Shorty headers/ J pipe install question

[wareaglescott]

When installing the J pipes to the headers I have a couple questions:
1. Does the gap where my finger is close completely up? Dont want to force anything or over tighten
2. I don't appear to have a gasket or anything in the kit.(I do have the J pipe to side pipe gaskets) Does this just go metal to metal or do you put anything in between?
3. The bolts thread up into the header flange but I have no nuts included. Should I add a nut, thread lock or anything?

Thanks

[BEAR-AvHistory]

No gasket. Ball section seals against header by pressure. Joint can loosen due to the weight of the side pipe. Good plan to support the J-pipe by a link to the square chassis tube above it.

Some exhaust hanger material & turn buckles work well. No leaks in over a year. Prior to supporting had to reset it a couple times in 6 months.

[wareaglescott]

No gasket. Ball section seals against header by pressure. Joint can loosen due to the weight of the side pipe. Good plan to support the J-pipe by a link to the square chassis tube above it.

Some exhaust hanger material & turn buckles work well. No leaks in over a year. Prior to supporting had to reset it a couple times in 6 months.

Ok thanks and what about tightening to close the gap?

[Railroad]

I am not working on my kit yet, but have done a lot of exhaust on Ford hot rods, which use the ball and cup seal. I usually paint the mating surfaces with a light touch of anti seize. I do this so, in theory the mating surfaces will move to their optimal seat position without binding and requiring more re tightening. I have used this with 02s and cats, no issues. Hope this helps. I pull the gaps closed and snug them down. You can watch the flanges. You do not need to bend them for it to seal.

[wareaglescott]

I am not working on my kit yet, but have done a lot of exhaust on Ford hot rods, which use the ball and cup seal. I usually paint the mating surfaces with a light touch of anti seize. I do this so, in theory the mating surfaces will move to their optimal seat position without binding and requiring more re tightening. I have used this with 02s and cats, no issues. Hope this helps. I pull the gaps closed and snug them down. You can watch the flanges. You do not need to bend them for it to seal.

Thanks but I am a little confused with this answer. You say you pull the gaps closed but you don't need to bend them for it to seal. The only way it is going to close is by bending them isn't it? Can I get some clarification please?

[Jeff Kleiner]

The flanges do not meet one another Scott.

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

The flanges do not meet one another Scott.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff!

[Ray W.]

The factory set up on my 4.6 sohc used a bronze crush-gasket, for lack of a better term, between the ball and the pipe flange on the driver's side, and I've used one on my j-pipe as well. (The passenger side has a gasket sandwiched between two flanges-no ball) I don't see the bronze lip in the picture above, and it may not be necessary for war-eagle's engine combination.

[Redwein]

The gap between the flanges won't close. You simply need to make sure the ball is seated firmly in the socket and tightened enough that there is no exhaust leak. You certainly don't want/need the flanges to meet.

[cgundermann]

During my first start - I had a nice seal at that junction, however, after a couple of start cycles and go karting - she leaked on the passenger side. Just tightened and it dissipated...

[wareaglescott]

thanks everyone

[Railroad]

Thanks but I am a little confused with this answer. You say you pull the gaps closed but you don't need to bend them for it to seal. The only way it is going to close is by bending them isn't it? Can I get some clarification please?

I confused the bolt flanges with the ball and cup. The ball and cup will mate up. The flanges are not positioned to touch. You would loose your clamping ability. Sorry for my misstating the terms.