    685
    Post Thanks / Like
    My pleasure, Pete. Hope it helps.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  8. #7
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mike, your hatch strut instructions worked perfectly! Since you said it's titled "An Imbeciles Guide to Installing the Rear Hatch Gas Struts on the 818C", this confirms I am one.
    Maybe FFR will publish this and send you a fat tech writer's check.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  9. #8
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    685
    Post Thanks / Like
    Glad the instructions helped out Pete. Also, congrats on imbecile status-I wear mine proudly!

    As for the actual instructions, I do hope FFR uses them, corrects the mistakes, adds better pictures and publishes them.

    Giving me a fat check... sure, I wouldn't say no, but you know we don't post build tips for the money
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  10. #9
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
    Post Thanks / Like
    To update this, I suggest that you install the hatch hinges before you install the glass in the quarter windows and/or the window wall. If you can reach the hatch hinges from the inside, you'll save some time and aggravation, though it's still possible to adjust the hinges with all the glass installed. You must have the hatch glass in the fiberglass hatch to mount the hinges, so either hold the glass in with duct tape or have it bonded in place. Then assemble the hatch hinges, keep all bolts a little loose, place the hatch in position, then tighten the bolts from the inside. . . . Then, once the hinges are perfect, install the gas struts.

    Mike, can you please re-insert your the photos? Your instructions were very useful for me and others following will need your photos. (Yech, Photobucket did that to all posted photos.)
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  11. #10
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    685
    Post Thanks / Like
    I will try to fix the pictures with direct attachments; looks like photobucket has crapped the bed on a lot of websites.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  12. #11
    Senior Member cmcintyre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Danbury, CT
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well, FFR seems to have changed the lower attachment for the hatch strut installation. The parts I got (labeled Gas Strut Brackets, PN 13972, as pictured) don’t make much sense to me. Anybody put them in successfully or gotten any guidance from FFR?

    Thanks!B2A21555-4022-4978-987C-2F4976FE8D79.jpg
    " That which is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce

    SN 46 In the building 10/4/13.
    Go Cart 10/20/16
    Coupe Conversion
    EJ205 Wagon donor

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor