Copart Polling...how did it go for you?

[turbomacncheese]

After reading as much as I could about Copart in the threads this morning, I'm a little concerned about purchasing through them. Of course, all my time in hospitality taught me that the angriest people are the most likely to speak up and tend to bias perception negatively. If you've bought from Copart please share your experience. It could mean the difference between some of us paying a couple thousand for a wrecked donor or several thousand for a private purchase. Thanks.

[FFinisher]

I have not used co part. I have used ride safely.com. It too is a salvage car site. I have had good luck with them. Just be sure you understand the fees so you don't overpay. Everything is signed electronically and communication is very good.

I have purchased several mustangs through them over the years with much success.

[turbomacncheese]

Thanks for tip. Of course, I read a lot of copart reviews, and most of the complaints centered around there being too many fees or around people who expected to rebuild the car or actually drive it. Clearly, the latter concerns don't affect people here. I'll check out ridesafely.

[turbomacncheese]

I recognized at least one WRX on ridesafely from copart. Looks like maybe ridesafely is a broker that buys from auctions, including copart. Good to know you had a good experience. The fees seem a little higher than what I get with the Copart fee list, which accounts for RideSafely being a broker.

[NBinSD]

Your poll answers don't really match a copart purchase. Copart doesn't describe anything, just shows you pics, tells you mileage, and if it runs or not.

For me it came down to buying something that runs that I could test drive and inspect from craigslist for a premium price ($7500-12k), or buying something trashed on copart and factoring in the cost of rebuilding. Both routes end up pretty similar in cost but one gives you a new motor.

[brian b 36]

I own a salvage yard and bye cars every week from them they broker cars for ins companys and run and drive does not mean you can drive them home it could nock or have no reverse or over heat, it means it starts and will move buying from copart for 35 years

[turbomacncheese]

NBinSD. That's a fair criticism. I'm taking "description" to mean "if it was in the pictures, did you get it?" and "starts and drives" means starts and drives. I've seen complaints of a car that was described as starts and drives having broken camshafts or no timing belt. Kind of hard to imaging that car starting, much less driving.

brian b 36. Copart is pretty clear that run and drive means exactly what you say it does, so I'm ok with that going in. Do you have any suggestions on how to NOT overpay, given this? Thanks.

[fastzrex]

I purchased my donor through CoPart this fall. It is hard to find Subaru WRX vehicles locally (Oklahoma City) and Texas requires a license to buy any type of salvage vehicle. I watched the listings for two months and determined that I will have to be able to buy from states for which I do not qualify as a business buyer.

After research for about a month I selected a broker (Cleveland PAP) so I could bid in California and Texas. I talked with everyone I considered just so I could at least see if they sounded reasonable. I only considered those with a store front, been in business for ore than five years, and actually answered the phone without waiting for a call back (lots of 'funny feeling' brokers out there!). Having a broker scared me to death and was very skeptical about how this purchase was going to turn out. I bid on several cars, and finally won a car from Northern California. The estimated cost for transport to OKC was more than $1K from my research; this was a large part of the total overall price. I was really concerned that the transport company would delay pickup and more expense starts after a few days with CoPart.

I Called my broker at Cleveland PAP, and started the purchase process. Sent a cashiers check via FedEx next day, my broker confirmed location and vehicle. I was called the next day by the broker saying the check arrived and asked her to see what she could do from transport pricing although their service was an extra $75. I agreed (my best price was still north of $1K) and by afternoon, she had located a company they had used before, could pick up the following day in California, and total delivered price was $600 into my shop.

To make a long story much shorter, received the car in three days at $600 as agreed on. Only hassle was the driving crew was not very communicative (had to call them to see if there ETA was still good), and they insisted on wanting to deliver at night as they had several other cars to deliver and wanted drive on.

I would do this again by using this broker. Although there is an additional fee for their service, it still found me a car at a good price from an area I could not bid in, with a very good delivery price. Your results may vary!

~ Mark

After reading as much as I could about Copart in the threads this morning, I'm a little concerned about purchasing through them. Of course, all my time in hospitality taught me that the angriest people are the most likely to speak up and tend to bias perception negatively. If you've bought from Copart please share your experience. It could mean the difference between some of us paying a couple thousand for a wrecked donor or several thousand for a private purchase. Thanks.

[mikepward]

I have bought 6-8 jeeps and other 4x4s from copart, and I will say that I like buying from them. Of course you need to keep in mind the buyers fees and any broker fees when bidding. On this forum I assume you are looking for a donor car so title may not be a concern, but if you are planning to rebuilt a wreck be aware of laws and process in your state, and beware of "parts only" or "junk" title, you can get a great deal on these for parts, but will not ever be able to register them. The thing I like about buying wrecks is that you know whats wrong with them, they were driving before they were wrecked, when you buy a used car locally, the owner is trying to hide the reason he finally got fed up with his car and decided to sell it.

[fastzrex]

I just needed a Subaru WRX as complete as possible mostly due to needing an intact wiring harness, engine, transmission, and many other parts for the 818 build. In this case, the vehicle had side damage with engine compartment intact. After a compression and leak down check was normal for 133K miles, engine started, ran smoothly although it was not driveable with one front wheel tucked hard against a subframe. I just had a good luck first buy.