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Thread: Attaching dip stick tube

  1. #1
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Attaching dip stick tube

    I have used grade 8 bolt set with the locks on my headers , how is the best way to attach the oil dip stick tube with out the stud on the header bolt. Any ideas would be appreciated!

    Walt

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    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
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    The dipstick tube can withstand a bit of bending. With that in mind, the tab should be able to reach one of the threaded holes on the front of the head. Mine is a 351C based build, but Windsor engines have similar holes in the heads.IMG_20150608_063923830a.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by frankb View Post
    The dipstick tube can withstand a bit of bending. With that in mind, the tab should be able to reach one of the threaded holes on the front of the head. Mine is a 351C based build, but Windsor engines have similar holes in the heads.IMG_20150608_063923830a.jpg
    Frankb, quick question. Do I see both a thermostat switch and a temperature probe on you engine? And, which is which?

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    On my 302 build, I made a stud out of a grade 8 boot, secured the header, and then secured the dipstick with another nut.
    FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!

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    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
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    Frankb, quick question. Do I see both a thermostat switch and a temperature probe on you engine? And, which is which?
    Thick:

    Yes, both are visible in the photo. The upper one is the temp sending unit and the lower one with the spade terminal is the (fan) temperature switch. On the Cleveland engine, both are in the same water path, although one is in the block (under the thermostat) and one is in the water pump body.

    Hope this helps.

    Frank B

  6. #6
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Mine is a 302 and the tube is mounted on driver side 2/3 of the way to the rear the bracket on it went on a header stud that was about the 4th or 6th one back.
    Steno do you have a picture of how you did it?
    Last edited by Walt; 01-18-2017 at 06:01 PM. Reason: Added question

  7. #7
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    All I did was cut the head of a grade 8 bolt that had long threads on it, screw it into the head with some red thread-lock, and run a nut with a washer down to secure the header. Then stuck the dipstick in the block, popped the bracket on the remaining 1/2" of bolt, and put another nut with a lock washer. DONE!
    FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking , maybe you had come up with something different. Thanks for the info.

  9. #9
    Unconventional Builder Joee's Avatar
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    I just used my header bolt. After header installed back the one bolt out enough to slide the dip stick mount behind it and tighten it up.
    Roadster Mk3 5294, 302 Comp XE276HR cam, AFR 185 heads, 650 Quick fuel carb, Air Gap intake, T-5 3.55 gear Levy Upper & Lower Front and Rear control arms Purch Jan 2008 Tagged Mar 2012 Best ET 12.14 @113** SOLD 4/8/18 **
    YouTube Videos: Current performance - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7c...86xO3U4l4RtVMQ Older build - http://www.youtube.com/user/joeembery#p/u My Pics:
    http://s207.photobucket.com/user/Joe...?sort=6&page=1

  10. #10
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Yes I did the same thing, I filed the finger that fits next to the header tube to make fit and added a washer to keep from squeezing the fingers out and it worked Great!
    Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
    Walt

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