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Thread: John's EZ36R H6 818R Build

  1. #121
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Oooooh.... it's so pretty, can't wait to start it, can't wait to start it. I feel like a little kid

    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    Very clever! Did you put a magnet anywhere else to sweep up debris?

  3. #123
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    Very clever! Did you put a magnet anywhere else to sweep up debris?
    I did not put the magnet back in. There was no place to secure it and I did not want it floating around. As its a track car, I drain the fluid regularly and should notice any bits floating about.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  4. #124
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    How did you plug/ vent the heads, I only see one coolant discharge?

    I see the expansion tank on the driver's side. I had a lot of pain venting both heads.

  5. #125
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    did you block off any of the water lines? looks like you looped the heater hose? also what about the smog stuff what did you do there? thanks

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigfree View Post
    How did you plug/ vent the heads, I only see one coolant discharge?

    I see the expansion tank on the driver's side. I had a lot of pain venting both heads.
    In the pic above the head discharge on the passenger side is hidden below one of the frame braces. You can see it clearly in the pic below.

    IMG_20170802_170244.jpg

    There a a lot of good pics of the coolant tubes in this post.
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 09-15-2017 at 07:04 AM.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  7. #127
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samiam1017 View Post
    did you block off any of the water lines?
    I blocked off the lines going to and from the throttle body. They are only needed to heat the intake charge during cold weather. I also blocked the line going to the factory oil / water sandwich plate cooler (I removed that cooler completely). I then connected the return port from the oil / water cooler to the return port on the bottom of the expansion tank (suction side).

    Quote Originally Posted by Samiam1017 View Post
    looks like you looped the heater hose?
    Initially I removed and plugged the heater hose lines. I then had to put them back and loop them when I discovered that they are needed for the thermostat to work correctly. There needs to be a hot coolant return path behind the thermostat so it senses the hot coolant and opens!

    Quote Originally Posted by Samiam1017 View Post
    also what about the smog stuff what did you do there? thanks
    I removed the all the smog stuff, EGR valve, drain valve, vapor canister, etc... I plugged the EGR hole in the intake manifold and the heads with block off plates.
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 09-15-2017 at 07:08 AM.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    There needs to be a hot coolant return path behind the thermostat so it senses the hot coolant and opens!
    I wish you told me that two months ago, it took me so long to figure that out. I was chasing venting for months.

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigfree View Post
    I wish you told me that two months ago, it took me so long to figure that out. I was chasing venting for months.
    I only stumbled across it in a nasioc thread I was reading recently and the light went off in my head. Glad I did not toss all that piping!
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  10. #130
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    I removed the all the smog stuff, EGR valve, drain valve, vapor canister, etc... I plugged the EGR hole in the intake manifold and the heads with block off plates.[/QUOTE]

    Are these the parts you eliminated?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #131
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    Yes, those can be eliminated so long as you block off the openings that are left over.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  12. #132
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    I hope you get on track soon, I want to see - hear this video!
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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  13. #133
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    John what three size masters did you go with for your wilwood pedal assembly?

  14. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samiam1017 View Post
    John what three size masters did you go with for your wilwood pedal assembly?
    I went with the following:

    3/4" Front
    13/16" Rear
    3/4" Clutch

    But I am using a very different brake setup than most.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  15. #135
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    Custom Headers Part 1



    I finally started welding the header tubes together. I needed to make 6 long "J" sections for my header design. I just got a TIG welder and my skills are less than professional. But the tubes are sealed and I'm pushing forward.

    IMG_20170926_164523-0.jpg IMG_20170926_164523-1.jpg IMG_20170926_164523-2.jpg

    To make the tubes look nicer, I ground the welds flush with the surrounding tubes.

    IMG_20170930_140812.jpg

    The headers are equal length. As you can see in the picture, I offset the tubes by the collector 1.5" compared to the flange plate for better clearance.

    IMG_20170930_180229.jpg

    Next I have to tack weld the collector and flange plate on and do some test fitting.
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 10-01-2017 at 04:41 PM.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  16. #136
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Awesome!

  17. #137
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    Wow this is going to be a work of art!

  18. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Wow this is going to be a work of art!
    Thank you. I'm hoping for good functionality, a nice appearance is a bonus.

    I plan to have them ceramic coated with Swain Tech White Lightning when they are done.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  19. #139
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    Custom Headers Part 2



    Driver and passenger sides welded up.


    Here are some pics installed on the drivers side to check fitment.

    resize-6.jpg resize-5.jpg resize-1.jpg

    Here are some pics installed on the passenger side to check fitment.

    resize-7.jpg resize-4.jpg resize-3.jpg resize-2.jpg
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  20. #140
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    They look great! The passenger side brake line looks really close to the header. How much space is there between the header and that line?

  21. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    They look great! The passenger side brake line looks really close to the header. How much space is there between the header and that line?
    Yes, I plan on moving the brake lines to the side of the frame rail instead of on top like it is now. Figured I would wait till the headers are done in case I need to make other changes.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  22. #142
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    Looks like really nice solution, looking forward to the finished product.

  23. #143
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    they look great!

  24. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    Oooooh.... it's so pretty, can't wait to start it, can't wait to start it. I feel like a little kid

    Every time I pull up this thread, I think that intake looks like a scorpion.

  25. #145
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    Headers Are Done!



    Finished fabrication, still need to grind and polish the welds.

    Here are some pics of the last test fitting.
    NEW-4.jpg NEW-1.jpg NEW-5.jpg NEW-3.jpg NEW-6.jpg NEW-2.jpg

    I have ordered some hump vents for the exhaust exits.
    NEW-0.jpg
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  26. #146
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    Nice work! That's going to sing.

    The H6 intake manifold looks like the face-sucker from Aliens.

  27. #147
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    Can't wait to hear it!!

  28. #148
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    Purely for racing? Many of the tracks I frequent for track days, have sound limits. Any thoughts about mufflers?

  29. #149
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Looking great! If you get a chance, could you get a picture of the headers a little further back, with the perspective of say from the firewall to the axles?
    Last edited by flynntuna; 10-18-2017 at 11:32 AM.

  30. #150
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    Very Nice work and a unique approach! Are the exhausts going to exit thru the humps? Now that's novel! (You may be breathing fumes though).
    I'd love to put an H6 in an R and race it, if only someone could come up with a dry sump solution for the 30 or 36.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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    818R ICSCC SPM
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  31. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Purely for racing? Many of the tracks I frequent for track days, have sound limits. Any thoughts about mufflers?
    Purely racing and no sound limits at the tracks I go to.

    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    Looking great! If you get a chance, could you get a picture of the headers a little further back, with the perspective of say from the firewall to the axles?
    Not sure what your looking for? Can you explain it differently, maybe I'm being dense.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    Very Nice work and a unique approach! Are the exhausts going to exit thru the humps? Now that's novel! (You may be breathing fumes though).
    They will exit through the Mechie hump vents, so you won't see the pipes. Talked about this in a previous posts and the consensus is that the R does not suffer from the back flow issue that the S does with its high windshield. I'll know for sure next spring!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    I'd love to put an H6 in an R and race it, if only someone could come up with a dry sump solution for the 30 or 36.
    I'm hoping I don't need a DS. The EZ36 holds 8.2 quarts of oil in stock trim. With my external cooler and Accusump I'm at 10 quarts! I have equipped pressure sensors before and after the Accusump so I can monitor the pressures and know if the oil pickup is sucking air BEFORE the engine loses oil pressure while the Accusump if supplementing the prerssure . I won't know for sure until I can get some data logs and check the oil pressure differentials. I do have a DS system planned out if I see any pressure loss before the Accusump.
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 10-18-2017 at 09:11 PM.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  32. #152
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Sorry John, I'm not the best in composing questions. But a picture is worth a thousand words right? The attached picture shows the the perspective I'm asking for. A photo from the firewall to the rear hubs.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  33. #153
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    I'll try to get one tomorrow.
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  34. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    They will exit through the Mechie hump vents, so you won't see the pipes. Talked about this in a previous posts and the consensus is that the R does not suffer from the back flow issue that the S does with its high windshield. I'll know for sure next spring!
    Are you concerned about the air pressure being greater outside the vents such that it may force the exhaust gases into the engine bay? Or are you going to make some sort of exhaust shroud? Also, wouldn't the exhaust pretty much cook those vents and the fiberglass they're attached to?

  35. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Are you concerned about the air pressure being greater outside the vents such that it may force the exhaust gases into the engine bay? Or are you going to make some sort of exhaust shroud? Also, wouldn't the exhaust pretty much cook those vents and the fiberglass they're attached to?
    I plan to seal off the exhaust to the bottom of the vents with an aluminum box. The air rushing over the vents should draw the exhaust out as well. Not sure about the heat cooking the aluminum, guess I'll find out
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  36. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    Sorry John, I'm not the best in composing questions. But a picture is worth a thousand words right? The attached picture shows the the perspective I'm asking for. A photo from the firewall to the rear hubs.
    @flynntuna - I sent the headers off to be ceramic coated, I'll get you the picture you asked for when they return.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  37. #157
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    No hurry John, quick question though. What size turnbuckle did you use for your altenator?

  38. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    No hurry John, quick question though. What size turnbuckle did you use for your altenator?
    I used an aluminum swedged 3/8-24 panhard/radius rod, 4 In.

    Here is a list of what I used.

    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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  39. #159
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Thanks John

  40. #160
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    While my headers are out being ceramic coated I thought I would start working on some of my aero ideas.

    One of the problems with the rear wing is that it generally sits behind the rear roll bar and the disturbed air reduces the wing's effectiveness. You can raise the wing above the bar, but that makes the wing sit quite high. I remember a post a while back that suggested creating an ideal airfoil (tear drop shape) around the roll bar to smooth the air flow. This is a strut cover for an ultralite's landing gear. It's the perfect size for our roll bar tubing!




    If you slit the trailing edge, it will slip over the bar easily. I plan the secure the airfoil to the roll bar using flush mount rivits. Then wrap the airfoil with the same carbon fiber vinyl car wrap I used on the interior panels. That will seal up the slit I made on the trailing edge and presto, a functional fairing that should smooth out the air going back to the wing!



    What do you think?
    Last edited by Hobby Racer; 10-26-2017 at 07:29 PM.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
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