If you were to build it all again.......

[Cobra-kai]

Hey guys,
I'm new to the forum and am in the beginning stages of deciding what I want my roadster to be like. As of now, I think I want the following:
Big Block (Is the noise a serious problem? (Thinking about the wife here, not me!!)
Handling is my top priority (Built a glass-bodied '32 and unfortunately it was not)
Fuel injected or Carbureted


Car will NEVER be raced


I think I could learn a lot from the first question I want to post:

If you were to build your roadster again from scratch, what things would you change? Another way of asking is, "What mistakes that you made could I learn from?

[Jazzman]

I would seriously consider getting a maxjaxx or other hydraulic lift system of some sort! I'm still seriously considering one!!

[AC Bill]

I would first ask, why a big block if your concerned about the noise?

The FFR three link rear suspension and Koni coil overs, for handling is good, although there are aftermarket set ups that might be better. I would also look at 4 wheel disc brakes, vs rear drum. Stopping is part of handling in my mind. The small block is likely a better overall handling car, and you can get a 427 small block, if you want cubic inches without the weight.
Fuel injection has it's benefits. Easy starting, decent fuel mileage, self-adjusts for altitude changes, for continuous maximum power. A little more complicated setting it all up, but once your good, your good for a long time. No fiddling with the carb, (or carbs) every spring if the car sat all winter.

Worried about the wife, get dual roll bars. Depending where you live, either a heater, or AC, may be a feature she would enjoy too.

If money is no object, I'm sure you will get a ton of great suggestions from our forum members.

[skullandbones]

Hi Cobra-kai,

Build it as if it will be raced. That way you will have enough power, adequate braking, and good handling suspension. It will also solve your big block vs small block issue.

Good luck,

WEK.

[Bobby Doug]

Changes from the basic build cost time and money. Decide ahead of time what you want and what will fit into your budget. I blew thru mine long ago, but I will have what I want in the end.
Doug

[KDubU]

To respond to your questions, any engine in this car will be loud and it's not really the problem, it's the pipes. There are ways of quieting them down, e.g. Slim lines, etc. so big block or small block won't matter. Personally small block is plenty for this car but if you want a BB, go BB. EFI or carb is always a debate, I went carb for simplicity and old school. Both work great, it's a matter of you deciding what is most important. If going EFI, I would look at the Fitech systems that provide a carb look.

The one thing I think I would change is my dash as I went with the precut and it's okay but the speedo is not in the best place. I would consider a comp or custom dash layout. A second item if you can afford is a lift of some sort, it will make things a lot easier but not a must have.

[wareaglescott]

I wouldn't say it was a mistake in my build but if I were to do it again I would have researched what some of the other vendors offer option wise vs what FFR offers a little more carefully. FFR was having a 50/50 sale on options when I ordered and I pretty much went crazy ordering every option from them. I am very pleased with everything but as I have progressed I see parts from other vendors guys on the forum are using that look pretty good. Say for example roll bars or different exhaust options. Of course with the 50% off it would have made aftermarket options come at quite a price difference. Cant say I would have done anything different for sure but in the back of my mind I wish I would have researched that area a bit more to be positive.

[Bob Cowan]

Fitting a BB in a FFR is not an easy task. It can be done, of course. If you are clever enough, you could probably fit a shotgun motor in there. The only real functional advantage to a BB is low end torque. But a 2200 pound car doesn't really need that. There are multiple functional advantages to a well built small block.

This engine made this torque curve. Notice how early it comes on, and how flat it is across the power band. That's with an off the shelf hydraulic roller cam and pump gas. Very easy to drive with a torque curve like that.





That being said, these cars are dreams for us. We want what we want, simply because it satisfys our dreams. If you dream of a BB, then you shouldn't let anyone talk you out of it. I dream of a shotgun motor.

As for handling, it's more about set up and tuning than about parts. If you spend the time to set it up correctly, the base FFR will handle better than almost any other car on the road. Engine selection is sort of important for this too. A stroker small block and a TKO transmission gives you an almost perfect front to rear balance, which makes the car very neutral in the corners. Add the weight of a BB and the bias is towards the front. On the street you'd probably never know the difference, though. On the track you'd have to tune out some mid corner oversteer.

As said above, splurge for the big Wilwoods. Braking is part of handling. Mustang brakes are adequate, Wilwoods are better. It's cheaper and easier to do it now rather than later. Been there, done that.

Are you planning on IRS? You should be. It's a significant improvement in street handling and ride quality. I wouldn't build another car without it.

[Gumball]

Not to sound too inflated here, but I like to think that my only mistakes were more of an operational sort - where I didn't like the outcome of a particular bit of my handiwork - instead of failures in planning.

I guess the biggest thing you can learn from many of the people here - especially those who've built multiple cars - is to have a plan and stick to it. Develop a vision of your car from the outset and then build to that, avoiding scope-creep during the project. Doing so will save you time, money, and effort.

Decide before you place your order just how you're going to use your car and how often. Different uses and the frequency of use will dictate much of your build. Also, decide whether you're looking for a straight-up, by-the-book build or if you're going to incorporate modifications or personalization. Other things to consider is whether you want a traditional, old school look or if you're going for a more modern interpretation of the original car.

Finally, driveability is something to consider. There are different outcomes for different purposes - i.e., drag racing, road course, autocross, high-performance street car, etc. If a street car, do you want a boulevard cruiser, stoplight demon, or comfortable ice cream / dinner out cruiser, or back country speedster?

These are all things to think about, but one thing I found helpful was to close your eyes and "see" your car - what does it look like and how are you using it? Once that is answered, then you know what to build.

Best of luck and keep us posted!!!!

[Gumball]

Big Block (Is the noise a serious problem? (Thinking about the wife here, not me!!)
Handling is my top priority (Built a glass-bodied '32 and unfortunately it was not)
Fuel injected or Carbureted

Just a couple of other comments directed to your initial points....

Noise - Typically, this is a function of exhaust and engine compression (and cam, to a point). Aftermarket pipes can be a bit quieter or more mellow than the ones FFR supplies, particularly after some use and age. Undercar exhaust will be even quieter. Adding catalytic converters will also quiet things down a bit, if those are required in your area. Keeping compression in the 10.5:1 or less range will result in a little less "pop," especially at idle and a smoother cam will tend to appear a little quieter at idle - i.e., in traffic that could make a difference in whether you and your wife are happy with the car.

Handling - If this is a priority, then try and stay light. More horsepower is fast on the straights, but less weight is fast everywhere. As someone else pointed out, you can punch a small block out to 427 cubic inches, which will give you the ability to answer "yes" whenever anyone asks (and they will). Unless you're going with very sticky and large tires in the rear, you're going to be traction limited anyway - regardless of which engine you use. As was also pointed out, set-up and tuning is very important, but don't overthink it at first - build the car and then add or change things if you're unhappy. I've got a pretty good calibrated seat-of-the-pants from being a driving instructor and racer lots of years, and my street-focused FFR has manual steering, no anti-sway bars, and most of the stuff that FFR provided. I did add a few things from the vendors here, such as offset rack bushings and other small bits to improve adjustability and longevity, but overall it was a matter of getting the shocks and springs set just how I wanted them, as well as tire size, brand, compound and pressure.

Fuel - Whether you use a Ford FI set-up or one of the aftermarket versions, the set-up will likely be a bit more difficult and the fuel system will be a bit more complex than if you do a carb, but once you have it all installed and running right, it's a set-it-and-forget-it proposition. That said, there's not much that is more simple and reliable than a Holley (or similar) carb that is properly sized and tuned to the car, but they do require a bit more fiddling when traveling; i.e., elevation changes and such.

Hope this helps!

[GoDadGo]

Here's what I would change if I had to do it all over again:
1. I'd use all stainless steel rivets, just because.
2. I'd buy a Max-Jax or similar 2 post lift like Jazzman suggested.

Here's what I do all over again:
1. I'd still put a 383 SBC and ZF-640 6-Speed Transmission in my Cobra.
2. I'd still put a Moser TSD-500 rear with 3.73's.
3. I'd still do all the little changes and modifications that is making my car very unique and very much my own.

The cool thing about your post is that it made me think, I mean really ponder, about my decision to join the Factory Five Family so that I could build my dream car which is nearing completion and can be viewed below:

https://youtu.be/UJwM5godh88

[Cobra-kai]

Guys, I want to thank every person who responded to my post. I certainly received a number of good ideas. One of the main things I took from these posts was "what do I plan on doing with the car?" I think everything I do to the car needs to be built relative to that question.

I want a car that handles fantastically, and is super-dependable. Though I like the sound of a big block, it's not mandatory. The extra weight of it might actually take away from the handling. I also think that an IRS is a must for what I'm wanting.

I agree that 4 wheel disc brakes are a must. GOT TO BE ABLE TO STOP!!!

The car will be used for "getaway" trips with the wife in the mountains, as well as 100-200 mile rides on the interstate. So you can see why handling is the most important thing to me. I don't ever foresee taking it on a track. Was thinking fuel-injection would be better for altitude changes that we might experience.

Anyway, thanks again guys for your responses. If there is anything else you think of, please let me know.

Cobra-Kai

[2FAST4U]

BB FE sideoiler, IRS, pin drive, and a toploader

[GoDadGo]

Hey Cobra-Kai,

If you want Big Block power at minimal weight, with a very small foot print, then you may want to look at Pace Performance for their LS-3 that has the front drive distributor.
The neat thing about the LS option is it can be easily adapted to the stock FFR mounts, unlike what I did with the traditional 383 SBC.
That power plant is all aluminum, can be picked up for right at 10-K from Pace Performance and has a warranty from GM.
GMP-19301360-CHX - Pace LS3 550HP Carbureted with HEI & As Cast Valve Covers.
Good Luck & Remember To Have Form Follow Function!

Steve

[Mesa Mike]

Plan your wiring harness to include everything you might want and all things you need. Make your dash a "plug-n-play" so you can remove completely by just unplugging the dash from the wiring harness. Plan to try and plug any air leaks from the engine compartment into the cockpit.

[jimgood]

The car will be used for "getaway" trips with the wife in the mountains, as well as 100-200 mile rides on the interstate. So you can see why handling is the most important thing to me. I don't ever foresee taking it on a track. Was thinking fuel-injection would be better for altitude changes that we might experience.

Anyway, thanks again guys for your responses. If there is anything else you think of, please let me know.

Cobra-Kai

I think you're confusing "handling" with "ride quality". Driving 100-200 miles on the interstate certainly favors ride quality. And if you're not racing and mountain roads are your only handling challenge, you can probably get away with a very compliant ride.

[dallas_]

Also, if you are planning 100 - 200 mile rides, consider high back seats. Significantly reduces the wind buffeting.
Like Jim said, ride comfort more than handling. Softer springs and probably IRS.

[Cobra-kai]

I think you're confusing "handling" with "ride quality". Driving 100-200 miles on the interstate certainly favors ride quality. And if you're not racing and mountain roads are your only handling challenge, you can probably get away with a very compliant ride.

You two are exactly right. I am interested in ride quality.

[RickP]

I would seriously consider getting a maxjaxx or other hydraulic lift system of some sort! I'm still seriously considering one!!

I would definitely second that.

[cgundermann]

New Mustang IRS, FFR front spindles, pin drive wheels, electric power steering, Coyote motor and powder coat aluminum panels.