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Thread: Should I paint the upper section of the steering shaft?

  1. #1
    Jacob's Avatar
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    Should I paint the upper section of the steering shaft?

    Do most builders paint the upper section (nearest the driver) of the steering shaft? Looks to me like this will eventually rust if not protected...the lower section appears to be stainless and should be ok?
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  2. #2
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    When in doubt hit it w/ some rattle can black. Not w/ this part specifically, but nearly every time I've not taken the time for some paint, I've ended up wishing I had. I like the Rustoleom Self Etching primer and their 'Hammered' paint for this because it dries quickly and is quite durable.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  3. #3
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Have you considered using one of the turn signal systems that a couple of the vendors here offer? If so, that will cover the upper shaft and provide a production car look.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  4. #4
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    I sprayed the end that shows through the dash with black and then sprayed the entire piece with clear.
    I will say prior to painting I had the upper shaft in and out a few times. Now that I sprayed it I can not get it to budge at all. Luckily I haven't needed to get it out again but I think putting the clear on the portion that slides into the lower shaft was a rookie mistake! Didn't really consider it at the time but I think I should have just cleared the portion that was visible.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  5. #5
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    If you like the look and don't want to paint use Sharkhide Unlike clear, Sharkhide won't chip, peel, or yellow. Wipe it on with microfiber cloth and it dries in seconds to give you years of protection. If you ever need to re-coat just clean the surface and wipe more on. No need to sand or scuff up the surface. Sharkhide provides a very thin coating and is used mostly on bare aluminum but works on all metals.

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    Took a different approach, used large heat shrink tubing on the part visible from inside.

  7. #7
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alig2 View Post
    Took a different approach, used large heat shrink tubing on the part visible from inside.
    I like that idea. Could you post a picture of that?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  8. #8
    Jacob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumball View Post
    Have you considered using one of the turn signal systems that a couple of the vendors here offer? If so, that will cover the upper shaft and provide a production car look.
    yes was actually considering the Russ Thompson setup...not too familiar with it but based on your note it would cover the upper exposed shaft..if it does then nothing to worry about! thanks
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  9. #9
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alig2 View Post
    Took a different approach, used large heat shrink tubing on the part visible from inside.
    I do the same thing. Quick and easy. IMO

  10. #10
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob View Post
    yes was actually considering the Russ Thompson setup...not too familiar with it but based on your note it would cover the upper exposed shaft..if it does then nothing to worry about! thanks
    Here's a pic of how the Russ Thompson switch looks - not the best, but the unfortunately the best I have at the moment. It has a tube that extends well down behind the dash, so you won't see the upper portion of the steering shaft.

    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  11. #11
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Better pic of the Russ Thompson switch assembly - the upper shaft will only protrude from this far enough to fit the steering wheel on the end. According to the instructions, you'll have to make sure there is a slight gap throughout the full rotation of the wheel both ways to avoid grounding out the switch between the housing and the back of the steering wheel, but that gap on mine is very small.

    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  12. #12
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    This pic shows just the tube of the Russ Thompson switch assembly mounted to the chassis - the "flange" with the actuating lever was off when this was taken. But, from this, you can see how the upper column is covered by the assembly.

    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  13. #13
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    And for those who haven't seen the full Russ Thompson assembly, here's a pic on the bench. I asked him to make mine with the actuator lever facing to the right (passenger) side of the car and to leave the switch off the end of the lever. I'm really happy with his craftsmanship and the function of the part.

    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I like that idea. Could you post a picture of that?
    Simple, looks like it was plastic dipped
    IMAG0072a.jpg

  15. #15
    Jacob's Avatar
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    thanks to all for all the great feedback...puts me back on track!
    MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
    Levy 306
    T5
    2015 Mustang IRS
    Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
    fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels

  16. #16
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    I used a piece of black wire loom cover. -- Chuck
    Last edited by Chuck Sloggett; 01-08-2017 at 08:51 PM.

  17. #17
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    Chrome it ;)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob View Post
    Do most builders paint the upper section (nearest the driver) of the steering shaft? Looks to me like this will eventually rust if not protected...the lower section appears to be stainless and should be ok?
    Took a chrome hollow towel rod cut it to length and slid it over the shaft. Looks great!

  18. #18
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Then there is always the old school stainless steel thermos cap, that some builders used, if they weren't bothering with a column signal switch. It finished off in that area quite nicely. I also recall someone using a small stainless steel dog or cat bowl, for the same purpose.
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

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