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Thread: Full Fender Installation Questions

  1. #1
    Senior Member hdnik's Avatar
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    Full Fender Installation Questions

    Well it's been a while but I'm back at it.

    I have searched hi and low. No where in the manual are their instructions on installing the full fenders and boards. There was no addendum shipped with the parts either so I m going by feel here.

    I have them pinned in place and they line up great. My concern was first with the boards and them having no real support, but I think I have come up with a solution for that (though suggestions would be helpful)

    Now my biggest concern has turned to the front fenders. Are they really just cantilevered off the side panels? What have you all done to support them? It would seem to me that they'd shake themselves to death!

    Pics and suggestions please!!!
    Last edited by hdnik; 12-05-2016 at 06:27 PM.
    Nick Sebastian - 33 Hot Rod #495
    Factory Five Forums - hdnik
    FFCars - lowntubd

    Build Site/Blog - www.nicks33hotrod.com

  2. #2
    Ol Skool
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    Nick, I haven't revisited this since I decided to go with the Plymouth front glass, but the application is similar. Obviously you have to fab some thin wall tubing for the running boards. Since I'm building mine as a 3 way transformer the tubing would slide into permanent connectors under the frame. On my car this becomes the lowest point in the chassis. The fenders would all mount to the FFR glass using fat rivnuts. Once everything is aligned I intended to do the following:
    Using a flexible tubing like pex, tygon, or pvc I would align with fixed point on frame and form a brace about 3/4 around inner side of fender, then resin in a couple cloth strips to hold the shape. I intend to put one in front and one in back of the tires. Then I would form mounting points for connecting to frame in front of and behind the tire. Us judicious matting and cloth to build a brace that anchors to a point on the chassis. This is just one way to stiffen up the assembly. If you like hammering metal you could make metal braces.

  3. #3
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    Look at post #24 on cardifkid build on FFCars. Thinking about some kind of brace to tie both sides together.
    It would be good if you would post your plans.

  4. #4
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    Chassis dimensions

    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Nick, I haven't revisited this since I decided to go with the Plymouth front glass, but the application is similar. Obviously you have to fab some thin wall tubing for the running boards. Since I'm building mine as a 3 way transformer the tubing would slide into permanent connectors under the frame. On my car this becomes the lowest point in the chassis. The fenders would all mount to the FFR glass using fat rivnuts. Once everything is aligned I intended to do the following:
    Using a flexible tubing like pex, tygon, or pvc I would align with fixed point on frame and form a brace about 3/4 around inner side of fender, then resin in a couple cloth strips to hold the shape. I intend to put one in front and one in back of the tires. Then I would form mounting points for connecting to frame in front of and behind the tire. Us judicious matting and cloth to build a brace that anchors to a point on the chassis. This is just one way to stiffen up the assembly. If you like hammering metal you could make metal braces.
    Has any 33 hot rod builder documented the chassis measurements of the details of the frame? If I had a lift I would do so! I need to design a support for the running boards out of 1/2 inch 6061 Aluminum and don't want to interfere with any possible removal and access to all components under the vehicle. Anyone built these supports on their 33 hot rod?
    Thanks from Rick

  5. #5
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    Rick
    There have been at least three of us that designed our own versions of running board supports. Mine are shown in the gallery here and on the other board under Buck70 albums.
    I would be surprised if 1/2" AL in any shape would properly support the running boards. Keep in mind that the boards need to carry a mans weight 12" away from the chassis. When you add the constraint of only being able to hide 7/8" in section/height of material it gets pretty difficult. I went to a metal supply house and pulled every shape and material they
    had that was thin enough in 1 dimension to hide properly under the boards. They had a weld table with a section of pipe welded on it to hold a wire weld gun. I took every type of material I sorted and inserted it in that sleeve with 12" of projection and bounced on it. The AL shapes/rods all failed quickly, most of the steel did too. The length of 1/2" schedule 80 steel pipe I tried was the only one that would take the load. It also happened to be 7/8" in section which is just small enough to hide.

    The primary space conflict under the car for your supports is the mufflers, my suggestion for resolving that would also help control heat in the cockpit. The new CTSV Cadillac has a muffler that should fit transverse at the very back of the car AND gives the option of the OEM electric dumps used on the Caddy. Look at my pics and they may give you a few out of the box ideas. I did cut off the ends where they ran inboard past those brackets when I wrapped up that project.
    Dale
    426Hemi33

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdnik View Post
    Well it's been a while but I'm back at it.

    I have searched hi and low. No where in the manual are their instructions on installing the full fenders and boards. There was no addendum shipped with the parts either so I m going by feel here.

    I have them pinned in place and they line up great. My concern was first with the boards and them having no real support, but I think I have come up with a solution for that (though suggestions would be helpful)

    Now my biggest concern has turned to the front fenders. Are they really just cantilevered off the side panels? What have you all done to support them? It would seem to me that they'd shake themselves to death!

    Pics and suggestions please!!!
    For my build, I came up with a bracket that clamps to the frame so that they can easily be removed if needed. I used two brackets clamped to the lower frame tubing. Based on where I estimated my foot would be placed when getting in or out of the car, each bracket is approximately 8 inches from the point at which the running board attaches to the fender. Connecting them together is a length of channel to support the fiberglass running board along the length of the assembly. Everything tucks up nice under the running board and cant be seen when standing looking at the running board.

    To ensure I had enough structural integrity in the bracket design, I had an analysis completed on the mounting bracket. Based on the assembly and mounting details in the preceding drawing, (according to the analysis report), each bracket is capable of withstanding 1000 pounds of force before distorting. I admit this is overkill, and yes there are more than just a couple of ways to solve this. This just happens to be the method I used, which was effective is capturing enough surface area of the running board to prevent failure. I have stood on these with no issues or deflection.

    I just removed them to do some work on the car, but will reinstall and post some detailed photos of them installed if interested. Hopefully the photos attached uploaded correctly.

    Dave

    Structural.jpgAssy.jpgBase Bkt.jpgUpper Bkt.jpg

  7. #7
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    Getting ready to do fenders would like to know how it has went with others, from putting on to how they have worked out driving car? And have people put any bracing on front fenders. Thanks for any info and will post how it goes with mine.
    Tom p

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