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Thread: Quick, Talk some sense into me!

  1. #41
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    I've been trying to gauge how far the fronts got pushed in by looking at the radiator hoses. This one is a little unique in that it was corner damage. It looks a little too high to hit the timing gears, but the bumper is scraped up right there, too. I'd think the bumper would have to have cracked or broken if it ever went in that far, but I wanted to check. I'll probably bid on this one. Thanks!!

  2. #42
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    Well, I finished my last semester. 37 years old, finally got a bachelor of science degree in math, with a 3.98 GPA.
    Congrats!

    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    This is where the wife parks, but she's going to switch with me since my hyundai is shorter than the minivan, and I'll have more room in the tandem part of the garage.

    BUT the tandem part is going to take some work. Since I haven't been out there doing anything since early summer, it's kinda collected a bunch of....stuff.
    That could be sort a tight workspace. Speaking from experience, also building in a tight space, I'd recommend having a dolly so you can back your daily driver out, and wheel the donor/kit forward to give you more more to work on it.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    Congrats!
    Thanks!


    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    That could be sort a tight workspace. Speaking from experience, also building in a tight space, I'd recommend having a dolly so you can back your daily driver out, and wheel the donor/kit forward to give you more more to work on it.
    Kind of a crappy picture. The side I'll be working on is the tandem side. I can fit the minivan and my hyundai over there, front to back, with room to walk around and between them. I do plan on using a dolly though, and parking my sled outside during work hours. Should be enough room to store whatever I'm working on between the two of them overnight. Got another auction bid working tomorrow. Hopefully this will turn into my donor thread soon!

  4. #44
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    3.98 I'm very impressed! Good luck on the next auction bid.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  5. #45
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    Won it!! 2006 Saab 92x linear, 2.5 turbo. Gotta set up shipping and see what I get. WooHoo!!!!

  6. #46
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    The perfect Christmas gift! Or, is it your graduation gift? Either way, you are starting the new year with a 2005 2.5 turbo (the perfect donor, I think) and you'll be able to sell off parts to make it even less expensive, or free. Congrats!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  7. #47
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    Hey macncheese, i thought the aero was the only turbo model?
    in 2006 was the linear turbo too?

  8. #48
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    Congrats!

  9. #49
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    Too jazzed to type straight. It's the aero model, 2.5 turbo. Can't wait to get it in here and see what all is broken.

  10. #50
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    Awesome!! Can't wait to see some pics. What was the winning bid?

  11. #51
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    825 I was really hopeful that the WRX was suffering from high prices because of fanboi-ism (I lost about a dozen auctions at over $2000, several went back up for auction because they didn't meet the reserve). After fees and shipping, I expect to be out less than I would have spent for the winning bid on a WRX/Legacy. Once I get my deposit back from my broker, I'll write up my experience. I've seen a lot of questions about the auction process, and I still had a ton of questions.

  12. #52
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    FormatFactory20161224_113602.jpg

    My new 220 outlet. Larger compressor and a welder should make this job a little more fun!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by turbomacncheese; 12-26-2016 at 12:29 AM. Reason: Picture

  13. #53
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    I did the same thing. Didn't have a welder or air compressor until starting this project. Now have two 220 outlets, one for each. Probably spent as much in tools and lights on this project as I did on the car itself. It's been nice, but I have already outgrown all the large tool cabinets I bought.

  14. #54
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    Sweet. We were getting a little close on the panel capacity, so I had to make a choice. I have wire in the wall that will support 30 amps if I want to step up later, but I think I can make do with 20 so the box and breaker were a lot cheaper.

    Right now I'm running two portable 8 gallon pumps. The second serves as a reservoir to cut down cycling unless I need more volume. Then I have to run a big fat extension cord to an outlet on a separate circuit. The biggest influence here was that all the 120V welders I can find are either very under powered or stupid expensive. This will open up my options a little.

    Spent ALL Saturday in the garage trying to get it cleaned up. Decided to hire a trash guy to come get stuff so I don't have to rotate it out to the curb a little at a time over the next few months.

  15. #55
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    FormatFactory20161230_182716.jpgFormatFactory20161230_182827.jpgFormatFactory20161230_182846.jpgFormatFactory20161230_183202.jpg

    Well, it's finally here. Exciting day for me!! The giant oil drain pan in the back suggests regular oil changes, and a sticker under the hood says it got a new Gates timing belt about 30,000 miles ago. Alternator, AC Compressor, and Radiator look really clean, so they may be relatively new as well. Bonus: kind of a nice sirius radio, too. However, the STI floormats and shift knob, rear strut bar, racing pedals, and wheel rash suggest it wasn't driven nicely. Also an old radiator cap (new one on the radiator), antifreeze, and power steering fluid suggest it wasn't in the greatest running shape. Also, looks like the timing cover did, in fact, get smacked and is cracked. Clutch pedal feels pretty stiff for a factory car...is that normal or upgrade? Not sure if it's relevant, but the pedal stops about a half inch from the carpet. I can push it all the way down but it definitely feels like a half-inch up is the normal stop.

    I had hoped to jump it and see if it would run before ripping it out. Part of me figures any damage done to the engine is already done and I've got nothing to lose. The other part thinks maybe it isn't worth the hassle. Any downside to pulling the Radiator/condenser so I can get to the plastic cover, make sure it turns over by hand, and then trying to fire it up without the radiator installed? Somewhere between 30 seconds and a minute would satisfy me. It would be nice to take it up and down the street to check that the transmission works, but that would only tell me about R,1 and 2. Is there a better way to turn the motor over by hand? Is it overkill at this point?

  16. #56
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    Bad news. I pried that cover back, and it looks like the timing belt is shredded. Guess the heads will come off before anything else happens.

  17. #57
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    Not enough room to even pull the radiator fans out. Gotta pull the whole apart, it looks like.

  18. #58
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    timing belt is completely severed? or just torn?

    I would take off the front bumper cover, cut the upper radiator core support with a sawzall. take off the timing covers and check the timing, a friend of mine had one that jumped a tooth or two with no internal damage

  19. #59
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    The part I can see is split down the middle lengthwise, looks pretty loose.

  20. #60
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    Just read a couple of threads (and watched a youtube video) of ej25s that had broken timing belts and suffered 0 catastrophic damage. I'm going to proceed with pulling the front of the car off, then if everything rotates, I'll attempt to build a leakdown tester. A bent valve should be pretty obvious at that point. Wish me luck!

  21. #61
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    Just read a couple of threads (and watched a youtube video) of ej25s that had broken timing belts and suffered 0 catastrophic damage. I'm going to proceed with pulling the front of the car off, then if everything rotates, I'll attempt to build a leakdown tester. A bent valve should be pretty obvious at that point. Wish me luck!
    Bent valve gave me the opportunity to teach Michael how to do a valve job in a $600 copart car. We suspected bad valve before we bid.
    Leak down tester at harbor freight is $44.99 (remember you get what you pay for)

    crunch.jpg

    valve.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 01-05-2017 at 01:03 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  22. #62
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    You might want to try replacing the timing belt and doing a compression test before you pull the motor. It's easier to crank the motor when it's still in the car. My timing belt in the wrx got shredded a few years ago because I failed to replace the timing pulleys (at 140k miles). One of them seized up, which caused the timing belt to rip and destroy one of the plastic cam pulleys. When I took the heads off, some of the valves were definitely bent. The HF compression tester worked well.

  23. #63
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    I definitely want to do this before I pull the motor, but I don't wanna buy a belt before I know I need the rebuild. If the leakdown test is promising, I'm sure somebody here will give me a junk timing belt for the cost of shipping. Just need to get out there.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Bent valve gave me the opportunity to teach Michael how to do a valve job in a $600 copart car. We suspected bad valve before we bid.
    Leak down tester at harbor freight is $44.99 (remember you get what you pay for)

    crunch.jpg

    valve.jpg
    Absolutely love this.

  25. #65
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    I definitely want to do this before I pull the motor, but I don't wanna buy a belt before I know I need the rebuild. If the leakdown test is promising, I'm sure somebody here will give me a junk timing belt for the cost of shipping. Just need to get out there.
    If your belt was shredded then won't you need a new belt eventually anyways?

    Also, why do a leakdown test? I would think a compression test would tell you what you really need to know and the results could be compared to factory specs.

  26. #66
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    Pretty sure I have a timing belt I could send you, but they're only about $40 new, and much harder to replace once they're used since the marks have worn off.

    It'd be very easy to be off a tooth and not notice it right away putting on a used one.

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    If your belt was shredded then won't you need a new belt eventually anyways?

    Also, why do a leakdown test? I would think a compression test would tell you what you really need to know and the results could be compared to factory specs.
    Yeah I will, but I'm trying to put it off until the complete rebuild. I'd like to get it registered with a running engine before building a new one. I prefer to start breaking engines in on the first warmup, which I'd like to make the first start. As for the leakdown test, primarily because I can do it without fixing the timing belt at all. It might be a pain to get the right valves shut at the right time, but we'll see. On top of that, a compression test will only tell me if the compression is good, bad, or zero. A leakdown will tell me if there is a bent valve, a hole in a piston, or both. Plus, I've been putting off the leakdown tester...and I really should have one in my toolbox. This gives me a reason.

    QUOTE=phil1734;263072]Pretty sure I have a timing belt I could send you, but they're only about $40 new, and much harder to replace once they're used since the marks have worn off.

    It'd be very easy to be off a tooth and not notice it right away putting on a used one.[/QUOTE]

    That's a good point. I forgot that these engines use that mark, and that it's important because of the length. I'll revisit this after I learn some more. Here comes the weekend!!

  28. #68
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    Confirmed leaky intake valves. Probably bent. Pulled the seats and radio, put the radio in my daily driver. Kinda nice. Certainly better than the one I had.

  29. #69
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    . . . , put the radio in my daily driver.
    That's one positive already! I can't get much done this weekend because I have my fingers crossed for you.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  30. #70
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    20170114_102756.jpg
    Do I need any of this junk from the headlight or can I sell it complete? Also, any idea where to find the plug for the passenger side wires on the hatch? Also, the door strikers...all four look the same...are they? I managed to get one screw out of 3 of them, and no screws out of the fourth. Stopped dead, and broke my screwdriver tip (cheap replaceable ones). Any suggestions there? I'm ok with grinding them off, but replacement screws might be scarce at this rate...
    Last edited by turbomacncheese; 01-15-2017 at 11:19 AM. Reason: Fixing Pic

  31. #71
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    Attachment isn't working for me.

    The Phillips head striker bolts are locktite'd in so hit them with a blow torch before you try to pull them. They are all the same so you only need two.

  32. #72
    Senior Member fastzrex's Avatar
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    My donor had a 133K mile engine and was fortunate not to have front end damage although most of the left side was hurt with both air bags deployed.

    The leak down check showed some low compression but no valve leaks; spraying oil into the cylinders brought the leak down for all cylinders above 85% (71/80) which is pretty good but definitely shows the mileage on the engine. The sparkplugs looked very good (Iridium) with the appropriate color on the porcelain. I have the same feeling as you as I want to have the 818 driving before launching a big rebuild. The last item I want to look at and will do this week is to check valve clearances to make sure there are no tight valve(s).

    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    Yeah I will, but I'm trying to put it off until the complete rebuild. I'd like to get it registered with a running engine before building a new one. I prefer to start breaking engines in on the first warmup, which I'd like to make the first start. As for the leakdown test, primarily because I can do it without fixing the timing belt at all. It might be a pain to get the right valves shut at the right time, but we'll see. On top of that, a compression test will only tell me if the compression is good, bad, or zero. A leakdown will tell me if there is a bent valve, a hole in a piston, or both. Plus, I've been putting off the leakdown tester...and I really should have one in my toolbox. This gives me a reason.

    QUOTE=phil1734;263072]Pretty sure I have a timing belt I could send you, but they're only about $40 new, and much harder to replace once they're used since the marks have worn off.

    It'd be very easy to be off a tooth and not notice it right away putting on a used one.
    That's a good point. I forgot that these engines use that mark, and that it's important because of the length. I'll revisit this after I learn some more. Here comes the weekend!![/QUOTE]
    Last edited by fastzrex; 01-15-2017 at 11:01 AM.
    ~ Mark

    818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
    2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
    2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo

  33. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by phil1734 View Post
    Attachment isn't working for me.

    The Phillips head striker bolts are locktite'd in so hit them with a blow torch before you try to pull them. They are all the same so you only need two.
    Fixed the picture, and thanks, I'll try a torch.

  34. #74
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    Well, after heating those things a little, I was able to turn them out by hand. Absurd, but I have new respect for locktite. Took out the dashboard today, and disassembled the doors down to shells. Hopefully I can sell that junk locally. So far, I've sold the rear seats, floormats, and passenger seat. Counting spare change in the carpet, I've recouped $162.11 so far. I think I could have got a lot more for the seats, but they take up a lot of room in the garage. Cash in hand is better than parts in the way.

    Also realized it has a kartboy short shifter to go along with the adjustable cobb rear sway bar and lightweight cobb crank pulley. STI pitch-stop mount on top of the transmission, so maybe there will be some other goodies, too.

  35. #75
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    Also, the disassembly manual says to set the console piece with the shift boot aside. From reading builds, it seems as though I don't need it. Can I sell this?

  36. #76
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    Found what looks like a matching cobb sway bar up front today, but couldn't find the part that says "Cobb". I'll be able to see better once I get it apart. Also found an STI muffler, a bit banged up. Probably doesn't have much value, and it's surprisingly heavy! STI springs on all four corners. Lots of bent parts underneath. I think some of this stuff I'm trying to sell is just getting in my way and slowing me down.

  37. #77
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    wires.jpg

    Sweet Lord, no wonder people pay for this...

  38. #78
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    20170219_133610.jpg20170219_152511.jpg

    I'd just like to make a shout-out to.....my air tools. Impact wrenches and air hammers, FTW!!!

    In other news, my cheap, Chinese engine lift came with cheap, Chinese bolts. Wouldn't be a big deal except that I put two of the wheels in the wrong places so I had to relocate them. I guess those were single-use bolts
    $10 at Ace got me fixed up. Good thing it was on sale, even from the Chinese import discount. Still $30 cheaper than I budgeted.

    So at that rate, I figure this bucket....
    20170219_105851.jpg
    ...might be worth as much as $600, lol!!

    And what the heck is this thing? Charcoal can? It was connected to the gas filler tube (visible) and the fuel tank.

    20170219_122852.jpg

  39. #79
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    Yes, that's the charcoal canister and other evaporative emissions b.s.

    If you need to meet emissions in your state you'll probably want to keep it. Otherwise most on here delete it or replace it with a smaller, simpler unit.

  40. #80
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    Thanks. I might look into something more reasonable because I want to be eco friendly with as many miles as I'm going to drive this.

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