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Thread: License plate bracket wire routing

  1. #1
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    License plate bracket wire routing

    All of my trunk aluminum is prepped and ready to install. I am trying to finalize the routing of the Ron Francis harness before I silicone and rivet the panels. My first choice is always to avoid drilling holes, but I can not seem to come up with a routing option for bringing the license plate bracket wiring up into the trunk interior that doesn't involve adding a hole and grommet. My thought is to put the hole and grommet in the upper corner of the small triangular trunk side panel on the PS then bring the wires up to the curved upper trunk tube center.
    Any other good options for routing that I am not seeing?
    Thanks,
    John S.

  2. #2

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    I usually drill a hole for a grommet in the trunk floor just ahead of the angled roll bar leg. the roll bar will mostly conceal it.
    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    I usually drill a hole for a grommet in the trunk floor just ahead of the angled roll bar leg. the roll bar will mostly conceal it.
    Mike
    Right where the 3/4" diagonal tube and the 3/4" cross-member tube meet? That might give me a little more length than coming forward, up, and then back through the triangular side panel.
    I have a mechanical fuel pump setup but I very well may go to an in tank electric fuel pump in the future with TBFI. Is there any issues with bundling up the fuel pump wire and leaving it in place below the access panel in the trunk?
    Thanks for the reply,
    John S.

  4. #4
    Member Arvin's Avatar
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    I put a false wall in my trunk to hide the amplifier, seat belts, and roll bars. I drilled a hole through that then attached to trunk hinge.



    I then drilled a hole in the trunk panel next to the hinge and ran the wire between the panel to the license plate light (sorry don't have a photo of this part). I then covered the opening with aluminum riveted panel.
    FFR Complete MKIV Kit (#8271)
    Ordered: Jan 21, 14, Registered: Aug 19, 15
    408 Keith Craft Engine (512 hp, 534 ftlb), Tremec TKO600, Fast EFI, 8.8 Solid 3.55:1 Rear End, FFR Replica Halibrands (9 & 10-1/2"),
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    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwsnake56 View Post
    on the PS then bring the wires up to the curved upper trunk tube center.
    I drilled a hole and inserted a grommet like Mike said, then drilled a hole & inserted a grommet in the raised portion of the trunk liner, next to the hinge. Very minimal wiring showing and I secured it to the hinge so it is more concealed and not hanging down. I also installed a weather-proof disconnect that tucks up near the rollbar / curved 3/4" trunk brace so I can unplug to remove/install the trunk lid easily.

    I agree with you fuel-pump wiring, bundled & below the access panel.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  6. #6
    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    20150812_172845.jpg

    I also wired through the trunk liner. Wires are only visible near the hinge. I used the fuel pump switch for my back-up lights. Added two led's to the license plate frame.
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

  7. #7
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    this was a PITA, but it came out pretty clean.
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    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
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