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Thread: FiTech/RF wiring question

  1. #1
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    FiTech/RF wiring question

    I know a number of you out there are running the FiTech so I'm coming to forum for some help. I am trying to finalize the wiring for my EFI to the RF harness. I am running a Pertronix "ready to run" dizzy which lands me on page 9 of the FiTech instructions. Canister coil, no ignition box, and a two wire ready to run distributor.

    http://fitechefi.com/tech-posts/inst...o-efi-systems/

    Wiring the dizzy to the coil is pretty straight forward but the confusion sets in with what to with the two wires marked EFI/Coil and EFI Crank Power in the RF harness. Ron states the EFI/Coil is the Key on -Run Power wire and the EFI Crank power wire is the Start Power wire.

    Right now, I have the RF EFI/Coil wire (Orange) run to the positive side of my coil and I am about to cut/solder the RF light Blue EFI/Crank power wire to the FItech white wire. In the FiTech wiring chart it states:

    White Wire - "On/Off Connect this wire to a switched 12v circuit. Must be on during both "key on" and "cranking". DO NOT connect to the coil terminal when using an external ignition box such as MSD 6A or any other external CD ignition".

    It's the above statement that made me stop what I was doing and ask for some help. Do I have the RF EFI/Coil and Crank Power wires confused?

  2. #2
    Member Stroked65Coupe's Avatar
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    I am running the Petronix ignitor III with the Petronix coil and connected the white wire to the positive lead on the coil. Started right up and seams to run great. Have not taken it for a ride yet because I still need to run the vent line from the fuel center back to the tank. I am traveling right now so it will be a couple weeks before I can run the line.

    Good luck with your install.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stroked65Coupe View Post
    I am running the Petronix ignitor III with the Petronix coil and connected the white wire to the positive lead on the coil. Started right up and seams to run great. Have not taken it for a ride yet because I still need to run the vent line from the fuel center back to the tank. I am traveling right now so it will be a couple weeks before I can run the line.

    Good luck with your install.
    what wire from your ignition do you have running to your positive coil post?

  4. #4
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    I think I got em switched. And no pun intened.

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    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Bump....

    Anyone have any solid advice? I just read a post from Wallace18 that is throwing a monkey wrench in my thoughts of what is right or not. I made the change to my wiring stated above in that I have the Lt. Blue EFI Crank Power wire (Ron depicts this as the Start Power wire) connected to the positive coil post and the white wire from the ECU that must be connected to a switched source such as "Key on" and "Cranking" (ON/OFF) to the Orange harness wire labeled Coil/EFI (Ron depicts this wire as Key on - Run Power wire).

    Wallace18 is stating the exact opposite of what I did and how I originally wired it.

    "Orange goes to + side of coil.
    Blue goes to ECM for crank signal if Carb you do not need it.
    Gray and green go to your speed sensor on you transmission for the speedo to read MPH. If you have GPS speedo not needed.
    Purple in engine compartment goes to -side of coil
    Purple in dash goes to tach."

    I have to believe Wallce18 is correct but the fact that Ron Francis states the orange wire (Coil/EFI) is a KEY ON-RUN POWER wire and that Fitech says the white ECU wire needs to be attached to a Key on and during cranking. Has me completely confused.

  6. #6
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    If anyone stumbles across this thread, how Wallace18 instructs to wire up the ECM to the RF harness is correct. I ran the scenario by FiTech support and they confirm. Just note the speed sensor wires aren't supported by an FiTech, or at least the model I have.


    "Orange goes to + side of coil.
    Blue goes to ECM for crank signal if Carb you do not need it.
    Gray and green go to your speed sensor on you transmission for the speedo to read MPH. If you have GPS speedo not needed.
    Purple in engine compartment goes to -side of coil
    Purple in dash goes to tach."

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    RickP,
    Thank you for posting this question and solution. I'll be wiring my Fitech soon, and wasn't sure which RF (carb or efi) wiring to use. BTW, There is a guy (Brian1967 on ffcars) in Bucks County, PA that has just installed a fitech on his build. Looks like he's 26 miles away from Boyertown, PA. You two may be able to compare notes.
    Dave

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    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DadofThree View Post
    RickP,
    Thank you for posting this question and solution. I'll be wiring my Fitech soon, and wasn't sure which RF (carb or efi) wiring to use. BTW, There is a guy (Brian1967 on ffcars) in Bucks County, PA that has just installed a fitech on his build. Looks like he's 26 miles away from Boyertown, PA. You two may be able to compare notes.
    Dave
    Thank you Dave, I will have to reach out to Brian1967. Thank you for the heads up. The wording in the RF instructions coupled with what is stated in the FiTech installation instructions threw me off. I know Wallace18 has an FiTech so he is speaking from experience. Even the tech at FiTech was initially confused as he was advising me to wire the FiTech white wire to both RF EFI wires. No need for that as one of them goes to coil (positive) which just happens to be the Orange Coil/EFI labeled wire. That only leaves one wire left of relevance from the RF harness and it goes to the FiTech white wire. In order to drive your tachometer, run the purple coil wire to your coil neg. post. The system takes some time to wire up but other than the two RF wires, it's pretty straight forward. I am going for a "first start" this Sunday so I will flush out any wiring problems. If you run into issues, give me a shout and I can share what I did.

  9. #9
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    I just wanted to follow up on this thread incase someone comes along seeking the same "how to wire" up the Fitech. I just want to say what is stated above, will not work. My pain is your gain on this one

    To clarify what is being wired is a FiTech 600hp using no external ignition box and a Pertronix two wire ready to run dizzy to a MSD blaster coil. First off, purple coil wire runs to your + post on the coil, not the negative. The Orange Coil/EFI wire from the Ron Francis Harness runs to the white FiTech wire AND your coil positive post. The EFI Crank PWR (Lt. Blue wire/RF Harness) is for timing retard, which in my setup is not used.

    To sum this up and simplify, the FiTech white wire needs a constant 12v during Key-On and Cranking and that's exactly what the COIL/EFI does. I had wired the white FiTech wire to the Lt. Blue EFI Crank wire and what you will end up getting is no power to the FiTech pump wire. Another side symptom seen is the FiTech controller could not recognize the ECU.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RickP View Post
    I just wanted to follow up on this thread incase someone comes along seeking the same "how to wire" up the Fitech. I just want to say what is stated above, will not work. My pain is your gain on this one

    To clarify what is being wired is a FiTech 600hp using no external ignition box and a Pertronix two wire ready to run dizzy to a MSD blaster coil. First off, purple coil wire runs to your + post on the coil, not the negative. The Orange Coil/EFI wire from the Ron Francis Harness runs to the white FiTech wire AND your coil positive post. The EFI Crank PWR (Lt. Blue wire/RF Harness) is for timing retard, which in my setup is not used.
    Resurrecting an old thread

    Hey RickP

    Reading through this thread again, I want to make sure I understand the final wiring you came up with:

    Purple coil wire runs to your + post on the coil
    The RF Harness Orange Coil/EFI Wire connects to the FiTech White Wire AND the + post on the coil.
    The RF Lt. Blue wire is for the timing
    Gray and green go to your speed sensor on you transmission for the speedo to read MPH. If you have GPS speedo not needed.
    Purple in engine compartment goes to -side of coil
    Purple in dash goes to tach

    Thanks,
    Dave
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
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    DadofThree and RickP,

    After coming across this thread, I too am wondering about this EFI/Ready to Run dizzy wiring now. I have a Ready to Run MSD distributor with MSD blaster coil and the same FiTech 30002 EFI. I just finished the wiring for the car and I am about to install the engine/tranny. It is wired as described below, but perhaps incorrectly now?? Perhaps a call to FiTech to find out their thoughts is needed if I don’t hear back from you.

    RF side
    RF EFI bundle:
    Orange wire “Coil or EFI” to positive side of coil. (RF manual does state this is key on – Run power)
    Lt Blue wire “EFI crank” - not used
    Gray wire “Speed sensor” - not used
    Green wire “Speed sensor” - not used
    RF Sending unit bundle:
    Purple wire “Coil/Tach” to negative side of coil and other end to Tach gauge, but you are running it to the positive side?

    FiTech side:
    White wire “Keyed” to Ignition switch “Ignition” post (Not sure what the difference is between locating it here versus connecting it to the orange “Coil or EFI” wire?) Don’t they both get powered when the key is in both the "on" and "crank" position??
    Black wire “Coil” - not used in my situation: non-timing controlled.)
    Blue wire “Tach” to gray “tach” wire from MSD distributor (According to MSD manual, this produces a clean 12V, square wave pulse good for tachs and “some” EFI systems). Perhaps I should use the MSD "gray" wire for the tach gauge instead by running the RF purple wire “Coil or EFI” to this instead?? (I don't understand, why the RF purple wire to the + side of the coil)??
    Red wire “Batt” to battery power
    Orange wire “Pump” to RF fuel pump relay
    Yellow wire “Fan1” to RF Radiator fan relay

    Any thoughts or suggestions?
    Last edited by dnew; 02-06-2017 at 11:55 AM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DadofThree View Post
    Resurrecting an old thread

    Hey RickP

    Reading through this thread again, I want to make sure I understand the final wiring you came up with:

    Purple coil wire runs to your + post on the coil - Correct
    The RF Harness Orange Coil/EFI Wire connects to the FiTech White Wire AND the + post on the coil. (orange runs to + side of coil, blue wire goes to efi white )
    The RF Lt. Blue wire is for the timing
    Gray and green go to your speed sensor on you transmission for the speedo to read MPH. If you have GPS speedo not needed. - correct
    Purple in engine compartment goes to -side of coil - correct
    Purple in dash goes to tach - correct

    Thanks,
    Dave
    Not sure what gauges your running but if you have the Auto Meter gauges, the speedo gets a little funky if your speed sensor is a two wire. Can't remember which wire it is but you will need to send it to ground

  13. #13
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnew View Post
    DadofThree and RickP,

    After coming across this thread, I too am wondering about this EFI/Ready to Run dizzy wiring now. I have a Ready to Run MSD distributor with MSD blaster coil and the same FiTech 30002 EFI. I just finished the wiring for the car and I am about to install the engine/tranny. It is wired as described below, but perhaps incorrectly now?? Perhaps a call to FiTech to find out their thoughts is needed if I don’t hear back from you.

    RF side
    RF EFI bundle:
    Orange wire “Coil or EFI” to positive side of coil. (RF manual does state this is key on – Run power)
    Lt Blue wire “EFI crank” - not used
    Gray wire “Speed sensor” - not used
    Green wire “Speed sensor” - not used
    RF Sending unit bundle:
    Purple wire “Coil/Tach” to negative side of coil and other end to Tach gauge

    FiTech side:
    White wire “Keyed” to Ignition switch “Ignition” post (Not sure what the difference is between locating it here versus connecting it to the orange “Coil or EFI” wire?) Don’t they both get powered when the key is in the “on” position??
    Black wire “Coil” - not used
    Blue wire “Tach” to gray “tach” wire from MSD distributor (According to MSD manual, this produces a clean 12V, square wave pulse good for tachs and “some” EFI systems). Perhaps I should use it for the tach gauge instead by running the RF purple wire “Coil or EFI” to this instead?? and then run the RF purple wire to the positive side of the coil does the other side attach to your tach or (this I don't understand, how are you feeding your Tach gauge)??
    Red wire “Batt” to battery power
    Orange wire “Pump” to RF fuel pump relay
    Yellow wire “Fan1” to RF Radiator fan relay

    Any thoughts or suggestions?
    I can't vouch for a Ready to Run MSD distributor (the kind with the TFI module on the front, if that's what your referring to) but to answer your question about:

    Blue wire “Tach” to gray “tach” wire from MSD distributor (According to MSD manual, this produces a clean 12V, square wave pulse good for tachs and “some” EFI systems). Perhaps I should use it for the tach gauge instead by running the RF purple wire “Coil or EFI” to this instead?? and then run the RF purple wire to the positive side of the coil does the other side attach to your tach or (this I don't understand, how are you feeding your Tach gauge)??

    There is a purple wire in your dash harness labeled "tach" which goes to the back of your tachometer. The Fi tech blue wire labeled "tach" goes to the negative side of your coil assuming your not using timing control.

    White wire “Keyed” to Ignition switch “Ignition” post (Not sure what the difference is between locating it here versus connecting it to the orange “Coil or EFI” wire?) Don’t they both get powered when the key is in the “on” position??

    The Orange wire gets power after the lt. blue wire labeled (Crank Power). You want constant power applied to the white wire during "cranking", after that, no power is needed to the white wire.

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