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Thread: Rear control arms-long mounting bolt

  1. #1
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    Rear control arms-long mounting bolt

    Another question for the more experienced.
    Trying to remove the lower links from upright and the long bolt is proving difficult. Car has seen some weather in its life and the bolt is pretty
    bound up. Used various penetrating oil so far with out much luck putting a disposable nut on bolt and giving it a whack has not done anything.
    Letting it soak overnight. Did others have to use heat or ??
    Thanks for any replies.
    Frank

  2. #2
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    Its a common problem. Try acetone mixed with ATF as a penetrating oil. If that fails, add heat.

  3. #3
    Senior Member NBinSD's Avatar
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    Put a six foot pipe over the end of your breaker bar and add leverage.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Sometimes you just need a longer pipe.

    P1040817s.jpg


    I use my Floor Jack handle
    I've broken a high quality breaker bar on this project.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 09-23-2016 at 09:49 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  5. #5
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Can an impact gun be used?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  6. #6
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    I have tried atf/acetone and impact. Trying heat next. Thanks for suggestions.

  7. #7
    Senior Member mistasherm's Avatar
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    I had an issue with one of mine and soaked it in PB Blaster and hit it with the strongest impact the hobby shop had and that worked.

  8. #8
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    If you dont have a cheater pipe, the most readily available are metal water pipes from Home Depot. The ends are threaded with pipe thread and usually capped with orange platic. I think 1" or 1.5" is what I bought. You can get them in various lengths. Mine is 4'. In plumbing section.

  9. #9
    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    If the above do not work, hit it with the biggest sledge hammer you can find. If it breaks, then it needed replacing anyway.

  10. #10
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    Known to be difficult. I was successful with an impact hammer to get the bolt out of the upright and then used my 12 ton press to get the remaining arm off of the bolt.

  11. #11
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    I own a salvage yard and we have a trick but you need a air chisel we have gotten every one of so far pm me and I will give you my n# and call you explain how to do it brian

  12. #12
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    I was not able to get mine free with an impact or cheater bar although the I was able to remove the nut. I was able to cut off the bolt head with a grinder and cutoff wheel. Then reinstalled the nut. Tightening the nut broke the bolt free and pulled the bolt loose. I should also add. I think the new bolts have a high percentage of precious metals....I think that is why they are so expensive!

  13. #13
    Harley818's Avatar
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    I had to reapply the penetrating oil and let it pool around the bolt from the open side multiple times. Each time I pulled away the sludge and scraped away flaking rust bits.
    Once I cut off the bolt head I had to try a press both directions, multiple times. Pounded on it while it was under pressure. Finally gave way.
    You need patience, and persistence. If it doesn't come one day... it will the next, or the next......
    Good luck.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  14. #14
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Left 'em for dead... hope yours are in better shape :|
    20140402_104802_resized.jpg

    And we used a few bottles of propane/MAPP during the disassembly heat was a must.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    Left 'em for dead... hope yours are in better shape :|
    20140402_104802_resized.jpg

    And we used a few bottles of propane/MAPP during the disassembly heat was a must.
    Mine looked just like this. I chiseled away all the loose rust scale that I could, which freed up some room to move, then wailed on it with a hammer. Putting a nut on it so you dont mushroom to the point of binding in the upright is advisable. You can get it out, but it was a pain. PB Blaster, mapp gas, big hammer, all played an important role. Upright looks great now all cleaned up with a new bolt from Subaru!

    If you dont have a pneumatic needle de-scaler, I'd get one. It made short work of cleaning up nasty rusty components, like the uprights. http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ler-96997.html

    IMG_7752.JPG

    This upright looked like yours at the end of its first life!

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