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Thread: Steve's MK IV Coyote Build

  1. #1
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Steve's MK IV Coyote Build

    Just what you need, another build thread by a novice.

    After a couple of years of research I finally decided how I wanted to build my Cobra and pulled the trigger.
    MK IV Complete #8901
    Coyote
    TKO600
    IRS
    FFR Power Steering
    Sway bars
    Hydraulic clutch
    Wilwoods
    18"FFR Halibrands
    Stainless pipes & DS roll bar
    Stainless bumpers
    Kirkey low backs

    More than likely, blue with white stripes. I love the various combinations of silvers and black but every time I go to a show, I come back with 200 pictures of blue and white Cobras.

    I took auto shop in high school, back when schools offered shop classes. That should tell you something. My brother and I built, auto crossed, crashed and rebuilt Datsun 510's on shoestring budgets but that was a long, long time ago. This will be a huge step for me. Well outside my comfort zone.

    Why a FFR roadster?
    The Cobra is just so damn cool. Timeless. My tastes have changed over the years but the Cobra has always tugged at me.

    I met the FFR guys at SEMA a couple of years ago. They let me know that tall guys had modified roadsters to fit. That was the bait.
    I went to the Huntington Beach show and sat in Dave's modified MK 3. I was hooked.
    I met a bunch of great people and they answered my questions, let me take notes and photos and were all very encouraging. After that I could not get the idea out of my head.

    So for the next year I read the forum and took notes and tried to determine what I wanted and what I was capable of doing. This forum is FFR's greatest selling tool. This community is unbelievably helpful. Not so with other project forums that I have explored.

    I've wanted a project for a while but I don't weld and I'm no longer fond of rust or junk yards (misguided youth) so that eliminated some muscle car ideas I've had. I have a restored 64 Cadillac convertible but restoration projects are more about sending things out to be done by others. I also wanted something I could do primarily by myself. Removing the door of a 64 Cad is a 3-man job.

    So the stars started to align and my wife was on board so the order went in in May.

    I've been making good progress, just delinquent on starting a thread.

    My first boss at McDonnell Douglas told all of us young engineers, "Don't be too proud to copy good ideas. Proven designs don't kill pilots."
    So if you see me stealing your ideas, it is with that sound engineering principle in mind. I will try to credit those from whom I borrow but I've read so many threads I might have forgotten where the ideas originated. He also told us "that you can't fix a problem unless you know exactly why it failed and that still doesn't guaranty that your fix won't cause greater problems". So with that in mind, if you see me jumping off the tracks and reinventing something, please feel free to intervene. Please!

    I'm having a blast. My wife is still talking to me. I haven't screwed anything up past the point of repair. What more could a guy want?

    I'll add more soon. I think I have the photos figured out.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 03-08-2017 at 12:29 AM.

  2. #2
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Steve,

    1. Look at the Factory Five assembly videos a few times.
    2. Get the manual and read it two or three times, then read it a 4th time just for fun.
    3. Determine if you feel like you need to go the Factory Five Build School if you aren't sure about your skills after you completed steps #1 and #2.
    4. Do an assessment of your work space, tools on hand and be honest with yourself about your abilities.
    5. Make a spreadsheet for the parts you will need to purchase.
    6. Get your garage in order and order your kit.
    7. Do a very detailed inventory when your kit arrives, literally a piece by piece process, to make sure that you have everything you need.
    8. Don't hesitate to ask folks on this forum and the folks at Factory Five Racing for help.
    9. Enjoy The Process & Try To Complete One System At A Time So That You Don't Skip Anything!

    Good luck & welcome to the family!

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-09-2016 at 12:34 PM.

  3. #3
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    Always need new builds! Have fun and post pics.

  4. #4
    Have fun! I have pretty much the same build as you do. I will look forward to following your progress. I don't think anyone could be more of a novice than me and everything is working out pretty well so far. The forum is an amazing resource. Everyone is so helpful. I have decided no question is to stupid to ask and that has been a successful strategy! haha
    I've definitely learned some lessons along the way and tried to include them in my build thread. The most recent being that if you haven't bought a good jack yet then get yourself a low profile one. I recently figured out when I was putting the tires on the concrete for the first time that the 4.5" ride height was not going to work to well with my nice expensive jack that was 6" tall at its lowest point. Now I have 2 nice expensive jacks!!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  5. #5
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    I struggled with the decision between traditional push rod SBF and the Coyote. When I decided on the Coyote, I ordered the engine and the rest of the drive train from Mike Forte at the same time I ordered the kit. No second guessing or going back. The engine arrived from Ford Racing very quickly so I was only able to sit and stare at an empty garage and a lonely Coyote.

    DSCN0898_zpsyj7vtffi.jpg

    They say "nature abhors a vacuum". Same can be said for an empty garage. Every time I turned around there would be new bags and boxes sitting in my future build space. Felt like I was defending turf. Think my wife saw it as a way for me to help get her closet organized.
    DSCN0903_zpsk0coxvdu.jpg

    I guess I could just drop it in the Caddie

    DSCN0899_zpsbpo8cgys.jpg

  6. #6
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    IMG_5111_zpssbhjh9zr.jpg FFR was on schedule for the finished kit and Stewart was pretty accurate with their delivery date.
    Their scheduled delivery date conflicted with something we had planed so the driver juggled the order of his deliveries and it all worked out.

    IMG_1857_zpscwjjjuct.jpg
    Our neighborhood has steep hills and low branches so the driver left his rig at the bottom of the neighborhood and we transferred the boxes into our truck (3 or 4 trips) and then finally lowered the chassis on to a dolly kart.
    IMG_5163_zpse65tr4jl.jpg
    We towed the kart at a nice 3 mph parade pace. Alerted the neighbors that I had a fun project underway.

    IMG_1745_zpssabex9uz.jpg
    The Stewart driver and my son worked their tails off managing the kart through the hills. He said he had handled tougher deliveries but he eared his pay on this one.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    DSCN0957_zpssk2foex5.jpg
    Parts inventoried. Everything checked out with my back order parts list other than a few nuts and bolts and quite honestly, they are probably in here. I read the manual before my kit arrived. Good advice from the forum, but it's a little like reading menu in a foreign language. Fist pass through is confusing but when you see the items and have them in your hands, the manual starts to make a whole lot more sense. Same with the inventory list. I've read where some people took all of the hardware out of the individual bags. Cant imagine doing that. Keep everything bagged.

    Body buck built, elevated and on wheels. Most of the parts stored on dollies under the body. I'm able to store some of the boxes I won't need for a while like seats, wheels, carpets and windshield at my office so that makes things a bit easier.

    IMG_1769_zpsmok7yd0p.jpg

    After inventory and a scheduled vacation, the first parts went on the car about a month after delivery. Proud moment. Lasted about 5 minutes before I realized I had made a few mistakes. The upper control arm was assembled incorrectly by FFR. Scratched my head and read a re-read instructions and looked at forum photos until I realized the mistake was not mine, but of course it was a Friday night and I didn't want to wait until Monday to get an answer so just kept plugging along. Good and bad in this frustrating start. Frustrated that an assembly was shipped out wrong but also happy to know that I could figure it out myself with the available resourced and keep moving.

    IMG_1789_zpsmuxozadj.jpg
    Decided at some point to follow EdwardB's lead and replace the upper ball joints. Don't know it its necessary but I was ordering some paint from Summit so why not add them in the cart.
    I had to grind down the spacers a little on the lower shock mounts. At first I thought it was just the powder coat but I sanded that down and it was still too tight so made an adjustment on the grinding wheel. It takes a while to understand that these kits are well built but they do not go together to aircraft tolerances. Some adjustments need to be made. So far, every time I've run into an issue I've been able to look to the forum and see that several others have come across similar if not exact issues and the solutions are common sense. My I-pad is always close at hand.

    DSCN0966_zps2f4m1uf5.jpg
    I didn't join the Wilwood wall clock club but I did manage to ricochet a bolt off the frame and into an open drain (now taped over). Of course you have to buy 12 of the bolts from Wilwood for $58 so if anyone finds themselves in the same need of ONE Willwood bolt, I can help 11 of you. Bought the safety wire plyers and wire. Love the internet and the fact that a dozen individuals have taken the time to make a "how to safety wire bolts" video. I'm sure this is just what Al Gore had in mind when he invented the internet.

    IMG_1808_zpsaotvhu35.jpg
    I bought the FFR power steering rack. Everything went together smoothly. No need to trim anything per the instructions, it was already done. I realized I put the steering link arms on upside down when I tried to connect the steering rack ends. Didn't notice the slight taper. I think this was the 3rd or 4th time I had taken the assembly apart but I'm definitely getting into a rhythm and gaining confidence. The front sway bar also went together smoothly. I think WareagleScott shows a picture of the carbide tipped sawzall blade "for thick metal" he used to cut down the male and female rod ends. I came to the same conclusion after I had smoothed out a few standard "metal" blades. The carbide blades take a healthy bite and the blade wants to jump so get a groove started with a hand file and the blade will settle in.

  8. #8
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    They say "nature abhors a vacuum". Same can be said for an empty garage. Every time I turned around there would be new bags and boxes sitting in my future build space. Felt like I was defending turf. Think my wife saw it as a way for me to help get her closet organized.

    So far, every time I've run into an issue I've been able to look to the forum and see that several others have come across similar if not exact issues and the solutions are common sense.
    Good grief! Are all wife's like that? I have a three car garage, and I just barely have room to park the roadster. I have a older Malibu that is parked out in the weather, (but with an outdoor car cover), that I have desperately wanted to get in the garage to finish the restoration. but there's no room thanks to boxes and bags, of her junk.

    This and the FFCars forum, have always been a better go to place, than the manual.

    Does anyone find it odd that those same issues continue to plague builders? Perhaps if corrections are not done from the get go, at least the proven solutions to them could be included in the manuals foot notes.
    FFR6803RD, MKIII 3.1, 302EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5 c/w Hurst Pro shifter, 3 link rear, Koni coil overs, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear, BBK rear lower control arms. Ivy Green Metallic On road 09/2010

  9. #9
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Just what you need, another build thread by a novice.

    My first boss at McDonnell Douglas told all of us young engineers, "Don't be too proud to copy good ideas. Proven designs don't kill pilots."
    So if you see me stealing your ideas, it is with that sound engineering principle in mind. I will try to credit those from whom I borrow but I've read so many threads I might have forgotten where the ideas originated.
    -Steve
    Welcome Steve!

    How else are us novices supposed to learn than through the tutelage of experts! Good on you for jumping into this crazy pool! And don't feel even half bad about stealing ideas. I am proud to say I have stolen ideas from the best of them. This community is very giving, more than willing to help you through any predicament. Just ask. The experts are out there, and they will be more than happy to jump in and set you straight.

    I am glad you are putting up your thread. We all learn from each other.
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017
    Build Thread

  10. #10
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    IRS, Sway bars, pedals

    Got all of the pieces prepared for the IRS.
    Major pucker factor involved in cutting the ends off of the aluminum knuckles, but that turned out to be easier than I expected. Just had to work up the nerve to hack into something that looked pretty expensive.

    Did not expect "chasing out the holes to 5/8" in the pumpkin to be such a PITA. I did it in steps with two bit sizes but I should have bought a drill motor with a larger chuck. Bent a few $20 drill bits before it was all said and done.

    Zip tied some carpet on to my floor jack and was able to jack/rotate/jack/push/rotate and push it right into place with the help of my son. He kept saying, "just let me get under it and push it into place". Ahh, to be a 20 year old D1 water polo player. He has the strength but I was able to convince him that we should just go ahead and use the floor jack. Tight but it went in pretty smooth. I had made some tapered pins per EdwardB's instruction. Nice.
    DSCN0979_zpsgvvge3wg.jpg
    I had more difficulty with the upper control arms. Even with the PC sanded out, the brackets were too tight. Little manipulating with a crescent wrench and it all came together. I thought I was missing two bolts for the UCA's but turned out I had the new longer ones but had not received the update on the two additional bushings and longer bolts. Another forum save.

    Rear sway bar assembly was easy except there is a small and a large spacer in the final attachment. I was not able to install them per the instructions. Had to flip them around. Either my sway bar is a little wider than the one in the instructions or the car's unweighted geometry is a little different. The instructions were for adding it to a fully built car. Anyone have any experience with that? I zip tied a note to the sway bar to look at it again when the car is on the ground.
    DSCN0988_zpsp8bbb07t.jpg

    I added a cheap work bench from Harbor Freight so that I could move my drill press, heavy vice and sanding station outside. It is much easier to do all of the cutting, drilling and grinding outside and it wont be a problem in sunny So Cal. My wife will get a potting bench when I'm through. See how clever that one was.
    And yes, that is a foosball/assembly table. Use what you got. Also makes for a good paint drying station as I painted a few pieces I'd later find out I don't need. practice.
    IMG_1951_zpsgwy1j1ri.jpg
    DSCN0992_zpsb7zn4m4t.jpg

    Next up was the peddle box. I called FFR to see if the frame mods was necessary. They said no because the clutch would engage before the peddle hit. I put it together and immediately took it apart and did the EdwardB frame mod. I could see what FFR was saying but I plan to get the max leg room possible so it was definately going to be necessary for me.
    IMG_1947_zpsbgygbb1r.jpg

  11. #11
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    You Are Off To A Fine Start!
    Congratulations!

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    DSCN0957_zpssk2foex5.jpg
    Parts inventoried. Everything checked out with my back order parts list other than a few nuts and bolts and quite honestly, they are probably in here. I read the manual before my kit arrived. Good advice from the forum, but it's a little like reading menu in a foreign language. Fist pass through is confusing but when you see the items and have them in your hands, the manual starts to make a whole lot more sense. Same with the inventory list. I've read where some people took all of the hardware out of the individual bags. Cant imagine doing that. Keep everything bagged.

    Body buck built, elevated and on wheels. Most of the parts stored on dollies under the body. I'm able to store some of the boxes I won't need for a while like seats, wheels, carpets and windshield at my office so that makes things a bit easier.

    IMG_1769_zpsmok7yd0p.jpg

    After inventory and a scheduled vacation, the first parts went on the car about a month after delivery. Proud moment. Lasted about 5 minutes before I realized I had made a few mistakes. The upper control arm was assembled incorrectly by FFR. Scratched my head and read a re-read instructions and looked at forum photos until I realized the mistake was not mine, but of course it was a Friday night and I didn't want to wait until Monday to get an answer so just kept plugging along. Good and bad in this frustrating start. Frustrated that an assembly was shipped out wrong but also happy to know that I could figure it out myself with the available resourced and keep moving.

    IMG_1789_zpsmuxozadj.jpg
    Decided at some point to follow EdwardB's lead and replace the upper ball joints. Don't know it its necessary but I was ordering some paint from Summit so why not add them in the cart.
    I had to grind down the spacers a little on the lower shock mounts. At first I thought it was just the powder coat but I sanded that down and it was still too tight so made an adjustment on the grinding wheel. It takes a while to understand that these kits are well built but they do not go together to aircraft tolerances. Some adjustments need to be made. So far, every time I've run into an issue I've been able to look to the forum and see that several others have come across similar if not exact issues and the solutions are common sense. My I-pad is always close at hand.

    DSCN0966_zps2f4m1uf5.jpg
    I didn't join the Wilwood wall clock club but I did manage to ricochet a bolt off the frame and into an open drain (now taped over). Of course you have to buy 12 of the bolts from Wilwood for $58 so if anyone finds themselves in the same need of ONE Willwood bolt, I can help 11 of you. Bought the safety wire plyers and wire. Love the internet and the fact that a dozen individuals have taken the time to make a "how to safety wire bolts" video. I'm sure this is just what Al Gore had in mind when he invented the internet.

    IMG_1808_zpsaotvhu35.jpg
    I bought the FFR power steering rack. Everything went together smoothly. No need to trim anything per the instructions, it was already done. I realized I put the steering link arms on upside down when I tried to connect the steering rack ends. Didn't notice the slight taper. I think this was the 3rd or 4th time I had taken the assembly apart but I'm definitely getting into a rhythm and gaining confidence. The front sway bar also went together smoothly. I think WareagleScott shows a picture of the carbide tipped sawzall blade "for thick metal" he used to cut down the male and female rod ends. I came to the same conclusion after I had smoothed out a few standard "metal" blades. The carbide blades take a healthy bite and the blade wants to jump so get a groove started with a hand file and the blade will settle in.

    Nice work Steve. I'm zooming in on the picture on an iPhone and can't see with great resolution and it may just be a shadow but take a look at the line on your power steering rack that terminates at the front middle. It took 3 racks from FFR before I got one that the line was not kinked badly at that sharp bend. Hopefully yours is good but I just wanted to give you a heads up because I had such an issue getting a straight one!

    Also you mentioned storing the carpet box at another location. A good tip I read was to take the carpet out of the box and laying it out flat so the creases work themselves out by the time you install. May be worth considering. Enjoy the build!
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 10-12-2016 at 07:32 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  13. #13
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Nice work Steve. I'm zooming in on the picture on an iPhone and can't see with great resolution and it may just be a shadow but take a look at the line on your power steering rack that terminates at the front middle. It took 3 racks from FFR before I got one that the line was not kinked badly at that sharp bend. Hopefully yours is good but I just wanted to give you a heads up because I had such an issue getting a straight one!

    Also you mentioned storing the carpet box at another location. A good tip I read was to take the carpet out of the box and laying it out flat so the creases work themselves out by the time you install. May be worth considering. Enjoy the build!
    Thanks. I checked the lines. Tight bends for sure with a slight deformation but not kinked. I looked back at your photos as a reference and mine are OK. Good tip on the carpets. Thanks

  14. #14
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Panels and Holes

    Have not posted in a while but lots going on. I drilled and cleco'd in most of my panels. Man, that's a lot of holes.

    As I got to the back panel of the cockpit I found some misalignment. The rear panel did not line up evenly. The seat belt holes and the rear trunk cross bar showed me that one side was higher than the other. Easy to fix but I was not sure which side was correct and since there is no bulb seal between this panel and the body I needed to get it right. I found enough photos in various threads so I had a good idea of what was correct but I waited until I could call FFR for a reference measurement. They were able to measure a partially built unit in R&D and confirm. I cut off the bottom flange and made a small angle to recreate the connection and get the height correct.

    We come into our house through the garage so managing shavings is critical for matrimonial bliss. I notched the tip of my shop vac and I hold it right up against the bit as I drill. Catches 95% of the shavings.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  15. #15
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    FFR Padded Dash and Glove Box Option

    During my 1/2 price option ordering frenzy, I ordered the new padded dash with glove box. There is a video link for this option imbedded in the order form now. Not sure if it was there when I ordered but if it was I skipped it. The dash was one of the last items on my back order list so I was eager to see it when it arrived. Hmmm. Not what I expected. I ordered it because I liked the shape of the new glove box. I didn't realize that it came pre-padded, hence the name. Never was very good at Clue type games as a kid.

    It is a very nice dash. They did a great job with the vinyl application. One of my big concerns with my car is that I have seen so many cars with saggy or overly padded dashes (for my taste). Just one of my OCD hot buttons. This vinyl application is tightly applied and trimmed.

    My issues are that the dash is plastic. Feels a little flimsy but I did not install it. When it is installed I bet it is fine.
    The holes for the gauges are drilled (expected). The holes for the ignition, headlight and another switch are also drilled (unexpected). I did not plan on using those standard locations. Since the dash is pre padded you can't cover the holes.

    The glove box door is also plastic and the steel hinges are to be glued on. I can't see that working, but again, I did not build it. I'd probably fasten the hinges onto an aluminum door and then glue the plastic on to that but... I'll leave that for someone who has or is building it.

    In the end, I called FFR and they returned the money after I sent the dash back. Cost half the value to ship it back but I was pleased with FFR's response. I ended up ordering a blank dash and I'll go with the comp gauge arrangement.

    I think if the headlight switch and ignition holes were not pre drilled I would have kept it and been perfectly happy. If you want the stock locations it is clean and a big time saver. Interested in hearing how the plastic holds up.

    I'd love to hear from anyone who has assembled this dash.
    DSCN1025_zpsfk53zkss.jpgDSCN1031_zpsvqtwrdnd-1.jpgDSCN1030_zps4dxvarxy.jpg
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  16. #16
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Trunk work

    I installed the FFMetal recessed battery kit. I was planning this from the beginning and am very happy with it. There was a small interference with the IRS pumpkin. I could see if one bend on the box was a fraction tighter there would be no interference so I imagine this was a one off. I was able to grind away the imposing sheet metal and we are good to go.
    IMG_1955_zpsi9ruzutl.jpg
    DSCN1011_zpsufzopnbr.jpg

    I was not planning on adding the trunk drop kit but changed my mind and ordered it from Russ Thompson. Very happy with this also.
    DSCN1040_zpshd3pk8kn.jpg

    Thankfully during the wait I read in EduardB's and Wareagle's threads about the IRS vent. Thanks for the part numbers fellas. Ordered those from Tasca. Glad I didn't rivet the battery box in place before getting those parts...

    I found a good use for my cheap shop stool. The hydraulic seat adjustment allows you to use it as a great gas tank jack. Easy to wheel it into place so the straps align and then slowly bump it up into place.
    DSCN0994_zpsx3dm1bns.jpg
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  17. #17
    Spectacular use of the stool! I wish I would have been that smart. I was balancing it on my floor jack which was a pain. Well done! Build is looking good.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13

  18. #18
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Spectacular use of the stool! I wish I would have been that smart. I was balancing it on my floor jack which was a pain. Well done! Build is looking good.
    Yes, I used the floor jack as well. Seemed like overkill. When I dropped the tank to work on fuel lines I thought of the stool, only because I was too lazy to get my floor jack.
    We used to have a plant manager who would say that he liked employees with a little "country lazy" in them. He said hard workers would kill themselves to knock out 10 widgets a day but go home and shot down whereas the lazy man will go home and think of ways to make the job easier and faster. Plant manager's skill was to teach the lazy man method to the hard worker and get 11 widgets a day.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  19. #19
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Steering Shaft, Fuel Lines and Dan the Man

    I hit a snag with the steering shaft. I was not able to attach the splined connection to the power steering rack. I had read that some had installed the foot box bushing on the inside of the foot box so I tried that but it was still not going to fit. I was concerned that the steering shaft was the wrong size so I sent measurements and photos to FFR Tech. Dan called me back and said that I had the correct parts and that I should take out the power steering rack bolts and push the rack down and it should go together fine. I hung up and tried that the next day. No dice. Called Dan back and told him that pushing the rack down made up some room but it was still not going to fit. Dan said I'd have to man-handle it a bit and then said "did you watch my video?" I said yes and I didn't see him wrestling the ps rack... Next day I greased up the bushings and rocked/fought the ps rack back until I was able to get the splined end on the rack. The shaft had a pre-load to it so I called my buddy Dan back and he confirmed that the shaft is supposed to have a pre-load in the event the bolts come loose, the shaft and rack won't separate. I only post this because I think that would have been information worthy of putting in the instructions, and no, it's not in the video.

    Next snag: Bending fuel lines. I bent the brake lines and the 1/4" fuel return line with little difficulty so I was fooled into thinking I knew what I was doing. I tried to bend the larger fuel line and immediately got a flat spot at about 15 degrees. I backed off and started on the other end of the 60" piece of tubing. Added more lube to my bending tool. It is a pretty decent Craftsman tubing bender with a large radius. Flat spotted it again. Tried a little more and kinked it. I figured I had butchered this 60" piece and would have to order another so I used the remainder of it for practice. Never did get a decent bend without a kink or flat spot. My kit came with green Rhino Guard lines. Since the instructions all showed a silver line I figured there was a chance that this was a new vendor so I called FFR. I got Dan the Man back on the line and he said that they had been using the green lines for quite some time and had no problems and then asked "did you watch my video?" I laughed and said, yes you were bending tubing around socket heads and it was silver. I punted and bought stainless lines. To be attempted at another time. According to Dan, I'm the first who has had trouble with this tubing.

    Reminded me of a good customer of mine who called in with problems and our warranty manager told him that he had never seen that problem before and that he was the first... The customer interrupted and said, "Every time I call in with a problem, I'm the first, This has never happened, You've never experienced this before..." Then he said, "You know, you only get to be a virgin one time." He reminds me of that call every time I see him.

    Dan is a good guy and it must be terribly frustrating dealing with people over the phone who have a wide rage of abilities, but I doubt I'm the first who has struggled with steering shafts and fuel lines.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    I hit a snag with the steering shaft. I was not able to attach the splined connection to the power steering rack. I had read that some had installed the foot box bushing on the inside of the foot box so I tried that but it was still not going to fit. I was concerned that the steering shaft was the wrong size so I sent measurements and photos to FFR Tech. Dan called me back and said that I had the correct parts and that I should take out the power steering rack bolts and push the rack down and it should go together fine. I hung up and tried that the next day. No dice. Called Dan back and told him that pushing the rack down made up some room but it was still not going to fit. Dan said I'd have to man-handle it a bit and then said "did you watch my video?" I said yes and I didn't see him wrestling the ps rack... Next day I greased up the bushings and rocked/fought the ps rack back until I was able to get the splined end on the rack. The shaft had a pre-load to it so I called my buddy Dan back and he confirmed that the shaft is supposed to have a pre-load in the event the bolts come loose, the shaft and rack won't separate. I only post this because I think that would have been information worthy of putting in the instructions, and no, it's not in the video.

    Next snag: Bending fuel lines. I bent the brake lines and the 1/4" fuel return line with little difficulty so I was fooled into thinking I knew what I was doing. I tried to bend the larger fuel line and immediately got a flat spot at about 15 degrees. I backed off and started on the other end of the 60" piece of tubing. Added more lube to my bending tool. It is a pretty decent Craftsman tubing bender with a large radius. Flat spotted it again. Tried a little more and kinked it. I figured I had butchered this 60" piece and would have to order another so I used the remainder of it for practice. Never did get a decent bend without a kink or flat spot. My kit came with green Rhino Guard lines. Since the instructions all showed a silver line I figured there was a chance that this was a new vendor so I called FFR. I got Dan the Man back on the line and he said that they had been using the green lines for quite some time and had no problems and then asked "did you watch my video?" I laughed and said, yes you were bending tubing around socket heads and it was silver. I punted and bought stainless lines. To be attempted at another time. According to Dan, I'm the first who has had trouble with this tubing.

    Reminded me of a good customer of mine who called in with problems and our warranty manager told him that he had never seen that problem before and that he was the first... The customer interrupted and said, "Every time I call in with a problem, I'm the first, This has never happened, You've never experienced this before..." Then he said, "You know, you only get to be a virgin one time." He reminds me of that call every time I see him.

    Dan is a good guy and it must be terribly frustrating dealing with people over the phone who have a wide rage of abilities, but I doubt I'm the first who has struggled with steering shafts and fuel lines.
    Steve,
    Just wanted to make sure you were aware you will have to disconnect the steering shaft to get the coyote installed so plan accordingly. It has to swing out towards the DS front wheel for the motor to fit. That is another item that would have been handy to know. I wish they would add stuff like that to the coyote fitment instruction supplement.

    I butchered a green fuel line as well. Turned out one 60" piece and one shorter piece worked out to be the perfect length for me so I found a vendor that sold those and ordered the replacement in a shorter length and cut the butchered piece up to practice bends.
    Last edited by wareaglescott; 11-10-2016 at 09:04 PM.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
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  21. #21
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Thanks,
    I did pick up on that. I left everything loose. Also just mocked up the locations for the master cylinder reservoirs. I think most everything is in the mock up stage until that motor goes in. I appreciate the heads up.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  22. #22
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Long Legs - Coyote FBY pedal

    I'm 6'-6" with size 13 shoes. Not the tallest to build a MK4 but tall enough that there are some interesting challenges. I was forewarned that I'd have more room if I chose the SBF motor but I like that Coyote and I'm stubborn I guess.

    I cut 1/2" off of the master cylinder threaded rods and that moved my brake and clutch pedals back 2". Thanks Dave!
    "Back" will mean away from the driver and closer to the front of the car.

    Next was to position the gas pedal or electronic throttle sensor as Ford calls it. I started with the EduardB mod to move it up. That worked well and I kept as much of the pedal arm in tact as possible.
    IMG_2050_zpsbrldvo9e.jpg


    Now to move the gas pedal back 2" or more, I was going to need to modify the steel arm or make my own. After several cardboard mock ups I thought I found a solution and made arms in aluminum. I was removing a bit more of the plastic Ford pedal arm with each iteration. The Ford part cost $110 so I figured if I ruined it it was not going to be a huge set back.

    When I got the pedal where I wanted it I realized my foot was not making contact with the pedal face but more with the arm and right at the pivot point. Not a good feel and not very safe. This is a geometry exercise and it will be different for every leg length, shoe size and seat position. For me, as I increased leg room, the foot angle changed and my 13's land on the pedals like size 15's.
    DSCN1042_zpsxavsqfx0.jpg

    I took it all apart and looked at the 4" tube. There is a little more than 2" between the bottom of the foot box floor pan and the bottom of the 4" tube. I decided to modify my floor pan and take back 1" of that space. I had a piece of 12" wide x 3/16" aluminum plate so figured if I could shape a floor pan that was 1" lower. The thicker plate would make up for less ground clearance. I also figured that if I'm hitting the floor pan I've already bottomed out the frame and tore the side pipes off so heel strike would be the least of my problems at that point.

    Bending 3/16" thick plate proved to be much harder than I thought. I quickly realized the the type of bend I could make would determine the shape of the floor and so Bend First, Design Later. After several attempts I laid the aluminum of the driveway, Placed a steel post driver on the plate, had my daughter drive the car on top of the handle of the post driver and then apply force with a big crowbar. Levers and pivots - Egyptian engineering - it worked for the pyramids.
    IMG_2052 2_zpsuxmodkiw.jpg
    Flipped the plate over and did it again and formed a crooked S. Now I have a curved floor pan that just dips where my heel rests. Not the original concept but I like it better that what I had first imagined.
    DSCN1046_zpsfnu5qlfa.jpg
    Made some side pieces and cut the length so the deep part of the bed was positioned where my heel rested.

    I attached this plate directly to the 2" curved tube and the square tube at the front of the floor pan with (8) 1/4-20 threaded inserts. It is every solid and curved so it should deflect anything minor.
    Next I modified the original floor pan to fill in the gaps.
    IMG_2221_zps1j4zwsue.jpg~c100.jpeg

    It is not perfect but it will be covered in Lizard skin and carpet or more probably just Lizard skin and rubber mat so I am happy with the finish.

    IMG_2226_zpsfcpe7log.jpg
    The green line in the photo shows the original floor pan level. Perpendicular green line is the low spot that I aligned with a mark I put on the 4" tube when I figured out where my heel would rest.
    Attachment 61214Attachment 61215

    I made a a couple more cardboard lever arms until I got the pedal angle correct so my foot made even contact. I made two aluminum brackets and sandwiched what remained of the plastic pedal arm. One aluminum arm was enough but the second helped me stabilize the pedal pad so it didn't rock. Lots of work to get the aluminum arms to sit correctly because they still had to be bent around the curve of the plastic pedal and then bend back to get the pedal pad aligned with the brake pedal.
    IMG_2258_zpsfkirhsfv.jpg~c100.jpegIMG_2253_zpsgfap3ucm.jpg~c100.jpeg
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...3&d=1479832606

    I drilled the pedal pad with a countersink bit to make the pad match the brake and clutch pedals, sort of. You won't see the pedals but I had already put several weekends into this pedal project so why not make it look good.

    I might trim off the bottom 1/2" of the pedal pad to get a little more room when sliding my foot from gas to brake but I'll await until I get the brakes bled and determine the brake pedal travel. Ideally I would like another 1/2" - 1" but that would require removing the steel bracket and mounting the pedal assembly directly to the steel face of the foot box. I looked at the Lokar pedal. It is narrower and mounts directly from behind which is great but the wiring connection is on the side so it is effectively just as wide as the Ford pedal. This will have to work for me. It is way more comfortable that what I started with.

    I looked at some pedal arrangements in Porsches, MG's and other cars with tight foot boxes and they are all similar and all different. Bottom line is you have to train your feet a bit to hit the brake and not the gas. You can't just pound it like the daily driver.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Straversi; 03-13-2017 at 01:20 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  23. #23
    Wow very nice work on that floor mod. That is great.
    I spent quite a bit of time mounting my kirkey seats. I have the high backs so may potentially need to move them some when the body goes on but I accounted for that. I think with your pedal set up and the kirkey low backs you will be quite pleased with the room you will have. I am not your height but at 6' 3" I have found the fit to be pretty good.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  24. #24
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    It has been a while but I have been moving along with lots of small projects.
    I like the look of the Wilwood reservoirs so I ordered a third from FFR. Mounted these to follow the slope of the 3/4" tube.
    IMG_2268_zpskubp2ebp.jpg
    I was about to rivet a brake line clamp on the reservoir bracket but remembered that this reservoir assembly needs to swing out of the way before the Coyote drops in. Thanks Forum! I can un-bolt the bracket and get it out of the way as needed. the brake line clamps will all be on the frame, not my bracket.
    IMG_2269_zpsxiwatide.jpg
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  25. #25
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Next up was the reservoir supply hoses. I wanted to pass them through the hole intended for the clutch cable. Tight fit but broke out the old drafting tools to make sure I got the holes close enough together so the hoses would not rub on the steel pass through.
    IMG_2288_zpss6vuu2gh.jpg
    Had to flat spot the grommets on the disc sander to get them to nest a little closer.
    IMG_2290_zpsen9btl6k.jpg
    Happy with the results of something that will be seen by no one.
    IMG_2292_zpsz4e0drql.jpg
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  26. #26
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Time to run braided fuel lines. I mocked up my fuel lines with bent coat hangers. I took them to Earl's plumbing and they made my hoses while I waited. I thought they would laugh but they said they do it all the time.
    IMG_2285_zps4iikcjsx.jpg

    IMG_2283_zpsfzh0gpdq.jpg

    I used the kit brake lines with nothing unique to add other than O'Riley Auto Parts has a good selection of the same RhinoGuard brake lines to replace those that I mangled and others that they stocked in different lengths that came in handy.

    IMG_2271_zps63ajt4js.jpg

    IMG_2270_zpsirqeqyo5.jpg

    I did manage to run one of my rear brake lines directly under a spot where I needed to drill a hole for my battery ground. Had to take a little care drilling the hole but it worked out fine. Just a reminder of how one decision affects many more to come.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  27. #27
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Wiring

    Milestone event for me. I opened the Ron Francis wiring harness for the first time. I've been avoiding that box like the plague. Mechanical things make sense to me. Electricity it still a mystery. Once I got it out of the box and could put my hands on it, it was a little less intimidating. I installed the fuse panel with the extra brace per EduardB.
    IMG_2336_zpsmntvfdn3.jpg
    Now that I have my rear harness installed I can actually start installing items like the battery drop box permanently.
    I filled the rear end with the special oil and friction reducer. Another good forum tip about how much that stuff stinks. I had a good day to work on Christmas Eve but thought my wife might not appreciate it if I stunk up the garage and house with 20 people coming over. Good move to wait a few days.
    IMG_2328_zpsrlot5ltb.jpg

    FFR techs told me I didn't need to bother with the rear bumper attachment mods that so many have done because the gas tank is easy to drop. Now that I have the stainless lines and electrical in place, I can see that the tank can still be dropped but I would not call it easy. I went ahead and added the 7/16" couplings.

    I installed my emergency brake lines per the kit instructions. I can definitely see the merit of the mods that take it over the 4" tube but I'm suffering from a bit of modification fatigue so I'm doing this one by the book. One of my cables slipped into the Wilwood emergency brake casting will a little lube and mild force. I had to remove the e-brake caliper on the other side in order to get the other cable in place. A little emery cloth, more lube and slightly more force an it popped in place.

    Next up is the EduardB's clutch switch bracket. All I can say is thanks and thanks again. Don't know what i would do if I was building this without the EduardB build thread. I have it printed and in a binder.
    IMG_2322_zpsw1ytsuyf.jpg

    Did I say thanks?

    IMG_2326_zpscx3e4t4t.jpg
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  28. #28
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    I was a little sloppy cutting my trunk box around the braces. Seems like so long ago.

    IMG_2357_zpspwvfxvt1.jpg

    I didn't want to fill gaps this large with silicon so I fabled up some aluminum band-aids.

    IMG_2358_zps46izh6kn.jpg
    Should be fine when I get them riveted in.

    IMG_2360_zpsu6kvckk8.jpg
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  29. #29
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Last post of the day. I'm installing the radiator shroud and the Breese upper and lower supports.
    The shroud and the lower supports are easy and straight forward. The upper mount requires you to remove the two 4" x 3/4" tubes that are welded to the cross bar.

    IMG_2338_zpsy3mtsskk.jpg

    These small tubes are attached with 6 stitch welds. I have a new appreciation for the guy on the TV shows who walks up with a hand grinder and says "I'm going to clean up the bumper or cut a hole in the hood" and when they come back from commercial, he has it neatly done. I was grinding and cutting for quite a while to get these little tubes off without damaging the main cross tube. If I had to do it again I think I'd cut three sides of the tubes off and leave the top piece attached. The thin top piece of the tube would not make a difference. But, I thought of that after I had already committed to removing all of the welds.

    IMG_2341_zpse1sjb0gs.jpg

    Setting the 51 degree angle

    IMG_2350_zpsgaest2fg.jpg

    IMG_2348_zps3kac7k4h.jpg
    Last edited by Straversi; 03-13-2017 at 01:15 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  30. #30
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Body Panels

    Time for an update. My wife had to go out of town so my brother came down for a weekend Cobra visit. He's a retired school teacher and now full time wood worker. I put him to work doing what wood workers do best, sanding and spraying (although the photo is of me).

    IMG_2403_zps4f5lze7l.jpg

    I've been planning to keep my body panels bare aluminum but there are plenty of scratches either from forming or my own poor handling. I experimented with different sanding and coating methods and decided to hand sand with a block, 220 grit and a guide board to keep the scratches uniform. I sprayed the panels with a clear coat called Alumaclear. We've been coating polished aluminum tank trailers (think Ice Road Truckers) with the product for a few years and my customers have been happy with it. We used to use Sharkhide on the tankers but it is very hard to apply on a 42' semitrailer. One of my vendors send me a free can of the Alumaclear so why not. I didn't get photos of the finished product because we had to get the panels done and inside to beat one of our So Cal rain storms.

    I am very please with the end result. Next we siliconed and riveted on most of the body panels, keeping the DS footbox exposed. Sanding, spraying and riveting would have been a truly tedious job solo. Had a blast with my brother and it made the time fly.
    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 03-13-2017 at 01:12 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  31. #31
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Coyote

    Next, it was time to get that Coyote off the crate. I cut and drilled the lifting plates per EduardB. A while back, I moved my heavy vice outside and mounted it on my flimsy HF work bench. I reenforced the corner, but it was still pretty weak. Wish I would have videoed the next step. I needed to bend the steel plate so I put it in the vice, added some heat from a propane torch and started whaling away with a sledge hammer. It became clear pretty quick that the table might yield before the plate did. The table barely survived but I got my bend.

    IMG_2331_zpsbhzplx5b.jpg

    Borrowed a friend's hoist and the Coyote is finally free of the crate. On the engine stand to get the Moroso oil pan,
    engine mounts, power steering pump and oil and water sensors installed. Removed the factory oil cooler as well. I had ordered the adapter from Tasca a while back.

    Me on the hoist
    IMG_2408_zpsjhgvefvw.jpg
    Bro behind the stand
    IMG_2415_zpsqb0he5bo.jpg

    I send my brother home well fed and tired. We got a lot done and had a lot of laughs.
    His garage is set up to build museum quality furniture so he doesn't want to build a Cobra but he's happy to come down and join the party.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 03-13-2017 at 01:14 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  32. #32
    Great to see the heart going in...Can you tell me about your decision process on the Coyote vs SBF? I am at the same point in my decisions and having a difficult time deciding. Just re-read your thread and wondering if you have any insights to help with my decision. Thanks for your time! Wes

  33. #33
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Brimhall View Post
    Great to see the heart going in...Can you tell me about your decision process on the Coyote vs SBF? I am at the same point in my decisions and having a difficult time deciding. Just re-read your thread and wondering if you have any insights to help with my decision. Thanks for your time! Wes

    Man, I'm 8 months into this and I'm still torn. Kidding a little, but it just came down to a gut choice. I love the power, weight and modern technology of the Coyote but I still love the sound and simple rawness of the SBF. By the time I put EFI on the SBF and dressed it up with Cobra bling, it cost about the same or more than the Coyote. It wasn't a $ decision though. I think in the end I was a little afraid of the challenge the Coyote presented and that might have tipped the scale. Time will tell if that was foolish or not. I also told myself that if I ever build a 33 it will have old school power in it. You can not go wrong with either.

    Good luck and have fun. I'm having a blast.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  34. #34
    Steve Im not sure you understand that you are obligated to absolutely blow the budget on this project. Using free product that your vendor supplied hardly lives up to the established forum guidelines! haha

    In all seriousness I am glad to see your progress. I notice in your picture of the engine hanging you have the intake removed. Are you going with a Boss intake or some other sort of change?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
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  35. #35
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Steve Im not sure you understand that you are obligated to absolutely blow the budget on this project. Using free product that your vendor supplied hardly lives up to the established forum guidelines! haha

    In all seriousness I am glad to see your progress. I notice in your picture of the engine hanging you have the intake removed. Are you going with a Boss intake or some other sort of change?
    Yes, I am going with a Boss style intake. That totally unnecessary investment should put me back on track with your budget expectations, yes?

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  36. #36
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Yes, I am going with a Boss style intake. That totally unnecessary investment should put me back on track with your budget expectations, yes?

    -Steve

    The Boss Manifold Is Totally Necessary!


    They Look Cool & That's Enough To Justify The Expense!

    Steve

  37. #37
    Steve- thanks for the reply! I enjoy seeing your posts pop up- very similar build to what I am planning.

  38. #38
    Ha! yes that should put you right on track. Carry on!
    Look forward to seeing the motor in the engine bay. That Boss intake is sharp looking!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16
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  39. #39
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Clutch and Transmission

    With the Coyote free it was time for clutch and transmission. I bought all of my components from Mike Forte and he was very helpful walking me through the assembly. He promised me others had asked dumber questions but he didn't convince me.

    I built a quick and dirty engine stand and mounted it on a dolly. I kept the engine connected to the hoist in case my crude stand gave way. My brother is the carpenter, not me.

    Removed the flywheel, drove out the clutch locator pins, installed the new locator pins (after they spent the night in the freezer) and installed the clutch. Then realized the bell housing plate had to go on before the flywheel was reattached. More practice.

    IMG_2455_zpskawnw0db.jpg

    I put the transmission on another dolly and spaced it with cardboard until it was the proper height. Slid the two together with a little effort but no damage to the spine.

    Mike helped me set the pivot bolt so the clutch fork was aligned properly. If you don't know what those are, buy your stuff from Mike and he'll explain it to you too. I've replaced a clutch or two over the years and I've swapped out one junk Datsun transmission for another junk yard transmission but I've always had a starting point as a reference. Never built something completely from new parts out of boxes. Without a starting point as a reference it is great to have guys like Mike and willing Forum members to offer help.

    Mike walked me through the hydraulic clutch installation and push rod trimming. I'd read about that and was a little intimidated until I had the part in hand and Mike on the phone. Ah, not so difficult after all.

    IMG_2473_zpspdcbibe7.jpg

    Lastly, added the Forte speedo plug as referenced in other threads.
    She's ready to go.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  40. #40
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    149

    Rubber Meets the Road or at least the Rim

    My BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires arrived.


    IMG_2395_zpsv3yka2t9.jpg

    Wow, those 315/30ZR18's are a far cry from the the old Comp T/A's from way back when. I put this in the General Discussion so I'll be brief. Tires arrive with no stems. Local America's Tire man though the wheels needed a special stem.

    Courtney set me a set (nothing special about them).

    IMG_2420_zpsue2qowet.jpg

    Dan sent an email that said no special stems were needed, just use normal stems and give them a twist when half way through and they'd hold. Took my stems in and the America's Tire man was still nervous but I gave him Dan's email and he gave it a try. It worked, tires mounted and installed. So cool.

    IMG_2440_zps6b90f5d2.jpg

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

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