Let's Create an Electrical Buy List for Wiring from Scratch

[Scargo]

I want to create a spreadsheet and share it with the community. I cannot find that anyone has done this in a comprehensive manner so far. Does anyone have a list of electrical items, wire sizes, dimensions or lengths required, etc.? Do you have an Excel spreadsheet you've worked from if you've wired any of the car from scratch?
I am building an R so there's a fair amount I don't need to include, for my build. I know I could use iWire, but I want to use Spec 55 and 44 wire, have it be very minimal and light and do it my way.
I just want that satisfaction of doing it myself, picking my own components, plus I want a really minimal, light system. Initially, I will not have headlights; I'll have a LED bar for brake lights, battery towards the rear and ECU placed like Bob in Cincy's. Lots of datalogging capability on small-sized shielded wire (where needed).
Many here have contributed substantially towards my objective. iWire has given me lots of ideas on design. I don't intend to limit the information to my R project. I do want to have a document of wire requirements that avoids using (or replaces) any stock WRX wiring. I see it expanding to include water/alcohol injection, supplemental fan and pump wiring, dry sump heating and more.
Let's talk amongst ourselves, share information and let's see if we can get this done. I know some who have bought big rolls of wire, only to use 1/4 of it. I have a long list of places to buy good wire by the foot, 25 foot or by 100 foot increments. Surely we can figure out how to make this more economical and increase the quality of our project!

[Zach34]

Sounds interesting. Wiring is on the horizon for me - hopefully will start by the end of the year. However, my approach will be to re-purpose as much of the OEM wiring as possible.

I already un-wrapped, cleaned, dieted, and re-wrapped the engine harness. You can catch a glimpse of some of it in my build thread. I like that the whole thing can essentially be attached to the intake manifold and connected to everywhere from there. I used the braided heat-shrink on the bulky parts, and I used the self-adhering (no sticky residue) electrical tape at the junctions. I had to replace some of the OEM connectors that were chipped or broken. It turned out well, but it was difficult re-wrapping everything to the correct length. I measured/diagrammed it all on a big piece of cardboard when I started, which was vital.

Unfortunately I didn't really document any of it - I was in a rush to get it done before my move last year. I'll document more of what I do with the rest of the wiring.

[TouchStone]

I took the "from scratch" approach and used only the connectors from the donor harness. I outright rebuilt the ECU connectors. Found new ones from tyco electronics and ordered the pins and crimp tool to run new wires directly to the ECU.

Here is a collection of stuff during my harness build: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Xc?usp=sharing

[Pearldrummer7]

I heavily modified the donor harness, and started to document them all. Towards the end (through a move, a change of role at my job, and a hurried finish to the harness) I didn't finish the documentation part of it. Here's what I started

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...each-connector


Didn't get as far as I wish I did with documentation. I used these for connectors (in 3 sizes- pink/blue/yellow), this as wire wrap(4 sizes total), this for wire (multiple gauges, of course), along with some hand tools, some generic heat shrink, and the OEM diagrams. Nothing fancy at all, but it worked right away and saved me some money.


To make my connections, I put some black heat shrink over the wire and under the butt splice connector. Made a VERY good seal(I submerged test pieces in my sink and the inside didn't get wet). I used Weathertech connectors for anything that needs to be removed often (such as rear lights)

[Scargo]

Frank, I did see your thread and I'm sure that will help a lot of people and me to some degree.
I think I will post a list of similar threads, posts, etc. By no means all but those I found valuable.
So far:
04 WRX connector summary by Bill:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13629-2002-WRX-harness-pictures-of-each-connector&p=183008&viewfull=1#post183008
Redfogo's connector list for a complete wiring harness:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ghlight=wiring
Redfogo's DIY ODBII standalone wiring harness:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21030-DIY-ODBII-working-standalone-wiring-harness&highlight=wiring
Frank818's forum suggestions/documents on wiring plan:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post193054
Frank's (Pearldrummer7) 02 WRX harness/ connectors & other contributions
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...each-connector
iWire's description with pictures. Turn Key 818 Harness for R and S Models:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...R-and-S-Models
iWire's harness installation guide. How to wire an 818 using their harness.
http://media.wix.com/ugd/39dc8e_c968...eed89d259c.pdf
MRG MotorSports 818S Build - Page 3
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post146406
Bob_n_Cincy's wiring project and waterproof ECU panel (within MRG MotorSports 818S Build)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...h-Auto-AC-HVAC
Others?

Touchstone, Thanks for everything you've sent to us here and on FB. I think your contributions and all the others will be very helpful to future builds. I just want to wrap it up with a list of parts and wire so others don't have to do all the research over and over.
On your schematic/drawing the lengths may prove helpful. I do wonder what is meant by the green numbers and notes referring to ring sizes?

[aquillen]

I'll just toss my current spreadsheet out there, for my 3.0 project.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/40k7tcustz...11-25.xls?dl=0

This document is still growing, and wire size is on my short-list. I've measured a lot of wires but wasn't done yet, so it is just scratch notes on paper so far.

Last March, my kit seemed a long way off (July), I was sick with a never ending cold and so just sat in front of my computer drawing 3.0 home brew schematics. Summer has been suspension design time to adapt a 2009 Legacy rear, which is coming to an end. Now with cold weather I'm going back to the electrical stuff in my inside shop where it is warm. Wiring will be pretty much from the ground up but following schematics I was formalizing last spring here:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...2-EZ30-factory

My son-in-law is in the custom harness business (for fire trucks, school buses, etc.), but situation is such I can't get things through him. He is urging me to go with Deutsch connectors anywhere I need to roll my own, and though they cost a fair penny, I'm probably going to do that. This would be for collections of engine sensor/controls mostly, similar to the firewall/bulkhead of a donor, but since I don't have that component, they'd sub for that. Maybe a few other place, that I've not thought through yet. At the sensors themselves, I have the donor M-F bits. But where they'd hit the firewall, I don't have the aggregate connectors, so that's where these would go. Could wire all the way to the ECM and skip larger connector sets, and may decide to do that still. Thoughts?

I planned on going through and adding the wire sizes from all the donor parts (I never bought a donor, but all the electrical stuff I collected here and there is = "donor"). Then I need to decide on wire to buy (depending on what I have already in my rather large collection of stuff). If I do go with new wire, it would be great to sift (again) the threads - including specific ones listed above, thank you Scargo, and mull over what wire all the projects have mentioned. I know some went with ultra performance this and that - teflon, whatever, and then some with a lower price tag.

Another piece of recent info in the spreadsheet pages - I added pin-connects to prep a bench-test setup for the ECU/TCM. The 3.0 seems to be sort of a no-man's land on RomRaider/Tractix as it has never had enough interest in those forums. But there are some bread crumbs I've followed, which give me inspiration and hope to play with it.

And so then about the 3.0 ECM. All sources say "can't be done (manual transmission" and we have to go aftermarket ECM or use an automatic. I love a challenge, and at $2000+ for aftermarket controllers, I'm not crying uncle until I have to.

There are Subaru swap projects out there that did get 3.0's running on manual transmissions, and not much was done other than neutral/clutch signaling. A couple Aussie/Brit threads cover that. The threads seem to fade near each end and so it's never been clear whether they ended up 100% nice. So I'll have to see for myself. Getting the early EZ30's to flash has never been figured out, but there is enough info on RomRaider that I may be able to give hacking some of the ECM a try (I've dabbled in that stuff in the past - not fun but I could get lucky maybe). The reason I'm hooking in the TCM for now (you'll find notes on that in the spreadsheet), on the test bench, is some external post I read stated that the ECM would only connect to Tactrix/RomRaider/ECUedit when it was happy that it's TCM was connected too. So I picked up a relevant TCM for the 2002 ECM so I can keep it happy on the test bench while I snoop into it. I'm hoping at the very least to decode the comm that goes on between the TCM and ECM, maybe (mostly for fun) see if I can't emulate that with a PIC micro-controller and dump the TCM. --- now, all the above is based on the well known fact: "they can't put anything on the Internet that isn't true!".

[TouchStone]

Touchstone, Thanks for everything you've sent to us here and on FB. I think your contributions and all the others will be very helpful to future builds. I just want to wrap it up with a list of parts and wire so others don't have to do all the research over and over.
On your schematic/drawing the lengths may prove helpful. I do wonder what is meant by the green numbers and notes referring to ring sizes?

It's a measurement of the stud or bolt the wire will need to be terminated to. The word "ring" should have been "stud" or "lug" https://www.delcity.net/store/Straig...3.h_801662.t_1

[fastzrex]

Thanks for all the informtion, but are there a list of tools used to remove the pins from the plugs and a source to purchase new pins?

[Pearldrummer7]

I took a piece of scrap steel and ran it into the bench grinder I have. Made a skinny end and a less-skinny end. Basically this idea:

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...-pinning-tool/

[aquillen]

I took a piece of scrap steel and ran it into the bench grinder I have. Made a skinny end and a less-skinny end. Basically this idea:

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...-pinning-tool/

Should be perfectly functional version of the factory tool. I'd polish it to help slide in and out without scratching/binding. Even with factory tools, it is a good idea to look closely at the little locking tab on the connector pin that you just removed. Often the tool will depress the tab so it no longer protrudes out to catch and latch into the shell when you insert it back in. In such cases, bend the tab out ever so slightly so it will latch in place again.

One other tip - find pin/wire(s) that are not used in your 818 project and practice/experiment there first.

[Scargo]

I took a piece of scrap steel and ran it into the bench grinder I have. Made a skinny end and a less-skinny end. Basically this idea: http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...-pinning-tool/

Excellent idea! Great how this community helps each other out!
I have been doing the same or similar. You can de-pin or disassemble a lot of connectors with a cheap set of jeweler's screwdrivers. The windshield wiper strips are useful for many things, as they are quite strong and tough. A hacksaw, jigsaw and coping saw blade can be fashioned into many tools, including a wire sheathing stripper. I have made pin removal tools from small diameter, thin-walled brass tubing (from a hobby supply/crafts store) and ballpoint pen parts.
My cable sheathing stripper made from a hacksaw blade:
wire sheath stripper.png

[UnhipPopano]

Scargo, how does your tool compare to Stanley Hook Knife blades? Both look similar.

[Scargo]

Scargo, how does your tool compare to Stanley Hook Knife blades? Both look similar.

They are similar. I'd forgotten about them. Mine is cheaper! I used a Dremel cutting wheel/disc to make the notch and do the basic sharpening and rounding. I used a piece of blade about five inches long so I could wrap it with duct tape for a handle.
Certainly the Stanley blade can work if tweaked. You want a soft, blunt end that slides along the inside of the sheath but can't snag or cut anything as you go. It's really the bottom of the notch that does most of the cutting if held correctly. I made my first one over thirty years ago. Done properly, they work super slick and won't damage the pairs of wires inside.

[AlfySande]

Hi everyone...i am a new user here. In my case i used the braided heat-shrink on the bulky parts, and I used the self-adhering electrical tape at the junctions. I had to replace some of the OEM connectors that were chipped or broken. It turned out well, but it was difficult re-wrapping everything to the correct length. I measured it all on a big piece of cardboard when I started, which was vital.

pcb assemblies

[Hindsight]

This is going to be highly variable on where you mount certain things, and which options you choose. In my case, I mounted my ECU, ECU Relays, and Traction Control Computer on the shelf formed by the rear firewall above the fuel tank, on the interior side. I mounted my fuse boxes under the dash. I also used a starter solenoid mounted under the dash so the thick cable to the starter was not hot except under cranking.

Due to added gauges and some changes to the wiring, I needed a couple extra connectors so I used GM Weatherpack connectors (some 2 pin, some 4 pin, and a couple of 10 pins). I used TXL or GXL wire from eBay, where wire was needed. To cover wire in engine compartment and under front hood, I used NYLON split braid corrugated loom, wrapped with 3M electrical tape. For inside the car, I used TechFlex F6 split braided sleeve.

All splices were soldered and covered with dual wall 3:1 heat shrink tubing (it has a heat-activated adhesive in it). You can see how I made my wiring loom in detail in my build thread, but it has turned out great.

[Scargo]

...I had to replace some of the OEM connectors that were chipped or broken...

Where did you get your new OEM connectors? Whose braided heat shrink did you use and the self-adhering tape: does it attract dirt want to have things stick to it? Thanks

Hindsight: good info. Many will have variations. One of my goals is to get an overall idea of how much of each wire I need so I don't buy 3-4X what's needed like some have mentioned.