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Thread: Radiator protection

  1. #1
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Radiator protection

    How many of you have a mesh or perforated sheet over the radiator for debris protection? Stainless vs. Aluminum vs.?? Percentage of open area in the mesh/screen? Those of you without a screen, have much trouble with debris damaging the radiator? And as always, pictures. Thanks all.
    Last edited by boat737; 10-15-2016 at 08:27 AM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    Last edited by Real time recon; 10-15-2016 at 06:08 AM.

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    Senior Member Paparazzi's Avatar
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    I also have the nomex honeycomb from Speedway. Simple to trim to size, the only negative being that it's brown so you'll need to spray to colour match. I did mine silver to match the interior aluminium. Only 300 miles on it, but no problems so far. I got the plastic ties from Speedway which push through the radiator grill to affix, but realised that I'd have to take off the shroud which would be a pain, so I just jammed it in tight. The lower lip of the metalwork holds it in nicely and with the top held tight by a Breeze hood hinge I've found no need to make it more permanent.

    IMG_20160609_181855.png
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    Senior Member ram_g's Avatar
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    3rd recommendation here for the Speedway nomex honeycomb stuff. I have it just wedged against a retainer at the top that I made from angle aluminum. Spray painted black. I can't recall exactly when I did mine but I bet I have 1000 miles on it so far, or close. No issues with airflow and works great for protection.
    FFR Mk3.1 #6720. Carb'd 302. Fun.

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Thanks all. I take it that most have the mesh flat against the radiator, and not up behind the oval inlet?
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    4th on the Nomex. Great product. I live in Minnesota and most of the impacts are bugs, even June bugs at 70 mph do not dent. Just power wash it off. Lays against the radiator and mine attached with a plastic strap that goes through radiator. If it ever does get damaged only takes a few minutes to change out. Cut the Nomex to size, remove the old and replace.

    IMG_0564.jpg

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    100_1013.JPG100_1015.JPG100_1017.JPG100_1024.JPG100_1025.JPG100_1026.JPG100_1027.JPG

    I used a pet screen that is normally installed on your screen door to prevent you dog from running through it. Just make sure whatever you use to allow room (a couple of inches) between the screen and the radiator.

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
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    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Another vote for nomex. I found it locally at industrial metal supply, $10 for a 4'x4' sheet. Cut to fit, paint, install. I hav a radiator shroud and the nomex is pinned in behind it.

    It lets a TON of air through too:






    Installed:



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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Another vote for nomex. I found it locally at industrial metal supply, $10 for a 4'x4' sheet. Cut to fit, paint, install. I hav a radiator shroud and the nomex is pinned in behind it.

    It lets a TON of air through too:
    It looks good, but I also like the custom shroud with the stripe pattern continuation you set-up.

  10. #10
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I tried getting some of that Nomex product, and I haven't been able to find anyone who sells it in Canada..Any Canuck's know of a source for it?

    I had a aluminum screen on my roadster, attached to the body opening. Worked great as far as road debris, and didn't affect the cooling one iota.
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  11. #11
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    While better safe than sorry can be a good plan, I have 9 years and 38000 miles on mine w/ no protection and the radiator is fine .
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  12. #12
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    While better safe than sorry can be a good plan, I have 9 years and 38000 miles on mine w/ no protection and the radiator is fine .
    On the street/freeway?
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    I used some 1/4" SS mesh from Pegasus. After all these years of racing and highway driving, all the fins are still straight.

    Whatever you use, space it up off the radiator core a little bit. Otherwise, any reasonable force will be transmitted back to the core.
    .boB "Iron Man"
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  14. #14
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    I also used the Nomex sheet - bought it from Speedway, along with a package of the push-through plastic pins that hold it in place (they have large round heads and go straight through the radiator between the cooling fins).

    I painted mine black using Rust-o-leum and it's held up great over the past 7,000 miles - no fade or chipping. One thing, though, is to make sure that it's removeable so that you can replace it if that is ever needed.

    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    My friend just installed the honeycomb and I saw it yesterday. It looks very nice.

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    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Honeycomb here sprayed black.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I've used the Nomex honeycomb. It's easy to fit and works great. Multiple seasons and still looks good. For #7750, I used 3641-24X36 Medium Mesh Stainless, #6 x .035 Wire, 24 x 36" Sheet from Pegasus. Put it in a frame so it stands slightly away from the radiator and had it powder coated. I'm really happy with that setup and planning the same for the current build. As far as whether you need it or not, only takes once to make it worth it. Cheap insurance for an expensive part (radiator) that can disable the car if punctured.



    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    My radiator fins were dinged when i got it and looked pretty bad. I just installed the honeycomb, it really looks great. In the past I only saw it for sale at speedway, but now summit racing sells it.

  19. #19
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    The suggestions sound good. I don't know what your flow needs are. Here in AZ in the desert I was concerned that some materials might restrict the flow to the point of choking off the flow just enough to cause overheating. So I go a honey cone still metal screen the flows about 85%. So the size of the vanes and overall design of the material matters. My other way of mitigating the effects was to get the highest rated pullers (dual) I could find with an integrated shroud that really sucks the air thru when at low speed and passes air thru rubber baffles when the air flow increases with speed to avoid restrictive flow.

    Good luck in your choice,

    WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  20. #20
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Thanks all. I take it that most have the mesh flat against the radiator, and not up behind the oval inlet?
    Please ignore my crooked bumper, still getting that oriented properly:



    I prefer the blacked out look but wanted some kind of protection for my new aluminum radiator.

    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, I² electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Thanks all. I take it that most have the mesh flat against the radiator, and not up behind the oval inlet?
    I've got at least 2-inches between the mesh and the radiator. If it's tight against the radiator, it won't provide any protection from rocks etc.

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  22. #22
    Senior Member ram_g's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray View Post
    I've got at least 2-inches between the mesh and the radiator. If it's tight against the radiator, it won't provide any protection from rocks etc.

    Ray
    I think that depends on the type of the protector. If it's a steel mesh, then I totally agree with you. The nomex honeycomb, on the other hand, is a semi-flexible material that acts as a shock absorber and really does cushion the impact of rocks etc. - you can see where the individual cells deform and crush and spread out / absorb the impact. Almost like a miniature crumple zone.
    FFR Mk3.1 #6720. Carb'd 302. Fun.

  23. #23
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Honeycomb sprayed black

    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 12-10-2017 at 01:26 PM.
    Kevin
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  24. #24
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    Thanks!

    [QUOTE=Paparazzi;254229]I also have the nomex honeycomb from Speedway. Simple to trim to size, the only negative being that it's brown so you'll need to spray to colour match. I did mine silver to match the interior aluminium. Only 300 miles on it, but no problems so far. I got the plastic ties from Speedway which push through the radiator grill to affix, but realised that I'd have to take off the shroud which would be a pain, so I just jammed it in tight. The lower lip of the metalwork holds it in nicely and with the top held tight by a Breeze hood hinge I've found no need to make it more permanent.

    IMG_20160609_181855.png[

    Great help, just what I needed!!

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