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Thread: Can you use a G96 transaxle in the GTM?

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    Can you use a G96 transaxle in the GTM?

    Can you use the G96 transaxle in the GTM. I saw one post that said you cannot. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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    LCD Gauges's Avatar
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    I have one in mine, G96.00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Procision-Auto View Post
    I have one in mine, G96.00
    Thanks. Anything special needed vs a G50? Do you offer clutch/flywheel combo for the LS1?

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    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    I'm not a Porsche Transaxle expert, but there are a couple different G96's. We've installed several G96-50's in GTM's here with the only real differences in fitment being that you have to create a new mount for the rear of the transaxle, which is not difficult at all. It also seems that you need to grind just a hair of clearance on on of the rear suspension mounting tabs to clear the starter.

    The other model that I'm aware of is a G96-01 which is a completely different transaxle and I have no experience with that one.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
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    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
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    Thanks for all the input. It looks like the G96 he has will not work in the GTM. I can work around that and trade it for a setup that will work for me. I really appreciate all the help. The forum sure is a great place.

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    Double post
    Last edited by LCD Gauges; 12-13-2016 at 07:20 PM.
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    I'm from the Toronto area, but if you need anything the exchange rate may be in your favor at over 25%!

    For what it's worth, making a transaxle mount is easy as pie when compared to some of the body work.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
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    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

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    Quote Originally Posted by Procision-Auto View Post
    I'm from the Toronto area, but if you need anything the exchange rate may be in your favor at over 25%!

    For what it's worth, making a transaxle mount is easy as pie when compared to some of the body work.
    Thanks, I will keep you in mind for sure.

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    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Procision-Auto View Post
    I have one in mine, G96.00
    Is that similar to the G96-50.....or is that the one where the starter comes in from the engine side?
    Shane Vacek
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    Shane,

    The starter is mounted on the engine.
    I highly recommend modifying the adapter plate to enable use of a stock starter.

    It also makes shimming and monitoring the gear super easy.

    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
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    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

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    I'll also be putting a g96.00 in mine. My adapter kit, flywheel, and starter are being delivered today from Eric @ kitcarchassis.

    From the research I've done:
    -g96.50,61,(or any of the turbo or GT transmissions) are completely different than g96.00 or g96.01, The g96.50 still uses the old g50 bell housing bolt pattern
    -g96.00/01 are Nearly Identical to Boxster s 6spd (except its inverted), I chose 911 inverted to gain ground clearance. Boxster s transmissions are considerably cheaper but no factory option for LSD
    -Audi style bellhousing bolt pattern
    -Cable shift(I intend to use boxster s shifter and cables from a partout, which may or may not work but the cables and shifter are cheap enough to try).
    -The cost of trans + adapter kit is still cheaper than any g50 by a long shot.
    -Renegade racing has multiple 911s/Boxsters with LSs and they seem to be holding up ok, and our GTMs weigh less. You wont see me launching my car at the track though.
    -No boss for starter on trans, mounted using adapter plate to motor side.
    -Rear mount on gtm frame will have to be modified.
    -There isn't too much info out there on the inverting process though(converting vents to drains and drains to vents), I assume one of the porsche trans builders would know but not sure how willing they are to give up any info.
    -g96.00 and g96.01 have two different part numbers for clutches, but dimensions appear to be the same, a clutch company may have more info on this
    Last edited by Blast3r0; 12-15-2016 at 09:17 PM.

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    Inversion of the gearbox is quite simple actually if you use the right fittings. Nothing too hard, and I would be happy to answer any questions if you would like to do the work yourself.

    The best part of the gearbox, honestly is the price. I can put you a brand new getrag factory reman unit, meaning all new interior parts for $4600.00 By far the least expensive option out there. OS Giken makes a fantastic LSD for them, which I recommend as well.

    I can even help with a taller 6th gear for these now. So if you are considering a budget build get in touch with me. These are the way to go.

    Erik Johnson
    The Race Line
    (720) 899-6005 phone

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    LCD Gauges's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Race Line View Post

    I can even help with a taller 6th gear for these now. So if you are considering a budget build get in touch with me. These are the way to go.
    One thing I regret not doing, but will be upgrading in the very near future.

    The stock gearing is pretty much useless with LS/LQ series engines and two wheel drive. First gear is a wash (spin city) and
    "overdrive" is hardly worthy of the term.

    Definitely swap 6th and/or ring & pinion.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
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    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

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    Senior Member The Stig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Procision-Auto View Post
    One thing I regret not doing, but will be upgrading in the very near future.

    The stock gearing is pretty much useless with LS/LQ series engines and two wheel drive. First gear is a wash (spin city) and
    "overdrive" is hardly worthy of the term.

    Definitely swap 6th and/or ring & pinion.
    Agreed 100%...!

    Mike
    The Stig

    Some say, that I only know two facts about ducks, (both being wrong); and that if I could be bothered, I could solve the "da Vinci Code" in 47 seconds...
    All I know is that I'm called "The Stig".
    GTM #0081

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Race Line View Post
    Inversion of the gearbox is quite simple actually if you use the right fittings. Nothing too hard, and I would be happy to answer any questions if you would like to do the work yourself.

    The best part of the gearbox, honestly is the price. I can put you a brand new getrag factory reman unit, meaning all new interior parts for $4600.00 By far the least expensive option out there. OS Giken makes a fantastic LSD for them, which I recommend as well.

    I can even help with a taller 6th gear for these now. So if you are considering a budget build get in touch with me. These are the way to go.

    Erik Johnson
    The Race Line
    (720) 899-6005 phone
    Erik,
    I would love some information on the fittings for inversion. Could you PM me or prefer I call?
    6th gear was one of the things I really wasn't all that happy about with this trans, but the cost and availability made up for it for me.
    Once I get the car together I will definitely be interested in changing the 6th gear out as others have mentioned. I assume that changing 6th is much less expensive than changing the final drive?
    Also are there any oil cooler options available for the 96.00?

    Thank you for all you help!

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    It would probably be easier to discuss what you need over the phone.

    Just give me a call. I like the personal touch of talking to you guys.

    Erik Johnson
    The Race Line
    (720) -899-6005 phone

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    The gear that is available would be a 0.63 ratio which makes for a very nice overdrive.

    The ring and pinion that is available is a 3.10 but would require a complete tear-down and reassembly, so this option gets pretty expensive at the end of the day.

    Erik Johnson
    The Race Line
    (720) 899-6005 phone

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    Here is mine finally mounted. Kitcarchassis.com adapter plate. Notched rear subframe and custom mount plates. I did grind the bosses on the transmission down to make mounting easier.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx6...w?usp=drivesdk
    Last edited by Blast3r0; 12-21-2016 at 09:04 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blast3r0 View Post
    Here is mine finally mounted. Kitcarchassis.com adapter plate. Notched rear subframe and custom mount plates. I did grind the bosses on the transmission down to make mounting easier.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx6...w?usp=drivesdk
    Thanks for the great photo. It will be a big help.

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    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Erik,

    How would you rate the strength of this transaxle in comparison to the G50's or the G96-50's?


    Sooo.....anyone have a total estimated cost for this trans package with the trans, adapter, starter, flywheel, clutch, CV's and anything else that might be required?

    Blast3r0.....thanks for the pic of the install. The rear mount looks pretty straight-forward. Any other major or minor fitment issues? Looks like the shift cables will have to find a new mounting place at possibly a different angle?.....probably not much different than the G96-50's in that area.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Erik,

    How would you rate the strength of this transaxle in comparison to the G50's or the G96-50's?


    Sooo.....anyone have a total estimated cost for this trans package with the trans, adapter, starter, flywheel, clutch, CV's and anything else that might be required?

    Blast3r0.....thanks for the pic of the install. The rear mount looks pretty straight-forward. Any other major or minor fitment issues? Looks like the shift cables will have to find a new mounting place at possibly a different angle?.....probably not much different than the G96-50's in that area.
    Shane,
    My costs so far(I'm a bit of a deal seeker)
    Trans - Low mile 996 c2 with factory LSD $2000 (this was a pretty damn good score, I would expect to pay 2500+ for this again)
    My adapter plate kit came with a starter and stage 3 spec clutch (700hp), at $1800. It's not quite as refined as the kennedy kit but KEP wants 1800 for the adapter plate and flywheel alone. (So expect another 1000 for clutch and starter if you go kep)
    CVs are the same good ol Porsche 930s, I got a pair of Lobro (german) at the local buggy shop for $80 each
    Axles will be the same that come with the gtm kit
    I will have to purchase custom shift cables. I would like to try to use the Boxster s shifter that I sourced locally for $50

    Here is the link to my gallery with a few more high res pics of the mount. https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...W8?usp=sharing

    I didn't want to completely cut out the rear cross bars in the subframe(the ones I notched), my overall engine and transmission do have a little bit of an angle toward the rear, I don't forsee this causing any issues. I ground down the bosses on the rear of the transmission, I'm not sure if other people are willing to do that but it allowed me to gain quite a bit of clearance. Shift cables will be a bit of a puzzle. You can see in the pictures the bracket on the subframe is directly in front of the one shift cable mount. Factory cables aren't long enough so Ill have to make a new mount anyway. I will probably notch out that mount on the subframe of the gtm like procision did to clear the cable.

    -Nick

  23. #22
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info! So....looking thru the photos, how close does the starter pocket come to hanging below the engine oil pan? And I assume that the actual new location of the starter does not match up to the old starter pocket?
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

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    Hey there Shane,

    Depending on what you want to do regarding LSD, and possibly adding the 6th gear or 3.10 ring and pinion this kit is priced out quite nicely at around 10-14K or slightly more. It comes complete with everything though so that makes it nice to install.

    In terms of strength, the G96.01 gearbox is quite a bit stronger than the G50, although not quite as strong as the G96.50 or GT/Turbo gearboxes. Hence the reason they are so much less expensive. If anyone is in need of going this direction, I would be happy to discuss in detail the pros and cons of this option. For the cost I think it is the best value currently out there, and I would not think twice about putting it in my build. They have shown themselves to be quite good in most respects.

    Happy holidays all,

    Erik Johnson
    The Race Line
    (720) 899-6005 phone

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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Thanks for the info! So....looking thru the photos, how close does the starter pocket come to hanging below the engine oil pan? And I assume that the actual new location of the starter does not match up to the old starter pocket?
    Shane,
    The g96 does not have starter pocket like the g50s, in this particular adapter, it uses a factory style mini high torque starter bolted to the engine block in factory location. Picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx6...ew?usp=sharing

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    Member eseethal's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info on the starter! Which engine do you use? I hope the starter mount will fit with my LS-7.
    By the way, happy Christmas to everyone! You alway know where your priorities are when you are planning your gearbox change on Christmas Eve :-)

    Eugen
    Last edited by eseethal; 12-24-2016 at 12:14 PM.
    GTM #006 (early beta)
    On the road in Austria/Europe
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    Bilstein shocks, C6 ZO6 brakes with DBA rotors
    Lightweight build (2.336 lbs ready to drive)

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    Quote Originally Posted by eseethal View Post
    Thanks for the info on the starter! Which engine do you use? I hope the starter mount will fit with my LS-7.
    By the way, happy Christmas to everyone! You alway know where your priorities are when you are planning your gearbox change on Christmas Eve :-)

    Eugen
    Merry Christmas!
    The engine is an lm7 (5.3l iron block 1999-04 silverado), the only block differences I've found between it and the aluminum car engines is the hole for the alternator relocation is not drilled and tapped on the block but the boss is there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    I'm not a Porsche Transaxle expert, but there are a couple different G96's. We've installed several G96-50's in GTM's here with the only real differences in fitment being that you have to create a new mount for the rear of the transaxle, which is not difficult at all. It also seems that you need to grind just a hair of clearance on on of the rear suspension mounting tabs to clear the starter.

    The other model that I'm aware of is a G96-01 which is a completely different transaxle and I have no experience with that one.
    Which clutch slave are you using for a G96.50 and is the FFR GTM master cylinder for the G96.50 the same or do you change the master bore size?
    Restored GTM #82 w help of friends. Now cruising, tracking, upgrading.

  29. #28
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    I think all of the G96/50's that we've installed here have come from CMS....so we just install whatever slave they provide with the trans. I'm not sure, but it seems that the slave is the same as the G50's? We do not change the MC.....seems like the whole set up is almost identical to the G50....same pedal effort and clutch throw, so a clutch pedal stop is needed to prevent overtravel that could damage the PP or break the fork mounts inside the bellhousing.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

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    they had to move the slave cylinder by drilling a new hole for it. as far as master cylinder bore size it depends on how stiff your pressure plate is. i decrease the bore size in the master cylinder to use less pedal pressure because I have a really stiff pressure plate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rolfer View Post
    they had to move the slave cylinder by drilling a new hole for it. as far as master cylinder bore size it depends on how stiff your pressure plate is. i decrease the bore size in the master cylinder to use less pedal pressure because I have a really stiff pressure plate.
    Ok thank you. That's the GT2 slave conversion.
    Restored GTM #82 w help of friends. Now cruising, tracking, upgrading.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    I think all of the G96/50's that we've installed here have come from CMS....so we just install whatever slave they provide with the trans. I'm not sure, but it seems that the slave is the same as the G50's? We do not change the MC.....seems like the whole set up is almost identical to the G50....same pedal effort and clutch throw, so a clutch pedal stop is needed to prevent overtravel that could damage the PP or break the fork mounts inside the bellhousing.
    Ok so should work then keeping the 3/4" MC. Probably the seal went on my MC when opening up the circuit to make the change bc it's been bled with every method available to man, by a professional raceshop, and the pedal won't build pressure. Replacing the MC.
    Restored GTM #82 w help of friends. Now cruising, tracking, upgrading.

  33. #32
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    There's only one way I've been able to successfully bleed any of the Porsche slaves/clutch circuits. Remove the slave from the transaxle, hold the slave so the banjo bolt is the highest point, hook up a hose to the bleeder screw and reverse bleed the whole thing by pumping fluid into the slave thru the bleeder screw and have a helper watch the MC so it doesn't overflow and to watch for bubbles. After the bubble stop showing up in the MC reservoir, keep pumping fluid into the slave for a while...just to be sure.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

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    That sounds like a very nice method.

    In the end it worked out with standard racecar procedure as well, just takes patience and diligence. All good, the 3/4 MC is definitely big enough.
    It just takes 30 pumps or more to get the air down to the slave and some real pressure under the pedal, then gently need to push it out with the pedal with bleeder open, lock bleeder, and repeat.
    Restored GTM #82 w help of friends. Now cruising, tracking, upgrading.

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