Converting To Carb

[scottiec]

Hi Guys,

I was able to find a 5.0 out of a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer with 47k on it. Since it has the gt40p heads on it, I am just going to do a cam and valve springs. Anyways, are there any simple kits out there for converting EFI to carb? I have found a lot of information, but no bundle of parts. From what I have heard, the explorer/mountaineer engines have different timing covers, oil pans, etc. Can anyone chime in on my below list of parts?

1. Intake manifold
2. Carb
3. Mechanical fuel pump
4. Timing cover (not sure from what)
5. Distributor (85 mustang because of steel gear, correct?)
6. Oil pan (will fox body work?)

Also, I will be replacing the alternator and water pump. Do I just buy replacements for the Mountaineer? Or do I need to use Fox Body accessories?

Sorry for all the questions!

Thanks,
Scott

[Railroad]

Good plan.
Carb may need to be matched to the cam.
I would put in a new timing chain and gears, degree the cam.
Timing cover will be OK if you are OK with an electric fuel pump.
Explorers and Mountaineers used a short shaft water pump. If you want to upgrade, I like Edelbrock.
Might have to watch belt and pulley alignment if you start swapping. Ford has a million and one pulley combos. It might be good to buy a set of pulleys, if you swap.
On the distributor, I like Mallory with vacuum advance, electronic. Nothing wrong with MSD, just make sure it is not a fake knock off.
Good luck,

[scottiec]

Good plan.
Carb may need to be matched to the cam.
I would put in a new timing chain and gears, degree the cam.
Timing cover will be OK if you are OK with an electric fuel pump.
Explorers and Mountaineers used a short shaft water pump. If you want to upgrade, I like Edelbrock.
Might have to watch belt and pulley alignment if you start swapping. Ford has a million and one pulley combos. It might be good to buy a set of pulleys, if you swap.
On the distributor, I like Mallory with vacuum advance, electronic. Nothing wrong with MSD, just make sure it is not a fake knock off.
Good luck,

Thanks for the info! I am probably going to be doing a Ford B cam. I plan on mechanical pump since I am really going for the old school build. Do you know what timing cover I need?

[GoDadGo]

I'm A Big Fan Of Performance Distributor's (aka: Davis Unified Ignition) HEI Units.

They will custom curve each unit to your specifications, support all sorts of applications including Ford's, and use a very simple two wire hookup. I think they may also have a "Corrected Cap" for Ford power plants too. I've used them in the past and have one in my MK-4 project.

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

[Railroad]

With dipstick in the timing cover and mech fuel pump, RTCF-302a
Without " " " " " " " " ". RTCF-302b
Both of these are standard rotation water pump models.
There is a lot of discussion information on a site "Jalopy Journel"

[Ray]

I'm A Big Fan Of Performance Distributor's (aka: Davis Unified Ignition) HEI Units.

They will custom curve each unit to your specifications, support all sorts of applications including Ford's, and use a very simple two wire hookup. I think they may also have a "Corrected Cap" for Ford power plants too. I've used them in the past and have one in my MK-4 project.

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

Times-2..........I've had this unit installed since 2002 and it's been trouble free. Using their 9mm plug wires and rev-limiter as well.

Ray

[Railroad]

I am sure there are a lot of carb engines running B and E cams, BUT these are fuel injection cams. Ford did not have to take into consideration the vacuum signal needed to run with a carb. Go to the website Corral and look under the 302/351 header. There is a cam grinder there that can make the right cam for your application. He is sometimes grumpy, but is good. Second choice, a Comp cam for a carbed engine.
If you get away from the dog bone roller lifters, go with link style. Morrel (sp) is the best brand, IMO.
I put an B cam engine in my son's 90 mustang auto. It is tough to live with at low rpm. Needs a lot more stall than 2500.

[scottiec]

Wow thank you guys so much for the advice! I was starting to feel overwhelmed with the amount of 302 info out there. It is difficult to piece it all together. I believe my dipstick is on the side of the motor, so I will need the second part you listed.

As for the dizzy, I will absolutely check that out!

[CraigS]

Glad you started this thread as I was going to put together an email on how you might reduce costs. How about an inline electric fuel pump? You need a specific low pressure version. this is just one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4070/overview/
I know they can be noisy so they need to be mounted w/ rubber mounts but....this would allow you to use the entire front engine dress almost as it is. You remove the PS pump and AC comp and leave the alt where it is on the passenger side. To be able to stay w/ the serp belt and all the existing pulleys you get an idler pulley to mount above and to the driver side of the water pump. Search AC eliminator. Here is one
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...FQWBswodetgDCg

[scottiec]

Glad you started this thread as I was going to put together an email on how you might reduce costs. How about an inline electric fuel pump? You need a specific low pressure version. this is just one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4070/overview/
I know they can be noisy so they need to be mounted w/ rubber mounts but....this would allow you to use the entire front engine dress almost as it is. You remove the PS pump and AC comp and leave the alt where it is on the passenger side. To be able to stay w/ the serp belt and all the existing pulleys you get an idler pulley to mount above and to the driver side of the water pump. Search AC eliminator. Here is one
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...FQWBswodetgDCg

Craig, this looks like a great option for cutting costs. I will look into the electric fuel pumps.

[Ray]

I'm using a Holly Blue pump with a pressure regulator. The pump doesn't need a return line as it's not high pressure.

Ray