Trimming Rear Fenders

[Murph]

I am hoping someone has a technique for trimming the rear fenders so they are equal on both sides. My drivers side fender is cut and looks good. Now, what's the best method for getting the other side to look the same? I tried taping thin poster board to the left side, thinking I could trim it to size then reverse it for the opposite side. The stuff I'm using does not follow the fender curves well enough to allow an exact copy of that fender. I'm probably missing a simple solution, but then I've never done any of this before. Would appreciate any help you can offer.

[Brave Salmon]

Murph,
I found this whole fender trimming process to be about as fouled up as fitting the hood. I tried all the standard template tricks using several different materials. We found we could not use templates because the left and right sides are not true mirror images. I ended up focusing on one side rear and getting that trim line where I wanted it using fine line tape to lay it out. Once happy with that one, I got my eagle eyed wife out there to eyball the other side. Had her sit back about 20 feet while I worked the trim line in tape. Admittedly, it took some patience but she nailed it after 30 minutes or so. Once the rear of the rears were symitrical, we repeated on the front of the rears and so on. I wish there was a simpler way to do this but as you can see from the lack of responses to your question, there isn't. Good luck..

[Brave Salmon]

Here is picture of the layout I went with prior to cutting the rears.. I tried to emulate the yellow cars fenders from the manual for good coverage as well as leaving as much structure as possible for longevity. Again, good luck1487184513644-107663073.jpg1487184558115-991720688.jpg

[NAZ]

Tom, that looks great and using that pin stripe tape is probably the best method to use. It's aggravating that the fiberglass is so far off on these cars. Did the tape stay put while you trimmed it or do you need to run a magic marker along the edge of the tape for a secure line to follow?

[Brave Salmon]

Have not yet trimmed it. Too chicken! Im debating trying to save lower lip and bond it in place on top of cut edges so really giving it extra thought.. i'll post a pic when done

[Murph]

Thanks for your response. I agree there does not seem to be a good way to trim the fenders. I ended up bolting on the fenders to the car. I then used 1/4" pin strip to lay out the design I liked. I used my dremel tool with a cut0ff disk to trim the excess. Once done I taped reverse side poster board to the left fender, the inside edge placed where the fender and body meet and duplicated the shape with pin strip. I cut to the inside of the pin stripping on this cut. The finished product looks good and I have compared the fit by measuring both sides at the same relative location. The right side rear did flare lower to the body then the left, but I corrected that with my sander. Good luck with yours.

[erlihemi]

As far as the actual physical cutting goes I have used Dremel's, roto zip, and a small jig saw with a ceramic abrasive blade for the fine kerf detail cutting close to final trim. I am pretty happy with a small corded jig saw or reciprocating air saw for the tight places that I want to go slow on. Roto zips don't last (but work well for tight curves), and the dremels are making too much fine dust. For the long flat areas I find a small belt sander better than a rotary disc and less likely to require as much had forming.

As for the symmetry, My mold lines were over an inch different and I am disappointed that asymmetry was carried over to the steel body. I can only suggest standing back 20 feet and eyeballing it, not painting any pinstripes or high lights that amplify the issue. Of course I am cheating and using different glass on the front. If it looks bad Ill rattle can it to look like rust and satin clear it...

[DarthTedious]

erlihemi,

Ill have to try the ceramic abrasive blade for my jigsaw since I have been chewing through other blade types and haven't found a great solution yet.

[NAZ]

I've done a lot of trimming on my body to make it fit my roll cage and my go to tool is a pneumatic Ingersoll Rand body saw with fine tooth blades. When I cut the dash from the body to make it removable it had to be a perfect cut. There was no room to sand out any imperfections as the parting line had to mate the two sections together without a gap. This saw worked great.

[myjones]

When I cut the dash from the body to make it removable it had to be a perfect cut. There was no room to sand out any imperfections as the parting line had to mate the two sections together without a gap.

Naz
I was impressed with that part of your build, it solves a lot of problems at one time. Well done
Dale

[NAZ]

Thanks Dale. Wish FFR would have made that an option. Think how much easier it would be to service the A/C and other items stuffed under the dash.