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Thread: "The Tool Man" #9196 High Performance on a donor budget

  1. #121
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Kearney Nebraska
    Posts
    255
    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    The way we do it on the SBC in the dirt car is to grab a handful of different size hex nuts. Start with a 1/2" hex nut laying flat on the pickup and
    place the pan and gasket on and it should fail to seat against the pan rail. It should wobble a bit because it's resting on the nut. Drop down one
    size at a time on the hex nuts until the pan just starts to lay tight against the gasket and pan rail. Take that nut out and measure for thickness,
    subtract a 1/16" for gasket crush and you know the final clearance from the pan. Everyone has a few spare nuts laying around and you don't
    have to worry about keeping a batch of clay from drying out before the next use. KISS principal at it's best.
    Dale Berry
    That's another good technique, Dale. I do have to admit though...I was sharing my simple method. I withheld the technical method that I've used every time I've designed a pickup tube to be used with a specific pan...I figured not everyone has one of these sitting around in their garage. LOL.
    This is our Faro Edge measuring probe that is accurate to .0015".
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 11-14-2017 at 11:54 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  2. #122
    Not the prettiest of pictures but I bought some more nickle and dime parts. Added up to another few hundred bucks with the sparkplugs, ford racing wires, ford wire holders, -6 an fittings for the fitech, chrome coolant fitting for on top of the manifold, fitech coolant temp sensor, oil pressure sender sensor, simple grommets for the valve covers, trick flow oil fill tube, and other misc parts.






    F5R9196 Hand Built 347-450hp SBF FiTech Go EFI 4 T5Z-2.95 8.8LSD-3.73 3-link 13"-2300K PB
    Real men don't use instructions, son. Besides, this is just the manufacturer's opinion on how to put this together.. ~Tim Allen

  3. #123
    Ready to go to the dyno. When I get it back I will take off the ugly coolant tubes, ugly hose clamps and clean up the details on her after break in.

    24553626468_ae394c5bed_h.jpg

    F5R9196 Hand Built 347-450hp SBF FiTech Go EFI 4 T5Z-2.95 8.8LSD-3.73 3-link 13"-2300K PB
    Real men don't use instructions, son. Besides, this is just the manufacturer's opinion on how to put this together.. ~Tim Allen

  4. #124
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lost Wages, Nevada
    Posts
    140
    In response to your post #122 . . . My wife once said to me, "I sure hope this car isn't going to nickle and dime us to death". My response to her was, "Honey, there isn't anything on this car that costs a nickle or a dime . . . everything starts at $100 and goes up from there."

    She still let me build the car and I've kept it now for 15 years . . . I no longer keep a running total of money spent for 5 and 10 stuff.

    Just thought you should know that little tid-bit. LOL !

    Doc
    Last edited by Big Blocker; Yesterday at 12:23 AM.
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  5. #125
    Ran Fuel lines, made tight turns, and did it using the stock ffr tubing. Its good tubing and with a little technique and using the recommendations in the build manual, I was able to bed it without kinking with a socket and my hands. I also started to setup the brake booster but found I dont have the right line from the booster to the distributor. It appears to be a larger IF style flare fitting but FFR did not include the line for that. What did you all do to make this work? I know I am oviously going to have to buy a short line for that. I also ran the fuel lines up and cut them with a pipe cutter so I will need to flare those but thats easy. Tell me what you all think. The lines routed pretty nicely along the frame and the bends tucked up under the rear deck nicely. I also got some more riveting done. I have broken 6 drill bits now and I have to keep running out to get more. The weird angles and pressure keeps snapping them like a candy cane.





    Last edited by TexasAviator; Today at 10:54 PM.
    F5R9196 Hand Built 347-450hp SBF FiTech Go EFI 4 T5Z-2.95 8.8LSD-3.73 3-link 13"-2300K PB
    Real men don't use instructions, son. Besides, this is just the manufacturer's opinion on how to put this together.. ~Tim Allen

  6. #126








    F5R9196 Hand Built 347-450hp SBF FiTech Go EFI 4 T5Z-2.95 8.8LSD-3.73 3-link 13"-2300K PB
    Real men don't use instructions, son. Besides, this is just the manufacturer's opinion on how to put this together.. ~Tim Allen

  7. #127
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blocker View Post
    In response to your post #122 . . . My wife once said to me, "I sure hope this car isn't going to nickle and dime us to death". My response to her was, "Honey, there isn't anything on this car that costs a nickle or a dime . . . everything starts at $100 and goes up from there."

    She still let me build the car and I've kept it now for 15 years . . . I no longer keep a running total of money spent for 5 and 10 stuff.

    Just thought you should know that little tid-bit. LOL !

    Doc
    That is a good point. I have kept every reciept I have spent on the car and will until its on the road. I want to know what I spent in case anyone ever offers me a fair price for it. I dont want to ever sell it but I never know what the future holds so if its a great offer I might part with it. Otherwise I am doing it to have a solid history of the car and I am OCD.

    You are right though, even a small fitting I bought for the fuel was 7 bucks. Everytime I spend money I end up going into the hundreds on parts orders.
    F5R9196 Hand Built 347-450hp SBF FiTech Go EFI 4 T5Z-2.95 8.8LSD-3.73 3-link 13"-2300K PB
    Real men don't use instructions, son. Besides, this is just the manufacturer's opinion on how to put this together.. ~Tim Allen

  8. #128
    Ok, I trashed the distributor and installed a block in the front and in the rear just after the bias adjustment knob. This way I can adjust the rear if need be and its out of the way. Hand bent all my brake lines. These rhinohide brake lines from edelmanns are really well made and bend easily. I would really have to work hard to make these things kink. Anyway here are all my lines. I feel they came out pretty neat and well placed. This was acutally a lot of fun.









    F5R9196 Hand Built 347-450hp SBF FiTech Go EFI 4 T5Z-2.95 8.8LSD-3.73 3-link 13"-2300K PB
    Real men don't use instructions, son. Besides, this is just the manufacturer's opinion on how to put this together.. ~Tim Allen

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