Metal to fiber glass glues

[redfogo]

So I wanted to install a few wiring mounts into the rear fiberglass panel as well as install some screws for my headlights. I am wondering if anyone has found any good glues for such the task. I would rather it not be something that requires a special gun to mix it. If that's my only option then I guess I will buy one. But maybe someone know of a more friendly glue/ epoxy.

[Pearldrummer7]

What did FFR and (I can't remember who made the side scoops everyone has) use?

[redfogo]

What did FFR and (I can't remember who made the side scoops everyone has) use?

Guess I better start digging!

[TouchStone]

I used 10min epoxy and perforated base studs. Prep the surface really well or they pop off. It is also advisable to use a vinyl ester resin on the FFR body panels since its the same material and bonds better. You then have the option of fiber glassing over the stud for extra strength.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3193/=158wyg3

[mikeinatlanta]

Depending on how much you load it pretty anything will work, however, Scotch-weld 3535 or 3532 urethane adhesive will offer a far superior metal/fiberglass bond. You do not want an epoxy for this purpose. If you go the route of perforated studs glassed over then you are better off to make the initial bond with HSRF and then glass over.

[Frank818]

3M 8115 epoxy glue, awesome. A lot of strenght. 90mins working time, 4h clamp time and 24h cure time. No special gun, although it may be cool with one but you just push the glue using a stick and you can easily mix your 2 parts to 1. Only downside is it's a bit expensive, but you do a lot with it.

[Hindsight]

If all you are bonding are metal clips for wiring harness, you don't need to get crazy. Chad posted a good solution that I saw Glyn bump within the last week. It was small metal tabs that accept a zip tie. He also posted a two part quick cure glue that works well on nearly any surface. I am using the glue and tabs and they work great. No soecial tools needed. Sorry I cant remember the name of the glue but it is by loctite and is in his post.

Edit, found it: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-tips!-Sharing

[mikeinatlanta]

3M 8115 epoxy glue, awesome. A lot of strenght. 90mins working time, 4h clamp time and 24h cure time. No special gun, although it may be cool with one but you just push the glue using a stick and you can easily mix your 2 parts to 1. Only downside is it's a big expensive, but you do a lot with it.

No offense, but 8115 is a non structural panel bonding epoxy adhesive. It needs a large contact area and lacks the peel strength needed for this application. While it is great for bonding on large parts that are not subject to significant flex, it will not hold small parts like a urethane.

[STiPWRD]

I agree with the others, since wire is so light, most glues should do the trick. I used 30 minute epoxy and TC-105's to bond my wiring to the fiberglass.
IMAG1838.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZAP-Brand-Z-...AAAOSwQoFWQsSw
There are probably stronger options but this was cheap and works.

[redfogo]

If all you are bonding are metal clips for wiring harness, you don't need to get crazy. Chad posted a good solution that I saw Glyn bump within the last week. It was small metal tabs that accept a zip tie. He also posted a two part quick cure glue that works well on nearly any surface. I am using the glue and tabs and they work great. No soecial tools needed. Sorry I cant remember the name of the glue but it is by loctite and is in his post.

Edit, found it: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-tips!-Sharing

Have you tried it out and saw that it worked on fiber glass well? Also think it will hold in some headlight bolts in place? It sounds promising regardless

Would this kit be enough glue? https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Yello.../dp/B00BFJLXTM to do the job or would you say i should get the bigger size?

[Frank818]

Hey Mike, correct, 8115 is non-structural, which is why I suggested it for wires.

It does hold very well on the long bolts' plastic inserts for the headlight buckets (new nose). I needed to hammer sharply and hard to un-glue them and the contact surface area isn't very large around there.

No idea about peeling. But not that good when flexing, that's true, it can break.

[Scargo]

I used Locktite Hysol E-120HP epoxy adhesive and 3M applicator/dispenser and mixer nozzles. I picked it for the non-sag viscosity, working time, high strength and high temperature resistance. I used one cartridge to do about twenty studs with perforated bases. It is a tan opaque color that somewhat matches the GRP. I cannot comment on performance yet but it should be killer strong.

TECHNICAL SPECS:

• Item Epoxy Adhesive, Hysol E-120HP(TM)
• Type High Temp., Ultra Strength, Non-Sag
• Color Amber
• Size 50mL
• Container Type Cartridge
• Mixing Ratio 2:1

• Temp. Range (F) Up to 300 Degrees
• Full Cure 24 hr.
• Work Life 120 min.
• Shear Strength (PSI) 4300
• Substrates Metals, Thermoplastics, Thermoset Plastics, Glass, Ceramic, Masonry, Paper/Hardboard

Note: I saw Hindsight's comment below and while I can't claim to be an expert on RFP I was an expert on thermoset plastics; mainly castable and injectable urethanes and epoxies. I also know a fair amount about adhesives and solvent bonding, as I had a prototyping business for almost twenty years and plastics fab and machining, silicone rubber molds and castings were our bread and butter.

[Hindsight]

Have you tried it out and saw that it worked on fiber glass well? Also think it will hold in some headlight bolts in place? It sounds promising regardless

Would this kit be enough glue? https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Yello.../dp/B00BFJLXTM to do the job or would you say i should get the bigger size?

Yes I have. Works fine for holding wire harness but headlights need more strength... but I'm not sure specifically what you are needing to glue headlight bolts in for. On my old nose with the old headlights, I had to glue some bonding studs to the bumper that I then bolted support brackets to in order to push the headlights upward and forward for a better fit. There was a lot of stress on these bonding studs so I used epoxy and then layered some fiberglass cloth over them and wet it out with more epoxy. If this is what you are looking to do, I would read Mikeinatlanta's post above - he knows his stuff on composites.

[redfogo]

I used Locktite Hysol E-120HP epoxy adhesive and 3M applicator/dispenser and mixer nozzles. I picked it for the non-sag viscosity, working time, high strength and high temperature resistance. I used one cartridge to do about twenty studs with perforated bases. It is a tan opaque color that somewhat matches the GRP. I cannot comment on performance yet but it should be killer strong.

TECHNICAL SPECS:

• Item Epoxy Adhesive, Hysol E-120HP(TM)
• Type High Temp., Ultra Strength, Non-Sag
• Color Amber
• Size 50mL
• Container Type Cartridge
• Mixing Ratio 2:1

• Temp. Range (F) Up to 300 Degrees
• Full Cure 24 hr.
• Work Life 120 min.
• Shear Strength (PSI) 4300
• Substrates Metals, Thermoplastics, Thermoset Plastics, Glass, Ceramic, Masonry, Paper/Hardboard

Note: I saw Hindsight's comment below and while I can't claim to be an expert on RFP I was an expert on thermoset plastics; mainly castable and injectable urethanes and epoxies. I also know a fair amount about adhesives and solvent bonding, as I had a prototyping business for almost twenty years and plastics fab and machining, silicone rubber molds and castings were our bread and butter.

Is this able to be sanded?

[Scargo]

Is this able to be sanded?

Yes. No problem. Don't get cured epoxies extremely hot. Serious friction might soften them and high heat will destroy the physical properties. That damage is irreversible. It is not a thermoplastic, but a thermoset.
On the other hand, you can warm liquid epoxy to accelerate the thickening/setting and speed the cure. That can be tricky. A heat gun will make unset epoxy flow and it will also cause it to quickly set afterwards. Something to play with if it is too thick or if you are trying to squeeze the last bit of use out of material that is starting to set up on you (pot life is used up). That's one thing that is nice about a long pot life epoxy. You have quite a while to work with this thick epoxy and yet you can trick it to do a few different things.