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Senior Member
Link Bar Lengths
Hi
Can anyone give me the length center hole to center hole of the upper and lower links on a 4 link for a 33 kit.
I would like to start welding up my link bars with Heim joints to prevent binding. Only cost $300 to make both upper and lower. This will keep me busy while I wait for other things to arrive.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
I believe that the rear control arm lengths are all stock fox body mustang for the MK-4, Type-65, FIA and 33 Hot Rod.
Lowers I know are 17 5/8"s, but I'm not sure about the uppers since I'm running the 3 link set up on my MK-4.
Call Dangours Dan Golub or Courtnie Provencher at Factory Five Racing to see if they can give you the information you need.
Good Luck & Happy Welding!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-13-2016 at 04:39 PM.
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Seasoned Citizen
Before looking at heim joints look at Johnny Joints. They're stronger, are rebuildable, and they are a closer fit.
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Originally Posted by
TomH33
Hi
Can anyone give me the length center hole to center hole of the upper and lower links on a 4 link for a 33 kit.
I would like to start welding up my link bars with Heim joints to prevent binding. Only cost $300 to make both upper and lower. This will keep me busy while I wait for other things to arrive.
You should make all your arms 1" longer than the FF lengths so your rear wheels will match the body correctly.
If you look at enough 33's especially ones with fenders you will see that the chassis is 112 and the body is 113"WB
FF did add 1/2" to the WB on their new IRS set-up to correct some of that offset IMO that was because their shop car was built with taller rear tires that show it off more.
You should also be sure to make the uppers with adjustable ends so you can dial in the pinion angle regardless of your ride height. Those short uppers start to tilt the pinion pretty quick with just a little change in ride height.
HTH
DB Hemi33
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Originally Posted by
myjones
You should make all your arms 1" longer than the FF lengths so your rear wheels will match the body correctly.
If you look at enough 33's especially ones with fenders you will see that the chassis is 112 and the body is 113"WB
FF did add 1/2" to the WB on their new IRS set-up to correct some of that offset IMO that was because their shop car was built with taller rear tires that show it off more.
You should also be sure to make the uppers with adjustable ends so you can dial in the pinion angle regardless of your ride height. Those short uppers start to tilt the pinion pretty quick with just a little change in ride height.
HTH
DB Hemi33
Ironically I shortened the wheel base of my MK-4 by 5/8" to scoot the wheel forward to better center the axle in the rear wheel arch of my Roadster.
If extending the wheel base, then you need to make sure that you don't have any shock interference or Heim Joint Bind on the coil overs. This was an issue I had with the brackets on my MOSER TSD-500 Rear that improved when I shortened the lower control arms.
I don't think is an issue with Ford 8.8 lower brackets because most are pretty much open in the back where they attach to the axle.
Measure Twice & Cut Once Is The Rule! (In my case it's measure 7-8 times because I'm OCD Steve aka: GoDadGo)
Steve
NOTE: Spohn Performance Made My New Lowers & I'm Happy With Their Work!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-14-2016 at 10:51 AM.
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Senior Member
Thanks for the info, I am going to mock up my complete rear assembly first. I am using a modified 4 link with a panhard bar. Both top and bottom are adjustable link bars I am making. I plan to use Plastic pipe till I get the correct level and length. I will use Heim joints for the top and jonny joints on the bottom, both have 30 degrees of movement. I will have to space my shock/panhard bar mounts back an inch. This should handle well and not bind. The panhard bar will keep everything were it should be. I will run full fenders and this will put my tires in the middle hopfully.
Thanks again
TomH33
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Originally Posted by
TomH33
Thanks for the info,. I will have to space my shock/panhard bar mounts back an inch. Thanks again
TomH33
Tom
If you look at my build in the gallery you will see that I moved the shock mounts on my build as well. I'll look for a better image to insert here.
I found it easiest to cut the shock ears off the back of the torque boxes and make side plates that bolted to the inside face of the torque box.
That made it easy to move the lower shock eye back and up or down as needed by changing the shape of that plate. Part of why I moved it was
the housing to coil bind, part of it was that I saw several finished cars where the coil over was rubbing paint off of the inside/trunk side of the wheel tubs.
HTH
DB
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http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...6&d=1400001069
Try that one, I also added that ferrule to the upper through bolt in the torque box for more stability.
Dale
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