srobinsonx2 Build Thread

[wareaglescott]

congrats on the first start! Will be looking forward to some go cart video

[srobinsonx2]

https://youtu.be/PuMNh3tiCJ4

I've been busy and trying to work on the build in my free time so I havent posted an update lately. Here is a go kart video. I have about 5 miles on the car now. I plan to put the body on in the next couple of weeks.

[wareaglescott]

fun video! First time Ive seen someone mount the camera on their head! haha

[srobinsonx2]

Yeah. I tried getting some video with my GoPro on the roll bar but it was too shaky. Plus you get a first person perspective.

[srobinsonx2]

It has been a few weeks since my last real update. I have finished week #23 and have logged 349 hours. I have got the car to the go kart stage and manged to get about 5 miles on the odometer. I only have a few issues and will save those until the end. So here is where I am:

Engine: Got the engine lined out enough for it to run reasonably well and drive. I have a 347 from Gordon Levy attached to a T5 transmission. The 347 has power steering, one wire alternator, and integral solenoid on the starter. it went in well and hooked up easy enough. I have the timing set at 14 degrees BTDC at idle (about 900 rpm) and then maxes out at 34 degrees. I have to do some tweaking on the carb to get smooth operation. I called Gordon and he walked me through the basics. I have a Quick fuel SS 750 with electric choke. I had to adjust the idle mix screws by setting the front to 1 full turn open and the back to 1/2 open. I also turned the idle speed screw (the screw right behind the throttle lever on the driver side) in one full term. These adjustments got the engine running better than the "out of the box" set up. Now I just have a choke problem. At least I think I do. I will ask that question later.

Chasis: I have the alignment and pinion angle set. I first set the ride height to 4.75 in the front and 5.25 in the rear. After this I set the pinion angle. The transmission rear flange was right at 0 degrees. I adjusted the pinion angle to 2 degrees down with the upper control arm. Not to tough. The front alignment took about half a day of tweaking and a few explectives but got it done. I bought a Fastrax and it worked really nice. Set camber first at 0.5 degrees. Well actually it is about 0.75 so hopefully that will work. The caster ended up about 7.5 degrees. I didn't have to cut any of the rear upper control arm tube like others have. They are essentially in as far as they can go. Then set the toe to 1/8" in. It took about 3 iterations to get everything set. Checked all the torques and added some more grease.

Miscellaneous: I installed the seats and harnesses on both driver and passenger sides. Also finished he driver side footbox. Ended up using rivnuts on the access panel on the drivers side foot box. That will allow easier access. I also used rivnuts to hold the transmission tunnel on. I put two on each side. I think I will try and use some carpet tape or velcro to hold the carpet down on the trans tunnel which will cover the button head bolts. After that, I finished the bulb seal and weather stripping along the 3/4" frame.

Side pipes: I also installed the Gas N Pipes. The driver side was angled in and right up against the frame. I wanted to test drive the car with these pipes so I wouldn't upset all the neighbors. In order to solve this I called Mark Reynolds at Breeze. He sent me a wedge that moved the rear out 1 1/2". It worked perfectly and they both line up almost perfectly.

Here is a picture of the go Kart.


So here a few questions:

1. My fuel gauge doesn't seem to read right. I and using the autometer gauges and the level sending units that came with the complete kit. I have put 8 gallons in total. When I first filled it up it read a little over a quarter of a tank which seemed a little low but thought I would worry about it later. I have since cranked it a few times and driven about 7 miles. It now reads less than a quarter of a tank. I can't fathom 7 miles and a few idles would consume 4-5 gallons. If so I will need to plan trips with gas stations every 15-20 miles. I verified the gauge reads the standard ford range (16-158) since at 1/4 tank it had a resistance of about 50 ohms. The level gauge has moved and I can tell it changes as fuel is moving around in the tank (inclines and declines). So what are your thoughts. Should I take the sending unit out of the tank and check it. I could also "stick" the gas level in the tank and estimate about how much fuel I actually have. Other ideas?

2. Carb issue. So the engine starts beautifully from a cold start. I press the throttle all the way down once and release. Then turn the key and it starts almost instantly. When the engine is hot (choke is still open) it starts great and idles well. The issue is when the engine is warm. So the engine itself is warm and the choke has started to close but has not gone all the way shut. The engine struggles to start. It usually takes about 4-5 seconds to fire and then idles really rough. I usually have to feather the throttle to keep it running and get it hot. Once hot and the chokes opens completely it runs great. I am using the same starting sequence each time. Pump the throttle once, release, and start. What do you guys think about the "warm" start issue? The fast idle speed is about 1100-1200. Might be a little low. Would increasing the fast idle speed help at all? Thoughts.

Thanks for the help in advance. I might also post these questions on the other forum as well to see if I get other ideas.

[bobl]

You probably just need to back off the choke setting a little. After all you do live in Texas!

[srobinsonx2]

So I watched some videos, read some posts (thanks bobL), and decided I might have a couple of issues with my "carb" tuning. I adjusted the choke so that I get a little leaner mix when it is cold. The choke "butterly" valve (or whatever it is called) is now about 1/8" from being shut when completely cold. Well, Texas cold at about 60 degrees. Sorry to you guys up north. I was up in the midwest last week for work. You really should all move. Something is dreadfully wrong with your weather. Snow and single digits is not fun. Anyway.....

After making that adjustment, I also took some advice from someone on the other forum. Before each start I had been pumping the gas pedal one time slowly. Per that recommendation I decided to try it without pressing the gas. At cold the engine started right up. The choke warm up took maybe 30 seconds or so. I didn't time it but it couldn't have been more than a minute. I let it warm up a couple of minutes and never touch the throttle. When it got warm and with the fast idle still on it was about 1200 rpm. I lightly pressed the throttle and it dropped down to between 900 and 1000 rpm. Perfect. At least that is what all the expert advice said I should have. I then let the engine cool down enough for the choke to partially close. This "warm" start was where I had my problems before. I let it cool say 5-10 minutes (simulate a stop at a gas station for example). I then tried for another start at this warm condition. Did not touch the throttle, just pressed in the clutch and it fired right up. Now I am feeling good. I just need to check the hot re start condition. I drove the go kart down the street to a co workers house. He had been asking me to stop by so he could see it. I drove about 1 mile over there and killed the engine. After a couple of minutes I restarted (without pressing the throttle) and vrooom. It started right up. I will continue to test but I think I am pretty close. The super rich smell at cold and warm start are gone. I also get less visible fumes during warm up. I want to do one more thing to check my carb tuning and that is use a vacuum gauge to set the idle mix screws. I have them set about where Gordon Levy told me to put them. I have never done this vacuum idle mix process before but seems pretty simple based on the videos and instructions I have read. So here is how I am going to do the process. Let me know if i missed something:

1. Find the full mainfold vacuum port on the carb. It appears to be low on the side of the carb body. I will hook the vacuum gauge to that port.
2. Start the engine and let it get up to operating temp.
3. Adjust one screw at a time and see where I get max vacuum. I was going to start at the front driver idle mix screw.
4. Leave the gauge in the same vacuum port and move to he rear driver screw and repeat the process of finding max vacuum.
5. Repeat the same process with out moving the vacuum gauge from the original port for the passenger side.
6. Go back and verify each idle mix screw is providing max vacuum.

Am I missing anything and does that sound right? I know the rpm test is another way but I can make pretty gross adjustments to the idle mix screws without noticing much change in rpm. At least not that I can hear. Hopefully this will help me get it tuned in. Down the road I plan to get a wide band O2 sensor for tuning but that will be later. This is probably overkill but it will be something fun for me to learn. Since I am an engineer I like this stuff.

I also got to trouble shoot the fuel gauge problem. I removed the fuel sending unit and made sure it was functioning. The float moved freely and read 16 ohms at empty and 158 ohms at full (out of the tank with me moving the float). So that works. I then "stuck" the tank. I put a wooden yard stick in the whole where the level sender goes. The height from the bottom of the tank to the top was a little over 4 inches. My liquid level was less than 1 inch. That would make the level of just above E about right. I put the sending unit back in and added 5 gallons. I estimated that should move the level to 1/3 of a tank (14-15 gallon tank). It did and I ended up with a level between 1/4 and 1/2 a tank. I feel much better. I will start tracking mileage and see what I get.

Anyway. I am starting to prep the go kart for the body. I have the weather and bulb seal in place. I have also installed the trunk hinge (figured that would be hard to put on after the body was on). Removed the side pipes and roll bar. The next few days I will try to finish some trimming on the body (cockpit edges and wheel lips). Hopefully I get the body on in the next few weeks. This will allow me to install all the parts, get a temporary tag, do some real road testing, get a certified weight, and get an inspection. This will all lead up to registration. My goal is to have the car registered in April. I would like to then put a couple hundreds miles on the car while in gel coat. This will allow me to do a shake down and make sure I don't want to make any major changes.

Sorry no pictures. Not much exciting to photograph. I will have some pics when the body assembly starts.

[srobinsonx2]

Week 24 is done. 367 hours total to this point.

Well, I decided I am done with the go kart phase. I only put about 10 miles on the car while in go kart. I live in a small neighborhood and did about all the testing I could. Everything worked well at the limited speeds I got to in my small neighborhood "track". I need to get this thing out on the open road for some real tests. So far I only have a few small mechanical issues to resolve. They are as follows:

1. I installed a pressure gauge in the fuel line as it connects to the rail for the carb. I verified the pressure the 8-10 times I have cranked and run the engine. So that needs to come off and I will fab up a small section of braided line to go from the regulator directly to the fuel rail. Should be pretty easy. I am just waiting on some -6 AN hose ends from Summit.

2. I installed a new fuel pump. The first one (a Summit G3136) started leaking. It appeared to be leaking around the seal on the bottom of the pump. I chalked it up to infant mortality. Got that replaced and the second one looks good so far. Time will tell but I will be a little nervous until I get some miles on the pump.

3. I bought an air cleaner. A K&N Xstream 66-3060. It is 14 in round and 4 in tall and too big. . I ordered a shorter one from Summit. It is oval and only two inches tall. I think that will work. I have a 347 (302 SBF). So shouldn't have too much trouble finding an air cleaner.

That should be all the mechanical issues for now. So I moved on to mounting the body. This past week I cut the wheel well lips back and did a little trimming of the cockpit. I had put the body on the chasis a few month ago and marked where I need some trimming. So with reckless abandon (actually I was nervous and quite timid at first), I broke out the sanding drum, orbital DA, and sanding block. The cockpit edge was easy. The wheel well lips took some time. I drew a line around the lip where I wanted to stop sanding. That kept me from getting carried away. I used the sanding drum (1 1/2 in) on my drill. That took off the bulk of the material. I then used my DA to get right to the line. I then used a sanding block to finish them off and round the edges. I used 80 grit to do this portion. In hind sight I could have used something a little more aggressive. Took me a couple evenings after work but finally got it knocked out. They still need some work, especially around the bottom where they transition into the bottom lip. Not sure how to finish those so I decided to wait and think on that. It shouldn't affect the gel coat test mode. Here are some pics. Let me know if I need to change something here.
Front wheel lip

Rear of the front wheel lip


Quick jacks were next. I used the Finish line grommets and tubes up front. I had to enlarge the holes up front for the grommets to fit. I did with my dremel tool and took it slow. I used the grommet as a template and all worked out. I have the ********** parts for the back didn't put them on right now. I will need to cut the tubes back and was running out of steam with cutting and grinding. Based on pics and instructions from other on this site, I had previously installed a bolt and coupler nut prior to installing the fuel tank. That will allow me to remove the quick jacks without removing the tank. I put the FFR parts on the back for now. Those will get change in the next few weeks.
Front Quick Jacks

Rear quick jacks


I also got the hood mounted. I had do the trimming and fitment. That took a while. I used the same 80 grit sandpaper on my DA and sanding block. I just took my time, marked where I wanted to trim. It took my a few iterations but I thought I could always take off more but putting it back on would be much harder. The hood hinge went together ok. Some of the shoulder bolts stuck out to far, in other words the shoulder was too long. I used washer to get the hinge parts to fit better. Not snug but removed the slop. I still need to do some tweaking on the hinge to get the hood perfectly lined up. I will do that later this week. Here are some pics of the hood along with the hood pins.



That last picture is where I finished this weekend. Hopefully I can get the windshield and doors done this next week. If all goes well, I should be able to get a temporary tag in April and be able to drive the car on the open road. It is coming together bit by bit.

[srobinsonx2]

I haven't posted an update in a couple of weeks. I have been feverishly working on completing the car so I can start my "shake down" period. Like I have mentioned, I would like to get at least a couple hundred miles on the car to identify any issues before I start stripping parts and begin body work. My goal was to have the car complete (sans paint), insured, and registered (temporary) before April 1st. It looks like I will be close but I might make it. HOPEFULLY!!!

I only have a couple of items to complete to be road worthy. I need to install my Metco drive shaft loop, carb spacer/insulator, and the side view mirror. The carb spacer I am using is from Quick Fuel called the Quick Cool Insulator.
https://www.quickfueltechnology.com/...insulator.html

Hopefully it will help with some warm start issues I am having. If not then I will investigate further. I have decided to replace the FFR stock side view mirror with one that clamps on the windshield frame. I saw others doing that and I think I like that better. It is just a small 4" peep mirror. It should arrive tomorrow.

I really only need the registration. In Texas they have a temporary (30 day) registration that I am going to try and get this week. Anyway, I will try and post a more thorough update later. In the mean time here is a photo of the cars current state.

[bobl]

I can't believe how fast you're coming along! In case you didn't know, you can renew that 30 day tag up to 3 times. I got the first one and drove it in gel coat, then got another after it was finished until I got the final registration. It was pretty easy to register, just get all the forms filled out correctly, inspection and take the build manual with you. You'll have to explain to them how to do it most likely!

You going to make it to San Marcos? Hope to see you. I'm heading down in the morning.

Bob

[srobinsonx2]

Well, week 27 is over and I am going to consider the car mechnically complete. I only have the side louvers left to install and I will do those when I have the body off for bodywork. After 27 weeks I have 405.5 hours on the build. My target was 300 hours at this stage or six months. I just barely made the six months but missed my targeted hours by 30%. OOPS! But I blame you guys. You all started talking about shiny extras and posting cools pictures. It is not my fault.

Not much actual building took place the past week or two. I have been driving and tinkering with the car. Most of the tinkering was with the carb. I had a number of issues that seemed to change each time I started the car. First was hard starting then warm starting issues. I read a thread called Carb Tuning 101. I read it 3-4 times, got my plan on starting from scratch and then dug in. I set the primary t-slot to be a perfect square. Look at me talking like I know what I am doing. I have a Quick Fuel 750 SS. The t-slots in the primary barrels (I think that is what they are called) were not the same height from the bottom of the carb so I set the blades where only the "lower" one showed a square. I also opened the secondary just slightly by adjusting the allen screw under the baseplate. I only opened the secondaries so I could just barely see the bottom of the t-slot in the secondary barrel. I then set all the idle mix screws 1 1/2 turn out. Mounted the carb back on the car and went for a start. I have an air gap intake and from what I have read they can be difficult to get to idle when cold. I ignored this issue for now by feathering the gas pedal for 30 seconds to a minute until the engine would idle. Didn't idle great but would stay running at about 800-850 rpm. I was using my timing light to monitor the rpms. I then adjusted each idle mix screw an 1/8 of turn until I got to about 950 rpm. It happened that I had to turn the screws in to get the rpms to increase. When I turned them in for the final time the rpms dropped slightly and turned them back out and left them. It certainly sounded much better after this set up than ever before. Not an expert but I was happy. Over the next few days I adjusted the choke and high idle screw to get the engine to start and idle from cold. The engine will now start and idle from cold. It normally idles (kind of rough) at about 1100 and slowly increases to 1500 until it is warm (close to 150 F). At that point I can bump the gas, the carb comes off high idle, and idles nicely at 950 rpm. I am happy for now and will tackle the rest of the tuning when I get an O2 bunge installed in the exhaust. I plan to do this when the body is off for paint. That will give me something to do beside worry about the body.

I have been driving the car and really enjoying it. It is just in gel coat but still fun. I don't want to show it off too much in gel coat. I had rather everyone see it for the first time in all it's colorfully final glory. So my plan is the get the car registered and start disassembly for body work. For those in Texas, there is a great reference in the regional section of this forum that explains the Texas process. I am using that as my guide. I took the car to get a certified weight tonight. I took it to the closest truck stop I could find with a weigh scale. It was about 25 miles away. So I got to really drive the car a ways. This was my first long jaunt away from home base and I was a little nervous. I don't know why because the car ran great and I had no issues. The car weight 2500 lbs (including me and a half tank of gas). So now I am going to collect my necessary paper work, set up an inspection, and try to get this thing officially legal. I hope to get that completed before easter. If that happens then I will be able to start body work in May like I had planned. I plan on tackling the body work myself. There are so many great threads and inspirational stories on here that I am going to tackle this part myself. I found a painter that agreed to paint. Another member, bobL, did the same thing with the same painter and his car turned out beautiful. Hopefully I can duplicate his end results.

So, I have officially broke the 100 mile mark on the odometer, I have a short list of things to fix after the body is off and at the painter, registration is in sight, and I will start body work soon. Hopefully the next time I post I will have a Texas License plate en route and asking questions about body work. In the meantime, evidence of the 100 miles.

[Gordon Levy]

Nice, hammer the throttle yet?

[RoadRacer]

Nice job Shannon, Fun times! Get some more miles on that before you rip it apart

[srobinsonx2]

I made a step towards Title and registration. In Texas there are a couple of ways to register one of these roadsters. I have been following the advice in the following thread by Dave O.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...tion-Completed

It has been helpful so far. Part of the process in Texas is to get a safety inspection by an ASE master technician. It took me a little digging to find someone that could do it but found this shop...http://www.thousandoaksautomotive.com/

Well, I passed. I was kind of nervous about this part. The shop was great and really nice. They were actually pretty complimentary of my work so just a little bonus to make me feel good.

I have all the paper work collected and plan to go to the Tax Assessors office next week to attempt title and registration. Once that is done I will start disassembly and bodywork. I am exciting to start this next part so hopefully the registration goes well. If all goes as planned I will start body work in May.

PS. I have 187 miles on the roadster so far with no real issues.

[srobinsonx2]

Well, I am now legal registered and titled. On April 12th I took all my paperwork (neatly organized) to the local tax assessors office. I brought RTB #004-12 to help walk through the process. The folks at the office were really nice but had never done this before. We were able to figure it out, paid the taxes, and about 20 minutes later I walked out with my temporary tags. I have since received the title in the mail and should get the plates in a couple of weeks (got custom plates). Anyway, I have that part behind me and only have bodywork and paint left.

I have put about 200 miles on the car. I have started a punch list of things to look at and fix while I have the body off for paint. So far it is a short:
- Insulate all holes, cracks, crevices that could possibly allow hot air to enter the footbox/cockpit. I thought I had all these but obviously not.
- Add footbox ventilation. I am probably going to go the powered route with air ducts from the brake vents at the front of the body. I have good plans from this wonderful site.
- Center dash support. It moves a little. Nothing bad but I was it to be solid.
- I have something loose on the passenger side footbox. It makes a slight rattle at times and is annoying
- Recheck all moving parts on the chasis and regrease
- Remove header, apply copper gasket maker, and reinstall with vibe lock bolts (Percy's is the brand name, I think??)
- Install side vent bolts. I am going to use the mounting method Edwardb used in his build thread.

My next step is to start bodywork. I am going to start another thread for that and will put the link here one I get it going.

[srobinsonx2]

Here is a link to my bodywork thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...sonx2-Bodywork

[RoadRacer]

Congrats on getting legal - a big step! Doesn't sound too bad a process..

[srobinsonx2]

Well, I got the body work done. Here is a link to the body work thread

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...sonx2-Bodywork

Here is picture of the paint



Now that I have the paint completed, I moved the chassis back over to the large stall of the garage and started on the carpet. For adhesive I am using the 3M 77 suggested in the manual. On the areas where there might be wear or I need them removable I am going to use a combo of carpet tape and velcro. I will document that as I go. I read a bunch of threads about different methods but this seemed the easiest and is working so far. I was a little concerned about how the carpet would adhere to the Lizard Skin insulation I applied. So far it is holding up. I will let everyone know how it works down the road. Just a couple hours of work this evening.



So far I have logged 407 hours on the build and 226 on the body work and paint. That is a total of 633 hours. Hopefully I can get this thing wrapped up in the next week of two.

[srobinsonx2]

So I got going on final assembly. Nothing really ground breaking just putting everything back together that I have assembled at least twice before.

I wrapped up the carpet yesterday. I then prepped the chassis for body installation. I got some help from a friend and we got it on. Hopefully for the last time. Also installed the front quick jacks, Mike Everson's radiator aluminum panel, as well as Mike's front license plate bracket. Here is picture



It went together well. Here is another picture of the cockpit.



Sorry for not a lot of details. I am not doing anything new. Everything is either well documented elsewhere or pretty self explanatory. After all the bodywork documentation I feel like I am being lazy by not providing more data. Hopefully I can finish up this week. It will be nice to drive a little after all this work.

[srobinsonx2]

Well,

I have been wrapping up the final details. This past week I have accomplished the following:
- Hooked up and checked electrical. I had one issue. The drivers's side headlight high beam did not work. A bad connection in the weatherpack I installed. Easy fix.\
- Installed my side pipe heat shield. I got them from Drummermike. They look great and pretty easy to install.
- Fixed a couple of clear coat issues that I discovered. Just a couple of runs and nothing too exciting.

During this past weeks work, I found that the driver's side side pipe was too close to the body. An order to Mark Reynolds at Breeze and that was solved. He quickly packaged and shipped a couple of exhaust wedges that arrived today. I painted and installed the right one and I am now all set. That was the last major piece I was needing. While I waited for the part, I decided to buy a floor lift. My floor jack and jackstands are less than ideal, especially with the body on. I don't have a lot of clearance and had to make a couple of "lifts" in order to get the jack stands in place. I wasn't real comfortable with that set up. And I was looking for a good excuse to buy a lift. I bought a Quick Jack BL5000SLX. Here is a picture during set up.



Here is a picture half way up.



I used it today and it is great. I wish I would have bought one of these at the beginning of the build. It gives great access to the entire car.

I also bought another toy. My grease gun was a cheap one I picked up a while back. I decided to try a pnuematic grease gun. I works great and is much easier. It allows me to keep one hand on the grease gun hose while applying grease.



With my new grease gun and lift, I accomplished three items today. I got everything greased and all the front end and rear end hardware checked. All was tight and I should be good to go. While I had the wheels off, I used some of the left over black bed liner I had from earlier in the build and put another coat on the wheel wells. I thought it would ensure a little more protection and give the wheel wells a finished look. I got the wheels back on and ready to go.

The only really build item I have left is to finish off the quick jacks. They are installed but I just have nylon lock nuts on them now. I order some acorn nuts from McMaster-Carr. They should be here early this next week. That will be an easy item to knock out. Once I get this done, I will call it good. I am excited to start driving but the weather is not cooperating. Hurricane Harvey is keeping everything wet. I will just have to wait until this blows over. I am getting close. Graduation thread will be coming soon.

Long but fun road. I have been at this for about a year now. I have learned a lot and made some new friends. Now it is time to DRIVE!!!!!.

[srobinsonx2]

Harvey has moved out of the San Antonio area. The sun came out and the cobra decided to come out of it's den and warm in the sun. It's old skin has been shed and the new scale color looks fantastic if I do say so myself. The snake has been hibernating for four long months. The metamorphosis is over and it was time to let the snake roam.





After a long wet weekend, well it rained but I stayed dry and busy in the garage, I could take it no longer. I needed to get the car out and go for a drive. I made one final inspection, eased in the driver's seat, and slid the shiny silver key in the ignition. I lightly touch the gas pedal to reset the high idle on the carb then turned the key. The engine immediately roared to life. It normally takes my engine about a minute to warm up. Once the water temp is up to 150 F, I am good to go. I made a quick loop around the neighborhood, mostly to show the usual garage visitors I was done, but I told my wife it was to give it one final test before her maiden voyage. The short jaunt well great without issues so I then made a short run of about 10 miles. Came home to take the wife for her first ride. She has been nervous about this for a while. She says it is loud, low to the ground, and looks dangerous. She was waiting in the driveway when I returned from the test drive. I think she was excited, just didn't want to admit it. I helped her in, and get strapped up. She jokingly mocked the necessity of the 5 point harness. But, I saw her take a couple of selfies that was mostly harness. I think she secretly thought it was kind of neat. I made a short loop with her. I took it easy at first and she seemed to enjoy it. I only made one "spirited" acceleration and I saw a little smile. When all was said and done she said it wasn't as bad as she thought. We will see how the next drive goes. Regardless, I love it.

A few small items to complete and I will call it good........for now. I am still waiting on the acorn nuts for the quick jacks. I also ordered a H3R extinguisher. Hopefully that comes in this week.

[Jacob]

congrats...you've done well!

[RR20AC]

Glad your safe from the storm, your car looks awesome and can't wait to do it. My wife will expect full throttle as we ride the Harley that way. Nice weather there now. I'm hoping I can enjoy mine before weather sets in here.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Ya' done good

Jeff

[srobinsonx2]

Still working on a few items. It feels like I could continue to tinker forever. When I first started this journey, I wondered why everyone said these cars are never truly done. Well, I think I know what they mean. Anyway, I had a few items to finish up.

Installed a 1/2" phenolic spacer below my carb. I hope this solves a warm start issue I am having. It seems like once my engine is warm, it starts fine if I kill it and then restart it quickly (2-3 minutes). If I let it sit for 10-15 minutes and then try to restart it, I have to turn the engine over quite a bit for it to start. I don't pump the gas pedal as that seems to exacerbate the issue. Cold engine is fine. I also notice that the carb bowls are empty after a drive and checking the engine after it has cooled down. So hopefully this will help. Installed easy.



Secondly, I finished off the quick jacks. I bought some acorn nuts (cap nuts) from McMaster-Carr to fit my 7/16" bolts and all thread. I used split lock washer under each nut. I used these for two reasons. The split washer will keep the nuts for backing off (obvious) and they also have a smaller outside diameter. These gave a little cleaner appearance than a flat washer.



I also installed a fire extinguisher. I bought the H3R Halon extinguisher with the flat surface mounting bracket and matching chrome ring. Kind of pricey but it looks nice and is good insurance. I know it won't solve any big issues, but small oil or electrical fires can potentially be addressed before they get out of hand. And it looks cool. I mounted mine under the dash because I have my battery cut off switch mounted on the angled aluminum piece where most mount an extinguisher. I might have done this different if I had to do it over but it will work and looks fine. I might spring for a larger halon extinguisher to put in the trunk but for now I feel a little better.