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Thread: Anyone developed a good pre first start or pre go cart checklist?

  1. #1
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Anyone developed a good pre first start or pre go cart checklist?

    I am a fan of checklist. Use them all the time at work.
    I was wondering if anyone has developed a checklist of their own that is pretty inclusive of everything to be done prior to first start or go cart? If so would you mind sharing?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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  2. #2
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    Check everything.

    Have a buddy there with you just in case something goes sideways who knows something about safety. Fire extinguisher for fuel fire is a must have . I prefer an outside start. Nothing better than sunshine to see things going right or wrong. You are looking for trouble and not the crazy engine rumbling! And yes you will rev the engine. Really look for hot wires, bubbles on hoses, leaks, watch your gauges (do they respond). Its not that complicated of a system. Run for a bit, check all. Re-start and get up to temp, fan should kick in, check gauges. Shut off, look for bad things and drips on the ground.

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Obviously, fluids in all the right places. Engine oil, coolant, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, differential fluid. With the Coyote, and wired the way yours is with the clutch switches in the recommended locations, the Coyote PCM/PDB controlling the fuel pump and start, if it has fuel in the tank and cranks it's going to start. As complicated as it all seems when you're putting it together, it really is about that simple. Some prime the oil in the engine. But since it came from the factory with oil and was (presumably) test run and isn't that old, I found most didn't think it was necessary. I didn't. It's recommended to prime the power steering pump. The DBW should initialize when you power it up. You'll hear it and can test by moving the pedal and you'll hear the throttle plate moving. But like all modern EFI cars, not necessary to touch the accelerator when starting. Fill the cooling pressure tank when it's cold. Keep an eye on it and top off after each run. With the Mustang plumbing you're using, it couldn't be easier. It will remove air from the system by itself. You should see oil pressure indication almost immediately when it starts. The cooling fan should run when it gets up to operating temperature. As others have said, watch for leaks (fuel, oil, coolant, etc.) and watch your gauges. I too have a fire extinguisher handy, but (fortunately!) have never broken the seal.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  4. #4
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Thanks! Good info
    Do you normally put the side pipes on prior to first start?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  5. #5
    Senior Member Paparazzi's Avatar
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    Everything you need to check for first start should be safety related - yours and the car's. i.e., no fuel leaks, good oil pressure. Once running, you get into cooling - make sure she doesn't overheat or leak coolant. Don't fill the gas tank - just enough to get some fuel through and run. Disconnect the ignition and turn the engine over to check oil pressure before a real start.

    Have as many eyes on the car as you can - from all angles. Have a fire extinguisher and damp towels to hand and tell your helpers to watch for smoke, sparks, flames, etc. Clear the area around the car - no flammable items close by.

    I wouldn't bother with side pipes - I didn't.

    Lastly, and arguably one of the most important considerations. Have a helper record the event - it's a major milestone and one that will bring a smile to your face for years to come.
    FFR6243RD, MkIII, 3.55, IRS, pin-drive width, carb'd 351W, T5, 1/2 dropped butt, Fortes hydraulic clutch, deep dish AC-III wheels by Team III. 9 year build; NY registered 7/18/2016 - "Sweet 16" winner at 2016 Taconic State Nationals 5 days later ... in 'rough as hell' gel coat for the foreseeable future! Build Blog - Leave me a comment!

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  6. #6
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    The Build Manual has some suggestions re rolling chassis checks.

    There will be some "smoking" (from headers, mainly) but it should dissipate within 10 seconds; if not, shut it down and investigate. Keep in mind that electrical shorts may "smoke" also.

    I would install the pipes for first start; it will be somewhat quieter, and not detract you/helpers from the task at hand and also allow you to better hear if something is amiss.

    Don't just power up and start; turn ignition to ON and let the fuel pump run while checking all fuel connections for leaks, including the pump and sender connections under the trunk deck (leave the covers off).

    Discuss with your back-up folks where fires may initiate and what to do (or not do).

    Finally, don't first start in your garage; roll it out into the driveway first, and chock the wheels.

    All will likely be fine. Just be prepared and ENJOY.

    Cheers, Dale
    Last edited by DaleG; 09-30-2016 at 02:53 PM.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

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  7. #7

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    GoDadGo's Top 10 List For First Starts Of Any Home Built Hot Rods!

    1. Limit Fuel Source By Using A 3 Gallon Remote Outboard Motor Tank! (One Gallon Of Fuel Only Please)
    2. Make Sure That The Tank Has A Quick Disconnect At The Tank!
    3. Push Car Into Driveway Away From Home & Other Cars!
    4. Get A Really Big Fire Extinguisher That Is Designed For Fuel & Grease Fires!
    5. At High Noon, On A Sunny Day, Start Car & Look For Leaks!
    6. Have Friends Look For Leaks!
    7. Have Family Look For Leaks!
    8. Have Pets Look For Leaks!
    9. Turn Car Off If It Leaks!
    10. Disconnect Fuel Tank & Use Big Fire Extinguisher If Car Catches On Fire!

    If These Helpful Tid-Bits Don't Help Then; Run Forest Run!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 09-30-2016 at 05:21 PM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaleG View Post
    The Build Manual has some suggestions re rolling chassis checks.

    There will be some "smoking" (from headers, mainly) but it should dissipate within 10 seconds; if not, shut it down and investigate. Keep in mind that electrical shorts may "smoke" also.

    I would install the pipes for first start; it will be somewhat quieter, and not detract you/helpers from the task at hand and also allow you to better hear if something is amiss.

    Don't just power up and start; turn ignition to ON and let the fuel pump run while checking all fuel connections for leaks, including the pump and sender connections under the trunk deck (leave the covers off).

    Discuss with your back-up folks where fires may initiate and what to do (or not do).

    Finally, don't first start in your garage; roll it out into the driveway first, and chock the wheels.

    All will likely be fine. Just be prepared and ENJOY.

    Cheers, Dale
    All good points. I agree. Install the side pipes. I've started my Coyote (and previous SBF build) with open headers and it's ridiculously loud. I agree it could detract and would make it nearly impossible to communicate. If you insist, warn your neighbors and wear ear protection.

    Just one small difference with the 2015 Coyote setup. The fuel pump no longer runs continuously with the key in the "on" position and the engine not running. The pump runs briefly when you turn the key to "on" but then shuts off. My guess is that's set to run for a certain duration. There is a pressure sensor in the fuel rail, but the documentation says it's not used in the crate motor. It runs long enough to show 55 psi on the fuel regulator, and then drops if you don't go ahead and start the engine. There's enough pressure to check for leaks. Just don't expect the pump to keep running until the engine actually starts. I've communicated with several other 2015 Coyote builds, and all report the same behavior.

    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    GoDadGo's Top 10 List For First Starts Of Any Home Built Hot Rods!

    1. Limit Fuel Source By Using A 3 Gallon Remote Outboard Motor Tank! (One Gallon Of Fuel Only Please)
    2. Make Sure That The Tank Has A Quick Disconnect At The Tank!
    3. Push Car Into Driveway Away From Home & Other Cars!
    4. Get A Really Big Fire Extinguisher That Is Designed For Fuel & Grease Fires!
    5. At High Noon, On A Sunny Day, Start Car & Look For Leaks!
    6. Have Friends Look For Leaks!
    7. Have Family Look For Leaks!
    8. Have Pets Look For Leaks!
    9. Turn Car Off If It Leaks!
    10. Disconnect Fuel Tank & Use Big Fire Extinguisher If Car Catches On Fire!

    If These Helpful Tid-Bits Don't Help Then; Run Forest Run!
    Good suggestions there. Except a remote fuel tank isn't practical for the Coyote and high pressure in-tank fuel pump. It would be difficult to duplicate. Turning the key off would also turn off the fuel pump and stop fuel flow.
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-01-2016 at 05:48 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Here's a link to the BluePrint Engines installation guide. It has a few steps to take during the startup process. Some of these apply to a FFR first start.

    http://www.blueprintengines.com/imag...ation_4-12.pdf
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  10. #10
    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    Two quick questions. What is the best material to have at hand to soak up spills? Has anyone experienced a fire on first start?

  11. #11
    Senior Member 6t8dart's Avatar
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    Biggest thing i learned over the years, get the static ignition timing right before you start, make sure your fuel is getting to the intake (carb, FI, etc), make sure your spark is sparking. Check all your fluids again!

    Safety!
    1. Make sure the rear wheels are up off the ground and chock your front tires in case it accidentally slips into gear.

    2. Have plan if you have a major fuel leak, how to stop the fuel pump, and exit strategy if it all goes to hell; open all doors to the garage, fire extinguisher hand and pin pulled, a friend or wife standing by with a cell phone to call 911, and a water hose turned on and ready to go, just in case its you that are on fire. (had a co-worker pour gas into a hot running mower years ago, he ended up with burns on 25% of his body, but a neighbor next door with a hose put him out, could have been worse).

    3. With that said, make sure your insurance is active and covers mishaps before you start it.

  12. #12
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6t8dart View Post
    Biggest thing i learned over the years, get the static ignition timing right before you start, make sure your fuel is getting to the intake (carb, FI, etc), make sure your spark is sparking. Check all your fluids again!

    Safety!
    1. Make sure the rear wheels are up off the ground and chock your front tires in case it accidentally slips into gear.

    2. Have plan if you have a major fuel leak, how to stop the fuel pump, and exit strategy if it all goes to hell; open all doors to the garage, fire extinguisher hand and pin pulled, a friend or wife standing by with a cell phone to call 911, and a water hose turned on and ready to go, just in case its you that are on fire. (had a co-worker pour gas into a hot running mower years ago, he ended up with burns on 25% of his body, but a neighbor next door with a hose put him out, could have been worse).

    3. With that said, make sure your insurance is active and covers mishaps before you start it.
    Interesting thought about the insurance. Up to this point my pile of parts has just been covered by my homeowners policy. I guess it is time to get insurance on this vehicle.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  13. #13
    Senior Member karlos's Avatar
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    These are all good suggestions. Just did my first start last Saturday, so I thought I'd throw in my observations.

    I had a *lot* of smoke from the oils burning off the inside of the headers and side pipes. Fairly noxious stuff. Two days later and my garage is still stinky. If I had it to do over I would get some cheap aluminized dryer ducting and route that stuff outdoors. Your eyes/lungs will thank you.

    Would also recommend you have all the tools you're going to need set out and ready to go. Timing light, distributor wrench, allen wrenches for fuel regulator and idle speed, etc. Don't want to be running around looking for the right wrench when your idle speed is way too high or too low.

    And beware the hot side pipes. Although I thought to myself to be careful, I'm sporting a nice burn on my calf nonetheless. Long pants probably would've been a smarter choice.

    Best of luck!

    -Karl

  14. #14
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    I'm just a normal backyard mechanic, it's no different than any other project car I r built. Just watch for leaks oil press and temp. After that clutch reverse then first. Oh and brakes lol. " go dad go" was there when I started mine. Karted it for about 6 miles before it was aligned. Night and day!! Def record the start. I would say just do it.
    Mk4 # 8834 delivered 03/20/16 2015 IRS wildwood brake upgrade, 18"x9" front 18"X11" rear halibrand wheels, 390 FE, tko600

  15. #15
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    This may be helpful since I have the same motor/exhaust as you and I just did first start on Sunday. It's a simple checklist:

    1. Fill all fluids in car, clean floor to make sure you can see leaks
    2. 1 gallon of fuel is plenty
    3. Battery connection, family member with fire ext. handy and video recorder
    4. Car off the ground on jack stands
    5. Clutch and brake in, start car. It will cycle for a while until it pulls fuel into the motor. This is actually good as it pre-builds oil pressure.
    6. Once it fires check oil pressure & tach. Your tach will need to be programmed to 1 pulse per the instructions to read. Oil pressure will be very high (80-100), this is okay. It will come down after it's warm
    7. Check for leaks while running
    8. Set fuel pressure to 55 while running (note, you'll need to have tools ready for this). If pressure is low the computer will compensate but it may sound different/not run right
    9. Shut it down, check for leaks again.
    10. Check for ECU codes.
    11. Check fluid levels (P/S, coolant, oil)
    (note, try not to rev it/put a load on the motor first start. Let the computer calibrate itself)

    Once completed, repeat and let the motor come up to temp until the fan comes on. This should heat cycle the block and help flush any air out of the coolant system. After that you should be good to go.
    Last edited by Duke; 10-05-2016 at 01:05 PM.

  16. #16
    Tech Support, FFR Courtnie Provencher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    GoDadGo's Top 10 List For First Starts Of Any Home Built Hot Rods!

    1. Limit Fuel Source By Using A 3 Gallon Remote Outboard Motor Tank! (One Gallon Of Fuel Only Please)
    2. Make Sure That The Tank Has A Quick Disconnect At The Tank!
    3. Push Car Into Driveway Away From Home & Other Cars!
    4. Get A Really Big Fire Extinguisher That Is Designed For Fuel & Grease Fires!
    5. At High Noon, On A Sunny Day, Start Car & Look For Leaks!
    6. Have Friends Look For Leaks!
    7. Have Family Look For Leaks!
    8. Have Pets Look For Leaks!
    9. Turn Car Off If It Leaks!
    10. Disconnect Fuel Tank & Use Big Fire Extinguisher If Car Catches On Fire!

    If These Helpful Tid-Bits Don't Help Then; Run Forest Run!
    I found myself literally laughing out loud at this post...
    "Have pets look for leaks." and "Use big fire extinguisher if car catches on fire" really got me.
    Last edited by Courtnie Provencher; 10-05-2016 at 02:03 PM.
    Courtnie Provencher
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  17. #17
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Thanks Duke. Great info and very timely. I am a day or two away!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  18. #18
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    Scott -

    I have been adding to the list in the build manual for my first start. I appreciate this thread, as I have a few more to add!

    I look forward to your first start post!

    Regards,

    Steve
    Last edited by WIS89; 10-06-2016 at 11:36 AM.

  19. #19
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Hey Scott. You got me to thinking, so I wrote down some items. From an "Untidie" to a "Deltoid", see if this works.

    Checklist.txt

    (Sorry about the formatting, it wouldn't let me upload the .pdf)
    Last edited by boat737; 10-07-2016 at 01:28 PM. Reason: Revised Checklist upload.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  20. #20
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Hey Scott. You got me to thinking, so I wrote down some items. From an "Untidie" to a "Deltoid", see if this works.

    Attachment 59393

    (Sorry about the formatting, it wouldn't let me upload the .pdf)
    Great checklist! THANKS
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  21. #21
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Should have mentioned, it's for Carburetor, 3-link, setup. Old skool ya know. (like the steam gauges on the -8)
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  22. #22
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    Send me a PM with your email. I have an Excel version if your interested.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

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