Boyd Welding

Visit our community sponsor

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 41 to 80 of 111

Thread: Steve's MK IV Coyote Build

  1. #41
    Greta build thread, enjoyed reading it, thanks.

  2. #42
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Aluminum Panels

    Not sure if this photo shows the aluminum panel well enough but this is the brushed finish we sanded in. 220 grit with a hand block using a guide board. No matter how hard I tried to sand straight without a guide, there was always a noticeable curve. Very pleased with how it turned out. Trying to keep a racing look to it but didn't want tons of scratches. I probably gave this decision as much thought as anything on the build; natural, paint, powder coat, sharkhyde...

    Cracked myself up the other day when I looked at some photos of cars at the HB Cruise-In with Coyotes. There is probably less than 25 square inches of panel visible inside the engine bay. But darn it, I'm sure happy with how that precious real estate is finished!



    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-17-2017 at 10:43 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  3. #43
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Engine Bay Prep

    Starting to make the push to install the motor. First I needed to wire the engine bay. I'm following EduardB's schematic, other than I have the rear mount drop battery box so my battery cable will come up the transmission tunnel. I started to bring it up the passenger side but the driveline is offset to the passenger side so it looked a little tight. Plenty of room on the drivers side of the tunnel. I had already drilled the 2" hole in the firewall for the Coyote harness, fabbed the bracket to mount the PCM to the passenger side and mounted the Power Distribution Box on the 2" tube near my fuel distributor. Now I needed to peel back the harness and do some pruning.



    Now we are getting serious. Had to set up a new work station to spread the wiring out to keep things in order.



    I reached out to EdwardB Several times for clarification and he graciously offered help and referred me to his wiring schematics that I had somehow missed in his threads. I have been reading so many schematics and making notes and talking to myself that my wife finally asked "Is this going to be safe?" I guess I have not been projecting much confidence leafing through manuals and dragging a harness through the house.





    All buttoned up. I covered or replaced the plastic convolute tubing with Painless Performance Classic Braid. Just like the look. No practical reason.

    Next stop, Coyote.



    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-18-2017 at 05:15 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  4. #44
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,834
    Looking good (and familiar!). That classic braid looks nice. Thought about using it a couple times but didn't. Maybe next time. For those red plastic caps on the master disconnect, I trimmed them enough to fit flat over the posts. Just enough around the back part to slip past the larger and added wires. Then put a blob of non-conductive electronic grade silicone sealant on the post to hold them in place. They would peel off pretty easily if ever necessary.

    Good luck getting the Coyote in! Big next step.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  5. #45
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    1,645
    Steve-

    She is looking great! I really like the brushed finish you are putting on your aluminum panels; they look terrific, and I think give it that race car finish you were seeking.

    You are making great time with the build, and everything looks sharp.

    Thanks for posting your progress!

    Regards,

    Steve

  6. #46
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Coyote Time

    Big weekend! I managed to get a day of my son's spring break and he and a friend of mine showed up Saturday around noon. I had been at it since 6:00 AM double checking everything. Car on wheel dollies, HF load leveler, strap and come-along for transmission, check. OK, time to get this big Coyote in its new home.

    Combined experience installing motors: Big Fat Zero. Last time I installed a motor it was a Datsun 1800 and my brother and I just put the short block in by hand, no hoist necessary. This was a slightly different experience.



    It took us about an hour and a half to slowly, and I mean slowly guide the Coyote in. Down a little, little more angle, move the car left, right forward...

    It was great to have two extra sets of hands and eyes. Had a priceless experience with my son AND we managed to get the motor in place without losing any fingers or damaging the body panels. Whew!



    Once we got the engine down enough that the passenger side motor mount was making contact I removed the DS engine mount and started to install the DS header.

    I let my help depart and started the slow process of getting those header bolts in. I think it took me just as long to get the header in as it did to install the motor. Part of that time was modifying a tool though.

    I cut 1/2" off of an 8mm allen wrench and slipped it into a ratcheting box end wrench. My new favorite tool. Allowed me to get to all of the header bolts and made quick work of the fine threads.





    One note: I installed the plastic oil sensor (removed from the stock pan) in the DS of the Moroso oil pan at the same time I was installing the header, with the engine still suspended but in place. I don't think you can get the oil pan between the mounts with the sensor installed and I don't think you can get the sensor in with the motor all the way in. Seemed like there was a sweet spot where it went in smoothly.

    Header in, motor mount back on, engine settled nicely in the mounts so I mounted the transmission brace, added the 3/4" spacer and called it a day.

    Thanks to all of the Forum tips and advice, we were able to get the engine in without interruption. No trips to ACE for missing bits and pieces.

    Sunday I repositioned the car in the garage, put it back up on jack stands, installed the starter, ground strap, PS header and cleaned up. Then I had to fix a fountain, some landscape lights, reprogram some sprinklers and catch up on a long list of TO-DO's.

    I had the car on the ground for a few minutes. Got to sit in it and make car noises. What a great weekend. Need to get to the office so I can rest. Man, I'm tired.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-18-2017 at 05:18 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  7. #47
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell, Louisiana
    Posts
    1,950
    Blog Entries
    1
    Those Tires Look Ready To Kick Some Asphalt!

  8. #48
    Congrats on getting the Coyote in! Huge step. Will be eagerly awaiting the first start video!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  9. #49
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Looking good (and familiar!). That classic braid looks nice. Thought about using it a couple times but didn't. Maybe next time. For those red plastic caps on the master disconnect, I trimmed them enough to fit flat over the posts. Just enough around the back part to slip past the larger and added wires. Then put a blob of non-conductive electronic grade silicone sealant on the post to hold them in place. They would peel off pretty easily if ever necessary.

    Good luck getting the Coyote in! Big next step.
    Thanks, and yes that should all look familiar. No penalty for plagiarism I was told. Thanks for the tip with the caps. I think I'm going to add two guarded toggle switches on either side of the battery disconnect, one for fuel pump cut off and one for flashers. Still not 100% sure but I added wiring for those before the motor went in, just in case. If I decide not to place them there it will be easier to cut out the wiring than to add in after the fact. I'll trim the red caps and add the dielectric grease when I get that all finalized.

    I'm not going to use the Coyote engine cover so my wiring will be visible. I thought the classic braid would be worth while. With the Coyote cover it would all be hidden anyway.

    You will surely see more familiar photos in this thread, but I promise not to paint her red and white.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  10. #50
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bourne-Cape Cod, MA
    Posts
    368
    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post

    The Boss Manifold Is Totally Necessary!


    They Look Cool & That's Enough To Justify The Expense!

    Steve

    Be very careful here, The old intake will not work with the 2015 and newer coyote. Make sure you are using 2015 and newer intake and throttle body.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  11. #51
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    Be very careful here, The old intake will not work with the 2015 and newer coyote. Make sure you are using 2015 and newer intake and throttle body.
    I'm in the research phase now. Not planning on the Boss but looking into an aftermarket intake. They do not support the Intake Manifold Runner Control feature (aware of the pros and cons there). A custom tune is required if you delete the IMRC but that is required anyway with headers, etc. Other than that, it is supposed to run with the -15 throttle body. Any info you have is appreciated. Like I said, still researching.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  12. #52
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,834
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    I'm in the research phase now. Not planning on the Boss but looking into an aftermarket intake. They do not support the Intake Manifold Runner Control feature (aware of the pros and cons there). A custom tune is required if you delete the IMRC but that is required anyway with headers, etc. Other than that, it is supposed to run with the -15 throttle body. Any info you have is appreciated. Like I said, still researching.
    I started to respond to the Boss intake on a 2015 Coyote before, but didn't. It's definitely a bit of a mixed bag. The IMRC difference you mention is one thing. That would have to be addressed with a custom tune. But then the Boss intake takes a custom tune anyway. On the previous version of the Coyote, the Boss intake took away some power at the lower RPM's but give a nice bump at the higher ones. The difference doesn't seem quite so much for the 2015 version due to the changes made to the base engine. There are several reviews out there for intake options for the 2015 Coyote. Check those out. The Boss intake does add some power for the 2015, but at very high RPM's. 7,000 and above. Not something you're going to see very often with street driving. Check this out. https://www.svtperformance.com/2014/...s-intake-test/

    Bottom line for me, between the intake and the custom tuning it's a pretty expensive appearance item. Ford Performance has a couple other intake options for the newer Coyotes. You might want to look at those if it's pure power you're going after. But they aren't very pretty. Certainly not any better looking than the stock setup. Again IMO. And by the way, once we have this all figured out, it's changing again! The 2018 Coyote has yet another batch of changes. Ford hasn't officially provided many details, but it's clearly going to shake things up again.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-21-2017 at 03:09 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  13. #53
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    More Foot Box Modificaions

    My kit has the latest and greatest FFR DS foot box panels for the Coyote. After I dropped the motor in however, I realized there was more room available. I'm 6'6" so the thought of available leg room going to waste haunted me.

    If you want the max leg room available, follow the well documented King panel modifications. I'm sure they are better than mine and far easier to do prior to engine installation. Modifying the foot box after the engine is installed and after you have riveted most of the foot box together is not the recommended method, but it is possible.

    First of all, in order to do this I had to remove the peddle assembly and all of the bits and pieces that have been added over the weeks. A bit of a bummer since I thought that area was assembled for the last time. Silver lining is that it will be easier to spray on the Lizard Skin with the peddles removed.

    I thought I might notch out an area near the gas peddle and cut down the angle that transitions to the transmission tunnel.





    But once I got the Dremmel cut wheel going I just decided to remove the side and open it up with one smooth panel.



    After a few attempts with cardboard and tape I figured out the panels I needed. You can see how the new panel crosses over the 4" frame tube. It doesn't look like a huge change but that area is exactly where my boney shin wants to rest.





    Transferred to aluminum



    Viola!


    I'm very happy with the results. The engine completely hides the patched area and the carpet will take care of the rest. The leg room change is a serious improvement. It's not an upgrade to first class but it's definitely like getting the emergency exit row. Few things make a tall guy happier than improved leg room.

    A friend of mine has an original 33 Ford Hot Rod which his wife less than affectionately calls "the worlds least comfortable $100K car." His advice to me has been to do whatever I can do to make my car as comfortable as possible.

    Although I wish I had done this modification in the proper sequence, the time and effort were well worth it.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-17-2017 at 10:32 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  14. #54
    Nice work Steve
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  15. #55
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Lizard Skin

    I've been busy but have not updated in a while. Engine bay is mostly complete so time to get the Lizard Skin on and then interior wiring.

    I ran through a couple rolls of painters tape getting the interior prepped. No quick way to do this, just get comfortable and start taping. I filled in some of the larger sheetmetal gaps with MarineTech epoxy.

    I'm not sure what I'm doing with my transmission tunnel cover yet so I'm setting that aside. Need to save some Lizard Skin to spray that later.



    Quick rough sand and a wipe down and time to fling the Lizard Skin around. Drop cloths, lots of drop cloths.

    I put down a light coat and then built it up pretty thick.



    I overdid it in some areas trying to get the nozzle in tight places. Dragged my hoses through freshly painted panels a couple of times but this stuff is pretty forgiving.

    Note to Self: Hire a professional painter to put the color down on this car for sure! Lots of respect to those of you who paint your own too.

    Between coats I learned that if you can just get a light coat down, you can go back with a cheap sponge brush and hand paint in anywhere your coverage was light or missed. Its hard to brush or roll the Lizard Skin on to raw aluminum but it sticks to itself well so if there is any kind of a mist layer down you can fill in by hand. This came in handy in the foot boxes and in the trunk.

    Tighten up that respirator and wear eye protection. You get up close and personal with your spray gun trying to get up inside the PS footbox.

    Two gallons of the sound deadening material down and this tub is as water tight as a duck's a&$.



    I missed one of the larger gaps in the side trunk aluminum when I was filling with epoxy. I put some blue tape behind the panel and hand painted in several coats of the Lizard skin and it sealed up great. Don't know if it will hold up as well as the epoxy but then again I don't know if the epoxy will crack out either. It will all be covered in carpet so I guess we'll never know.

    Couple more gallons of the heat shield material down and NASA can use this as a reentry vehicle. I used all of the air and nozzle settings from EdardB's description and as expected, it all worked well.

    In the middle of my heat shield second coat on a Sunday night, my Harbor Freight air compressor crapped out. I couldn't find the receipt and couldn't remember if I bought the extended warranty. Usually I don't. Fortunately, in this case I did. Unfortunately, my two day job became a three weekend job because of other commitments. Having drop cloths taped everywhere was popular with the wife and removing the tape with everything set up hard was a bit of a chore but it all worked out.



    Could my Wilwood peddle assembly really be installed for the final time? Knock on wood.



    Takes on a completely new look with so much aluminum now dark gray.



    This was a fun project. Messy and tiring but added a few new skills and had to solve a few problems along the way. What more could you ask for?
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-18-2017 at 06:12 PM.

  16. #56
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,834
    Looking good! Lizard Skin is a bit of work, but I think you'll be happy with the result. What a pain your compressor died in the middle of the job.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  17. #57
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Espanola, Ontario
    Posts
    306
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Big weekend! I managed to get a day of my son's spring break and he and a friend of mine showed up Saturday around noon. I had been at it since 6:00 AM double checking everything. Car on wheel dollies, HF load leveler, strap and come-along for transmission, check. OK, time to get this big Coyote in its new home.

    Combined experience installing motors: Big Fat Zero. Last time I installed a motor it was a Datsun 1800 and my brother and I just put the short block in by hand, no hoist necessary. This was a slightly different experience.
    Attachment 65299

    It took us about an hour and a half to slowly, and I mean slowly guide the Coyote in. Down a little, little more angle, move the car left, right forward...

    It was great to have two extra sets of hands and eyes. Had a priceless experience with my son AND we managed to get the motor in place without losing any fingers or damaging the body panels. Whew!

    Attachment 65298

    Once we got the engine down enough that the passenger side motor mount was making contact I removed the DS engine mount and started to install the DS header.

    I let my help depart and started the slow process of getting those header bolts in. I think it took me just as long to get the header in as it did to install the motor. Part of that time was modifying a tool though.

    I cut 1/2" off of an 8mm allen wrench and slipped it into a ratcheting box end wrench. My new favorite tool. Allowed me to get to all of the header bolts and made quick work of the fine threads.

    Attachment 65296

    Attachment 65297

    One note: I installed the plastic oil sensor (removed from the stock pan) in the DS of the Moroso oil pan at the same time I was installing the header, with the engine still suspended but in place. I don't think you can get the oil pan between the mounts with the sensor installed and I don't think you can get the sensor in with the motor all the way in. Seemed like there was a sweet spot where it went in smoothly.

    Header in, motor mount back on, engine settled nicely in the mounts so I mounted the transmission brace, added the 3/4" spacer and called it a day.

    Thanks to all of the Forum tips and advice, we were able to get the engine in without interruption. No trips to ACE for missing bits and pieces.

    Sunday I repositioned the car in the garage, put it back up on jack stands, installed the starter, ground strap, PS header and cleaned up. Then I had to fix a fountain, some landscape lights, reprogram some sprinklers and catch up on a long list of TO DO's.

    I had the car on the ground for a few minutes. Got to sit in it and make car noises. What a great weekend. Need to get to the office so I can rest. Man, I'm tired.

    -Steve
    I haven't kept up with the thread, but liked this post in particular. My Coyote install experience was on Christmas Day 2012. My oldest son had made it home late the night before. Once Christmas morning was out of the way he wanted to see the progress on the roadster. We both went to the garage in PJs. 45 minutes later the engine trans was in place. And bolted down. Can't wait to do another. I'm thinking the 25th anniversary model will be the one.

  18. #58
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Looking good! Lizard Skin is a bit of work, but I think you'll be happy with the result. What a pain your compressor died in the middle of the job.
    Thanks, and yes, that was a pain. Mostly because that job takes two solid days and I don't usually have two consecutive days to work on it. Had to wait a few weeks for the right weekend and then to have it shut down because of a 12 month old compressor? Thankfully they replaced it and it just cost me some time. On we go.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  19. #59
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    I haven't kept up with the thread, but liked this post in particular. My Coyote install experience was on Christmas Day 2012. My oldest son had made it home late the night before. Once Christmas morning was out of the way he wanted to see the progress on the roadster. We both went to the garage in PJs. 45 minutes later the engine trans was in place. And bolted down. Can't wait to do another. I'm thinking the 25th anniversary model will be the one.
    Thanks,
    I've had a few great experiences with my son and with my daughter on this build. Little things... but they are experiences we will all remember.

    Only a few more years to plan out that 25th anniversary build...
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  20. #60
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Foot Box Vents

    The need for foot box vents has and will continue to be debated. I live in Los Angeles where a 45 minute cruise might mean bumper to bumper traffic traveling all of 10 miles. I'm sure I'll use and enjoy the vents.

    I bought the ducts, hight temp hose and bulkhead valves with clutch style cable from FinishLine. Same components Cobra Earl use to sell I believe. The fans are marine bilge blowers. When I located the valves and the blowers I didn't like how tight the hose had to bend. The high temp hose is pretty stiff. I had seen others use an aluminum or plastic elbow at the valve so the hoses didn't kink. I found these 3" adjustable duct elbows. The height is good and you can create the perfect angle but they are pretty flimsy.


    I had a half a sheet of adhesive heat shield left over so I cut some strips and wrapped the elbows. The heat shield set the adjustable elbow in place and stiffened them up nicely. That stuff is nasty sharp but if you don't bleed on your projects every once in a while you are just mailing it in.


    Hoses sit in nicely now without any kinks.


    Driver's side was even tighter before the added elbows. I ran the clutch cable control for the valve through the aluminum with a tight grommet. Have not determined exactly where I want the knobs. I'll figure that out when I get the dash mocked up.


    Inside of the FinishLine valves.


    So far, so good. I'll wire the blowers next.
    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-17-2017 at 10:13 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  21. #61
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Small Projects

    Couple more small projects completed.

    At some point I swapped out my F panels for the FF Metals Wide Tire F Panels. I think I did this after reading WarEagle's post bout tires rubbing. I was at a point where swapping them out was easy. Wouldn't want to do it now with all of the other stuff installed in the engine bay. You can see them in the photo. Looks they they will clear the tires lock to lock but won't know until everything is buttoned up. I tried to install the splash panel but the upper and lower flanges on the new F panel will need some manipulation so I'll need to wait for the body to go on for that.



    Pet shop carbon pellet fuel vent filter built per EdwardB instructions.



    I installed this leather partial wheel wrap. This is from Tangent. The same vendor that supplies the hidden roll bar connecting widget. I wasn't sure I'd like it when I ordered it but I really like the way it feels and looks. Good feel but keeps some of that classic wood look. Also good for those of us who can't make up our minds, leather steering wheel, wood steering wheel, leather, wood.....





    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-17-2017 at 10:06 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  22. #62
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    First Start - Finally!

    First Start Video:

    https://youtu.be/qS-F0_0Byfc

    and now the rest of the story.....

    My first first start video was attempted a couple of months ago only to fail with no power to my fuel pump.
    I put 12V across my fuel pump directly and it worked great, proven by a few fuel leaks. Fixed the leaks, called it a day and tried it again in the morning. The next day, forgetting that I had manually primed my fuel system, I turned the motor over again and if fired up, if only briefly.

    So I knew the fuel pump worked, the starter worked, the motor had good fuel injection and spark.

    Somewhere there was a problem in my wiring or electrical components. The forum gave me a few areas to check with no luck so I called Ford Racing Tech. We checked every connection and component. They asked me to send back my PCM for analysis. Checked out fine.

    Weeks have passed.

    They sent me a new power distribution box and rear harness. I disconnected when I had done and rewired with the new battery cables, PDB, heavy duty fuse, Coyote pigtail, etc. Temporary wiring, everything draped over the car but no change.

    After another session of "double check every connection" I discovered I had connected the orange engine warning light backwards. That was enough to give the PCM a signal it didn't like so no joy to the fuel pump.

    Problem solved right? Turn the key, hear the fuel pump spin, but now the engine wont fire. At this point I'm shot.

    Months have passed by now.

    I called a good friend of mine for help because I needed another pair of hands and eyes and a second brain for a sanity check. The best thing about a second person is that they don't necessarily believe your "givens".

    Turns out I am now getting Zero fuel pressure, but damn, the fuel pump was working. Well, it worked just long enough to fill my lines and injectors once and then the clamp that holds the rubber hose to the metal pick up tube popped off and failed.





    This is the in-tank fuel pump provided by FFR. Brand new, worked for a total of 2 minutes. We replace the clamp with a stainless screw type (not sure if I'm happy with this) and we were back in business.

    Turn the key, fuel pressure -check, catch, cough sputter die repeat. Damn! One last walk around reveals that in these months of waiting I decided to trim my air intake snout so the air filter would not rub on the F-Panel and inadvertently flipped the pipe segment so the Mass Air Sensor was now backwards.

    With everything back in place, turn the key and that Coyote finally come to life. Hallelujah!
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-17-2017 at 10:10 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  23. #63
    Awesome Steve! Congrats
    I had the exact same thing happen to my fuel pump but it was after about 50 miles of driving the go cart. Very tricky to figure out when you can hear the pump running. You said yours came from FFR? I did not know they sold fuel pumps. Mine came from a popular vendor and he did a good job of making it right once we realized that was the problem.

    I can appreciate your relief when getting it started. I to battled the gremlins for quite some time and had many hours on the phone with Ford racing and sending things back to them for testing. I got a little chuckle out of your "all right that was exciting" there at the end without a ton of emotion. One of my buddies told me I didn't look very excited in my first start video. Until you have gone through what we go through to get these things running I don't think outsiders can understand the feelings with that first start. Im sure like me you were doing cartwheels on the inside! Congrats again. I am so pleased to see your progress.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  24. #64
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Awesome Steve! Congrats
    I had the exact same thing happen to my fuel pump but it was after about 50 miles of driving the go cart. Very tricky to figure out when you can hear the pump running. You said yours came from FFR? I did not know they sold fuel pumps. Mine came from a popular vendor and he did a good job of making it right once we realized that was the problem.
    Come to think of it you are right. FFR did not supply the fuel pump. I got it with my engine package. Sorry, FFR!

    You are also right in how relieved and excited I was in the video. I was getting pretty discouraged and frustrated. Very happy now!
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  25. #65
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    1,645
    Congratulations Steve!

    I know that must have felt great, especially after the frustrations.

    I also know what you mean about a fresh set of eyes. My son helps me with that all the time. I don't always agree with his recommendations, but he always has new ideas!

    Quick question about your fresh air vents. Where did you source the butterfly valve where it attaches into the footbox?

    Congrats again!

    Regards,

    Steve

  26. #66
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    Congratulations Steve!

    I know that must have felt great, especially after the frustrations.

    I also know what you mean about a fresh set of eyes. My son helps me with that all the time. I don't always agree with his recommendations, but he always has new ideas!

    Quick question about your fresh air vents. Where did you source the butterfly valve where it attaches into the footbox?

    Congrats again!

    Regards,

    Steve
    Thanks,
    Like a lot of us less experienced builders, I tend to put more faith in new parts functioning properly than in my own ability and that lack of confidence can affect troubleshooting. A good helper can help challenge what you think you know.

    My fresh air vent valves are from Finishline Accessories. They are listed on their website under Interior then Cockpit & Interior and then Heaters & Vents. Kind of hidden. I also got the high temp hose and the mesh vent covers there.

    The valves come with clutch cable style controls. The controls have a threaded collar. I drilled and threaded the 2" tube with a 3/8"-24 tap and mounted the controls in the tube under the dash.



    I think I am clear of all the door hinge mechanism. If anyone sees a problem with this location, let me know.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-16-2017 at 04:36 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  27. #67
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    MMR Aluminum Manifold

    When I decided to build with a Coyote I wanted to use the Boss manifold or something similar. I found a local company, Modular Motorsports Racing that specializes in high performance modular motors. They ship Coyote based motors up to 3,500 hp for drag cars, sprint, track etc. all over the world from their little shop in Camarillo, CA. All I wanted was something that looked good so I didn't fit their usual customer profile. Most of the guys working there drove moderately modified Mustangs or Raptors so they tolerated my questions and gladly relieved me of my money. Very expensive candy store for Coyote customers.

    This is their Roadrunner manifold in its most basic form. Basically an aluminum version of the Boss. It does not support the CMCV system. I know the Pros and Cons of that discussion. I like the look and am willing to sacrifice a little low end performance.



    You can't follow the Ford coolant plumbing diagram with this manifold. Well, you can but it looks ugly. MMR has an inline thermostat housing and block off adapters so you can route two -12 lines to a fill cap Y and use the FFR overflow tank. I was skeptical but they showed me a dozen cars plumbed this way so I had to jump in their camp and believe what they were telling/selling me.



    While I was at it, I might as well add their remote oil filter and the FFR oil cooler.


    In for a penny, in for a pound.


    I mounted the cooler on a temporary panel. I'll install the FFR supplied sheet metal when I get the body on. Might use this piece to reinforce the FFR panel. Figure that out later.


    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-21-2017 at 12:12 AM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  28. #68
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Espanola, Ontario
    Posts
    306
    Very cool. A nice change from a painted dress up kit or OEM intake that has become the norm. And I agree....Gen II Coyote owners should seriously consider ditching the CMCV system, dress up the appearance of the engines and acquire an aftermarket tune as part of their build plan and budget. Everyone wants to see under your hood. Whether its at a car show or at the parking lot of the local grocery store. Straversi, you'll be putting on an impressive show every time your hood is up.

  29. #69
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    Very cool. A nice change from a painted dress up kit or OEM intake that has become the norm. And I agree....Gen II Coyote owners should seriously consider ditching the CMCV system, dress up the appearance of the engines and acquire an aftermarket tune as part of their build plan and budget. Everyone wants to see under your hood. Whether its at a car show or at the parking lot of the local grocery store. Straversi, you'll be putting on an impressive show every time your hood is up.
    Thanks Dave,
    Yes, a custom tune is in the plan. I made the decision to go with the aftermarket intake before I knew the Gen II Coyotes came with the CMCV system. More of an unconscious decision to go without it. I had a certain look in mind and I'm very happy with it.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  30. #70
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    1,645
    Steve-

    Thanks for the response and info! I appreciate it.

    Also, Like Dave I really like what you are doing under the hood. The Boss inspired intake looks great.

    I think your engine bay is going to be really fantastic when she is all done. Great work!

    Regards,

    Steve

  31. #71
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Braided Hose, Power Steering, Air/Oil Separator

    Finished up the engine with a boat load of braided stainless lines. -12 AN's with braided rubber hose for coolant lines. -10 AN's for the air/oil separator and PCV system. -6 AN's with Teflon lined high pressure lines for power steering and -6AN's with Teflon lined hose for fuel. That's a trunk full of fun.



    I discovered quickly that braided stainless lines are pretty stiff, especially in the larger diameter. This becomes critical because the engine bay is so tight, the hoses are very short and they have vey little flex. It would be much more forgiving to route lines in a 53 Ford pickup engine bay.

    So the hose and fitting determine final placement of some of the components as much as anything else. I had an idea of where I wanted to mount the power steering reservoir; for example, but the -10 fitting and hose selected the exact placement. I'm glad that I made up my hose before I installed the nut-serts in the F-Panel and mounted my reservoir.

    I also learned that when making up hoses the tolerances are +/- 1/4" at best (with my hose making ability). When multiple pieces are linked together like the PS pump, rack, cooler and reservoir it was best to make one hose at a time.

    The PS pump and rack are obviously fixed so I made up the return line with a 120 degree -10 fitting at the pump-end to relieve some of the bend in the hose. That hose located the reservoir. I determined the location of the cooler after playing with different fittings with 45, 90, 120 and 180 degree bends.

    I bought hose and fittings from a local vendor who was kind enough to let me buy fittings in multiple angles and swap out the ones I didn't need as long as I didn't tighten them down. I'd clamp the component in place and put different angled fitting on the ends and then bend and mark the hose to the correct lengths. Could have used a second set of hands for this, but managed to hold the fittings, hose, paint-pen and ruler at the same time.

    Oh, here's a tip; 90 degree fittings are cheaper than 45's and way cheaper than 120's and 180's. Also, not all angles are available in every style of fitting.

    KRC power steering pump and cooler part numbers are right out of the EdwardB playbook.



    Since I used a different coolant reservoir, I ended up locating my PS cooler on the other side of my radiator.



    Here are some brackets I made for my remote oil filter, coolant reservoir and air/oil separator. I think I enjoy these small fabrication projects as much as anything else on the build.





    I bought the Moroso Air/Oil Separator. I had planned to mount this in the front of the engine but it got crowded up front in a hurry. This is another case where the stiff hoses influenced location. I made a bracket that picked up one of the engine mount holes in the back of the head.



    This is the completed engine bay.
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-18-2017 at 08:50 AM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  32. #72
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    The need for foot box vents has and will continue to be debated. I live in Los Angeles where a 45 minute cruise might mean bumper to bumper traffic traveling all of 10 miles. I'm sure I'll use and enjoy the vents.

    I bought the ducts, hight temp hose and bulkhead valves with clutch style cable from FinishLine. Same components Cobra Earl use to sell I believe. The fans are marine bilge blowers. When I located the valves and the blowers I didn't like how tight the hose had to bend. The high temp hose is pretty stiff. I had seen others use an aluminum or plastic elbow at the valve so the hoses didn't kink. I found these 3" adjustable duct elbows. The height is good and you can create the perfect angle but they are pretty flimsy.


    I had a half a sheet of adhesive heat shield left over so I cut some strips and wrapped the elbows. The heat shield set the adjustable elbow in place and stiffened them up nicely. That stuff is nasty sharp but if you don't bleed on your projects every once in a while you are just mailing it in.


    Hoses sit in nicely now without any kinks.


    Driver's side was even tighter before the added elbows. I ran the clutch cable control for the valve through the aluminum with a tight grommet. Have not determined exactly where I want the knobs. I'll figure that out when I get the dash mocked up.


    Inside of the FinishLine valves.


    So far, so good. I'll wire the blowers next.
    -Steve
    I like those blowers. I live in Florida and it gets too hot down here.

  33. #73
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Hidden Wiring

    The Coyote engine cover does a great job of hiding the stock wiring harness. With the MMR manifold I needed/wanted to come up with a way to hide or improve the look of the lumpy wiring harness.



    Since I was going to prune away the CMCV leads, the Supercharger and A/C leads I started to think about hiding the harness under the manifold. This was probably a byproduct of walking through SEMA. Hundreds of builds and not a wire to be seen.



    I made these small brackets. They mount on top of the manifold flange and I zip tie the revised harness to them so the harness is suspended, rather than resting on the motor.



    Well, I started pruning and one thing led to another. That Coyote engine cover was looking pretty good about now. Yikes



    Everything gets wrapped in heat shield tape, then plastic conduit and classic braid.



    Mostly complete here.



    Look Ma, no wires! This took way, way, way more time than I thought, but happy with the results.



    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  34. #74
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    Last bit of engine wiring. I made the bracket to mount the PCM based on EdwardB's photos. I fabbed a second piece to extend the front to provide a little protection for those big connectors.





    Probably unnecessary but they are directly over the headers so I figured a little heat shield couldn't hurt.



    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  35. #75
    [QUOTE=Straversi;291411]Last bit of engine wiring. I made the bracket to mount the PCM based on EdwardB's photos. I fabbed a second piece to extend the front to provide a little protection for those big connectors.





    Probably unnecessary but they are directly over the headers so I figured a little heat shield couldn't hurt.



    -Steve[/QU
    Nice job on hiding the wires under the intake and the brackets you made for the reservoirs. The mount you made for the Coyote PCM now comes with the installation kit from FFR. They probably copied EdwardB's also, since it is exactly the same. Your engine bay will look pretty slick.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +, Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering.

  36. #76
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    [QUOTE=Paul2STL;291418Nice job on hiding the wires under the intake and the brackets you made for the reservoirs. The mount you made for the Coyote PCM now comes with the installation kit from FFR. They probably copied EdwardB's also, since it is exactly the same. Your engine bay will look pretty slick. [/QUOTE]

    Thanks Paul2STL,

    And yes, I saw that FFR updated their PCM bracket after a couple of strange iterations. Considering all of the vendors and options that FFR supports, they do a pretty amazing job of constantly updating their kits and keeping up with vendor changes. When Ford changes their IRS or Coyote components, you can bet they don't give FFR a heads up.

    Luckily we have great forum members who provide detailed photos and descriptions of all their modifications. It would be nice to have perfect parts and updated manuals but I'd rather FFR use their limited engineering resources to innovative and continue to support new motors and suspensions. If we have to fab a few brackets every once and a while, so be it.

    I still can't believe that FFR will sell a kit to a knucklehead like me, allow me drop a 400+ hp state-of-the-art motor in it and still hang their name on it. Massachusetts must have friendlier product liability laws than California. Well, that goes without saying.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  37. #77
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381

    Competition Dash and Glove Box

    Competition dash, hidden mounting, glove box, grab handle for passenger. Hmmm, sounds like EdwardB. Yep, 100%.

    I wasn't planning to make my own glove box. By the time I purchased a glove box and recovered it or sent the vendor my leather, it seemed like I might as well just make my own. Anyway, I was waiting for Ford to send me back my PCM so I had the time and I like these kinds of projects.

    I had originally purchased the FFR padded dash but I didn't want to use the standard ignition and light switch locations so I sent it back in exchange for a blank dash. Before I sent it back, I traced it on paper so I would have the glove box shape and gauge locations as a reference.

    I positioned the gauges and made a few sight line adjustments for my height.



    Cut my holes with an adjustable circle cutter on the drill press. These bits chatter and grab if you just clamp your material down but if you secure the dash to plywood with sheet metal screws they cut very smooth.



    I traced the glove box shape on to MDF board, cut 4 of the 3/4" thick boards to give me a 3" deep form. Traced the same shape on to aluminum for the back panel and then twice more for the inner and outer panels for the door. These two had to be undersized for the thickness of the leather on the dash and on the door.

    I cut the mounting collar out of 1/8" aluminum. My first attempt was out of thinner material but it wouldn't hold the shape very well. 1/8" did the trick. For a 3" deep glove box, I cut the thin gutter flashing 4 1/4" wide so I'd have 5/8" tabs to fold over the rear panel and over the front mounting collar.

    All of the pieces pre assembly.



    I covered my form in parchment paper so the JB Weld wouldn't lock it on the form permanently. Secured the sides with a surfboard strap and folded the tabs over. Applied the JB Weld and held it in place with some weights.



    I painted the back with Lizard Skin to give it a more solid feel and I will line the interior with leather.



    The glove box is mounted with counter sunk bolts. I counter sunk and epoxied these bolts in place. I'll mount these with regular nuts and thread lock, rather than nylock nuts. The dash will be covered in leather covering these screw heads so I'll need to be carefull not to break the screws loose.



    So far, so good.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-25-2017 at 10:29 PM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  38. #78
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    3,834
    Looking good! And familiar. Glad my sharing helped you out.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  39. #79
    Senior Member Straversi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Palos Verdes, CA
    Posts
    381
    I made a test panel so I could figure out how oversized to cut my gauge holes and how undersized to make my glove box doors to account for the leather that will get pulled over the edges. I also wanted to practice with the leather, foam and glue to see what I'd be working with. This was time and effort well spent.



    Temporarily installed dash. You can see the counter sunk screws smoothed over with JB Weld and sanded smooth.



    I made EdwardB hidden dash mounting brackets from 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum angle. JB Weld and flush rivets attach the brackets to the back of the dash. I counter sunk the panels so the rivets protruded just a fraction, then ground the rivet heads flush. If I countersunk the panel too deep the rivets didn't grip fully.

    I used the McMaster nut plates, same as EdwardB. I don't have any good photos of the back of the assembly.



    I used the partial Leather Steering Wheel Wrap from Tangent Co. (Supporting Vendor). I really liked the stitched leather look and feel and wanted to do something similar with the grab handle. I tried to find a small piece of 1/8" thick x 2-3/8" x 7-1/2" leather that would match the steering wheel wrap, but no luck. I emailed Tangent and asked if they had any scraps or blems I could buy. If not, I was just going to buy a second kit. Chris found a blem he'd had lying around his office for several months. Sent it to me no charge. Love great vendors!!!



    Also made the EdwardB grab handle support braces that secure the grab handle to the 2" frame.

    Thanks again Paul! All of your documentation and photos are priceless.

    This project kept me sane while I was trying to troubleshoot my electrical issues.

    -Steve
    Last edited by Straversi; 08-26-2017 at 09:04 AM.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  40. #80
    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    757
    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    I was just re-reading your thread. Somehow this mod eluded me the first time through. This is a really great modification. You will find this much more comfortable than the stock panel. I'm no where near 6'6", but even my short legs don't exactly appreciate the corner that my right leg rests against. The worst part is that now that mine is all but done, getting back to this panel would be a real chore. I guess I will put this one in the file in case I have to remove the engine at some point. Maybe I will do it then. (Of course maybe I will get bored not having a project to work on and do this over the winter!!) Excellent Job!
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered 7/30/15. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered 11/25/15, First Start 12/24/16, First Go Cart, 1/6/17, Licensed and Legal 11/20/17. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor