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Thread: Planning to start building in spring of 2018

  1. #1
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    Planning to start building in spring of 2018

    Greetings. I began looking into the possibility of a Factory Five kit in 2012, initially looking at the Type 65. Over the past 4-5 years, my focus comes and goes, I drift away to work on other things and something draws my interest back to a project car. Life happens when you least expect it. I'm now in a position where I think I can make it happen within a reasonable amount of time. Things are falling into place with my job that should make it easier to manage the cost of the build, but I'm in no hurry. I likely won't be actually ordering the kit until this time in 2018. I've requested a media kit for all of the cars that Factory Five makes so that I can leave it on my desk at work, but I'm pretty well set on a roadster build. I'm putting together a list of everything I need to build it, getting an idea of the sequence of things, weighing the cost of delivery or travelling to pick it up myself. 34 hours round trip means I'll most likely have it delivered. I contacted the shipping company to get an estimate and have been in contact with Factory Five to answer some of my questions.

    I'm looking to break the expected cost of the build into 5 or 6 stages, deciding what parts I want and determining into which stage of the build those parts need to be placed. My first question to Factory Five is whether or not I could order a complete kit with a 3-link and add the IRS kit later or if they had to be ordered at the same time. The answer that I got back is that the IRS chassis is distinctly different from the 3-link so whatever I order it as is what it's going to end up. The IRS setup can't be added later. I don't know if there are any other components that work out that way and that's where I'm looking for community guidance.

    Stage 1:
    • Mk4 Roadster Complete Kit
    • All-New Crate Engine/Transmission Other
    • Powder coated chassis
    • Headers 5.0 Coyote Stainless 4 Port Full Length Headers (How do these differ from the 16267 Stainless 5.0 Coyote 4 into 4 Headers?)
    • 4.6L/5.0L Coyote Mounts
    • 31 spline 2015 IRS 8.375" Driveshaft
    • Body with all cutouts traced
    • Original style roadster seats, black vinyl
    • Coyote 5.0 Power Steering System
    • Optional Tubular Front Lower Control Arms
    • 2015 Mustang-based Independent Rear Suspension Kit
    • Factory Five Racing Vintage GPS Gauge Set
    • Front Sway Bar
    • IRS Rear Sway Bar (Can the sway bars be moved to a later stage?)
    • Stewart Transportation


    A multitude of options are available at the time the kit is ordered but do any of the options change the fundamental configuration of the initial kit?

    Stage Two:
    • 2015 Mustang IRS Center Section, Spindles and Hubs (Factory Five tells me that the center section is loaded with an LSD and 3.55 gears like those supplied with the 2015 Mustang GT. Is the housing iron or aluminum?)
    • 12.88" Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled and Slotted
    • 12.88" 2015 IRS Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers, Drilled and Slotted


    Stage Three:
    • Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18" x 9" Front and 18" x 11" Rear
    • Tires from Summitracing (Undecided, recommended size 17" tires appear much less expensive than 18" tires)


    Stage Four:
    • Summitracing Factory Five Mk4 Coyote engine combo
    • Moroso oil pan and pickup
    • Roadster Coyote Installation Kit? (More information needed, pictures please)


    Stage Five:
    • Tremec TKO-600 manual transmission
    • Ford Performance Clutch
    • Ford Performance Billet Flywheel
    • Quicktime Bellhousing


    For miscellaneous pieces, I plan on sun visors and wings, driver and passenger chrome roll bars, polished stainless steel exhaust, polished front and rear bumpers, an oil cooler, front brake ducts, ducts in the front wheel wells, trunk mounted battery box, Russ Thompson trunk box, push button start with rotating rfid, a Trax intercom package, upgraded seats, headlight stone guards and a tonneau cover.

    To be continued...
    Last edited by charlesshoults; 01-19-2017 at 09:42 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Your plan is coming together. Just a few comments:

    - Not sure what you're trying to describe or ask regarding the headers. Might want to clarify that. Also, if you're trying to spread the cost, no point in having the headers before the engine. You can't do anything with them until then.

    - The 2015 center section comes in two flavors: Aluminum case used on automatic transmission Mustangs. Iron case used on manual shift Mustangs. Either aluminum or iron case come in 3.55 and limited slip. They use different driveshaft adapters, so that's something to watch. The iron is stronger. The weak point of the aluminum case is the mounting ears. Not sure that matters with these cars. The iron is 20 lbs or so heavier. Both use an aluminum rear cover. You would need to clarify which version Factory Five is providing.

    - You're right. 18 inch tires are more expensive than 17 inch. As 18 inch (and larger) become even more mainstream, perhaps that will change and the 17 inch will be harder than now to find the right size. Bit of a gamble either way.

    - Personally, I think you can do better than Summit for the Coyote and the tires.

    Good luck with your planning and upcoming purchase.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-14-2017 at 01:50 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
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    Yeah, the headers, I'm really not sure about. Factory Five has them listed as two different part numbers, one in the order form and the other in the parts catalog, different part numbers and different text descriptions. And a $100 difference in cost. I'm trying to determine the difference. If they are actually the same, I'm not heartbroken about moving them to a later stage, even if I have to pay a $100 penalty by not buying them as part of the kit.

    The Summitracing kit comes with a lot of parts, some of which, I'm not entirely sure if I actually need. I certainly won't be using the manifold cover or the speedometer recalibration device since the gauge operates using GPS. Those parts together cost about $280. I think I would be okay with buying the components individually.
    Last edited by charlesshoults; 01-14-2017 at 02:10 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    My initial thoughts were for the summit kits as well but after researching some more found it was better to get the items elsewhere and only what you need. EdwardB's suggestions are always very solid. You cant go wrong following his advice.

    At various times there have been lengthy backorders on some items. In my case I waited months for 17" wheels and when it came time to put the car on the ground still did not have them so I went with the 18s they had in stock. Had I insisted on waiting it would have delayed my build. I know at times Wilwood has had long delays as well. I had a couple times during the build progress in an area was stopped while I waited for backordered parts and I was forced to move to another section of the car while I waited. My point is on paper it looks great to plan this out in stages. In reality it is possible that the parts you need may not be available right when you want them to be. Just wanted to give you a word of caution on that. Might throw off your plan a bit. Might be worthwhile a little before you order to check with FFR on potential availability issues.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  5. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlesshoults View Post
    Yeah, the headers, I'm really not sure about. Factory Five has them listed as two different part numbers, one in the order form and the other in the parts catalog, different part numbers and different text descriptions. And a $100 difference in cost. I'm trying to determine the difference. If they are actually the same, I'm not heartbroken about moving them to a later stage, even if I have to pay a $100 penalty by not buying them as part of the kit.

    The Summitracing kit comes with a lot of parts, some of which, I'm not entirely sure if I actually need. I certainly won't be using the manifold cover or the speedometer recalibration device since the gauge operates using GPS. Those parts together cost about $280. I think I would be okay with buying the components individually.
    The Coyote SS straight tube headers are a relatively new offering from Factory Five. They weren't around when I was putting my build together. Like many, I'm using GP Headers SS straight tube headers for my Coyote build. Absolutely beautiful parts and fit perfectly. But not cheap. Factory Five will need to answer the question about the different part number and pricing on their headers.

    The Summit Factory Five Coyote package is a bit of a mixed bag IMO. They list the new (Gen 2) Coyote and controls pack, but are providing the old style covers. The speedometer recal device doesn't have anything to do with your speedometer. GPS or not. It's to solve a stalling problem they had with the Gen 1 Coyote. That's fixed on the new Coyote and the device isn't required. They provide an in-line fuel pump. Most including me would recommend an in-tank fuel pump. They also provide a Powermaster starter. No reason IMO not to use the Ford Racing part. Cheaper and more compact. Bottom line buying all the parts separately is not a big deal. You'll have way more complicated shopping lists than that for your build. BTW, don't take anything negative from me about Summit based on those comments. Love them as a source and have dropped lots of coin their direction. Just saying I think you can do better than this particular offering.

    One other thing to mention. Factory Five typically has sales. You'll want to keep an eye on that when you're ready to buy. That might influence what you buy in the various stages you have listed.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-14-2017 at 04:40 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  6. #6
    2bking's Avatar
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    I'm thinking your stage 1, 2, and 3 are going to get blurred together if the purchase has some cost saving due to a FFR sale. The sale items prices usually require the purchase of a kit at the same time so individual orders may be at full price. The GP headers and the FFR ones are almost identical except in the area of the transition of 4:1:4. FFR uses a single part where the GP's weld individual tubes. Most likely the only difference between the two are looks.

    You didn't state you intentions for the vehicle once completed. Unless you are going to track the car a lot, the front brake ducts, oil cooler, and oil temperature gauge are useless. I don't have the foot box vents but do have AC and heat. The air circulation from the AC/heater is directed toward the laps of the occupants and I've never thought I needed more air circulation in the foot boxes. I think good insulation may negate the need for the vents. Both the front and rear battery boxes have their pros and cons but after the build is completed and the body is installed, The front battery box is much more accessible.

    As a participant in the "help me spend your money" group, I suggest a few more items that I consider worth while. Fan shroud, power steering oil cooler, Russ Thomson Turn signal, door pockets, ABS, back-up lights, rear cubby hole, and trunk gas springs. An external hydraulic clutch make the clutch system simple. An upgrade to LED headlights (about $150 through Ebay and Amazon) helps night lighting. The addition of AC and heat along with the FFR premium top extends the driving seasons and adds creature comforts.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  7. #7
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    My media kit came in today and I'm basically watching everything on the DVD. In one segment, Powerblock is comparing an original 427 against a built MK4. I found a picture online to illustrate what I'm looking at. What is the divider inside the front grill of the Cobra? If the radiator is filling the entire front end, why the divider?


  8. #8
    Papa's Avatar
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    OP: I'm in about the same place you are right now and have been trying to decide what I "need" to order with the initial kit purchase vs. what can be pushed out to a later date. I'll be following this thread!
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  9. #9
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlesshoults View Post
    My media kit came in today and I'm basically watching everything on the DVD. In one segment, Powerblock is comparing an original 427 against a built MK4. I found a picture online to illustrate what I'm looking at. What is the divider inside the front grill of the Cobra? If the radiator is filling the entire front end, why the divider?

    Called a splitter. I've heard two explanations for it in the originals where you see it occasionally. One was to give better airflow into the radiator and improve cooling. The other was to help push down the nose at high speed. I'm pretty confident it does neither. At least on our builds. But I personally like the look of it vs. the bumper hoop. So have included one in my last two builds. Strictly cosmetic. They were available from Dark Water Customs, but not so easy to get now. This is Mk4 #7750. The new build will be similar. Just not together yet.

    Last edited by edwardb; 01-18-2017 at 10:11 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  10. #10
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    It's still going to be some time before I order my kit, but I'm taking time to ask questions and make decisions about how I want to proceed. I expect the full build to take 3-4 years to complete and if Bass Pro decides to lay everyone off after they complete the acquisition of Cabelas,then the build will be put on hold indefinitely, part of the reason I'm waiting until next spring to get started.

    I don't plan to race the car but there are certain pieces I plan to put in place so that I could track the car if I wanted to. I'll be installing an oil cooler with with manual bypass valves and at the two brake vents at the front of the car, I'll be installing fiberglass ducts behind the wire mesh. For the red lights at the back and the amber lights at the front, I'll at very least be installing LED bulbs. For the headlights, I may attempt an HID or projector conversion. I'll likely pull the glass headlights and trim rings from my parents old '73 E-100 to test with. They may actually be the same size lenses. I will probably end up installing roll bar hoops on both sides but for the passenger side, I think I'm going to install the grommet kit but have block-off plates made to fill the holes. I'll need to visit with the tag agency here in town to figure what I'll need to do to never have to install a front license plate. My Suzuki Carry is registered with a custom "mini truck" plate so even though the state typically requires both front and back plates, a front plate was never issued for my truck.

    As I said, it will be some time before I pull the trigger and order the Factory Five kit, but until then, I'm working with models. I have a 1/32 die cast model on my desk at home, a 1/24 die cast on my desk at work, am working on a 1/24 scale plastic model and have two more models being delivered next week, one 1/24 scale and one 1/16 scale.


  11. #11
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    I'm looking around for alternative wheels. Yes, the vintage Halibrands are nice but I'm also looking for more modern wheels. However, 17x9 with 6" backspacing appears to be a somewhat uncommon size. 6.380" seems more common. I saw some nice 18" wheels on a build, but didn't see detailed specifications listed.

    What other wheel sizes fit / have been used by builders? 17" or 18" preferred.

    I'd like something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/enk-4917906535gr

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