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Thread: Opinions on By-The-Book Builds

  1. #1
    Papa's Avatar
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    Question Opinions on By-The-Book Builds

    Hello all:

    I'm in the planning phase right now and hope to order a complete MK4 kit in the next couple of months. My intention is to build a nice street cruiser with all new parts. I've been reading through several of the amazing build threads and wish I had half the skills you guys have. That said, I will likely be building my car as close to the book as I can. I bought an assembly manual and have read through it a couple of times and feel confident that I can build this car by-the-book. Am I being short sighted with this approach or are there just some absolute must-do modifications/upgrades I should not overlook? I'm already on the fence with the steering setup (standard kit parts or a power steering upgrade). Any and all comments are welcome.

    Thanks in advance,
    Dave

  2. #2
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Purely my opinion but I look at the manual as a decent starting point. Building one by the book will surely produce a car you will enjoy and be proud of. One of the funnest parts of the build to me is doing the little mods that make it unique to me. I don't want a car that is the same as everyone else has. Honestly I am already thinking that knowing what I know now how much more off book I would be willing to go if I build another one.
    I started this build with basically no automotive experience and was intimidated by thoughts of doing anything more advanced than the manual showed. As the build progressed and I became more confident I became more willing to try a few things that initially I would have been intimidated to try.
    I don't look at any mod is a must do. If you are satisfied with the kit as built in the manual then absolutely pursue that path. Build it however you want to and make it your own.
    This forum is a great resource and a great way to ask for help when you need it. I will say at times it can be easy to get carried away with things because you see others on the forum doing it and talking like it is a must have. Some of the mods are great for others but just have no appeal to me. Don't do anything just because everyone else is if it does not seem right for you.

    As far as power steering I have driven both although in limited quantity. I much prefer the power steering but again that is a personal choice.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  3. #3
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    If your intent is a by the book build I would strongly suggest build school.

    I don't think there are any absolute must have mods with the complete kit.

    If you go down the mod rabbit hole expect to spend a lot more money and time on the project.

  4. #4
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    I'm going pretty close to by the book. My only options planned are factory five supplied options plus a hidden roll bar attachment.

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    Wait, Someone built one completely by the book? Not sure I believe it, lol.
    Last edited by d_gatorfan; 12-18-2016 at 06:50 PM.

  6. #6
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    Your build is one that I spent several hours reading through. Great inspiration for perspective builders with basic skills. I'm just not sure I have your aptitude or patients! I've done a lot of DIY home projects and expect this build will be much the same in terms of learning by doing. My home projects are far more complex now than when I started.

    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Purely my opinion but I look at the manual as a decent starting point. Building one by the book will surely produce a car you will enjoy and be proud of. One of the funnest parts of the build to me is doing the little mods that make it unique to me. I don't want a car that is the same as everyone else has. Honestly I am already thinking that knowing what I know now how much more off book I would be willing to go if I build another one.
    I started this build with basically no automotive experience and was intimidated by thoughts of doing anything more advanced than the manual showed. As the build progressed and I became more confident I became more willing to try a few things that initially I would have been intimidated to try.
    I don't look at any mod is a must do. If you are satisfied with the kit as built in the manual then absolutely pursue that path. Build it however you want to and make it your own.
    This forum is a great resource and a great way to ask for help when you need it. I will say at times it can be easy to get carried away with things because you see others on the forum doing it and talking like it is a must have. Some of the mods are great for others but just have no appeal to me. Don't do anything just because everyone else is if it does not seem right for you.

    As far as power steering I have driven both although in limited quantity. I much prefer the power steering but again that is a personal choice.

  7. #7
    Papa's Avatar
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    I've definitely considered the build school. If nothing else, I'll see a basic build first hand.

    Quote Originally Posted by CDXXVII View Post
    If your intent is a by the book build I would strongly suggest build school.

    I don't think there are any absolute must have mods with the complete kit.

    If you go down the mod rabbit hole expect to spend a lot more money and time on the project.

  8. #8
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    IMO spend the time and money to insulate the cockpit from engine/exhaust heat. That is a must IMO that is not addressed in the manual.

  9. #9
    Papa's Avatar
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    I was thinking along the same lines. Is there a good source of available FF options other than their on-line parts catalog?

    Quote Originally Posted by Usudno View Post
    I'm going pretty close to by the book. My only options planned are factory five supplied options plus a hidden roll bar attachment.

  10. #10
    Papa's Avatar
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    This is definitely in my plan. Is the stick-on insulation adequate or should I plan on a more extensive treatment like a ceramic spray/brush on coating as well?

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    IMO spend the time and money to insulate the cockpit from engine/exhaust heat. That is a must IMO that is not addressed in the manual.

  11. #11
    Papa's Avatar
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    After searching through many posts, I was beginning to doubt it myself.

    Quote Originally Posted by d_gatorfan View Post
    Wait, Someone built one completely by the book? Not sure I believe it, lol.

  12. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    You've touched on a subject I've commented about several times. There is so much bandwidth in these forums about modifications (and I'm one of the many that adds to it) that the impression could be the stock kit and stock build is somehow no good. That's not the case at all IMO. A complete by the book build will produce a solid car that you will enjoy building and driving. There are mods that definitely improve creature comforts, like insulation, vents, power steering, turn signal stalk, etc. There are other mods that are all about appearance, like finishing the aluminum panels, door cards, trim plates, etc. Plus tons of others. The decisions are going to be based on budget, how you plan to use the car (a track build could be very different than a street cruiser, for example), time for the build, and your interest level in making changes. All questions you need to answer. Personally I enjoy the challenge of mods and making it my own. That's one of the big attractions for me. But not every mod necessarily makes the final product any better.

    Having said that, I would make a pretty strong case for the following: (1) Four wheel disk brakes. Avoid donor drum brakes. (2) Aftermarket rear suspension, whichever one you choose. Don't build the donor 4-link, for example. (3) I'm a huge believer in the FF 2-piece front spindles. Out of the box, they are vastly superior to donor spindles. Not an issue if you buy a complete kit. They're standard. (4) I'm also a huge believe in power steering. I've had both, and there's no comparison. Both for the reduced effort and also for the improved front end alignment (increased caster) they allow.

    Good luck with whatever you decide. And welcome.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-18-2016 at 07:37 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    I have to concur with "build school" The tricks, tips and hands on will save you time (and time is money) and give you great confidence . They will tell you a lot of things that aren't in the book that cost next to nothing and increase drivabilty and better final product. You will see how things are done that may be vague or hard to understand in the manual.....and they are great guys. and no, I don't get a dime for pushing them.... When I build , three things I always push are 1. drop battery box in trunk. B.fan shroud from Breeze or FFMetal. 4. Separate reservoirs. I like the ones from Scotts Hotrods....da Bat

  14. #14
    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    I am not as creative or knowledgeable as most on this forum. My thinking was the same as yours. I went with the complete kit and followed the manual step-by-step even signing each page as the task was completed. I did not make any structural modifications but did add a few of the items, some of which are noted above. I insulated the entire cockpit with heat resistant and sound deadening material. I added turn signals, back-up lights, door cards, a couple of additional gauges (oil temp and vacuum). a larger capacity coolant overflow, courtesy and engine compartment lighting and sound system. I also purchased my kit when options were 1/2 price allowing me to add a passenger roll bar, wind wings, sun visors, floor mats, front and rear bumpers. I did not add power steering, power brakes or any of the "creature comforts". I ended up with a car that I had great fun building and even more fun driving. It is a cruiser and not a racer. But even with limited additional items I get a lot of compliments and the car is as fast and loud as I need to have lots of fun. You will come to know that there are a few guys on this forum that are the gurus of the build process including j.miller, edwardb and Mark Dougherty. I would give their thoughts high consideration.
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

  15. #15
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Your build is one that I spent several hours reading through. Great inspiration for perspective builders with basic skills. I'm just not sure I have your aptitude or patients! I've done a lot of DIY home projects and expect this build will be much the same in terms of learning by doing. My home projects are far more complex now than when I started.

    This will be the same for you. You will be surprised how much you learn and you will be able to do a lot more successfully than you think you will be able to going in. This project was intimidating to me but at the end of the day it's not any harder than all your home improvement projects, just different.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  16. #16
    Papa's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice. Your 20th anniversary build is another that I've spent many hours reading and drooling over. I really enjoyed your posts on the new IRS. If it were a bit more affordable, I would love to go that route, too. The 3-link is a no-cost option now with the MK4 kit, and FF sells a complete (less brakes) rear end for a reasonable price. I hadn't even considered drums on the rear and have looked for suitable brake kits and the FF option is priced competitively, so I'll likely go that route. I was okay with the stock (manual) steering, but after reading some of the posts on the improved geometry, I'm leaning toward power steering.

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    You've touched on a subject I've commented about several times. There is so much bandwidth in these forums about modifications (and I'm one of the many that adds to it) that the impression could be the stock kit and stock build is somehow no good. That's not the case at all IMO. A complete by the book build will produce a solid car that you will enjoy building and driving. There are mods that definitely improve creature comforts, like insulation, vents, power steering, turn signal stalk, etc. There are other mods that are all about appearance, like finishing the aluminum panels, door cards, trim plates, etc. Plus tons of others. The decisions are going to be based on budget, how you plan to use the car (a track build could be very different than a street cruiser, for example), time for the build, and your interest level in making changes. All questions you need to answer. Personally I enjoy the challenge of mods and making it my own. That's one of the big attractions for me. But not every mod necessarily makes the final product any better.

    Having said that, I would make a pretty strong case for the following: (1) Four wheel disk brakes. Avoid donor drum brakes. (2) Aftermarket rear suspension, whichever one you choose. Don't build the donor 4-link, for example. (3) I'm a huge believer in the FF 2-piece front spindles. Out of the box, they are vastly superior to donor spindles. Not an issue if you buy a complete kit. They're standard. (4) I'm also a huge believe in power steering. I've had both, and there's no comparison. Both for the reduced effort and also for the improved front end alignment (increased caster) they allow.

    Good luck with whatever you decide. And welcome.

  17. #17
    Papa's Avatar
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    This is where I get to start showing my inexperience. J. Miller, can you explain the advantages to the separate reservoir setups? I definitely like the billet pieces you recommend.

    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    I have to concur with "build school" The tricks, tips and hands on will save you time (and time is money) and give you great confidence . They will tell you a lot of things that aren't in the book that cost next to nothing and increase drivabilty and better final product. You will see how things are done that may be vague or hard to understand in the manual.....and they are great guys. and no, I don't get a dime for pushing them.... When I build , three things I always push are 1. drop battery box in trunk. B.fan shroud from Breeze or FFMetal. 4. Separate reservoirs. I like the ones from Scotts Hotrods....da Bat

  18. #18
    Papa's Avatar
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    Thanks! That makes me feel a bit better. I was hoping that there wouldn't be any serious let-down in a by-the-book build. I will likely tweak things as I go, but wanted to know that the complete kit from FF will turn out a car that I can be happy with. If budget were unlimited, I'd probably do some things differently. How much of the "basic" kit can easily be upgraded at a later time if one chooses to do so? Things like adding Wilwood brakes later, for example?

    Quote Originally Posted by JIMOCO View Post
    I am not as creative or knowledgeable as most on this forum. My thinking was the same as yours. I went with the complete kit and followed the manual step-by-step even signing each page as the task was completed. I did not make any structural modifications but did add a few of the items, some of which are noted above. I insulated the entire cockpit with heat resistant and sound deadening material. I added turn signals, back-up lights, door cards, a couple of additional gauges (oil temp and vacuum). a larger capacity coolant overflow, courtesy and engine compartment lighting and sound system. I also purchased my kit when options were 1/2 price allowing me to add a passenger roll bar, wind wings, sun visors, floor mats, front and rear bumpers. I did not add power steering, power brakes or any of the "creature comforts". I ended up with a car that I had great fun building and even more fun driving. It is a cruiser and not a racer. But even with limited additional items I get a lot of compliments and the car is as fast and loud as I need to have lots of fun. You will come to know that there are a few guys on this forum that are the gurus of the build process including j.miller, edwardb and Mark Dougherty. I would give their thoughts high consideration.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Raceral's Avatar
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    I am one of the few that believe less is more. But as they say to each his own. The Cobra is a simple car. I am not a fan of bling. I think you will be very happy with a build by the book.
    You can see a by the book build in the build section.
    Thanks,
    Al Adkins
    Certified "Kool Aid" drinker

  20. #20
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    This is definitely in my plan. Is the stick-on insulation adequate or should I plan on a more extensive treatment like a ceramic spray/brush on coating as well?
    FWIW There are a lot of choices most of them good. Mine were THERMO-TEC anyplace that faced heat including the inside of the transmission tunnel & inside the side pipe heat shields. Its pricy but works very well.

    Inside the cockpit I used a two sided aluminum bubble core sandwich by Reflectix. Its an attic insulation from HomeDepot. It was glued in place with 3M-90 spray adhesive. The carpet was laid over this with 3M-90

    Two summers on in Carolina Heat am happy with the choice. Car is typically driven everyday over 45*F with no rain.

    For the base question the book works pretty well but something are not well thought out. One of the most famous is you should ignore the book on riveting the back wall of the cockpit before you rivet in the upper trunk floor section. Its floor first wall second if you really want to put in the trunks floor without pulling your hair out.

    Would recommend you do a forum search as you prepare to do each section to see if there re any FFR dead end traps in the sequence.

    My car is mostly 'by the book". Plan was to get it built & on the road. That said there are some extras that I built in as went along, this is pretty typical.


    Exterior is stock except for the pipe covers & Mike Everson's one piece radiator intake tract.


    Engine compartment is by the book except for the burp/filler tank for the radiator. The shiny material on the footbox is Thermo-Tec.


    Footbox in Thermo-Tec


    Rough fit on the Reflectex


    FFR carpet installed


    Cockpit is by the book expept fot the console, extra switches & door panels
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 12-18-2016 at 08:47 PM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  21. #21
    Papa's Avatar
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    Thanks for the response. The radiator intake shroud looks pretty clean, but it looks like the source you referenced isn't available any longer, or the website is down. I like the idea of these types of upgrades, and I've looked at wheel well liners as an example. The tips that I come across like the trunk panels are why I signed up on this forum. I've been creating a file of tips from the build threads I've been reading and will definitely be researching each step of the build before diving in.

    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    FWIW There are a lot of choices most of them good. Mine were THERMO-TEC anyplace that faced heat including the inside of the transmission tunnel & inside the side pipe heat shields. Its pricy but works very well.

    Inside the cockpit I used a two sided aluminum bubble core sandwich by Reflectix. Its an attic insulation from HomeDepot. It was glued in place with 3M-90 spray adhesive. The carpet was laid over this with 3M-90

    Two summers on in Carolina Heat am happy with the choice. Car is typically driven everyday over 45*F with no rain.

    For the base question the book works pretty well but something are not well thought out. One of the most famous is you should ignore the book on riveting the back wall of the cockpit before you rivet in the upper trunk floor section. Its floor first wall second if you really want to put in the trunks floor without pulling your hair out.

    Would recommend you do a forum search as you prepare to do each section to see if there re any FFR dead end traps in the sequence.

    My car is mostly 'by the book". Plan was to get it built & on the road. That said there are some extras that I built in as went along, this is pretty typical.

  22. #22
    Papa's Avatar
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    Perhaps one of the few, but definitely not alone!

    Quote Originally Posted by Raceral View Post
    I am one of the few that believe less is more. But as they say to each his own. The Cobra is a simple car. I am not a fan of bling. I think you will be very happy with a build by the book.
    You can see a by the book build in the build section.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    This is where I get to start showing my inexperience. J. Miller, can you explain the advantages to the separate reservoir setups? I definitely like the billet pieces you recommend.
    Separate reservoirs are safer because if one half of the brakes< front for instance, develops a leak you only lose fluid from that system/front reservoir. You will still have
    fluid in the back brakes because they will have their own reservoir. That should be enough to get you stopped and still be in one piece to start looking for the failure.
    Pretty cheap insurance IMO
    I did the build school and it was worth every penny and every minute I invested in it.
    HTH
    DB

  24. #24
    Papa's Avatar
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    Thank you -- makes perfect sense and I agree with the cheap insurance sentiment. Time to start looking at possible dates for the build school! Does FF still give a rebate if you attend the school and then buy a kit? I thought that was pretty cool, especially since FF doesn't operate the school.

    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    Separate reservoirs are safer because if one half of the brakes< front for instance, develops a leak you only lose fluid from that system/front reservoir. You will still have
    fluid in the back brakes because they will have their own reservoir. That should be enough to get you stopped and still be in one piece to start looking for the failure.
    Pretty cheap insurance IMO
    I did the build school and it was worth every penny and every minute I invested in it.
    HTH
    DB

  25. #25
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Thanks for the response. The radiator intake shroud looks pretty clean, but it looks like the source you referenced isn't available any longer, or the website is down. I like the idea of these types of upgrades, and I've looked at wheel well liners as an example. The tips that I come across like the trunk panels are why I signed up on this forum. I've been creating a file of tips from the build threads I've been reading and will definitely be researching each step of the build before diving in.
    Think Mike is on vacation, I talked with him the week before last on something else. I added the wheel well liners after the car was on the road when I was hearing the pitter patter of little stones my 100 treadwear gumballs were picking up & releasing in the wheel wells. Got worried about a good sized stone staring the paint from the underside.

    For whatever reason despite generally excellent road surfaces here I have seen more windshield dings in NC then I ever did back in Jersey.

    As for the car once its on the road things will occur to you that fits your circumstances like the ww liners did to me. People here on the interstate generally run pretty fast & driving a ticket magnet like a red COBRA with a 1965 custom COYOTE plate & somewhat loud exhausts needs no more attention drawn to it.

    Added a different radio to the console so I could get the Smokey & Local Traffic warning on WAZE. Adding stuff does not tend to ever end despite any good intentions to freeze the design.


    Just a few hours work. A car you build yourself & allow for future enhancements is a great money pit.

    Main thing is regardless of prior experience if something in the build instructions looks dumb to you there is a 99% chance that it is.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  26. #26
    Papa's Avatar
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    I know all about the "Money Pit" aspect of hobby cars. I have a 1970 El Camino that I've spent a ton of time and money on. Imagine the cockpit area of a Cobra, but enclosed. Now add a 420 watt amp, two 10" subs, 2 6" door speakers, and two 3" dash speakers.



    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    Think Mike is on vacation, I talked with him the week before last on something else. I added the wheel well liners after the car was on the road when I was hearing the pitter patter of little stones my 100 treadwear gumballs were picking up & releasing in the wheel wells. Got worried about a good sized stone staring the paint from the underside.

    For whatever reason despite generally excellent road surfaces here I have seen more windshield dings in NC then I ever did back in Jersey.

    As for the car once its on the road things will occur to you that fits your circumstances like the ww liners did to me. People here on the interstate generally run pretty fast & driving a ticket magnet like a red COBRA with a 1965 custom COYOTE plate & somewhat loud exhausts needs no more attention drawn to it.

    Added a different radio to the console so I could get the Smokey & Local Traffic warning on WAZE. Adding stuff does not tend to ever end despite any good intentions to freeze the design.


    Just a few hours work. A car you build yourself & allow for future enhancements is a great money pit.

    Main thing is regardless of prior experience if something in the build instructions looks dumb to you there is a 99% chance that it is.

  27. #27
    Senior Member 2FAST4U's Avatar
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    I've seen builds done by the book that are ho hum, while others that are over the top beautiful with enormous attention to detail. Take your time and focus on the details. It will be a show stopper.

    Bill D

  28. #28
    Papa's Avatar
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    Great advice! I'm definitely one that will redo something until I'm happy with the result and I definitely intend to take my time with this build.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2FAST4U View Post
    I've seen builds done by the book that are ho hum, while others that are over the top beautiful with enormous attention to detail. Take your time and focus on the details. It will be a show stopper.

    Bill D

  29. #29
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    I guess I am a perfect example of "project creep". I started out with a vision, pared it back because of my own lack of confidence, background, and skills, then allowed the project to grow as my confidence increased. The more I tried, the more I wanted to try. I have learned so much. The project has been an absolute joy! The one down side is that this project creep does hit you squarely in the wallet!

    I concur with all the others: you can go by the book and get a good car. However, I would not have wanted to miss all the learning, all the joy, and even the frustration of trying modifications. Don't sell yourself short. You might not have the skills or the background now, but this does not mean you can't learn them. There are very helpful people on these forums, and you can find instructions to do almost anything somewhere on the internet.

    Bottom line: Build to your own vision and to no other. Only in this way will you be completely pleased with your end result. Best of luck in your preparations and personal evaluation. This, too is a fun part of the build!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  30. #30
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    I, like Jazzman, have seen a lot of project creep but not to the extent he did with the flip top. As you can see from the responses there is clearly more than one "right" answer. Each modification has an impact on budget, schedule and sometimes quality (if not executed properly).

    Here are some that are worthy of your consideration ... that were essential to me at least:

    1. Modifying the PS foot box to get more room .. i have been a passenger in a car with the standard foot box and it is painful;
    2. Power Steering ... I initially wanted to go old school with everything "manual"; after changing to power steering and go karting this has become an essential modification;
    3. Engine Selection ... When doing my research I quickly came to the conclusion that I wanted to stay in the small block ford because it provided more room, the weight distribution was better and it was less complicated an option than say a Coyote;
    4. Modifications required to get through state inspections ... depending on your state's regulations there may be some modifications you have to make or items you cannot delete ... windshield wipers is an example; and,
    5. Are you installing a top of some sort? it could drive some mods and is one that doesn't come with either the basic or complete kit.

    Do not shy away from a mod just because your worried you may not have the skills needed to execute it. The nice thing about the FFR roadster is that it has been around a long time; there is a lot of online expertise and folks willing to help.

    Last but not least meet with locals which have built their cars ... sit in their cars, study their mods or lack of mods to see what can be done.

    Sincerely,

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  31. #31
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Hi Dave,

    In response to your original question....a by the book build will yield a nice street cruiser. There are some elaborate build threads out there that follow the book for the most part. You shouldn't be afraid of a few deviations from "the book". Most mods documented are kits or parts from venders that are designed to work with the FFR parts. They come with well documented instructions that take all the guess work out of installation. I mentioned to Dave Smith last summer in London that when I'm asked at car shows if I built the car myself' my response is "Dave Smith and the talented guys at FFR engineered and built the parts. I just put them together". Some great mods have been discussed already. The under trunk battery, the fan shroud, drivers footbox are all kits with great install instructions. Using all new parts makes the process that much easier. Installing a Coyote is a breeze if you follow the instructions from FFR. For my next build, I will not install a stereo. You just can't hear it...period. I will powder coat the exposed aluminum panels. I will install another Coyote, but it will have a supercharger because there's getting to be numerous Coyotes out there that all look and basically perform the same. Power stealing is a personal choice. Not my choice, and no power brakes. Kept the engine bay clutter free. Hid wiring and did alway with unnecessary components.
    The instructors at the build school discuss some of the most popular and practical mods. Build school lets you realize how easy it is to built your own dream car. Thanks Dave Smith!!!
    Last edited by Dave Howard; 12-19-2016 at 07:11 AM.

  32. #32
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Nothing at all wrong with a mostly by the book complete kit---I've done 'em. That said I'll second insulation which almost goes without saying (I use inexpensive Reflectix) and am one of the most vocal power steering advocates you will find here (I'll teach you how to do it for a couple hundred bucks rather than 1,000+). Beyond that you can build a solid reliable and fun car by following the recipe!

    Good luck!

    Jeff

  33. #33
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    By the book will yield you a nice car. But it can be even nicer w/ a few upgrades. Not so much nicer as in things people will see but more as in nicer for you to drive. The FFR front spindles are a huge advantage. The 2015 IRS is another huge advantage and the nice things is that it is both the good ride AND great cornering option. I agree w/ Jeff that PS is almost mandatory. My first FFR had the de-powered donor rack which was so terrible that it got power in the first 6 weeks I owned the car. My second had the FFR manual rack so I thought I would see how it was. It was a bit better but was replaced in the first month. One thing I would spend a lot of time on (and not much money) would be water proofing. You can drive in a light rain w/ surprisingly little of the rain coming in up top, but the spray from the tires will fill up the foot boxes in 5 minutes if they aren't sealed. that is a real pain. One other thought for you-there is nothing that you can not do, just a few things where you will learn new stuff to accomplish. As you have probably noticed, there is a wealth of knowledge here and on the other forum, and it is available for the asking.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  34. #34
    Senior Member Misterfubar's Avatar
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    It's great reading through this thread and hearing everyone's thoughts on necessary mods. I haven't even got my complete kit(mail off the check this week) and I already have a shelf full of Breeze, Summit and ********** parts.

  35. #35
    Senior Member
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    I would definitely look into the electric power steering. No pump, no hyd lines, no cooler. It does have an additional box, but looks to be a great option.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  36. #36
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Power Steering

    There are only two instances that you may find power steering to be a must.

    If you intend to do a bunch of auto crossing

    If you want to steer while sitting still

    In my opinion these cars steer just fine without power steering. If the car is in motion the steering gets easier. If you are driving at cruising speed it becomes pleasant. It's a personal choice but to me these cars were meant to feel raw. You can always change it later on but I love it without.

  37. #37

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I'm doing a basic complete kit build except for some creature comfort options. (Radio / Heater / Foot Box Ventilation / Etc.)
    My current daily driver has power steering (1995 C-4 Corvette) and I don't care for it at speeds above 70 MPH so you get the picture.
    I may opt for power steering down the road, possibly electric, if I don't care for the manual rack at highway speeds.
    Also, I can see if you are playing on the Auto-Cross pad why you'd really want and/or need it.

    Good Luck & Have A Great Build!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-19-2016 at 10:36 AM.

  38. #38
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    There are three safety items that must be addressed with the kit: Like Jeff Miller said, you absolutely need independent reservoirs for the front and rear brakes. At build school, they pointed out that US manufacturers adopted independent reservoirs before they adopted seat belts. That should tell you something. Second, you need to address in some way the potential for the accelerator to get stuck behind its mounting bracket. Build school will show you how to modify the stock pedal, or you can spend $90 and get the super-sweet Russ Thompson pedal. Finally, you've already talked about disc brakes front and back.

    After addressing those safety items, it all comes down to what you feel like tackling. I had zero experience working on cars before jumping into the deep end, and so far, my reach has not exceeded my grasp.


    John

    Oh yeah, if you're going to do a driving school or track day with a passenger, you will almost certainly be required to have a roll bar for the passenger. For me, this is in the mandatory safety category as well.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  39. #39

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Oh yeah, if you're going to do a driving school or track day with a passenger, you will almost certainly be required to have a roll bar for the passenger. For me, this is in the mandatory safety category as well.
    Great Points Regarding Safety!

    I didn't want to even have a roll bar until I road in and drove two Factory Five Roadsters before ordering my kit.
    I also have a separate reservoir for each master cylinder and the car now has a drivers and passenger roll bar.

    https://youtu.be/UJwM5godh88
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-19-2016 at 11:37 AM.

  40. #40
    Papa's Avatar
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    Jazzman -- Your build goes way beyond "project creep" or "scope creep" in my line of work. I love the concept and can't wait to see your finished product.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    I guess I am a perfect example of "project creep". I started out with a vision, pared it back because of my own lack of confidence, background, and skills, then allowed the project to grow as my confidence increased. The more I tried, the more I wanted to try. I have learned so much. The project has been an absolute joy! The one down side is that this project creep does hit you squarely in the wallet!

    I concur with all the others: you can go by the book and get a good car. However, I would not have wanted to miss all the learning, all the joy, and even the frustration of trying modifications. Don't sell yourself short. You might not have the skills or the background now, but this does not mean you can't learn them. There are very helpful people on these forums, and you can find instructions to do almost anything somewhere on the internet.

    Bottom line: Build to your own vision and to no other. Only in this way will you be completely pleased with your end result. Best of luck in your preparations and personal evaluation. This, too is a fun part of the build!

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