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Thread: one answer could be "so what!" (topic = aluminum)

  1. #1
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
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    one answer could be "so what!" (topic = aluminum)

    Making progress. I was on vacation last week and actually wrote stuff to catch up on my build log. Just need to plug in photos and I can update that thing. I'm sure you are all breathlessly waiting... In the meantime, a few aluminum oriented questions. Nothing huge, but I couldn't find any definitive answers in my google search or in the manual, so where do I go? Here!

    1. Footbox. Outside wall bottom (both sides). Should they be inside or outside the floor? (inside = between floor and frame.) Here's the thing: I documented where everything was when I dismantled it, except for these few items.
    2. Footboxes: floors get riveted through the tube part of the frame, don't they? It would make sense, but thought I'd see what the collective wisdom is.
    3. Does it matter if the front tunnel "A" frame piece is inside or outside of the footbox inside walls? (inside means you see the seam from the engine bay, which is what I do not want.)
    4. Logically, it makes sense to me to hold off on riveting panels now. At what point would you actually take the drastic step of actually riveting these things in place? Once the "plumbing" is complete, or would you wait until some other step? Why do I ask? I'm running out of clecos!

    I look forward to your comments!
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  2. #2
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    My a frame piece is outside I think you put it on first. Either way make sure you rivet from the inside. If not your rivets will hold the carpet out
    Mk4 # 8834 delivered 03/20/16 2015 IRS wildwood brake upgrade, 18"x9" front 18"X11" rear halibrand wheels, 390 FE, tko600

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    1. Side panels are outside the floor panels.

    2. I personally put a row of rivets (3 inch spacing) through the floor into the 4-inch chassis tube. I'm careful to get them exactly centered so they hit the high point. Not everyone will agree with this though. Also in all the other frame members in the floor. But I don't put any in the floor pan. I don't want all those deformed ends sticking through to the bottom of the chassis. I put lots of adhesive on the floor pan (along with everywhere else of course), pull all the rivets, and then set a nice heavy weight on the floor pan area. Usually a couple cinder blocks, a bag of landscaping sand, whatever I had handy. Let it set for a day or two. Bonded and not going anywhere.

    3. The footbox inside walls go inside the A-frame piece. Fits better that way. Done neatly it looks fine IMO and is nearly impossible to see once the engine is installed.

    4. You'll get lots of opinions on this. You need the panels in place to make sure brake, fuel and electrical are in the right locations, no interference, etc. So I cleco them temporarily, finalize all the plumbing, then put them in permanently. No real reason to wait any longer IMO. The are exceptions though. (1) I wait to the very last time I put the body on to put on the DS outside footbox side and top. You want that area open as long as possible. (2) Several pieces don't go on until the body is on: The door sill pieces, splash guards, and front radiator inlet pieces.

    As a general rule, if you follow the exact sequence shown in the manual for the panel installations, the overlaps will be in the right direction. The pieces are quite precise. I find they fit much better if you install them exactly as shown.

    I personally put all the rivets in so the heads are where visible. Footboxes, wheels wells, everything. I think the improved appearance is significant. If you're using the right grip range rivet, the pulled side is only slightly longer than the head, and is easily covered with insulation and carpet.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-25-2016 at 09:21 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  4. #4
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  5. #5
    Senior Member Gromit's Avatar
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    And trunk floor riveted down before the back cockpit wall right? Even though manual says otherwise

    Chris aka Gromit

  6. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gromit View Post
    And trunk floor riveted down before the back cockpit wall right? Even though manual says otherwise

    Chris aka Gromit
    Yes, that's one of the areas that it's best not to follow the manual.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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