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Thread: Steve's MK IV Coyote Build

  1. #41
    Greta build thread, enjoyed reading it, thanks.

  2. #42
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Aluminum Panels

    Not sure if this photo shows the aluminum panel well enough but this is the brushed finish we sanded in. 220 grit with a hand block using a guide board. No matter how hard I tried to sand straight without a guide, there was always a noticeable curve. Very pleased with how it turned out. Trying to keep a racing look to it but didn't want tons of scratches. I probably gave this decision as much thought as anything on the build; natural, paint, powder coat, sharkhyde...

    Cracked myself up the other day when I looked at some photos of cars at the HB Cruise-In with Coyotes. There is probably less than 25 square inches of panel visible inside the engine bay. But darn it, I'm sure happy with how that precious real estate is finished!

    IMG_2497_zpsfsmgjsbu.jpg

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  3. #43
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Engine Bay Prep

    Starting to make the push to install the motor. First I needed to wire the engine bay. I'm following EduardB's schematic, other than I have the rear mount drop battery box so my battery cable will come up the transmission tunnel. I started to bring it up the passenger side but the driveline is offset to the passenger side so it looked a little tight. Plenty of room on the drivers side of the tunnel. I had already drilled the 2" hole in the firewall for the Coyote harness, fabbed the bracket to mount the PCM to the passenger side and mounted the Power Distribution Box on the 2" tube near my fuel distributor. Now I needed to peel back the harness and do some pruning.

    IMG_2483_zpsqq0cbfcs.jpg

    Now we are getting serious. Had to set up a new work station to spread the wiring out to keep thinks in order.

    IMG_2482_zpsm8gfxu4r-1.jpg

    I reached out to EduardB Several times for clarification and he graciously offered help and referred me to his wiring schematics that I had somehow missed in his threads. I have been reading so many schematics and making notes and talking to myself that my wife finally asked "Is this going to be safe?" I guess I have not been projecting much confidence leafing through manuals and dragging a harness through the house.

    IMG_2490_zps6xrpdfgv.jpg

    IMG_2488_zpsawclefup.jpg

    All buttoned up. I covered or replaced the plastic convolute tubing with Painless Performance Classic Braid. Just like the look. No practical reason.

    Next stop, Coyote.

    IMG_2494_zpsifx3nefn.jpg

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  4. #44
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looking good (and familiar!). That classic braid looks nice. Thought about using it a couple times but didn't. Maybe next time. For those red plastic caps on the master disconnect, I trimmed them enough to fit flat over the posts. Just enough around the back part to slip past the larger and added wires. Then put a blob of non-conductive electronic grade silicone sealant on the post to hold them in place. They would peel off pretty easily if ever necessary.

    Good luck getting the Coyote in! Big next step.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  5. #45
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    Steve-

    She is looking great! I really like the brushed finish you are putting on your aluminum panels; they look terrific, and I think give it that race car finish you were seeking.

    You are making great time with the build, and everything looks sharp.

    Thanks for posting your progress!

    Regards,

    Steve

  6. #46
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Coyote Time

    Big weekend! I managed to get a day of my son's spring break and he and a friend of mine showed up Saturday around noon. I had been at it since 6:00 AM double checking everything. Car on wheel dollies, HF load leveler, strap and come-along for transmission, check. OK, time to get this big Coyote in its new home.

    Combined experience installing motors: Big Fat Zero. Last time I installed a motor it was a Datsun 1800 and my brother and I just put the short block in by hand, no hoist necessary. This was a slightly different experience.
    IMG_3157_zps25ib7ldp.jpg

    It took us about an hour and a half to slowly, and I mean slowly guide the Coyote in. Down a little, little more angle, move the car left, right forward...

    It was great to have two extra sets of hands and eyes. Had a priceless experience with my son AND we managed to get the motor in place without losing any fingers or damaging the body panels. Whew!

    IMG_2526_zpsloa3hbnj.jpg

    Once we got the engine down enough that the passenger side motor mount was making contact I removed the DS engine mount and started to install the DS header.

    I let my help depart and started the slow process of getting those header bolts in. I think it took me just as long to get the header in as it did to install the motor. Part of that time was modifying a tool though.

    I cut 1/2" off of an 8mm allen wrench and slipped it into a ratcheting box end wrench. My new favorite tool. Allowed me to get to all of the header bolts and made quick work of the fine threads.

    FullSizeRender3_zpsim2ilmyf.jpg

    FullSizeRender2_zpsz21y39me.jpg

    One note: I installed the plastic oil sensor (removed from the stock pan) in the DS of the Moroso oil pan at the same time I was installing the header, with the engine still suspended but in place. I don't think you can get the oil pan between the mounts with the sensor installed and I don't think you can get the sensor in with the motor all the way in. Seemed like there was a sweet spot where it went in smoothly.

    Header in, motor mount back on, engine settled nicely in the mounts so I mounted the transmission brace, added the 3/4" spacer and called it a day.

    Thanks to all of the Forum tips and advice, we were able to get the engine in without interruption. No trips to ACE for missing bits and pieces.

    Sunday I repositioned the car in the garage, put it back up on jack stands, installed the starter, ground strap, PS header and cleaned up. Then I had to fix a fountain, some landscape lights, reprogram some sprinklers and catch up on a long list of TO DO's.

    I had the car on the ground for a few minutes. Got to sit in it and make car noises. What a great weekend. Need to get to the office so I can rest. Man, I'm tired.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  7. #47
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Those Tires Look Ready To Kick Some Asphalt!

  8. #48
    Congrats on getting the Coyote in! Huge step. Will be eagerly awaiting the first start video!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  9. #49
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Looking good (and familiar!). That classic braid looks nice. Thought about using it a couple times but didn't. Maybe next time. For those red plastic caps on the master disconnect, I trimmed them enough to fit flat over the posts. Just enough around the back part to slip past the larger and added wires. Then put a blob of non-conductive electronic grade silicone sealant on the post to hold them in place. They would peel off pretty easily if ever necessary.

    Good luck getting the Coyote in! Big next step.
    Thanks, and yes that should all look familiar. No penalty for plagiarism I was told. Thanks for the tip with the caps. I think I'm going to add two guarded toggle switches on either side of the battery disconnect, one for fuel pump cut off and one for flashers. Still not 100% sure but I added wiring for those before the motor went in, just in case. If I decide not to place them there it will be easier to cut out the wiring than to add in after the fact. I'll trim the red caps and add the dielectric grease when I get that all finalized.

    I'm not going to use the Coyote engine cover so my wiring will be visible. I thought the classic braid would be worth while. With the Coyote cover it would all be hidden anyway.

    You will surely see more familiar photos in this thread, but I promise not to paint her red and white.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post

    The Boss Manifold Is Totally Necessary!


    They Look Cool & That's Enough To Justify The Expense!

    Steve

    Be very careful here, The old intake will not work with the 2015 and newer coyote. Make sure you are using 2015 and newer intake and throttle body.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  11. #51
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    Be very careful here, The old intake will not work with the 2015 and newer coyote. Make sure you are using 2015 and newer intake and throttle body.
    I'm in the research phase now. Not planning on the Boss but looking into an aftermarket intake. They do not support the Intake Manifold Runner Control feature (aware of the pros and cons there). A custom tune is required if you delete the IMRC but that is required anyway with headers, etc. Other than that, it is supposed to run with the -15 throttle body. Any info you have is appreciated. Like I said, still researching.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  12. #52
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    I'm in the research phase now. Not planning on the Boss but looking into an aftermarket intake. They do not support the Intake Manifold Runner Control feature (aware of the pros and cons there). A custom tune is required if you delete the IMRC but that is required anyway with headers, etc. Other than that, it is supposed to run with the -15 throttle body. Any info you have is appreciated. Like I said, still researching.
    I started to respond to the Boss intake on a 2015 Coyote before, but didn't. It's definitely a bit of a mixed bag. The IMRC difference you mention is one thing. That would have to be addressed with a custom tune. But then the Boss intake takes a custom tune anyway. On the previous version of the Coyote, the Boss intake took away some power at the lower RPM's but give a nice bump at the higher ones. The difference doesn't seem quite so much for the 2015 version due to the changes made to the base engine. There are several reviews out there for intake options for the 2015 Coyote. Check those out. The Boss intake does add some power for the 2015, but at very high RPM's. 7,000 and above. Not something you're going to see very often with street driving. Check this out. https://www.svtperformance.com/2014/...s-intake-test/

    Bottom line for me, between the intake and the custom tuning it's a pretty expensive appearance item. Ford Performance has a couple other intake options for the newer Coyotes. You might want to look at those if it's pure power you're going after. But they aren't very pretty. Certainly not any better looking than the stock setup. Again IMO. And by the way, once we have this all figured out, it's changing again! The 2018 Coyote has yet another batch of changes. Ford hasn't officially provided many details, but it's clearly going to shake things up again.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-21-2017 at 03:09 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  13. #53
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    More Foot Box Modificaions

    My kit has the latest and greatest FFR DS foot box panels for the Coyote. After I dropped the motor in however, I realized there was more room available. I'm 6'6" so the thought of available leg room going to waste haunted me.

    If you want the max leg room available, follow the well documented King panel modifications. I'm sure they are better than mine and far easier to do prior to engine installation. Modifying the foot box after the engine is installed and after you have riveted most of the foot box together is not the recommended method, but it is possible.

    First of all, in order to do this I had to remove the peddle assembly and all of the bits and pieces that have been added over the weeks. A bit of a bummer since I thought that area was assembled for the last time. Silver lining is that it will be easier to spray on the Lizard Skin with the peddles removed.

    I thought I might notch out an area near the gas peddle and cut down the angle that transitions to the transmission tunnel.

    2_zpsqdvkbce8.jpg

    3_zps2zsj1rcv.jpg

    But once I got the Dremmel cut wheel going I just decided to remove the side and open it up with one smooth panel.

    4_zpscaoa4shg.jpg

    After a few attempts with cardboard and tape I figured out the panels I needed. You can see how the new panel crosses over the 4" frame tube. It doesn't look like a huge change but that area is exactly where my boney shin wants to rest.

    7_zps5c0lxv87.jpg

    9_zpsae01xtld.jpg

    Transferred to aluminum

    1_zpsksq0x0gb.jpg

    Viola!
    10_zps1up2tzwf.jpg

    I'm very happy with the results. The engine completely hides the patched area and the carpet will take care of the rest. The leg room change is a serious improvement. It's not an upgrade to first class but it's definitely like getting the emergency exit row. Few things make a tall guy happier than improved leg room.

    A friend of mine has an original 33 Ford Hot Rod which his wife less than affectionately calls "the worlds least comfortable $100K car." His advice to me has been to do whatever I can do to make my car as comfortable as possible.

    Although I wish I had done this modification in the proper sequence, the time and effort were well worth it.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  14. #54
    Nice work Steve
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  15. #55
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Lizard Skin

    I've been busy but have not updated in a while. Engine bay is mostly complete so time to get the Lizard Skin on and then interior wiring.

    I ran through a couple rolls of painters tape getting the interior prepped. No quick way to do this, just get comfortable and start taping. I filled in some of the larger sheetmetal gaps with MarineTech epoxy.

    IMG_2747.jpeg

    I'm not sure what I'm doing with my trans tunnel cover yet so I'm setting that aside. Need to save some Lizard Skin to spray that later.

    IMG_2749.jpeg

    Quick rough sand and a wipe down and time to fling the Lizard Skin around. Drop cloths, lots of drop cloths.

    IMG_2758.jpeg

    I put down a light coat and then built it up pretty thick. I overdid it in some areas trying to get the nozzle in tight places. Dragged my hoses through freshly painted panels a couple of times but this stuff is pretty forgiving.

    Note to Self: Hire a professional painter to put the color down on this car for sure! Lots of respect to those of you who paint your own too.

    Between coats I learned that if you can just get a light coat down, you can go back with a cheap sponge brush and hand paint in anywhere your coverage was light or missed. Its hard to brush or roll the Lizard Skin on to raw aluminum but it sticks to itself well so if there is any kind of a mist layer down you can fill in by hand. This came in handy in the foot boxes and in the trunk.

    Tighten up that respirator and wear eye protection. You get up close and personal with your spray gun trying to get up inside the PS footbox.

    Two gallons of the sound deadening material down and this tub is as water tight as a duck's a&$.

    IMG_2759.jpeg

    I missed one of the larger gaps in the side trunk aluminum when I was filling with epoxy. I put some blue tape behind the panel and hand painted in several coats of the Lizard skin and it sealed up great. Don't know if it will hold up as well as the epoxy but then again I don't know if the epoxy will crack out either. It will all be covered in carpet so I guess we'll never know.

    IMG_2761.jpeg

    Couple more gallons of the heat shield material down and NASA can use this as a reentry vehicle. I used all of the air and nozzle settings from EduardB's description and as expected, it all worked well.

    In the middle of my heat shield second coat on a Sunday night, my Harbor Freight air compressor crapped out. I couldn't find the receipt and couldn't remember if I bought the extended warranty. Usually I don't. Fortunately, in this case I did. Unfortunately, my two day job became a three weekend job because of other commitments. Having drop cloths taped everywhere was popular with the wife and removing the tape with everything set up hard was a bit of a chore but it all worked out.
    IMG_2804.jpeg

    Could my Wilwood peddle assembly really be installed for the final time? Knock on wood.
    IMG_2808.jpeg

    Takes on a completely new look with so much aluminum now dark gray. This was a fun project. Messy and tiring but added a few new skills and had to solve a few problems along the way. What more could you ask for?
    IMG_2813.jpeg
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  16. #56
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looking good! Lizard Skin is a bit of work, but I think you'll be happy with the result. What a pain your compressor died in the middle of the job.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time. #8674 Build Thread

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Big weekend! I managed to get a day of my son's spring break and he and a friend of mine showed up Saturday around noon. I had been at it since 6:00 AM double checking everything. Car on wheel dollies, HF load leveler, strap and come-along for transmission, check. OK, time to get this big Coyote in its new home.

    Combined experience installing motors: Big Fat Zero. Last time I installed a motor it was a Datsun 1800 and my brother and I just put the short block in by hand, no hoist necessary. This was a slightly different experience.
    IMG_3157_zps25ib7ldp.jpg

    It took us about an hour and a half to slowly, and I mean slowly guide the Coyote in. Down a little, little more angle, move the car left, right forward...

    It was great to have two extra sets of hands and eyes. Had a priceless experience with my son AND we managed to get the motor in place without losing any fingers or damaging the body panels. Whew!

    IMG_2526_zpsloa3hbnj.jpg

    Once we got the engine down enough that the passenger side motor mount was making contact I removed the DS engine mount and started to install the DS header.

    I let my help depart and started the slow process of getting those header bolts in. I think it took me just as long to get the header in as it did to install the motor. Part of that time was modifying a tool though.

    I cut 1/2" off of an 8mm allen wrench and slipped it into a ratcheting box end wrench. My new favorite tool. Allowed me to get to all of the header bolts and made quick work of the fine threads.

    FullSizeRender3_zpsim2ilmyf.jpg

    FullSizeRender2_zpsz21y39me.jpg

    One note: I installed the plastic oil sensor (removed from the stock pan) in the DS of the Moroso oil pan at the same time I was installing the header, with the engine still suspended but in place. I don't think you can get the oil pan between the mounts with the sensor installed and I don't think you can get the sensor in with the motor all the way in. Seemed like there was a sweet spot where it went in smoothly.

    Header in, motor mount back on, engine settled nicely in the mounts so I mounted the transmission brace, added the 3/4" spacer and called it a day.

    Thanks to all of the Forum tips and advice, we were able to get the engine in without interruption. No trips to ACE for missing bits and pieces.

    Sunday I repositioned the car in the garage, put it back up on jack stands, installed the starter, ground strap, PS header and cleaned up. Then I had to fix a fountain, some landscape lights, reprogram some sprinklers and catch up on a long list of TO DO's.

    I had the car on the ground for a few minutes. Got to sit in it and make car noises. What a great weekend. Need to get to the office so I can rest. Man, I'm tired.

    -Steve
    I haven't kept up with the thread, but liked this post in particular. My Coyote install experience was on Christmas Day 2012. My oldest son had made it home late the night before. Once Christmas morning was out of the way he wanted to see the progress on the roadster. We both went to the garage in PJs. 45 minutes later the engine trans was in place. And bolted down. Can't wait to do another. I'm thinking the 25th anniversary model will be the one.

  18. #58
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Looking good! Lizard Skin is a bit of work, but I think you'll be happy with the result. What a pain your compressor died in the middle of the job.
    Thanks, and yes, that was a pain. Mostly because that job takes two solid days and I don't usually have two consecutive days to work on it. Had to wait a few weeks for the right weekend and then to have it shut down because of a 12 month old compressor? Thankfully they replaced it and it just cost me some time. On we go.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  19. #59
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    I haven't kept up with the thread, but liked this post in particular. My Coyote install experience was on Christmas Day 2012. My oldest son had made it home late the night before. Once Christmas morning was out of the way he wanted to see the progress on the roadster. We both went to the garage in PJs. 45 minutes later the engine trans was in place. And bolted down. Can't wait to do another. I'm thinking the 25th anniversary model will be the one.
    Thanks,
    I've had a few great experiences with my son and with my daughter on this build. Little things... but they are experiences we will all remember.

    Only a few more years to plan out that 25th anniversary build...
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  20. #60
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Foot Box Vents

    The need for foot box vents has and will continue to be debated. I live in Los Angeles where a 45 minute cruise might mean bumper to bumper traffic traveling all of 10 miles. I'm sure I'll use and enjoy the vents.

    I bought the ducts, hight temp hose and bulkhead valves with clutch style cable from FinishLine. Same components Cobra Earl use to sell I believe. The fans are marine bilge blowers. When I located the valves and the blowers I didn't like how tight the hose had to bend. The high temp hose is pretty stiff. I had seen others use an aluminum or plastic elbow at the valve so the hoses didn't kink. I found these 3" adjustable duct elbows. The height is good and you can create the perfect angle but they are pretty flimsy.
    IMG_2908.JPG

    I had a half a sheet of adhesive heat shield left over so I cut some strips and wrapped the elbows. The heat shield set the adjustable elbow in place and stiffened them up nicely. That stuff is nasty sharp but if you don't bleed on your projects every once in a while you are just mailing it in.
    IMG_2909.JPG

    Hoses sit in nicely now without any kinks.
    IMG_2910.JPG

    Driver's side was even tighter before the added elbows. I ran the clutch cable control for the valve through the aluminum with a tight grommet. Have not determined exactly where I want the knobs. I'll figure that out when I get the dash mocked up.
    IMG_2913.JPG

    Inside of the FinishLine valves.
    FullSizeRender.jpg

    So far, so good. I'll wire the blowers next.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  21. #61
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Small Projects

    Couple more small projects completed.

    At some point I swapped out my F panels for the FF Metals Wide Tire F Panels. I think I did this after reading WarEagle's post bout tires rubbing. I was at a point where swapping them out was easy. Wouldn't want to do it now with all of the other stuff installed in the engine bay. You can see them in the photo. Looks they they will clear the tires lock to lock but won't know until everything is buttoned up. I tried to install the splash panel but the upper and lower flanges on the new F panel will need some manipulation so I'll need to wait for the body to go on for that.

    IMG_2908.JPG

    Pet shop carbon pellet fuel vent filter built per EdwardB instructions.

    FullSizeRender.jpg

    I installed this leather partial wheel wrap. This is from Tangent. The same vendor that supplies the hidden roll bar connecting widget. I wasn't sure I'd like it when I ordered it but I really like the way it feels and looks. Good feel but keeps some of that classic wood look. Also good for those of us who can't make up our minds, leather steering wheel, wood steering wheel, leather, wood.....

    FullSizeRender 3.jpg FullSizeRender 2.jpg

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  22. #62
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    First Start - Finally!

    First Start Video:

    https://youtu.be/qS-F0_0Byfc

    and now the rest of the story.....

    My first first start video was attempted a couple of months ago only to fail with no power to my fuel pump.
    I put 12V across my fuel pump directly and it worked great, proven by a few fuel leaks. Fixed the leaks, called it a day and tried it again in the morning. The next day, forgetting that I had manually primed my fuel system, I turned the motor over again and if fired up, if only briefly.

    So I knew the fuel pump worked, the starter worked, the motor had good fuel injection and spark.

    Somewhere there was a problem in my wiring or electrical components. The forum gave me a few areas to check with no luck so I called Ford Racing Tech. We checked every connection and component. They asked me to send back my PCM for analysis. Checked out fine.

    Weeks have passed.

    They sent me a new power distribution box and rear harness. I disconnected when I had done and rewired with the new battery cables, PDB, heavy duty fuse, Coyote pigtail, etc. Temporary wiring, everything draped over the car but no change.

    After another session of "double check every connection" I discovered I had connected the orange engine warning light backwards. That was enough to give the PCM a signal it didn't like so no joy to the fuel pump.

    Problem solved right? Turn the key, hear the fuel pump spin, but now the engine wont fire. At this point I'm shot.

    Months have passed by now.

    I called a good friend of mine for help because I needed another pair of hands and eyes and a second brain for a sanity check. The best thing about a second person is that they don't necessarily believe your "givens".

    Turns out I am now getting Zero fuel pressure, but damn, the fuel pump was working. Well, it worked just long enough to fill my lines and injectors once and then the clamp that holds the rubber hose to the metal pick up tube popped off and failed.

    FullSizeRender.jpg

    IMG_2991.JPG

    This is the in-tank fuel pump provided by FFR. Brand new, worked for a total of 2 minutes. We replace the clamp with a stainless screw type (not sure if I'm happy with this) and we were back in business.

    Turn the key, fuel pressure -check, catch, cough sputter die repeat. Damn! One last walk around reveals that in these months of waiting I decided to trim my air intake snout so the air filter would not rub on the F-Panel and inadvertently flipped the pipe segment so the Mass Air Sensor was now backwards.

    With everything back in place, turn the key and that Coyote finally come to life. Hallelujah!
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  23. #63
    Awesome Steve! Congrats
    I had the exact same thing happen to my fuel pump but it was after about 50 miles of driving the go cart. Very tricky to figure out when you can hear the pump running. You said yours came from FFR? I did not know they sold fuel pumps. Mine came from a popular vendor and he did a good job of making it right once we realized that was the problem.

    I can appreciate your relief when getting it started. I to battled the gremlins for quite some time and had many hours on the phone with Ford racing and sending things back to them for testing. I got a little chuckle out of your "all right that was exciting" there at the end without a ton of emotion. One of my buddies told me I didn't look very excited in my first start video. Until you have gone through what we go through to get these things running I don't think outsiders can understand the feelings with that first start. Im sure like me you were doing cartwheels on the inside! Congrats again. I am so pleased to see your progress.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  24. #64
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Awesome Steve! Congrats
    I had the exact same thing happen to my fuel pump but it was after about 50 miles of driving the go cart. Very tricky to figure out when you can hear the pump running. You said yours came from FFR? I did not know they sold fuel pumps. Mine came from a popular vendor and he did a good job of making it right once we realized that was the problem.
    Come to think of it you are right. FFR did not supply the fuel pump. I got it with my engine package. Sorry, FFR!

    You are also right in how relieved and excited I was in the video. I was getting pretty discouraged and frustrated. Very happy now!
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  25. #65
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    Congratulations Steve!

    I know that must have felt great, especially after the frustrations.

    I also know what you mean about a fresh set of eyes. My son helps me with that all the time. I don't always agree with his recommendations, but he always has new ideas!

    Quick question about your fresh air vents. Where did you source the butterfly valve where it attaches into the footbox?

    Congrats again!

    Regards,

    Steve

  26. #66
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    Congratulations Steve!

    I know that must have felt great, especially after the frustrations.

    I also know what you mean about a fresh set of eyes. My son helps me with that all the time. I don't always agree with his recommendations, but he always has new ideas!

    Quick question about your fresh air vents. Where did you source the butterfly valve where it attaches into the footbox?

    Congrats again!

    Regards,

    Steve
    Thanks,
    Like a lot of us less experienced builders, I tend to put more faith in new parts functioning properly than in my own ability and that lack of confidence can affect troubleshooting. A good helper can help challenge what you think you know.

    My fresh air vent valves are from Finishline Accessories. They are listed on their website under Interior then Cockpit & Interior and then Heaters & Vents. Kind of hidden. I also got the high temp hose and the mesh vent covers there.

    The valves come with clutch cable style controls. The controls have a threaded collar. I drilled and threaded the 2" tube with a 3/8"-24 tap and mounted the controls in the tube under the dash.



    I think I am clear of all the door hinge mechanism. If anyone sees a problem with this location, let me know.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; Yesterday at 04:36 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

  27. #67
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
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    MMR Aluminum Manifold

    When I decided to build with a Coyote I wanted to use the Boss manifold or something similar. I found a local company, Modular Motorsports Racing that specializes in high performance modular motors. They ship Coyote based motors up to 3,500 hp for drag cars, sprint, track etc. all over the world from their little shop in Camarillo, CA. All I wanted was something that looked good so I didn't fit their usual customer profile, but most of the guys working there drove moderately modified Mustangs or Raptors so they tolerated my questions and gladly relieved me of my money. Very expensive candy store for Coyote customers.

    This is their Roadrunner manifold in its most basic form. Basically an aluminum version of the Boss. It does not support the CMCV system. I know the Pros and Cons of that discussion. I like the look and am willing to sacrifice a little low end performance.



    You can't follow the Ford coolant plumbing diagram with this manifold. Well, you can but it looks ugly. MMR has an inline thermostat housing and block off adapters so you can route two -12 lines to a fill cap Y and use the FFR overflow tank. I was skeptical but they showed me a dozen cars plumbed this way so I had to jump in their camp and believe what they were telling/selling me.



    While I was at it, I might as well add their remote oil filter and the FFR oil cooler.


    In for a penny, in for a pound.


    I mounted the cooler on a temporary panel. I'll install the FFR supplied sheet metal when I get the body on. Might use this piece to reinforce the FFR panel. Figure that out later.


    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16

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