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Thread: Standard 4-Link vs. 3-Link Upgrade

  1. #1
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Standard 4-Link vs. 3-Link Upgrade

    Would like to hear the thoughts on the going with the standard 4 link vs. 3 link upgrade? I have already heard some say that the 3 link gives you better handling. Others have told me that it really depends on what you want out of your vehicle in the end. For me it is going to be a weekend cruiser that I can take on some road trips. Just a modest 302, automatic. As I plan my order sheet, is the 3 link something that I will wish I had gone ahead and splurged on?

    Thanks guys...as always look forward to your input.

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I had the 4-link setup on my first build, a Mk3. Note it was the full FF aftermarket setup with FF UCA's and LCA's and Koni coilovers. Not the donor 4-link which by all accounts is pretty marginal. I was completely happy with the 4-link setup and never had any complaints about it. I guess I wasn't expecting much from it because of the bad press it gets. But I was pleasantly surprised and drove that car for 2 seasons and a bunch of miles. Note I only used it as a street cruiser. Never saw any track or auto-x. If I had, I might have seen the unpredictable behavior the 4-link can give. But never saw anything bad from it. For straight line launches the 4-link is probably a little better and a bit stronger. For the rest, the 3-link is better. I suspect most will tell you to go with the 3-link, and they may be right. But the 4-link can be OK too if kept within its capabilities.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    For a street cruiser that doesn't get pushed hard the 4 link is acceptable if not optimal however if you anticipate ever getting rid of the car the 3 link will pay for itself in resale.

    Jeff

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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    People build these things in many different configurations for a variety of reasons. Rarely are they built specificically to meet the need of the end use. For example, there are countless IRS cars that have more trailer miles than road/track miles. But, the owner can say at a car show "yeah, she's got independent rear suspension". So, if you want to build a car for weekend cruising and the odd road trip but don't intend to push the car or brag about how elaborate it is.....the 4-link is just fine.

  5. #5
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Perhaps Jeff is correct on the resale but I recommend you don't waste your money on the FFR three-link regardless of use. The four-link will work just fine for a street car. And if you really need a three-link for competition you'd be better with a custom design than using the non-adjustable FFR unit with the angled lower control arms.

  6. #6
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Agree completely that the 4-link is no problem for any street car. Hell, Ford used it on very fast Mustangs for how many years? We even RACED our Mustangs in IMSA Firehawk with the 4-link (plus those useless quad shocks.) Do a quick search and see all the issues guys have had with the 3-link rotating on the axle and causing all manner of havoc. You have to buy another kit to keep that from happening! But my biggest problem with the 3-link is that it looks cockeyed under the car when you look at it from behind. I mean, after all, an awful lot of what we do when building these cars is for looks anyway. Why screw it up with a goofy looking rear suspension? My opinion? Go 4-link or go IRS.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  7. #7
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kraftee View Post
    Go 4-link or go IRS.
    Or 5-link from Gordon Levy. Probably the best choice for solid axle. Have it in #7750 and very happy with it.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  8. #8

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    EdwardB,

    I would have likely gone that route if I had done my homework prior to ordering my rear end from Moser that uses a Dana 44 style case.

    Also, the 4 Link Gang may be able to improve that set up if they add the Spohn Performance adjustable upper control arm that have the Del-Sphere ends. That could reduce some wiggle, improve the articulation and give the ability to adjust the pinion angle.

    That part number is F5-M34-605B and can be found on the link shown below:

    http://www.spohn.net/shop/Factory-Fi...ot-Joints.html

    Steve

  9. #9
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    This thread is in the 33 Hot Rod but the reference to the control arms in the spohn link says for the MK3 and MK4 roadster.
    Are they the same?

  10. #10

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by partsman View Post
    This thread is in the 33 Hot Rod but the reference to the control arms in the spohn link says for the MK3 and MK4 roadster.
    Are they the same?
    The 4 link rear suspensions for the MK-1, MK-2, MK-3, MK-4, FIA, Type 65 and 33 Hot Rod all use Mustang pieces so they will fit.

    Mustang control rear upper and lower control arms from 1979 thru 2004 are used so any manufacturer's parts for these years should be A-Okay.

    Stock lowers are 17 5/8" in length, but I'm not sure about the uppers since my car is set up with the 3 link.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-30-2016 at 07:58 PM.

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