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Thread: 818 chassis electrical alternatives

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    818 chassis electrical alternatives

    My question is can we make a chassis harness and make the stand alone engine harness and still get what we need? I am an egineering test tech I build stand alone harness all the time I just cant justify spending another $500 at FFR for a chassis harness or $200-400 for factory if i have all the extra customizing and shortening I have to do anyways. Can anyone imput if i am wrong we have to run cluster head lights tail lights turn signals and radio and A/C if we choose right. Thanks

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    I think for the most part you can consider the engine systems one wiring project and then the chassis another one, and so indeed separate them. I never bought a donor car, just "donor" pieces here and there. No electrical harnesses at all.

    I did cart away a fair number of connectors that I needed from one 2002 LL Bean. Other connectors I've been careful when getting my ebay and local visits to the yards, to find or arrange to otherwise get components WITH the connectors. chopped off such that I got both parts of each connector. That takes some luck and willingness to wait though. For example, ECM connectors didn't come easily, but I eventually found a guy parting that LL Bean who let me take the ECM plugs (3 seconds with a DeWalt portable band saw next to the ECM and I had the whole harness - that was fun).

    I think the main thing about making up harnesses is indeed the connectors - how to get them if you don't get a whole donor harness for the $200-$400 like you note above. Without those connectors you'd have to either hardwire, or custom-up your own connectors. That's a lot of work and still expense to use decent stuff, such as Deutch, etc.

    In the end though, for me I'm just using the connectors themselves and otherwise building my harness up with "third party" wire. I think if you are capable of it, that is the way to go.

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    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squid1236 View Post
    My question is can we make a chassis harness and make the stand alone engine harness and still get what we need? I am an egineering test tech I build stand alone harness all the time I just cant justify spending another $500 at FFR for a chassis harness or $200-400 for factory if i have all the extra customizing and shortening I have to do anyways. Can anyone imput if i am wrong we have to run cluster head lights tail lights turn signals and radio and A/C if we choose right. Thanks
    Squid,
    This is some pictures of my engine harness made from the donor harness.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post146406

    I then used the donor under hood fuse box as the power distribution for:
    Starter
    altenator
    fuel pump
    horn
    radiator fans
    Wipers
    lighting
    ECU/cluster

    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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    The thing is with the OEM Subaru harness you have all the wiring done you just have to make it better. The cost of all the colors of wire and all the plugs to get it to work will cost you a lot more if you make it from scratch. Also what nice is with the OEM harness it's already working and has no flaws. The only thing you need to do is make it better and more efficient with the things you need out of it.

    Here is my guide if it helps at all I made my engine harness all standalone just needed to tie it into a few relays to work. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...wiring-harness

    In the end of the day though we all come from different background and all have our own ideas on what is "best".
    Last edited by redfogo; 01-09-2017 at 10:40 AM.

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    Senior Member SixStar's Avatar
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    Owner/builder - AEM Intakes 818R #85

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    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redfogo View Post
    The thing is with the OEM Subaru harness you have all the wiring done you just have to make it better. The cost of all the colors of wire and all the plugs to get it to work will cost you a lot more if you make it from scratch. Also what nice is with the OEM harness it's already working and has no flaws. The only thing you need to do is make it better and more efficient with the things you need out of it.

    Here is my guide if it helps at all I made my engine harness all standalone just needed to tie it into a few relays to work. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...wiring-harness

    In the end of the day though we all come from different background and all have our own ideas on what is "best".
    I agree, depending on your needs this is what I would consider to be the best. I had zero problems in 2 years with my wiring that was done for very cheap (think ~$100, all said). iWire makes some really pretty stuff but it's too rich for my blood for sure. It depends on your budget, time constraints, confidence in wiring abilities, and willingness to learn the Subaru wiring needs.
    Frank - Build thread

  7. #7
    Senior Member UnhipPopano's Avatar
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    IMHO there is no one way that is best for everyone. For those looking to make a track car and will not be using the OEM controllers, a custom harness will probably be best. For a street car that will need to meet emissions, modifying the original harness is a better choice. Everything else in-between is open to debate.

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    Senior Member alpine227's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squid1236 View Post
    My question is can we make a chassis harness and make the stand alone engine harness and still get what we need? I am an egineering test tech I build stand alone harness all the time I just cant justify spending another $500 at FFR for a chassis harness or $200-400 for factory if i have all the extra customizing and shortening I have to do anyways. Can anyone imput if i am wrong we have to run cluster head lights tail lights turn signals and radio and A/C if we choose right. Thanks
    I ran two separate relay boxes one for the engine bay and one under the dash and both harnesses are separate. I bought a bunch of Delphi connectors and cut up the factory harnesses to cabbage wire. Chassis harness has wipers, head lamps, turn signals, brake lights, acc, cluster, audio, fans, alcohol injection pump, horns. Engine relay box had IGN coils, injectors, fuel pump, avcs, boost and misc (power IAC, reverse lights, speed sensor. I am running an MS3X for management.

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