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Thread: DanielsDM 818R

  1. #41
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielsDM View Post
    Time for an update.
    Been working on the dry sump system. Pump is a Johnson's HTP 4 stage (3 scavage + 1 pressure). Just barely fits in the AC compressor locations.

    My design extends the hose connection to the front of the motor so the hoses stay further away from the exhaust.
    The filter will be moved to remote location the factory heat exchanger removed.

    Next is temporarily mount the body to figure out where to put the DS tank and oil/water heat exchanger, and well... everything else.
    Hey Dan,
    With the engine movement, you are really close to the frame with the DS pulley shaft.
    I did a video with stock motor and trans mounts and got excessive engine movement.
    You will need stronger mounts and maybe a dogbone.

    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 07-29-2017 at 10:35 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Hey Dan,
    With the engine movement, you are really close to the frame with the DS pulley shaft.
    I did a video with stock motor and trans mounts and got excessive engine movement.
    You will need stronger mounts and maybe a dogbone.

    https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=9cPHXm8AXkc
    Thanks for the heads up Bob. I plan on using very stiff engine mounts, maybe solid. Even so there will be some flex in the chassis and mounts, the 1/4" gap may go away under hard braking. Something to pay attention to. BTW the video link isn't working for me.


    Quote Originally Posted by biknman View Post
    Excellently! You sir set the standards for all others to follow!
    Thanks.
    818R Build date 10/31/15

  3. #43
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    Don't do solid mounts! you will loosen every bolt in the car. Torque Solution and Perrin mounts both have 75A durometer bushings, which is the stiffest I could find without being solid, and our engine doesn't move.

  4. #44
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    Cusco engine and trans mounts did the trick for me.

  5. #45
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by RetroRacing View Post
    Don't do solid mounts! you will loosen every bolt in the car. Torque Solution and Perrin mounts both have 75A durometer bushings, which is the stiffest I could find without being solid, and our engine doesn't move.
    I have had solid aluminum motor and transmission mounts for over 3,000 miles now. The stock mounts were ridiculous. The drivetrain needs the dogbone if you run stock mounts. I've had no issues so far with things rattling loose. Lock nuts and medium threadlocker must be doing their job. It's really not that noticeable. I mean, the car is not quiet to begin with, so all you get is a bit more drivetrain whine.

    https://www.aluminati.us/products/al...d-motor-mounts

    https://www.aluminati.us/collections...id-trans-mount

  6. #46
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    Worked on addressing the open tube frame issue where the main hoop sets on an open ended square tube.

    I milled some 1.5" long plugs that match the inside dimensions of the tube
    IMG_0697.JPG

    IMG_0698-2.JPG
    After some grinding and file work on the tube and plugs they fit nicely. Next step weld them in place.
    IMG_0700-1.JPG

    IMHO, this is a better solution than simply welding a plate to the end.
    818R Build date 10/31/15

  7. #47
    Senior Member
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    Nice job on the pan.

  8. #48
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    Thanks.
    818R Build date 10/31/15

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