Very cool. I plan on doing something similar that also wraps around the corner and down to the body, like most sports racers have (e.i. Radical, Norma). I recommend not drilling holes in the main hoop. I'm thinking of some kind of internal clamp, the shell rivets to the clamp which has a bolt behind the bar. The shell then has a hole to access and remove the bolt. I haven't drawn any of this up yet so just thinking out loud.
Where did you get the strut cover?
Very cool. I plan on doing something similar that also wraps around the corner and down to the body, like most sports racers have (e.i. Radical, Norma). I recommend not drilling holes in the main hoop. I'm thinking of some kind of internal clamp, the shell rivets to the clamp which has a bolt behind the bar. The shell then has a hole to access and remove the bolt. I haven't drawn any of this up yet so just thinking out loud.
Where did you get the strut cover?
I found the strut streamline fairings here. How were you planning the wrap the fairing around the corners?
Thanks for the source on fairings. I plan on using foam and making a mold, lay up fiberglass, for the vertical and corner sections. Could use the strut fairing for the horizontal and rivet it to the corner/vertical uprights pieces. Maybe only need the clamps in the vertical pieces.
I'm going to use the fairings too on my 818R. I agree with DanielsDM about not drilling the main hoop for rivets. Most sanctioning bodies don't allow you to drill the cage, and especially the main hoop. However, you can weld small tabs to the cage and hoops that you can then rivet on to.
DanielsDM if you make up a set of corner sections I'll buy four of them (I'm building a front hoop too). I'll bet some other R racers will want them too.
I hate doing fiberglass work!
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
I'm in as well. We were/are trying to make a two piece that just clamps on, countersunk bolt into treaded insert on either side of the hoop to "clamp" the fairing in place. We foresee there being three sections required, left side down curve, right side down curve, then straight section for top and sides. cut to fit, mold with two holes to "pin" the joints and keep them in line. We have a plastics extruder local that we may want to ask about creating the die if others are interested as well.
Instead of putting in the FFR front door vents, I decided to tilt the doors inward instead. This will give me the same if not more area for venting the high pressure air that builds up in the front wheel wells and I think it will look nicer. I cut 2 inches off the front of the doors and tapered them back so that no material comes off the rear section of the doors, like a wedge. you can see it in the cut line pictured below.
Here is a picture with the door set in place on the side panel. Note how much closer the door sits to the frame. When the front fenders are mounted there is a large opening between the door and the fender that air can escape from. I plan on putting in some mesh so debris kicked off the tires does not mar up the doors.
Since I have coolant and oil lines mounted in the side pods, I cut out some holes to allow air to pass through the side pods and help cool things down. This will also increase the air flow / pressure in the engine bay and should help combat the heat issue 818's have. These will also have protective mesh added.
As others have done, I increased the depth of the rear side scopes 1.5 inches to take in more air. After I fiberglass up the slits down the body I can cut out the main vent area.
I have a very innovative idea for capturing the air from the side vents and routing it where I need it in the engine bay stay tuned for details!
Last edited by Hobby Racer; 10-30-2017 at 05:09 PM.
We did the same to our doors, cut just about the same as you did, subtle but effective. We gained an inch I think. We also shimmed the front fender up at the base of the rear, where it attaches to the top of the sidepod. This makes it bow out when you hold down the top rear corner of the fender, and, it makes the lip of the wheel arch flare out a little, giving you more wheel clearance. We only did a half inch, made a big difference.
We did the same to our doors, cut just about the same as you did, subtle but effective. We gained an inch I think. We also shimmed the front fender up at the base of the rear, where it attaches to the top of the sidepod. This makes it bow out when you hold down the top rear corner of the fender, and, it makes the lip of the wheel arch flare out a little, giving you more wheel clearance. We only did a half inch, made a big difference.
CAn you take a shot of the door-fender gap from the rear of the car? I am curious how it looks. On my 818S, I have tried to keep that gap as large as I can from a styling standpoint but have always thought it shoule be a larger more intentional gap. Kinda of like on a ferrari F40:
Fun fact: Did you all know that a ferrari F40 weighs about 3000lbs? Our 818's weigh ~2000lbs with a power plant capable of making the same horsepower as the F40 (about 470hp). That is a humbling thought. (please feel free to check my facts....I think I got them about right). Nice link to a good article about an F40 with some nice photos.
CAn you take a shot of the door-fender gap from the rear of the car? I am curious how it looks. On my 818S, I have tried to keep that gap as large as I can from a styling standpoint but have always thought it shoule be a larger more intentional gap. Kinda of like on a ferrari F40:
This is my gap. I ran a straight edge from the fender to the door.
Bob
I love this build!
I wish we had a dry sump solution for this engine. I've been all over the design and can't figure one out without spending a boatload of money. I'm sure you're aware of what happened to the Subaru EZ 30R mid-engined track day car on NASIOC, the Carma Wolf. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2494976
If you can make this engine last for a full race season I'll be starting on the same build next year!
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
I love this build!
I wish we had a dry sump solution for this engine. I've been all over the design and can't figure one out without spending a boatload of money. ...
I thought I saw a Dailey Engineering DS setup for it. Seems it is hard to justify since the EJ25's do so well (if built properly).
I thought I saw a Dailey Engineering DS setup for it. Seems it is hard to justify since the EJ25's do so well (if built properly).
The one I'm aware of is the EG33. As far as I know, no one makes one for the EZ30 series.
BTW, as of this moment the Dailey website is hacked and will prompt you to download the Chrome Extension Font if you use Chrome. Don't do it!
Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 11-28-2017 at 01:31 PM.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Factory ECU shouldn't be 360 degrees off unless your coil packs are swapped or you installed the timing chain with the timing marks way off. The 36-2-2-2 crank wheel determines crank position and the cam sensor identifies the engine phase for the ecu. Worth verifying your sensor wires didn't get flipped making the ecu read the opposite edge of the wave signal. I had an issue with mine figured it out when I swapped from falling edge to rising edge for my crank signal.
Factory ECU shouldn't be 360 degrees off unless your coil packs are swapped or you installed the timing chain with the timing marks way off. The 36-2-2-2 crank wheel determines crank position and the cam sensor identifies the engine phase for the ecu. Worth verifying your sensor wires didn't get flipped making the ecu read the opposite edge of the wave signal. I had an issue with mine figured it out when I swapped from falling edge to rising edge for my crank signal.
Not using the factory ECU (it does not work with a manual trans). I'm having to build the tune and setup from scratch for the standalone ECU. The motor has never been opened up so the chains, etc. should be fine. I could have flipped sensor wires when splicing into the factory harness, I'll be checking all those things today and try again.
Okay are you running Megasquirt? If so might start just using the crank sensor in wasted spark coil on plug no cam sensor yet to get it running. Also the injector and spark wires need to be run in the fireing order not cylinder number. The EZ has several cam sensors for the avcs feedback and maybe your tied into the wrong one for engine phase.
My first gen uses the one off the back of the right side head. I had to fidle with the input capture and wiring to get it to full sync. When cranking in full senquential cop it will show full rpm sync. Also I believe you need to run the 36-2-2-2 (non vvt) as the vvt code is coded for ejs that use the avcs feedback sensor 4-1 instead of the 4-2 cam sensor so it expects a different trigger wheel pattern.
My first gen uses the one off the back of the right side head. I had to fidle with the input capture and wiring to get it to full sync. When cranking in full senquential cop it will show full rpm sync. Also I believe you need to run the 36-2-2-2 (non vvt) as the vvt code is coded for ejs that use the avcs feedback sensor 4-1 instead of the 4-2 cam sensor so it expects a different trigger wheel pattern.
I had to add 12V pullups to all the cam sensors to get them to work. I am trying to use the 36-2-2-2 VVT code. Didn't think to try the non vvt code. You are running a EZ30D (first gen) that does not have VVT right?
I've heard the 36-2-2-2 mode is intended to work with a 2 tooth wheel and the Subaru 36-2-2-2 VVT mode with a three tooth cam wheel. My engine uses a 3 tooth cam wheel.
Last edited by Hobby Racer; 11-29-2017 at 06:10 PM.
The vvt code was developed soley to use only one cam sensor for phasing and avcs feedback on avcs ej257 and 207 which use a 4-1 tooth wheel instead of the 4-2(2 tooth) cam wheel on the non avcs ej205. The ez30 both first and second gen use the 36-2-2-2 wheels and 3 tooth cam wheels for phasing the second gen also has the avcs feed back angle sensors. The cam sensor should be a hall effect sensor and the crank on mine at least is a VR sensor and I needed a 2.2k shunt across the signle wites and a 10k inline with + signal wire as I would loose sync at mid rpm and misfire like crazy. The cam sensor should already have a 12v square wave form output from the sensor and should be wired like hall effect sensor.
The three tooth cam wheel the vvt reference is actually a 4-1wheel with marks at 90 degrees and one missing tooth for phasing and angle feedback. where the ez is a 3 tooth wheel with makes at 120 degrees no missing teeth for phasing.
The three tooth cam wheel the vvt reference is actually a 4-1wheel with marks at 90 degrees and one missing tooth for phasing and angle feedback. where the ez is a 3 tooth wheel with makes at 120 degrees no missing teeth for phasing.
If the ez cam wheel does not have a missing tooth for phasing how does the MS unit figure out the timing to run full sequential and COP?
With the cam rotating half the speed of the crank the Ms expects a cam trigger event on or near one of the missing teeth if I recall during the ignition phase for clynder 1, I tried to do some digging for a trigger log of the events as I couldn't remember off the top of my head but failed. My engine is out of the car for a rebuild due to milage before it gets boost so I confirmed no missing teeth and three evenly spaced marks on the cam.
With the cam rotating half the speed of the crank the Ms expects a cam trigger event on or near one of the missing teeth if I recall during the ignition phase for clynder 1
Makes sense. I looked at the cam patterns for both the ez30D and the ez36R and the patterns look identical for the intake cam nearest cylinder 1. The intake cam for the other bank is out of phase by 180 degrees (relative to the cam rotation, not the crank). I may have wired my cam sensor to the wrong intake cam. I will check that today.
Got my fingers crossed too.
A lot of this conversation is making me nervous, this part of the build is the most difficult for me. Fortunately I have a couple of friends, from both me and my son's that will help me thru it.
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Originally Posted by DanielsDM
stay tuned for details!
