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Thread: cabin heater coolant line routing

  1. #1
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    cabin heater coolant line routing

    I routed my heater coolant lines thought the center tunnel up to a vacuum switched selector valve (so I can shut off flow of coolant to heater bu maintain loop through engine). Biggest concern I have considered is leaks drip into cabin. I figure some strategically placed drain holes might be smart so leaking coolant doesnt go far.

    Love to hear thoughts from you all! If this approach is ok, I am another step closer to starting this thing up!

    -Ben

  2. #2
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    I wouldn't worry about it. There are drain holes in the floor from the factory. I'm running my AWIC lines through the tunnel.

  3. #3
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    Question about your heater, I just purchased on and was going to install it but do I need to have a shut off from the heat exchange to stop the coolant from flowing through there all the time or can I just leave that completely open?

  4. #4
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    The Subaru engine requires coolant flow through the heater hose which is why FFR includes a small U-shaped tube to connect the heater lines. If you install a heater control valve that shuts off coolant to the heater you will stop the flow and may have problems. This heater bypass valve will let you stop the flow of hot coolant through your heater and also maintain flow that the engine likes.

    http://www.myraceshop.com/Heater_Bypass_Valve.html
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the help and suggestion Pete. However, I am honestly wondering if I even need the valve itself? I don't mind having coolant run through the heater core full time as I have a fan control as well as vent louvers that can be shut to stop the hot air from passing through. Will not having the valve and having coolant flow through the core all the time cause any issue is my real question?

  6. #6
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    I think the only problem would be some heat in the cockpit even with louvers closed and fan off. Maybe not a big deal where you live but here in the AZ desert. . .
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  7. #7
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    I think the valve cost me $12

  8. #8
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    No kidding, Pete. I'm considering not running heat to mine (if I ever find a donor and get started). But if I remember last year correctly, we had 3 pretty cold days right around new year, and being the Florida boy that I am, I don't tolerate sub-60s so well, lol.

  9. #9
    Senior Member cmcintyre's Avatar
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    I have installed a Vintage Air heater, lines run parallel on the right side with coolant and an electrically controlled valve that allows coolant flow when shutoff. This heater will not control a vacuum based valve such as the myracechop valve (tried it). The routing, welding to create and install a bracket, and the ducting still to go are easily the most time consuming part of my 3 year build. My 03 donor has widely spaced source tube fittings (the FFR loop would never have worked) and this added to the complexity. Still, looking forward to an additional few months per year of use here in New England.
    " That which is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce

    SN 46 In the building 10/4/13.
    Go Cart 10/20/16
    Coupe Conversion
    EJ205 Wagon donor

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