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Thread: JDav's MK4 #9028 Build Thread

  1. #41
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Jeff,
    The cables have swage ends. How do you attach to ebrake handle without them?
    Thx,
    David.

  2. #42
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Here's a copy and paste from a post in which I decribed it:

    **********************************************
    I thought I had a few more pics but this is the best I could come up with. Hopefully my description of the process will help. Begin by determining how long you want the sheath to be. You then need to cut the ferrule, or stop, off of the end of the cable so that you can pull it out of the sheath. A cutoff wheel in a Dremel works well for making a clean, unfrayed cut. When looking at the sheath you'll see that the forward end (on the right in this pic) has a hex shape.



    Clamp the cable sheath softly in a vice and turn the end off. Cut back the outer vinyl coating to the length previously determined and strip it to expose the inner coiled steel jacket.



    Again using the Dremel with a cutoff wheel cut the jacket back to length. Now you can thread the end back on. You'll need to apply pressure while turning it.

    Next step is to feed the cable back in then mock up the cable/sheath to determine the length needed for the inner cable. Take it all back out, cut the cable to length, strip the cable's vinyl coating back to expose steel braid where the new ferrule/stop will go and crimp it on (I use "wire rope ferrules" from Lowes, HD, True Value, etc.) That's it---you now have a custom length parking brake cable!

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  3. #43
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    Nice write up

  4. #44

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    Hi Jeff,

    What vendor supplies the SN95 ebrake cables? Where did you source the rubber grommets that you stuck into the unused upper control arm ears for the cable routing?

    Joel

  5. #45
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Cables come from any parts store; walk into NAPA, Autozone or whatever and tell 'em you want cables for a '95 Mustang (they'll ask you left or right but if you're going to cut 'em anyway it doesn't matter).

    Tapered rubber stoppers are another corner hardware store item.

    This stuff really isn't hard to find fellers...have fun shopping

    Jeff

  6. #46
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff. I think of cable ends being hydraulically swaged on. Never thought something hand installed (with a hand swaging tool) would hold.
    Thx,
    David

  7. #47
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Thanks Jeff. I think of cable ends being hydraulically swaged on. Never thought something hand installed (with a hand swaging tool) would hold.
    Thx,
    David
    MPS provided e brake cables with mine (it was listed online as included, but I had to ask for them), so you may want to follow up with them since thats where you bought yours too. I havent fit them in yet to know if any alteration is needed.

  8. #48
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Thanks, I didn't know MPS included included them. I picked them up, along with a hydroboost. Delivery is TOMORROW.

  9. #49
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    E brake cable question: I assume the e brake cable mounts to #1, but does it also go through #2?
    If so, how does it fit through?
    For reference, this pic is taken from the rear looking into the cockpit

  10. #50
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    #2 is for the e-brake. #1 is not. I have the PDF version of the manual. Look on page 258, two pics. It shows the routing of the cables from bracket #2, under the 4" frame tube and to the handle (past bracket #1). If you don't like the cables running under the frame tube, "Edwardb" has a post of how he routed with a pulley over the frame rail. I'll look it up and forward to you later. My kit is due here is 30 minutes.

  11. #51
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    See pic at http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgrquqogr.jpg
    He later added a second pulley, one for each cable

  12. #52
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Per Ducky's suggestion, I flipped ahead in the manual to the parking brake handle section (I was on the rear end install where it says to install the cables, but has less description). On page 258, it says:
    87-92 Mustang cables or the FFR cables mount to the bracket up near the 2”x 3” tube.
    93-04 Mustang cables mount to the bracket near the handle.

    My brakes are 94 - 04 Cobra rear disc brakes. I know EdwardB and Scott have the Wilwoods, and used #2 with EdwardB's pulley mod. But with the Cobra brakes, should I use #1?

  13. #53
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    There are photos and text in posts #14 & 15 of my "indy 14" build thread linked below which shows the routing under the round tube with the cables in position #2.

    Jeff

  14. #54
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    My biggest struggle so far has been getting the spacers in various places. They all seem to be just a touch too big. Any tricks?

  15. #55
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Another idea for the e-brake cable issue.... Cutting the cables and adding new ends. Carlewms Post # 154 used a bracket with set screws. Lokar Performance Parts. Not sure of the cost.https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D550/ry%3D400/
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-18-2017 at 08:34 PM.

  16. #56
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Another idea for the e-brake cable issue.... Cutting the cables and adding new ends. Carlewms Post # 154 used a bracket with set screws. Lokar Performance Parts. Not sure of the cost.https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D550/ry%3D400/
    I grinded down my spacers in the shock mounts just enough for a perfect fit if that is what you are referring to.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  17. #57
    Senior Member cnutting's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    My biggest struggle so far has been getting the spacers in various places. They all seem to be just a touch too big. Any tricks?
    Same as Wareaglescott; I ground them to size and chamfered the IDs and ODs. Took a couple iterations until everything moved smoothly.
    FFR #8833 289 FIA 3-link
    1965 289, TKO600 from Forte's Parts Connection
    Body and Paint by Mike's Auto Restoration
    Picked up 3/5/2016, First start 4/22/2017, MA legal 7/11/2018
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...FIA-build-8833
    "Insanity is contagious" - Joseph Heller

  18. #58
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    What are you using to grind them down with?

  19. #59
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    What are you using to grind them down with?
    I have a bench grinder.
    Never used it before this project but I have used it tons for the build.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  20. #60
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    3 weeks in:
    I was able to get the front and rear suspension in and finished up as my back ordered shock collars finally arrived (I'm now only waiting on the power steering rack, harnesses and lug nuts). I did grind down some of the spacers to get them to fit. Instead of dropping more cash on a bench grinder, I just got a grinding disc for my dremel. It may take a little longer, but it works.


    I wasn't able to get the full 95 ft-lbs of torque on the upper caliper bolt (front wheels) - it's tight, but started to slip/strip as I put more torque on. Thoughts?

    I also ordered my hydraulic clutch, fuel pump and seat heaters from Forte. I plan to get the insulation on the front foot box and get the pedal box built and installed this week.

  21. #61
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    I'm installing my pedal box and want to make sure I'm not missing something.
    I have the wilwood pedal box, but I am not having any interference with the clutch pedal and the frame.
    I know this is a good thing, but since I see everyone notching the pedal or making a frame mod, I want to make sure I didn't do something wrong.


    Last edited by Jdav; 02-25-2017 at 12:03 PM.

  22. #62
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    I went ahead with the pedal box install and so far so good. I don't know if a tweak was made to the kit to alleviate the issue or if the stars just aligned for me.
    I also was able to torque all the caliper bolts. I had to make a trip to Home Depot for a 12mm 12 point socket plus an extension, but then it was all good.

  23. #63
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    You're good to go. Design change June 2016. Not a interference problem any more.

  24. #64
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    The e brake handle is confusing me. It seems like the clevis will hit the nut from the rear mounting bolt.
    Am I doing something wrong? Or is this not an issue?

  25. #65
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Are you using holes #1 or #2 from your picture in post 49?
    Jeff seemed to indicate in post 53 you could use #2....If that is the case then the cables come under the tube and once it is taught it keeps the cable operating fine without the interference you are concerned about.
    Unless you possibly have the handle mounted wrong. Could not really see that detail in the video.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  26. #66
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Are you using holes #1 or #2 from your picture in post 49?
    Jeff seemed to indicate in post 53 you could use #2....If that is the case then the cables come under the tube and once it is taught it keeps the cable operating fine without the interference you are concerned about.
    Unless you possibly have the handle mounted wrong. Could not really see that detail in the video.
    I am going to use hole #2 and EdwardB,s pulley mod. Maybe the angle keeps it from interfering and since the movement is forward it's ok?
    Or maybe I flip that nut to the top?

  27. #67
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Jdav, Install the rear mount bolt with the rounded head down and the nut on the top side. Reduces the interference. Also: I found the rear braided brake lines (axle to frame) at Summit. 16" long P/N 657340 $25.97 each. 18" P/N 657350 $26.97 each

  28. #68
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Almost 5 weeks in.
    I'm pausing on the e brake because I just can't find a solution that I'm happy with. I'll come back later and revisit.
    I did get all of the passenger footbox insulated and clecoed in. I'll come back and rivet shortly.
    I also installed the fuel tank, level sender and inline pump. I did Kleiner's quick jack mod to avoid dropping the tank later. I mounted the fuel filter and ran lines and also bent my hard fuel lines. I need to pick up some sealant for the connections and then I'll be able to attach to the chassis.

    I also temporarily installed my master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch. Since I'm running a coyote, I'll have 2 clutch switches and planned on following EdwardB's mount plan for the bottom switch. But since I haven't ordered the coyote control pack yet, I don't have the switch to ensure the proper dimensions and I'll have to come back to do final fitment.

    So, I guess it's been a productive week.
    I also attended Caffeine and Octane this morning. I was able to meet Ducky2009 in person and Joe Camrie had his challenge car there (along with some other amazing vehicles).






  29. #69
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    The hard brake lines were pre installed on my rear axle. There is a flexible line that connects the hard line in a t and this is the fitting on the opposite side (that I need to connect my hard lines to).
    Any idea what fitting I need for this?

  30. #70
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    In the Mustang that hose joins a fitting which is shown in it's mounting bracket in the photo below. The flared hard line attaches to the top and the square end on the flex hose banjo bolts from below. The fitting is clipped to the bracket.



    Now the not so good news...I have never found any source for either the fitting or mount other than by harvesting them from a donor car. Unless someone has found an aftermarket supplier you'll probably need to go back to MPS.

    Jeff

  31. #71
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff. Instead, could I just get a new t-fitting and attach using more standard connections?
    I am assuming that there needs to be a flexible line between the chassis hard lines and the axel hard lines, but correct me if I'm wrong

  32. #72
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Yes and yes

    Jeff

  33. #73
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Jdav,
    I have the Mustang fitting, if you want it you can have it. I also have the drop trunk for you. Call me tomorrow when you get a chance.
    David

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I was just bolting it in per the instructions - I don't have welding equipment at home and would need to send it out to weld. It seems with the clamp bolts and the connection to the flange that it shouldn't go anywhere - for a non-track car do you think that is really necessary?
    There is a bracket that will bolt on to the banana bracket where the link mounts to it and brace that down to the housing ear for a 4 link . It will take that rotational load to the pumpkin and prevent the need for any welding.
    Jeff
    jump in here with the name of that brace??
    I think it is made by VPM
    DB
    Last edited by myjones; 03-11-2017 at 10:53 PM.

  35. #75
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    6 weeks in.
    I routed and attached my fuel lines and most of my brake lines. I still need to make the connection to the rear axel.
    I also got my new lokar e brake lines in, but need to modify the handle lever to remove interference with the mounting bracket.
    Riveted in the passenger aluminum and have it all insulated.

    I received my final back ordered parts from FFR - power steering rack and lug nuts, however, the lines on the rack were kinked so they are sending a replacement.

    I'm out of town next week for work, so I won't make much progress.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  36. #76
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    7 weeks in
    I was out of town most of the week, so I really only worked on the car on Saturday and Sunday.
    I received my replacement steering rack so I got that installed. I added the offset bushings from breeze - I'm not sure how much they help and I couldn't really get much adjustment out of them.

    I also fabricated a new e brake lever like Carlewms did. I tested it and still need to cut a bit off the end and drill my mounting hole, but I'm happy with it. It's the first piece I've fabricated so while it's not perfect, I'm proud.


    I stopped by Ducky2009's house. He was nice enough to make up a drop trunk kit and coyote hydraulic clutch bottom switch mount for me. As many have said before, the guys who are on this adventure together really are so nice and giving of time, skills and expertise.
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  37. #77
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    I'm having difficulty tightening the lock nut on one of my tie rods. It threads on about an 1/8th of an inch an then the entire stud rotates instead of just the nut. Any ideas ?
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

  38. #78
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I'm having difficulty tightening the lock nut on one of my tie rods. It threads on about an 1/8th of an inch an then the entire stud rotates instead of just the nut. Any ideas ?
    Fine vs coarse thread??
    You sure it is the correct nut?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  39. #79
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdav View Post
    I'm having difficulty tightening the lock nut on one of my tie rods. It threads on about an 1/8th of an inch an then the entire stud rotates instead of just the nut. Any ideas ?
    Give it a good whack or two to seat the tapered stud into the steering arm and that should provide enough resistance to keep it from spinning.

    Jeff

  40. #80
    Senior Member Jdav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Fine vs coarse thread??
    You sure it is the correct nut?
    It's possible I mixed up my nuts. It looks to be a 3/4 in coarse thread nylon lock nut. Is that what it should be?
    MK4 #9028 - Coyote - TKO600
    Delivery: 1/30/17 First Start: 7/23/17 Legal: 10/5/17 Graduated: 10/15/18
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...8-Build-Thread

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